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  • The slave trade with the New World was started not long after the Discovery of America.

  • For more than three centuries, slave-ships continued with their sinister voyages loaded with their dreadful human cargo.

  • Millions of people were captured in Africa and sold in America.

  • By the end of the 18th Century, in Haiti alone, there was a population of more than 2,900,000 African slaves.

  • After becoming a French possession in 1697,

  • Haiti soon became America's biggest producer of sugar

  • and also one of the places with the highest number of slaves in the world.

  • Now, some of the old sugar plantations have been converted into museums

  • with enormous stills for distilling the rum, presses where the juice of the sugar cane was extracted

  • and raised tanks where the fruits of slave labour were kept.

  • Slave labour carried out under the constant cracking of the whip.

  • The living conditions of the Africans confined in these yards were atrocious.

  • After suffering the hardships of a voyage, where normally 20% of the slaves died,

  • they arrived at the auctions exhausted and ill.

  • Families were separated and the individual members were sold to different settlers.

  • Parents and children would never meet again.

  • The overseers meted out severe punishments to those who did not work flat out

  • and the hunters of fugitive slaves subjected their prisoners to exemplary treatment which often resulted in death.

  • Many succumbed to the wounds caused by heavy shackles,

  • or dehydrated in the sun whilst chained to these sinister crosses.

  • Cape Haitien was the point where the slavers would unload their ebony merchandise,

  • as they called their foul-smelling load of dying slaves that survived the voyage

  • Today it is one of the most beautiful colonial cities of Haiti.

  • Its houses speak loudly of the opulent past of the French settlers who managed the sugar plantations.

  • By the end of the 18th Century the black population had reached about 3 million

  • and there were ever-increasing problems controlling them.

  • The blacks that escaped, known as "browns", hid in the mountains and organised themselves in very large rebel groups.

  • The rumours about the French Revolution gave new strength to the rebels.

  • Boukman, the leader of the browns, organised a great secret ceremony in BOIS CAIMAN

  • That night on 14th August 1791, a black pig was sacrificed and all those present drank its blood.

  • The revolution of the slaves had begun.

  • The message was very clear: cut off heads, burn houses and destroy plantations.

  • In a few days more than a thousand whites were killed.

  • The terrified white settlers started the legend that the blacks had made a pact with the devil that night in BOIS CAIMAN.

  • Many slaves were captured and executed.

  • The "brown" Makandal was burnt alive, so becoming a legendary martyr

  • who is still called on in voodoo ceremonies today.

  • Toussaint Louverture became the leader of the blacks and started up a rebellion that lasted for 10 years,

  • until on the 1st January 1804, Haiti proclaimed its independence,

  • so becoming the first black republic in the New World.

  • Two years later, General Henry Christophe proclaimed himself King and constructed the Citadell in the North,

  • while a mulatto, Petion, took control of the South.

  • The construction of this enormous fortress built to defend them from the French, who never came back, took 14 years.

  • Each stone had to be transported by hand up to a site that was 980 metres above sea level.

  • 20,000 people died during its construction.

  • The story goes that Christophe ordered that those who refused to work should be impaled against the enormous walls of the citadel.

  • It could house up to 10,000 people and its geographical situation made it virtually impregnable.

  • King Christophe built up an arsenal of more than 250,000 cannon balls

  • for the various types of cannons that he had installed in hundreds of embrasures.

  • The Citadell, the largest fortress in the Caribbean,

  • was left anchored in the mountains as a testimony to the struggle of the Haitian people for their independence.

  • The landscape of the North contrasts with the idea that one may have of Haiti as an arid land.

  • In this region where King Christophe seems still to reign, the forests are luxuriant and leafy and full of life.

  • Christophe ordered the Palace of Sans Souci to be built near the Citadell, in the style of Frederick II of Prussia.

  • In 1820, at the foot of the Palace stairs, near the church,

  • the eccentric king ended his own life by shooting himself with a golden bullet fired from his silver revolver.

  • He had repressed his subjects to such a degree, that they rose up against him and forced him to commit suicide.

