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  • Hi, I'm Rick Steves,

  • and it's Christmastime in Europe.

  • From manger scenes to mistletoe from Norway to Rome,

  • we're celebrating all over the continent.

  • Buon natale!

  • Froehliche weihnachten!

  • Joyeux noël!

  • Merry Christmas!

  • And thanks for joining us.

  • [ Background orchestra plays "Joy to the World" ]

  • In melting pot America,

  • Christmas is celebrated year after year

  • with traditions that came over on the boat with our ancestors.

  • In this holiday special,

  • we're traveling back to the old country,

  • to places of rich variety and deep roots.

  • We'll explore the history behind our much-loved traditions.

  • Joining friends and families across Europe,

  • we'll discover a Christmas

  • that's both familiar and different.

  • England is filled with voices singing in the season.

  • The short days around the solstice

  • bring Norwegians out

  • to celebrate the light of Christmas.

  • Families, friends, and food

  • are the centerpiece of the French noël.

  • An angelic Christmas presence fills Germany and Austria

  • with wide-eyed wonder.

  • Italy reveals the sacred nature of the season,

  • from its countryside to its holiest shrines.

  • Nature in all its wintry glory

  • seems to shout out the joy of the season in Switzerland.

  • And everywhere Christmas is celebrated with family,

  • including my own, as together,

  • Europe remembers the quiet night

  • that that holiest family came to be.

  • While each European culture

  • gives Christmas its own special twist,

  • they all follow the same story

  • of how the son of God was born on earth,

  • as told in the bible

  • and illustrated over the centuries by great artists.

  • The Christmas story begins with the annunciation:

  • An angel sent from God with a message

  • for a young woman whose name was Mary.

  • And the angel said,

  • "'Fear not, for thou shalt bring forth a son,

  • "'and you will name him Jesus.

  • "'And he shall be called the Son of the Most High

  • and his Kingdom will have no end.'"

  • "And it came to pass,

  • "that there went out a decree from Caesar Augustus,

  • "that all the world should be taxed.

  • "And Joseph, a carpenter from Nazareth,

  • "went to Bethlehem to be taxed,

  • "with Mary, who was expecting a child.

  • "And while they were there,

  • "she brought forth her firstborn son

  • "and laid him in a manger

  • "because there was no room in the inn.

  • "In that region, there were shepherds,

  • "keeping watch over their flocks by night.

  • "An angel of the lord came to them, and said,

  • "'Fear not, for behold,

  • "'I bring you good tidings of great joy.

  • "'For unto you is born on this day in the city of David,

  • "a Savior, which is Christ the Lord.'

  • "And suddenly there was a multitude of angels

  • "proclaiming: 'Glory to God in the Highest,

  • "and on earth peace and good will to all.'

  • "And the shepherds said, 'Let us go to Bethlehem,'

  • "where they found Mary and Joseph

  • and the babe lying in a manger."

  • Now, after Jesus was born, there also came wise men.

  • And a glorious star, which they saw in the east,

  • went before them.

  • Guiding them, it stood over where the child was.

  • The wise men knelt down and worshiped the child,

  • giving him gifts: gold, frankincense, and myrrh.

  • The long-awaited messiah had arrived.

  • This is the story

  • that Christians have celebrated through the ages.

  • We don't really know on which day Jesus was born.

  • Historians argue it was likely in the spring,

  • as shepherds were "tending their flocks."

  • But, in the 4th century, a pope declared December 25

  • to be the official birthday of Jesus.

  • Why that date?

  • Christianity was newly legal in the Roman empire,

  • and the clever pope figured it would be smart

  • if the biggest Christian festival

  • coincided with the biggest pagan one: Winter Solstice.

  • And throughout the land, people --

  • Christians celebrating the birth of the son

  • and pagans celebrating the return of the sun --

  • have been rejoicing ever since.

  • For scenes straight out of a box

  • of old-fashioned Christmas cards,

  • we head to England, to the city of Bath.

  • Here, in the heart of the old town

  • near the magnificent medieval abbey,

  • Bath hosts an annual Christmas market.

  • Carols are a deeply ingrained part

  • of the English Christmas tradition.

  • The custom goes back to Shakespeare's day.

  • Today, young and old sing their way through the season.

