-Hi. I'm Rick Steves,

back with more of the best of Europe.

This time, we're gettin' to know the locals,

and that includes the seagulls.

We're exploring the islands of Scotland.

Thanks for joining us.

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Scotland's islands may be on the distant fringes of Scotland,

but those who venture here are richly rewarded.

As if fortified by the powerful sea,

these fabled isles are protectors of tradition --

each offering dramatic landscapes,

a rich heritage, and a warm welcome.

While Scotland has countless islands,

we'll visit what I consider the most rewarding:

Iona, with its tranquility and ancient Christian heritage;

Skye, with its remote and rugged landscapes;

and Orkney, with its prehistoric wonders

and fascinating World War II history.

The United Kingdom includes England, Wales,

Northern Ireland, and Scotland.

Scotland is ringed on the west by the Hebrides Islands.

We'll venture from Oban to Iona and Staffa;

then, Skye;

and then, in the far north,

sail to the Orkney Islands.

Oban's been the unofficial capital of Scotland's West Coast

ever since the train arrived back in 1880.

The hub of the local ferry system,

this low-key resort is nicknamed "the Gateway to the isles."

Oban's harborfront is lined with Victorian facades

recalling the early arrival of tourists

just over a century ago.

Before then, its economy was dominated by fishing.

Even today, a tiny fleet stays busy.

When the rain clears, sun-starved Scots

enjoy their esplanade and the beach.

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The townscape is dominated by its busy ferry port.

The port has long been a lifeline

to the Hebrides Islands.

Today, it's a popular springboard

for island adventurers.

The best day out from Oban is the three-island tour

and we've caught the early ferry on our way

to Mull, Iona, and Staffa.

Right away, we're immersed in grand island views.

Be on deck to make the most of the experience.

After an hour, you approach the isle of Mull.

Everything is coordinated and a bus is standing by,

ready to take us across the island.

Enjoying the drive, you're struck

by the pristine scenery, the sparse population,

and how Mull feels hardly touched by civilization.

On the far west of Mull,

another ferry makes the short crossing to the isle of Iona.

Iona is tiny, but with a big history.

It's just one village, 3 miles long,

150 people, almost no cars.

[ Baaing ]

It's famous as the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland.

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The year was 563.

A nobleman, who became Saint Columba,

fought a battle over in Ireland.

He won, but was so sickened by the bloodshed

that he left his homeland, vowing never to return.

According to legend, this was the first piece of land

he came to out of sight from Ireland.

He stopped here and built a church,

which eventually became this abbey.

Iona became a center of Celtic Christianity.

[ Tender tune plays ] From here, Saint Columba's monks

spread the gospel throughout Scotland.

This remote, little island was a center of art and learning

back when most of Europe was almost illiterate,

mired in relative darkness.

The exquisitely illustrated Book of Kells --

this is a copy on display in Dublin --

is perhaps the finest piece of art

from Europe's early Middle Ages.

Monks wrote it here, on Iona, in the 8th century.

Over the next centuries,

Columba's monastic community grew

in religious importance.

The abbey became the burial place for chiefs and kings.

According to legend, dozens of ancient kings,

Scottish, Irish, and even Scandinavian, rest here.

[ Outro plays ] [ Gulls squawking ]

After many generations, in about the year 800,

Viking raiders were terrorizing coastal communities

all across western Europe, including Iona.

After one terrible massacre,

68 monks were killed right here on this beach.

The survivors packed up their treasures,

including the precious Book of Kells,

and returned to Ireland.

Today, a thoughtful calm

pervades Scotland's holiest of islands.

After centuries of pillaging,

little remains of the original abbey,

but if you're interested in tranquility

and a bit of meditative peace,

Iona is a fine place for a break from your busy itinerary.

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Next, a fastboat takes us to our third island of the day,

Staffa -- famous for its bird life

and striking volcanic rock formations.

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Our captain gives us a dramatic sneak preview

of the fabled Fingal's Cave.

He then drops us off for time to explore.

Walking across the uninhabited island,

we head for the hidden nests of a colony of Atlantic puffins.

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We wait patiently and quietly, observing the hardworking adults

bringing home a fishy breakfast for their chicks.

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Hiking along the base of the cliffs,

using Staffa's distinctive six-sided basalt columns

as stepping stones, we reach Fingal's Cave.

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Peering into the geological darkness,

so surrounded by nature, I savor the moment.

Enjoying the interplay of the sea and the rocks,

I think of the generations of romantics

who've stood right here and been inspired.

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[ Jaunty tune plays ] After enjoying

our three-island day, we're driving farther north.

The drive's scenic, the roads are good,

and the traffic's light.

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Ferries connect these islands

with Scottish government-subsidized fares,

keeping island-hopping inexpensive.

Next up, the rugged Isle of Skye.

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Offering some of Scotland's best scenery,

the Isle of Skye is understandably popular.

Narrow, twisty roads wind around Skye,

in the shadows of craggy, bald mountains,

and the coastline is ruffled with peninsulas;

and sea lochs, or saltwater inlets.

Skye, while Scotland's second-biggest island,

about a two-hour drive from south to north,

has only 13,000 residents.

And it's been that way since the Highland Clearances

[ Baaing ] back in the 1800s.

That's when wealthy landlords decided sheep

were better for their bottom line than people.

Landless peasants were driven out and, to this day,

the island's population is half what it used to be.

While plenty of tour buses cover Skye,

it's a great place to have your own wheels.

The island is dotted with scenic roadside attractions.

The Sligachan Bridge offers a classic Skye view

and a good reminder to stop the car and get out.

The Cuillin mountains tower high above

and above the bridge looms the cone-shaped Glamaig Hill.

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Around here, people really know how to have fun with nature.

As a matter of fact, every summer, there's a race,

from the bridge to the top of that mountain and back.

Last year's winner? 44 minutes.

[ Flute plays haunting tune ] If you know where to look,

the island is strewn with the scant remains

of past civilizations.

Just a short hike from a handy parking lot

is Skye's best-preserved Iron Age fort:

Dun Beag.

To get the most out of our Isle of Skye road trip,

I'm joined by my friend and fellow