  • A simple monument brings him together with the other Fathers of the Nation at the top of a hill near Cape Haitien.

  • The voodoo phenomenon was born during this period of struggle

  • in spite of the colonial authorities and the repression of the Church.

  • The African Gods that travelled in the slaves´ minds had intermingled with the Catholic doctrine of the settlers.

  • A new religion had been born.

  • With the flags that represented the different tribes of their ancestors,

  • the lakús or voodoo monasteries are spread over all the country.

  • They are normally located in places where the slaves that had run away from the plantations

  • hid to pray.

  • Voodoo is a religion that is very closely linked with nature

  • and many of its deities dwell in rivers, valleys and mountains.

  • There are many natural settings which are real sanctuaries.

  • The faithful retreat to these places to meditate and meet their luas, or family spirits,

  • and the principle forces of the Universe.

  • These are spiritual observatories that enable them to communicate with the Great Beyond.

  • Voodoo determines and presides over Haitian society,

  • it is always present in a world where everything that happens,

  • be it good or bad, is attributed to the direct intervention of the spirits.

  • Limonat beach is a place of pilgrimage.

  • Preachers from the most distant parts of the country come here to perform Guiné ceremonies

  • and beseech the favour of Erzuli,

  • mother Earth, the Goddess of Love, who is identified in syncretism with the Virgin Mary.

  • In the shade of the sacred trees, families take turns to perform their ceremonies.

  • They mainly offer food and rum and wait for Erzuli to appear, for her to take possession of someone's body.

  • In this case, the woman with the red scarf.

  • Erzuli likes to flirt, and seduces people without distinguishing between sexes.

  • She may enter the body of a man or of a woman,

  • but everybody will immediately recognise her because of her suggestive movements.

  • Each preacher recognises different beings in this possession.

  • Its syncretic translation would be the Virgin of High Grace,

  • the Black Virgin or the Virgin of Monte Carmelo and sometimes St Philomena,

  • identified in voodoo with a siren who comes out of the sea or of fresh water.

  • Other participants also go into deep trances.

  • People help them and respect them, as in these moments their souls are outside their bodies.

  • The luas or spirits have taken over their bodies in order to express their wishes.

  • During these possessions, there are frequent displays of the protection conferred on them by the influence of the deity that dwells inside them.

  • Each lua has different colours, so different coloured scarves are used to call them.

  • White kaolin powder is also used to attract certain deities and to identify them.

  • Erzuli has just recognised one of her followers by the rings that adorn his hands.

  • These are wedding rings that show that the man has married her.

  • Each person may marry his protective lua.

  • They gather their relations and witnesses together and go to the OUNFO or voodoo temple,

  • where a mystic wedding is held.

  • From this moment on, the earthly spouse will have to abstain from sexual intercourse on certain days specified by his lua.

  • For example, Erzuli prescribes Tuesdays and Thursdays,

  • and on these days she may come before her servants in her dreams.

  • Here in Limonat voodoo lives alongside the Church.

  • The devotees alternate their religious customs without any problems.

  • From the olden days, when the settlers prohibited their African religious services,

  • the slaves were forced to praise their Gods whilst kneeling before a Catholic icon.

  • In this way syncretism arose and the majority of the lua have their corresponding Christian deity or saint.

  • Flags announce that this is a sacred place, a room where spirits dwell.

  • This is Josephine's house.

  • Her lua friend revealed to her in a dream,

  • how she should paint her yard in order to favour an encounter with the spirits that live in these trees.

  • Voodoo philosophy is very closely linked to nature, and therefore has an ecological bent.

  • Nobody dares to cut down trees as these are normally inhabited by spirits,

  • and especially LOKO, the protector of the woods.

  • Lakús, small villages that have arisen around a temple, can be found throughout the country.

  • A great sacred mapú, as they call the ceibas, presides over the lakú of the KONGO.

  • The power of the ceibas comes from the belief that they can talk to the Gods.

  • Unfortunately, most of them were cut down by the French during their struggle against the slaves' revolt.

  • The lakús are self-sufficient population cells.

