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  • [MUSIC]

  • My name is Daniel Hernandez.

  • I'm the editor of Vice Mexico.

  • We're here outside the Vice Mexico offices in

  • Colonia Roma, in Mexico City.

  • And today we are gonna take a shotgun tour of

  • three classic Mexico City fondas.

  • [MUSIC]

  • I think that Fonda's faithfully reflect

  • the gastronomical traditions of

  • past generations in Mexico.

  • At a Fonda, everyone is equal.

  • Usually, there is

  • a menu of the day served around lunch time.

  • And this starts off with soup, and

  • then comes rice, or

  • pasta, and then the main dish, or Quisado.

  • [MUSIC]

  • Right now we're heading to La Beatricita, which

  • has been in operation in Mexico City since 1910.

  • La Senora Beatrice Mucino developed tacos that

  • became famous among rioters and

  • politicians in Mexico.

  • And we're going to try the famous Paquete,

  • the 58 peso breakfast package.

  • So, [LAUGH] we're gonna go and check it out.

  • [MUSIC]

  • >> Well this restaurant is full of tradition.

  • It has been around since 1907.

  • And since 1972 we have been in Zona Rosa.

  • I think the secret, more than anything else,

  • is the love we have for the restaurant.

  • I am currently the last descendant of that

  • generation.

  • And this is the last restaurant we still have,

  • after more than 100 years of business.

  • And the main thing is

  • that the flavor has not changed.

  • That is very difficult to maintain.

  • [MUSIC]

  • >> Just like many others have done, and

  • her brother migrated to Mexico City in search of

  • a better life.

  • They set up a that gradually became famous

  • and grown and

  • is still known today as La Beatricita.

  • 100 years later, you can

  • have La Beatricita what back in the day

  • [MUSIC]

  • >> The main thing that most people enjoy is the

  • mole poblano, made with our traditional recipe.

  • So we have managed to conserve our

  • original recipes so that when people come,

  • it tastes exactly the same.

  • This is the special taco.

  • It is fried tortilla,

  • filled with chicken breast,

  • topped with the house specialty, which is mole,

  • and then cheese and sour cream.

  • [MUSIC]

  • What do you think of the mole?

  • Have you ever tried anything like it?

  • >> Off the bat, I would say no.

  • [LAUGH] >> No,

  • it is very different.

  • That is the pozole.

  • Look, here it is.

  • that is the pozole.

  • Look, here it is. If you want you can add

  • onion, oregano, and a little bit of salsa.

  • But, be careful it is very spicy.

  • To accompany it, you take a bite of the tostada,

  • and then you eat the pozole.

  • >> It doesn't feel heavy like pozole usually does.

  • This one isn't greasy.

  • >> No, it's actually very light,

  • because the meat is very lean.

  • Look, these are the flans.

  • This one is vanilla and caramel.

  • And this one is coconut flan.

  • It is a bit more cake-like,

  • and it is baked.

  • >> Let's do it. [MUSIC]

  • Lunchtime.

  • [MUSIC]

  • Here we are in Colonia Guerrero, a popular,

  • historic, very old barrio close to

  • the historic city of Mexico City.

  • It's time to have lunch.

  • For many people in Mexico City it's

  • the most important meal of the day,

  • the biggest meal of the day.

  • In this case,

  • I've heard good things about the chili relleno,

  • so I'm not sure what I'm gonna have yet but

  • I'm leaning toward the chili relleno.

  • [MUSIC]

  • >> Welcome and enjoy.

  • We hope to satisfy.

  • The food you eat during your visit is flavorful,

  • delicious and exquisite.

  • If life's delicacies are what you are after,

  • it's whatever food the customer asks for.

  • Fly away birdie with your adorning beauty, but

  • remember what awaits you at Fonda La Reforma.

  • >> Bravo.

  • [APPLAUSE] [LAUGH] >> Someone wrote that in

  • exchange for a quick meal.

  • So that's just its popularity.

  • It is very popular.

  • >> We were all born here in this neighborhood and

  • so were our children.

  • We are all family.

  • That is my son.

  • That is my son.

  • The waitress is my niece.

  • The man with grey hair is my brother.

  • We are all family.

  • >> This place was established 80 years ago.