  • Here the Bath Abbey Choir of Boys and Men

  • are performing a carol concert by candlelight.

  • [ Choir singing "Oh, Holy Night" ]

  • [ Introduction to light, staccato melody ]

  • [ Choir singing ]

  • As is the case just about anywhere,

  • it's in the countryside that families celebrate Christmas

  • in the most down-to-earth style.

  • My friends Maddy and Paul and their kids,

  • Theo and Leila, are looking for a living tree,

  • which they'll decorate and then plant at home.

  • That the right size?

  • Man: You think it would look good with the fairy on top?

  • Brilliant. I like it.

  • It's a new twist on an old tradition,

  • with a wink to the nature-worshiping pagans

  • who once haunted these parts.

  • Decorating with greens goes back to the druids

  • who adorned their temples with swags of evergreen.

  • For pagans, living greens in the dead of winter

  • represented the persistence of life.

  • And for Christians, evergreens are a reminder

  • of the gift of everlasting life.

  • During the hectic season,

  • getting together to bake Christmas goodies

  • while the little ones decorate edible ornaments,

  • is a fine way for busy mums to spend some time together.

  • Is that all right?

  • Maddy's recipe for mince pies

  • harkens back to the days of Henry VIII.

  • Back then, the dried fruits, spices, and shredded meat

  • for the filling were so expensive

  • that only the wealthy could afford to make mince pie.

  • According to tradition, 12 pies should be eaten

  • during the 12 days of Christmas

  • to ensure good luck each month of the coming year.

  • Woman: Don't let me forget those mince pies, Maddy.

  • But it's the Christmas pudding that's the real centerpiece

  • of a traditional English holiday meal.

  • This is Christmas pudding,

  • and it's made with lots of very special ingredients

  • that in days gone by, they used to be very expensive.

  • And you know you call it "figgy pudding"

  • because they used to have lots of figs in it.

  • But it used to be made in Elizabethan times,

  • and we all have, because it's so special,

  • an extra big stir and an extra big wish.

  • Kids: ♪ Now bring us some figgy pudding. ♪

  • Now bring us some figgy pudding. ♪

  • Now bring us some figgy pudding. ♪

  • Now bring some out here. ♪♪

  • Put this one up here.

  • Like a lot of us,

  • Maddy and Paul are opting for a simpler,

  • less commercial style of Christmas,

  • and that's reflected in their family traditions.

  • Little Theos and Leilas wouldn't always have been

  • so involved in the family activities.

  • Childhood as we know it really began

  • in 19th-century England with the new middle class.

  • And at Christmas those stern Victorians

  • gave themselves permission to indulge their kids.

  • [ Talks indistinctly ]

  • The English tradition of singing starts very young.

  • We're visiting Theo's school as the children take center stage

  • at the 14th-century village church

  • for a very special Christmas concert.

  • [ Children singing to the tune of "Here We Go Round the Mulberry Bush" ]

  • ♪ ...This is the road to Bethlehem

  • on a cold and frosty morning

  • We're going to be taxed in Bethlehem, ♪

  • Bethlehem, Bethlehem

  • We're going to be taxed in Bethlehem

  • on a cold and frosty morning

  • Where should we stay in Bethlehem

  • Bethlehem, Bethlehem

  • Where should we stay in Bethlehem

  • on a cold and frosty morning? ♪

  • There is no place in Bethlehem, ♪

  • Bethlehem, Bethlehem

  • There is no place to Bethlehem

  • on a cold and frosty morning ♪♪

  • [ Applause ]

  • [ Children singing "Jingle Bells" ]

  • Christmas is drawing near,

  • and tonight these lucky children

  • are taking a train through the woods

  • to meet Santa,

  • or as the English know him, Father Christmas.

  • Man: Come on in now.

  • Come on in and stand just there.

  • And you stand just there.

  • You come across there. That's right.

  • Tell me your names.

  • Now, what's your name?

  • Dillon. Hello.

  • What's your name?

  • [ Answers ]

  • And what's your name?

  • Jack.

  • Well done! Now then, most important.

  • What do you want for Christmas?

  • I don't know.

  • Just some surprises.

  • I'm very good at surprises.

  • And what do you want?