  • Work is communal as is the product obtained from this work.

  • Each lakú is run by a HOUNGAN, or voodoo priest, who is called MAMBO,

  • in the case of a woman, and he or she is assisted by a Council of Elders.

  • Its inhabitants normally have the same African roots: Congo, Dahomey, Mandingo, Ewé etc..

  • There is a peristyle inside the temple which is dominated by the POTO MITAN,

  • the pillar by which the forces that have been invoked may descend.

  • The altar reflects once again the syncretism of this religion,

  • which was born in times of war, but now keeps its machetes buried as a sign of peace.

  • The HOUNGAN carries out a cleansing operation that also serves as a protection against spells,

  • and he shows us the house of SHANGO, the lua of thunder and catastrophes, equivalent to St. Barbara.

  • This other lakú is Dahomey. Its architecture takes us to another African region

  • from which the Yoruba deities, the OREXAS, departed.

  • The voodoo religion acts as a bonding force for the people.

  • It joins and fits together the range of different customs of the different ethnic groups

  • from which the slaves that populated Haiti came.

  • It helps to prop up a society that owes its existence to this religion.

  • Other sacred places include the lagoons where the spirits that clean, heal and bring luck to believers live.

  • In Plaine-du-Nord, the people submerge themselves in the mud and make their offerings of rum.

  • Wearing the large straw hat that characterises the lua SAKA,

  • Filo Pascal, a well-known journalist and veteran of the struggle for freedom of his people against the previous regime,

  • acts as a guide for us.

  • Thanks to him, we were able to discover the real voodoo

  • and avoid the countless obstacles placed in our way by the Mafia that limits and sells access to this religion to foreigners.

  • A great deal of ceremonies are performed in cemeteries among the dead.

  • The people are not afraid of these places, and it is commonplace,

  • and considered to be a great honour for someone to sleep on his father's grave.

  • The tomb of Baron Sammedi, the King of the Dead, can be found in all cemeteries,

  • although in some it can only be identified by the people from the village,

  • to stop outsiders using the cemetery for their own voodoo acts.

  • Normally, it can be recognised by its large cross

  • and where the first burial was made.

  • Tonight, we are witnesses to an "expedition" made by a HOUNGAN from Artibonito,

  • the region of Haiti with the strongest magic.

  • At the foot of the cross, the HOUNGAN smokes a piece of paper over some candles

  • so that the lua Great Way allows the passage to reach Baron Sammedi.

  • Later KAFU, who controls the cross-roads between the earthly world and the great beyond,

  • will have to give his permission

  • A fire is prepared with pine sticks and pieces of paper with someone's name written on it,

  • to prevent somebody leave in another person

  • They also use special powders made by the HOUNGAN.

  • In voodoo these powders are very important.

  • Each HOUNGAN has his own mixtures, which can go from healing powders to zombie powder.

  • Rum and gas-oil are used to warm the spirits, which normally live in water and are always cold.

  • The heat attracts them and the HOUNGAN is mounted by Baron Sammedi who is equivalent to St Expeditus,

  • which is why the ceremony is called an expedition.

  • Nobody can refuse to return his violent greeting that transmits energy from the other world.

  • This ceremony is performed so that the Baron may deliver justice

  • in a dispute and carry out the sentence on the guilty party.

  • The red and black dolls represent the protagonists, men and women, of the lawsuit that is presented.

  • When this powerful HOUNGAN is possessed, he has the power to eat glass.

  • His lua demands it of him.

  • Baron Sammedi reigns over all the GUEDE, the spirits of the dead.

  • When he mounts someone he acts like a joker and uses obscene language.

  • This is the lua of sexuality and he falls in love with women;

  • his dance imitates the coital act and he always smokes a lot.

  • Once his work is finished, the Baron lies back on his tomb and prepares to leave the body that he has possessed.

  • The HOUNGAN is shocked when the Baron leaves: he does not know how he got there,

  • he can remember nothing.

  • In Berre an old lady has died and a funeral party has been announced which will last all night.

  • With songs, the young people try to cheer up her son,

  • who sits at a small table looking at photos of his dead mother.