  • >> 80 years.

  • >> We used to be across the street,

  • next to the chicken place.

  • We were there for 75 years.

  • >> So if you were there for

  • 75 years, you have been here for less, right?

  • >> Yes. >> Less than

  • ten years here.

  • >> My mother founded this restaurant.

  • She's the one who took care of me and

  • my 20 brothers.

  • She cooked really well.

  • She cooked any kind of dish.

  • [MUSIC]

  • Here the family specials are rice, pork rinds,

  • stuffed chilies, mole, pork stew, and the soup.

  • >> Excellent.

  • Let's get started with the menu.

  • I'll start with the soup.

  • Flabby soup.

  • Warm and made from scratch.

  • Warm and delicious.

  • >> The soup is prepared with chicken stock,

  • pork stock, onion, garlic, and tomato.

  • >> Now we are starting the second course,

  • which is the rice.

  • It is a staple dish.

  • There are a couple of chili peppers thrown in.

  • >> The rice is made with corn, peas,

  • carrots and chilies.

  • >> Now we are going to try the chile relleno

  • at La Reforma,

  • a diner with lots of history and tradition.

  • It is in an area of Mexico City

  • that tourists might night visit, but

  • those who are in the know, know.

  • This is a chile relleno,

  • made of dried chile ancho.

  • A red chili.

  • The breading, the chili and the cheese.

  • A perfect trifecta.

  • It tastes like real home cooking,

  • like it was carefully prepared by them.

  • It is delicious.

  • So dessert is here.

  • It is just a little something,

  • half an orange, which I think is perfect.

  • A good ending to a good meal,

  • here at La Reforma in Colonia Guerrero.

  • [MUSIC]

  • So, the day isn't over yet.

  • We're gonna go to a place called Fonda Margarita

  • in a few hours and a, and a bit longer.

  • This is a place that is special because it's open

  • only from sunrise to before noon.

  • [MUSIC]

  • So, it's just past 5 a.m.

  • The streets of Mexico City are pretty empty.

  • And now, we're headed to Fonda Margarita famously

  • only opens you know, between dawn and noon of

  • the next day and, so I've never had the chance to

  • make it here even though I've heard about this

  • place for forever and have been wanting to go.

  • Never had that warrior status to

  • make it here after a long night of drinking.

  • But we're on our way there now.

  • [MUSIC]

  • [FOREIGN] Looks like there is the pork rinds,

  • beef in pasilla chilli.

  • Looks like there is the pork rinds,

  • beef in pasilla chilli.

  • That one is the pancita.

  • >> Yes, it is.

  • >> It looks delicious.

  • >> We have been here for about 48 years.

  • We always have the best, freshest ingredients.

  • We never serve leftovers.

  • Look, this is pork in salsa.

  • >> Ooh.

  • >> This is longaniza, sausage.

  • >> This is just being prepared,

  • they are refried beans.

  • >> And that is lard?

  • >> Uh-huh.

  • >> Yummy.

  • >> And this is where we cook ribs, eggs.

  • >> Damn, everything looks delicious.

  • [MUSIC]

  • >> Well the first to arrive are the ones who

  • haven't slept yet.

  • Next come the early birds,

  • mostly older people.

  • A little bit later the families start to arrive.

  • >> And the dishes start to run out,

  • and it's over, but

  • people are still in line, aren't they?

  • >> Yes, we send someone to tell them that all we

  • have left are eggs,

  • beans, or grilled chicken.

  • Everyone says that is fine and stay in line.

  • Sometimes it's 1 pm and

  • all we are serving is eggs.

  • Here even our eggs are tasty.

  • [MUSIC]

  • >> This is sausage and egg.

  • >> This is pancita, beef tripe soup.

  • I am dying to try it, can I?

  • [MUSIC]

  • Let's pass this over to our colleague, Danny D.

  • This is carne asada with guacamole.

  • Damn, I think I am done.

  • [LAUGH] I think 24 hours of

  • visiting fondas in DF has taken its toll.

  • [LAUGH] In a city that has so

  • many Fondas, I think everyone has that one

  • place that they swear is the best.

  • The only rule here is,

  • you're in the know, then you're in the know.

  • [MUSIC]

[MUSIC]

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