  • Well, I haven't writ my list out yet.

  • So we're going to wait for your list,

  • and when it comes, I'll be ready for it.

  • Now, are you going to do something for me?

  • Are you going to leave me something on Christmas eve?

  • Child: Yes!

  • What are you going to leave me?

  • Mince pies and wine!

  • And are you going to leave a carrot for the reindeer?

  • Yeah. Yes!

  • We'll check back on Christmas Eve

  • to see what Theo and Leila leave for Father Christmas.

  • Kate. And something special...

  • While children on their best behavior

  • ask Santa for the toy of their dreams,

  • my wish right now is a chance to hear

  • one of finest chamber choirs in England,

  • The Sixteen,

  • filling a classic church with timeless sounds of the season.

  • Woman soloist: ♪ The holly and the ivy

  • Trees that's both well-known

  • Of all the trees that grows in woods

  • The holly bears the crown

  • Chorus: ♪ The rising of the sun

  • The running of the deer

  • The playing of the merry harp

  • Sweet singing in the choir

  • Male soloist: ♪ The holly bears a bark

  • As bitter as any gall

  • And Mary bore sweet Jesus Christ

  • For to redeem us all

  • Chorus: ♪ The rising of the sun

  • The running of the deer

  • The playing of the merry harp

  • Sweet singing in the choir

  • Woman soloist: ♪ The holly and the ivy

  • Trees that's both well-known

  • Of all the trees that grows in woods

  • The holly bears the crown

  • Chorus: ♪ The rising of the sun

  • The running of the deer

  • The playing of the merry harp

  • Sweet singing in the choir ♪♪

  • Leaving the tranquility of the English countryside behind,

  • London offers Christmas fun fit for a queen

  • and streets filled with holiday cheer.

  • There's magic in the air.

  • Or...Is that snow?

  • Here in Trafalgar Square, in the heart of the city,

  • a winter wonderland has been created just for the day.

  • [ Exclaiming ]

  • [ Laughing ]

  • It's a lovely snowy day, isn't it?

  • Father Christmas has dropped by for the wintry fun,

  • and London's town crier is in fine form

  • as he passes out mince pies and holiday cheer.

  • Nearby at Somerset House, once a grand palace,

  • the courtyard has been transformed

  • into an ice-skating rink,

  • elegant enough to make a commoner feel like royalty.

  • At Covent Garden, shoppers can find classic toys for tots

  • at Benjamin Pollock's famous toy shop,

  • in business since the 1880s.

  • The joy and peace of the Christmas season

  • bring both people and countries together.

  • This giant spruce, a gift from the citizens of Oslo,

  • is a reminder of the friendship

  • forged between Britain and Norway during World War II.

  • And Norway is where we're headed next.

  • Here in small-town Norway,

  • Christmas is celebrated with a unique intimacy

  • and a Scandinavian flair for community.

  • We're in Drobak, about an hour south of Oslo.

  • While it's Norway's self-proclaimed

  • capital of Christmas,

  • Drobak feels like any idyllic town on a fjord.

  • It's Santa Lucia day, December 13th,

  • one of the darkest days of winter

  • and an important part of the Scandinavian Christmas season.

  • All over nordic Europe, little candle-bearing Santa Lucias

  • are bringing light to the middle of winter

  • and the promise of the return of summer.

  • These processions are led by a young Lucia

  • wearing a crown of lights.

  • [ Children singing "Santa Lucia" in Norwegian ]

  • ♪ ...Santa Lucia

  • Santa Lucia ♪♪

  • [ Applause ]

  • This home has housed widows and seniors

  • for over 200 years, and today the kindergarteners

  • are bringing on the light in more ways than one.

  • The children have baked the traditional

  • Santa Lucia saffron buns --

  • the same ones these seniors baked

  • when they were kindergarteners.

  • Taking their cue from Santa Lucia,

  • Norwegians, cozy in their homes,

  • brighten their long, dark winters

  • with lots of candles,

  • white lights -- you'll never see a colored one--

  • and lots of greenery.

  • In Norway, as in the rest of Europe,

  • pagan symbols -- like the evergreen tree --

  • survive disguised as Christmas traditions.

  • The same is true with this sprig of mistletoe.