  • The whole village attends the party.

  • It is a social duty to attend the dead from the moment that death occurs.

  • At the back of the house, the women make coffee

  • so that the people can make it through the night and the party may be successful.

  • They have a totally different view of death from the Christians.

  • The cycle is renewed and death is the end of the journey through life.

  • Now, the soul of the deceased will walk towards the past to meet up with his ancestors.

  • The next day, the people attend the burial dressed up in their finest clothes.

  • Scenes of grief continue.

  • It is necessary to shout a lot so that the dead person knows that he is dead.

  • The soul does not leave the body immediately, instead it remains at his side,

  • and it is necessary to convince it to go off with the GHEDE,

  • otherwise, it could disturb the living.

  • In some places, they turn the coffin over many times,

  • so that the dead person gets lost and cannot find his way home.

  • In the centre of Port-au-Prince, the capital of Haiti, we find the Presidential Palace,

  • where the bloody dictators, François Duvalier

  • Papa Doc and his son Baby Doc lived.

  • Opposite the front of the palace is the statue of the slave,

  • Toussaint Louverture, who led the fight against the French.

  • On the other side, the figure of a slave, ringing a lambi,

  • symbol of the fall of colonial power and the fight against the oppression of slavery.

  • 0:00:26:28.14

  • Haiti is the gallery of art Naif.

  • The church of the Trinity is the first that opened its doors to this type of art work.

  • The art of a people who feel the need to express themselves by painting in this way.

  • Haiti is the country of colour.

  • The people paint their houses, their streets

  • and their collectively-owned cars, the famous TAP-TAPs.

  • The Haitian people have suffered countless attacks and their freedom has been repressed on many occasions.

  • Perhaps the most tragic example, because it was so recent,

  • was that carried out by the DUVALIER dictators and their reigns of terror sustained

  • by witchcraft and black magic.

  • They were surrounded by their troops, the TOM-TOM MACOUTES,

  • most of whom were BOKO, wizards that work on the dark side of voodoo:

  • the "DÉ MÉ", which means "with both hands".

  • This practice is the opposite of GUINÉ, in which the HOUNGAN only uses his right hand.

  • The Catholic Church does not like to coexist with voodoo,

  • while the voodooists, on the contrary, have no trouble coexisting with the Church.

  • On one side of the Cathedral,

  • people can be found praying and asking for help

  • before a figure of Christ that occupies an important place in their beliefs.

  • Rituals are celebrated daily in the cemeteries of Port-au-Prince.

  • The dead must be well attended to, otherwise they will bother you instead of helping you.

  • We attend a mass with Filo Pascal that is being held for a dead relative before Baron Sammedi.

  • He is offered food and rum, which at the end will be shared out among the poor people

  • who come to the cemeteries because of this.

  • A year and a day after the death, the family members must release the soul of the deceased,

  • which has been living up until now in the water.

  • They must carry out a very expensive ceremony in which an ox is sacrificed.

  • If they delay it for a long time, the deceased may rise up against them.

  • In the traditional voodoo law, the maximum penalty is zombification and not death.

  • The HOUNGANS that have passed sentence, will appoint an executioner

  • who will blow the zombie powder in such a way that the criminal will inhale it without realising.

  • Shortly afterwards, he will die, without anyone knowing why

  • and he will be buried.

  • Some time later he will be exhumed, an antidote will be applied

  • and they will steal his soul.

  • He will obey the HOUNGANS and will work for the rest of his life for them.

  • In fact, they reduce him to a cataleptic state produced by Tetrodotoxin,

  • the main ingredient of the zombie powder.

  • His brain does not receive a sufficient supply of blood,

  • which combined with the shock of being buried alive,

  • causes irreversible damage to his mental faculties.

  • But those who work the "DÉ MÉ" may also use these sinister techniques for revenge.

  • For this reason, there are some people who poison their dead before burying them,

  • because they could have been victims of a Boko and be turned into zombies.

  • The most important secret societies were born a long time ago

  • and were the real spiritual support for the uprising of the slaves.

