Name: How To Make Steampunk Shoulder Armor. EVA Foam Armor Templates for Steampunk Costume Ideas
Uploaded: 2019-05-18T06:34:42.000Z
Duration: 8 min 40 s
Description: Thousands of YouTube videos with English-Chinese subtitles! Now you can learn to understand native speakers, expand your vocabulary, and improve your pronunciation...

The second conditional

Shoulders. If we didn't have them how
would we say (shoulder shrug).

Adverbs of degree

You wouldn't even think to
leave the house without a helmet on but

have you ever stopped to consider the
second most vulnerable body part from

random things falling from the sky?
That's right, your shoulders.

Shoulder armor may not protect from falling lawn darts.

Hey everyone today I'm going to show you how
to make a steampunk mechanical shoulder...armor.

I just wanted to show you how cool
it looks with the steampunk mechanical

arm pattern which is available
separately. I'll put links in the

description below and in the upper right
hand corner but...man, that looks really

cool together, so just some inspiration.
Anyways let's make shoulder armor.

Start by printing out the pattern, making sure the
scale is set to actual size. You can

verify that everything is perfect by
measuring the print guides. Some of the

pattern pieces are larger than a normal
sheet of paper, so you're gonna have to

tape them together. I like to use my
window because it makes it easy to see

through the paper and see the alignment
markings. I also get to see the great

outdoors. Now grab some scissors and
start cutting out those pattern pieces,

cutting as close to the black line as
possible without removing it. I find it a

lot easier to cut out the inside parts
of pieces with a knife rather than

scissors. You should end up with a nice
stack of pieces. Once your pattern is cut

out, get out your foam. If your foam
keeps rolling up on you, a pair of ankle

weights can be a great solution to that
problem. Maybe you have a really fit

friend you could borrow some from.
Thanks fit friend.

Carefully trace your armor pattern onto the
foam, making sure to mark the alignment

points. Extend them to the inside of the
pattern so they still exist when you cut

out your foam. Some pattern pieces get
traced more than one time and piece

number three gets flipped for its second
time. Mark the dotted lines on the main

pieces. Those will be indentations.
Mark the center of all the places you

need to punch a hole. Just remember,
although you cut two piece number 6s, only one of

them gets the holes. Now we can carefully
cut out the pieces we just drew on our

six millimeter foam. Remember, whenever
you're using a very sharp knife be

careful where your fingers are so you
don't chop them off. When you cut out the

circle and the other rectangularish-sort-of-piece 
from piece number one, just

leave them in their place cuz you're
gonna need them there later.

That's our six millimeter foam cut out.
Now let's do the two millimeter foam.

This is a great time to use up some
scraps. If your pen runs out of ink while

you're tracing and it frustrates you so
much that you want to throw it away,

maybe just...don't. Instead, put it in your
drawer for safekeeping because we're

gonna use it later. One thing to think
about before cutting out all these fancy

pieces, is you might want to skip ahead
and just make the main shoulder first to

make sure it fits. You'll also want to
save the 9 millimeter disks we're

cutting out right here cuz we'll use
them later. While we're punching things out

let's take our six millimeter punch and
punch the holes on one of our piece

number sixes. Now we can plug in our glue
gun and adjust the temperature so it's

not too hot and won't burn our hands off
as well as being quicker to cool so we

can make our project faster. When using
hot glue it's best to glue smaller

sections at a time so the glue doesn't
cool before you have everything lined up.

As you can see I've started by gluing
the two piece sixes together. Next comes

a technique I like to call "cutting out
and putting back in, but just not putting

all the way back in." So we'll take the
two pieces we cut out from number one

and glue them back where they came from,
the difference being we're not gonna

push them all the way back in. This is a
handy trick when you're working with

thicker foam and want to add some more
dimensionality. It seems to work best if

you can glue small sections at a time.
That way it's easier to keep the recess

equal all the way around. Now glue the
dart on piece number two, gluing about

five centimeters at a time. Hold the
edges together until the glue cools

while pressing down against a table. If
you're new to using hot glue and foam I

have a video with tips on how to get
nice smooth seams

and the link will be in the top right
corner. Glue piece one and two together,

lining up alignment points E, F and G. It's
a good idea to make the indentations

along the lines that we drew before this
thing goes 3-D, so let's do that right now.

A plastic gift card works great for this
because it's about the right width and

the corners are nicely rounded. Pretty
simple technique with this, just keep on

rubbing until you've got nice lines. Glue
the sides together at alignment mark A.

My foam wasn't cooperating and wanted
to bend the wrong way so I used a hair

dryer to heat it up and shape it a
little. Now piece 6 (the neck guard) gets glued

so the center of it lines up with the
seam along the top of the shoulder. It's

important to note as seen here that it
gets glued beside pieces one and two

rather than on top of them.
This piece is important because it also

helps the other piece of foam stay
curved going over the shoulder. Now is a

good time to check and make sure this is
gonna fit over your super muscular

physique before continuing on the rest
of the project.

Use a bit of sandpaper to rough up the foam along the
bottom edge of the torso piece and then

glue in piece number four, overlapping on
that inside edge. You want to end up with

about six centimeters of piece number
four sticking out the bottom. With that

done we can move on to the pauldron.
We'll start by gluing the darts on piece

3 and 3A. You want to make sure
that the ends of the dart line up

properly and you'll probably have to
pull a little bit on the top part to

make that happen. If you haven't already,
make sure you punch the four millimeter

holes for the hinged rivet. Glue the two
halves of the pauldron together along

the center line which will give you an
inside-out pauldron which you can then

turn inside out from being inside out.
Now piece five can get attacked by a

gift card and a hole punch. Grab some
webbing and a D-ring. I happened to find

exactly what I needed in a set of head
weights...on my head.

Make a mark seven centimeters in from
the edge of the shoulder and the width

of your webbing, and cut a slot along
that line. Watch out that your fingers

aren't underneath your knife blade. That
would be bad. Cut a piece of webbing 11

centimeters long. Sand around the center
seam on the pauldron, glue the webbing to

itself with the D-ring in the center and
then glue the webbing and D-ring down to

the pauldron. So now, when you want to put
it together, you can take a second piece

of webbing, put it through the D-ring and
then feed it through that slot you made and

that'll hold the pieces together and yet
still allow motion. Now cut five strips

of 2 millimeter foam that's 12
millimeters wide by 76 centimeters long.

If you don't have foam that long you can
cut more strips that are shorter. Now

we're gonna use those strips to make a
rim that goes all the way around the

outside edge of all the pieces. The way I
found worked best was to leave the strip