  • In Scandinavia,

  • it's associated with the Viking Goddess of love.

  • For Celtic people, it was a sacred plant.

  • They used it to heal the sick and enhance fertility.

  • For most of us, it's just a handy excuse

  • to steal a little Christmas kiss.

  • Oh, that's a mistletoe. Mmmm.

  • The Norwegian spirit of Christmas

  • extends even to the departed.

  • Candles flicker in graveyards

  • as locals remember lost loved ones.

  • And all over Norway,

  • communities gather together in churches just like this

  • as choirs cap Santa Lucia Day with a concert.

  • [ Choir singing "Angels We Have Heard on High" ]

  • ♪ ...Glo...ria... ♪

  • In excelsis deo ♪♪

  • And as the congregation follows the Santa Lucias out,

  • more light of Christmas

  • spills into this little fjord-side community.

  • [ Choir singing "Santa Lucia" in Norwegian ]

  • ♪ ...Santa Lucia

  • Santa Lucia ♪♪

  • Christmases everywhere come with special meals.

  • Here in Norway, families treat children to a rice porridge

  • and it comes with a hidden almond.

  • [ Girl exclaiming in Norwegian ]

  • The child who discovers it wins...

  • A marzipan pig!

  • It's reminiscent of the old days

  • when a peasant family's wealth was tied up

  • in its precious pig.

  • [ Talking, laughing ]

  • Jule ol or Christmas beer also goes back to medieval times

  • when the Vikings liked to celebrate the winter solstice

  • with a particularly stout brew.

  • And holiday desserts are a big part

  • of Norway's Christmas season:

  • The local Christmas fruitcake called julekaka

  • and a towering marzipan kransekake.

  • A common theme across cultures is a legendary gift giver --

  • not always fat and jolly -- who kids butter up with treats.

  • While I grew up leaving Santa Claus milk and cookies

  • by the fireplace,

  • the kids here leave a bowl of porridge out by the barn

  • for the julenisse.

  • These mischievous elves-from-the-forest

  • visit each Christmas, not on reindeer,

  • but with a horse, pig, and mouse entourage

  • and a bag of gifts.

  • Every good child knows

  • the julenisse is coming with an exciting reward.

  • Just up the fjord, Norway's capital, Oslo,

  • celebrates Christmas with a more urban charm.

  • Streets are decorated,

  • locals not ready to rely on the julenisse,

  • are out shopping,

  • and good cheer is abundant.

  • [ Shrieking ]

  • Christmas in Oslo feels low-key.

  • You'll find it best not on the streets or in the malls,

  • but in the homes, with friends and in music.

  • Youthful voices fill the city's oldest church.

  • The old Aker Church,

  • which dates back to the 12th century,

  • hosts the Norwegian Girls' Choir

  • for an advent concert.

  • [ Choir singing carol in foreign language ]

  • ♪ ...in excelsis deo ♪♪

  • [ Loud applause ]

  • We'll check back with the Santa Lucias andjulenisselater.

  • And while Norway awaits the return of the sun,

  • further south, Paris creates its own light.

  • Paris is nicknamed Europe's "city of light"

  • for its incandescent energy and effervescent culture.

  • In the dark of winter, the city's best-loved icon,

  • the Eiffel Tower,

  • brilliantly heralds this happy season.

  • By night, Paris's biggest department stores

  • dress up the streets.

  • Printemps is pretty in pink, and the Galeries Lafayette

  • has woven an exquisite embroidery of lights.

  • There's ice skating at the Hotel de Ville.

  • And all along the Champs-Elysées,

  • it's a festive forest of 2,000 twinkling trees.

  • [ Bells chiming ]

  • By day, the signs of Christmas are more subtle

  • but can be found everywhere.

  • The best-dressed trees in Paris

  • are seen here at the Pompidou Center.

  • Where else but in Paris

  • will you find avant-garde Christmas trees

  • making a fashion statement?

  • With visions of Versace dancing in their heads,

  • inspired fashionistas can take their wish lists

  • and head to the designer boutiques on the Rue Royal.

  • Parisians buy fewer Christmas gifts

  • than their American counterparts --

  • more a matter of quality than quantity --

  • and they favor small specialty shops like these.

  • Christmas in Paris is subtle,

  • but the city yields unexpected moments.