  • Their ceremonies, like this one of bossu

  • are more violent because they call upon the lua petro originally from Haiti.

  • The voodooists inhale some powder made up by the HOUNGANS which stimulate the senses

  • and keep them awake all night long.

  • From this moment on the atmosphere gets hotter and hotter until a climax

  • is reached where almost everyone suffers severe trances.

  • the lua petro have arrived.

  • The slave ships also arrived in Cuba, thereby creating another large African population.

  • Here the rebel slaves were called "cimarrones" and they also had to win their freedom.

  • Their dominant beliefs were Yoruba,

  • which when syncretised created what is known today as santeria or "Regla de Ocha".

  • A religion, which to a greater or lesser degree, is practised by most of the population.

  • All the rituals of the Regla de Ocha

  • start with the smoking of herbs such as basil or siempre viva (everlasting flower).

  • Apart from the purification of the participants,

  • the spirits of plants, animals and men must always be present in Regla de Ocha

  • They wear white and worship the same deities as in the Haitian voodoo.

  • Olga holds the chicken which they are going to sacrifice to EXU.

  • The babalawo that she went to see, consulted the oracle to IFA

  • and he told her what to do.

  • She ran the risk of being deceived by a man.

  • The man officiating the ceremony throws the coconuts.

  • Depending on whether they fall face up or face down,

  • he will know if ECHU, who controls creation and is very close to OLOFI,

  • the Regla de Ocha God, allows the sacrifice.

  • Later, he gets the whole congregation to take part.

  • In this way, although it is he who carries out the sacrifice,

  • it will be everyone's responsibility.

  • The flowing of body fluids substitutes human life.

  • Life is given in order to preserve life and establish a unifying link with the supernatural order.

  • On these altars we can see the African Gods: OKUN, the warrior.

  • SANGO the OREXA of thunder and lightning,

  • or St. Barbara in syncretism.

  • The God of ancestors.

  • ORULA, intermediary of OLOFI, the sun,

  • and above this, OBATAIA, the Lord of the minds,

  • equivalent to Our Lady of Mercy.

  • And lastly St Lazarus, the saint of epidemics and diseases.

  • Before consulting the IFA, the oracle on which all Regla de Ocha revolves,

  • they call upon ORULA, that comes from the sun.

  • Here the ceremonies are held in houses; with the lack of houses that exists in Cuba,

  • a temple would be a luxury.

  • They drink the Rara-Ekuo, a soft drink made from corn

  • which protects them from the heat which comes down from heaven through the spirit ORULA.

  • Using a red cloth and a crate, the great spirit is trapped while the consultation is taking place.

  • The Yoruba IFA uses a very complicated prophecy technique.

  • More than a thousand deities may appear in the form of mathematical combinations.

  • The babalawo must interpret them correctly and identify the final answer to the consultation,

  • which will be the decision and order of ORULA.

  • The person officiating the ceremony shakes the seeds and marks one or two lines of different length,

  • depending on the number of seeds that are left in his left hand.

  • When ORULA appears all get down on their knees.

  • Now the Oracle can be consulted.

  • Jacinto is a member of the AWUAKA secret society

  • and today is undergoing an initiation ceremony in the "Palo de Monte",

  • Cuban black magic.

  • The essential difference between Regla de Ocha and El Palo,

  • is that here they work with the dead instead of with the saints.

  • This religion is based on the prenda mayombe,

  • the pots were they catch the dead in order to use them in rituals.

  • If the offering has crosses, it is to do good, if it does not have any, it is for black magic.

  • It will be covered with black cloths and will be called prenda judía (Jewish offering).

  • They use sticks from different woods, stones, human bones, tools, coconuts

  • and a dead man's skull.

  • Once they have finished preparing the prenda, Jacinto is led to the altar.

  • The songs announce the action they are performing.

  • They are clear and repetitive in order to guide the prenda

  • and so guarantee that the ceremony is successful.

  • Jacinto is subjected to arduous tests.

  • With his eyes blindfolded and without knowing which new trial he will be forced to undergo,

  • he starts to get upset.