  • Turn a corner, and you just might find yourself

  • in an elegant arcade all wrapped up in red.

  • Busy Parisian shoppers fuel up on the city's street food:

  • Steamy crepes...

  • And hot roasted chestnuts.

  • [ Speaks French ]

  • And neighborhood brasseries are full of friends

  • slurping fresh oysters rushed in from the Brittany coast.

  • Oysters are favorites at Christmas,

  • which makes perfect sense

  • as they're plump and delicious this time of year.

  • 'Tis also the season of elegant edibles.

  • Foie gras, a paté made from goose liver

  • and a smidge of cognac,

  • is another Christmas tradition.

  • And chocolate shops and patisseries --

  • wonderful any time of year --

  • get even better at Christmas.

  • There's scrumptious sculptures...

  • Yummy yule logs...

  • And food fit for a king.

  • This patisserie, the oldest in Paris,

  • was opened in 1730

  • by an ex-pastry chef of the royal court.

  • Even sophisticated Paris

  • rolls out the magic carpet for children.

  • French families from all over the country

  • rendezvous at the windows of the grand department stores.

  • Displays are especially designed

  • to enchant the little ones.

  • And stools provided by thoughtful stores

  • make sure that even the tiniest tot enjoys a good view.

  • During Christmas, the Eiffel Tower

  • becomes the highest ice-skating rink in Paris.

  • There are pony rides at Luxembourg Gardens...

  • And the city's magical manèges de noëls:

  • The carousels of Christmas.

  • A clear, cold day brings out Parisians,

  • trying to soak up as much sunlight as possible

  • on these, the shortest days of the year,

  • while a dusting of snow

  • brings out hopes for a white Christmas,

  • just as it would anywhere else.

  • Whether you're young or just young at heart,

  • Christmas in Paris is the stuff of dreams.

  • If Paris is a grandam strutting her Christmas finery,

  • then Burgundy, where we're heading next,

  • is her pious country cousin.

  • [ Choir singing in French ]

  • Burgundy lies in the quiet, religious heart

  • of this mostly secular nation.

  • France's most venerable abbeys are here,

  • and their spirit seems to animate the small villages

  • throughout the region.

  • Ancient traditions survive comfortably here.

  • This 13th-century abbey

  • resonates with the rich sounds of the French group Phonema,

  • singing medieval carols

  • just as they were sung centuries ago.

  • [ Singing continues ]

  • [ Song ends ]

  • A sense of community runs strong in rural France,

  • and it expresses itself in simple rituals

  • shared by families and friends.

  • [ Chainsaw buzzing ]

  • [ Men shouting ]

  • [ Tree crashes ]

  • These old friends come here each winter

  • to cut and gather wood

  • for their fireplaces and stoves.

  • It's the kind of hard work that builds an appetite.

  • Fortunately, they brought drinks to cut the chill...

  • [ Men laughing ]

  • With just enough red wine for the duck.

  • There's bacon to sizzle...

  • And potatoes to roast...

  • Ahhh... C'est bon!

  • [ Men talking in French ]

  • A winter picnic in the woods is as good for the soul

  • as it is for the stomach.

  • [ Speaks French ]

  • In Burgundy, no one goes without.

  • Communities take good care of one another year-round,

  • with special treats at Christmas.

  • This amiable village mayor, accompanied by her entourage,

  • gets into the spirit of things

  • by delivering baskets of delicacies to the elderly

  • for the Christmas eve feast.

  • [ Both speaking French ]

  • This morning my friends the Berteloots

  • are shopping for seasonal fare at the Saturday market.

  • [ Speaking French ]

  • [ Speaking French ]

  • Food's at the center of life in Burgundy,

  • even in the dead of winter.

  • Right about now the truffles are at their pungent best.

  • [ All speaking French ]

  • Delphine and Emmanuel prepare for the grandest culinary event

  • of the year.

  • The French call their Christmas Eve feast

  • "leveillon de noël."

  • [ Speaks French ]

  • At home the family's busy preparing for the big event.

  • The children are decorating candles

  • to set on the windowsill on Christmas eve

  • to light up the dark on the night

  • so filled with anticipation.

  • [ Speaking French ]

  • [ Speaking French ]

  • And the tree's not quite done until capped with a star.