  • No prospective member of the society

  • knows in advance what will happen in the initiation ceremony.

  • They only know that it is hard

  • and that not all of them can endure it till the end.

  • He soon feels faint. His knees are stiff and tremble with excitement.

  • He needs a rest, the uncertainty makes him lose control of his nerves.

  • His fellows encourage him, but they urge him to stand firm saying

  • "This is a sacrifice, but you must suffer for the prenda".

  • The officiant scratches him. With a knife,

  • he carves into his skin the identifying marks of the Seven Rays,

  • the Spirit SANGO for the worshippers of Regla de Ocha.

  • The candidate is exhausted, but the worst is over,

  • now he only has to receive blessings.

  • After five hours in a blindfold, Jacinto's eyes have to get used to the light again.

  • The officiant instructs him to stick out his tongue pressing a lighting candle to his mouth

  • while repeating principles of the religion.

  • It will give him strength, light, agility and stability

  • Once the initiation is over, the prendas mayombe must be fed.

  • So a goat and two hens are sacrificed.

  • Their blood will satisfy the appetite of the dead,

  • who will help the newly-initiated member to follow the way of Palo Monte.

  • Drink from the goat's head.

  • Take it as if it were ours

  • and allow us to go on living.

  • The Regla de Ocha worshippers also worship OLORUM,

  • the sea siren that lives in the depths.

  • They make offerings of fruit and flowers

  • and ask her to accept the actions on which they wish to embark

  • and to help them overcome hardships.

  • She is a friendly goddess who is always nearby.

  • Brazil was the other place where a large number of slaves arrived during the time of the slave trade.

  • It is estimated that there was a population of almost nine million black Africans at the end of the 18th Century.

  • Here too syncretic religions and cults such as

  • candomblé, makumba and umbanda developed.

  • Whites and Blacks both practice these religions,

  • which have developed at the same time as members of the highest social classes became followers.

  • Umbanda is based on the worship of the EGUN,

  • beings with great spiritual light, strength and wisdom.

  • Their objective is to attract these beneficial spirits so as to do good.

  • Here, drums and rhythm play a fundamental role.

  • Each spirit has its own beat and its own cadence.

  • Their altars are dedicated to the same deities as in voodoo and Regla de Ocha:

  • EXU, OGGUN, the warrior, LEMANYA, the siren,

  • OBATALA, the creator, XANGO,

  • and the rest of the African pantheon.

  • The "Pai de Santo" the Umbanda priest, draws the symbol of EXU on the ground.

  • This is the Lord of the ways, the ancestral "Pai"

  • the intermediary between men and spirits.

  • He is compared with St Peter in syncretism.

  • This is a joker of a spirit that drinks and smokes a lot, but who is beneficial and loves children.

  • Here the dark world of black magic exists too.

  • Vodum fetishes from Dahomey which may exercise a sinister influence in a secret place.

  • There are enormous umbanda temples, like this one in Rio de Janeiro,

  • with hundreds of thousands of worshippers.

  • Some of them have sports fields and other activities,

  • and perform an important social function with orphanages,

  • shelters and aid for poor districts.

  • This is the evolution of a religion as old as man himself,

  • which over time has been cleansed

  • and become more sophisticated

  • but which maintains its purest spiritual concepts.

  • Periodically, the followers meet and perform sessions

  • where our now familiar African deities descend to transmit their messages.

  • The trances are not as sharp as in other religions,

  • but they all encounter their friendly saint.

  • Everything started one night in Africa, when a black man sacrificed a hen

  • and he offered it to the spirits that he saw in the stars,

  • gods that travelled as slaves and helped their faithful followers to gain their freedom.

  • Perhaps everything that we have seen is not real.

  • Perhaps spirits do not exist and do not live so closely alongside the living.

  • In the West it is hard for us to believe in these religions,

  • but bearing in mind that millions of human beings can feel these forces

  • and are able to interpret them,

  • it is worth our while to ask ourselves the question

  • and allow ourselves to doubt.

The slave trade with the New World was started not long after the Discovery of America.

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