  • [ Both speak French ]

  • In the kitchen, Delphine slices her foie gras...

  • Then devotes herself to the centerpiece of theveillon:

  • Filet of beef wrapped in brioche.

  • Stretching the pastry is a two-person job.

  • After generously grating local truffles

  • the beef is tenderly wrapped

  • and ready for the oven.

  • There's still the serious business

  • of selecting the perfect wine from the cellar.

  • Soon guests will be arriving.

  • This time of year, when days are short and nights are long,

  • it's customary to leave a welcoming light

  • in the window.

  • We'll be back when dinner's ready.

  • But first, we've got some shopping to do...In Germany.

  • When it comes to traditional holiday images,

  • Germany's Bavaria is the heartland.

  • Here we'll savor classic holiday themes:

  • Glittering trees, old-time carols,

  • and colorful Christmas markets.

  • These markets, called Christkindl markets,

  • enliven squares throughout Germany.

  • The most famous is here in Nurnberg.

  • It's a festive swirl

  • of the heartwarming sights, sounds,

  • and smells of Christmas.

  • Long a center of toy making in Germany,

  • a woody and traditional ambiance prevails.

  • Nutcrackers are characters of authority:

  • Uniformed, strong-jawed,

  • and able to crack the tough nuts.

  • Smokers, with their fragrant incense wafting,

  • feature common folk like this village toy maker.

  • Prune people, with their fig body,

  • walnut head, and prune limbs,

  • are dolled up in Bavarian folk costumes.

  • And hovering above it all is the golden Rausch angel,

  • an icon of Christmas in Nurnberg.

  • Rausch is the sound of wind blowing through its wings.

  • It's a favorite for capping family Christmas trees.

  • Bakeries crank out old-fashioned gingerbread --

  • the Lebkuchen Nurnberg --

  • using the original 17th-century recipe.

  • Back then,

  • Nurnberg was the gingerbread capital of the world,

  • and its love affair with gingerbread continues.

  • Shoppers can also munch the famous Nurnberg bratwurst,

  • skinny as your little finger...

  • And sip hot spiced wine.

  • As in so many cultures,

  • kids love their local version of Santa Claus.

  • While Santa is a legend,

  • his character is based on St. Nicholas,

  • a kind and generous bishop

  • who actually lived in Turkey in the 4th century.

  • Holiday gift giving, especially in Catholic regions,

  • is often associated with the feast day of St. Nicholas,

  • December 6.

  • But Germany is Luther country.

  • Back in the early 1500s, the great reformer, Martin Luther,

  • wanted to humanize the Christmas story

  • by shifting the focus away from the saints

  • and back onto the birthday boy: Jesus.

  • Rather than jolly old St. Nick

  • bringing the goodies on December 6th,

  • Luther established the idea

  • that gifts would be given on the 25th

  • by the Christ child or, in German, Christkind.

  • [ Speaking German ]

  • [ Laughing ]

  • But for kids, it was hard to imagine

  • the little baby in the manger delivering gifts,

  • so an angel served

  • as the gift-giving Christ child.

  • And somehow the angel came to be represented by a young girl.

  • She spends her reign spreading the joy of the season.

  • The Christkind concludes by telling the kids,

  • "If you're very, very gentle, you can touch my wings."

  • Nurnberg's favorite angel then leads her fans

  • into the children's section of the market

  • where expertly bundled kids enjoy a Christmas wonderland.

  • [ Children shouting ]

  • The Christkind isn't the only one handing out good cheer.

  • Carolers spread the joy of Christmas

  • using the town's historic courtyards

  • as impromptu concert venues.

  • And here in the land of Bach, Beethoven, and Mozart,

  • seasonal music fills the churches.

  • [ Choir singing in German ]

  • [ Song ends ]

  • Now we cross the border into Austria

  • to the town that to me always feels like Christmas:

  • With its old town gathered under its formidable castle,

  • Salzburg celebrates the holidays

  • with an Alpine elegance.

  • [ Horseshoes clopping ]

  • Festive shopping lanes delight browsers.

  • Markets are busy

  • as locals gather last-minute decorations

  • and perhaps a sprig of fresh mistletoe.

  • [ Gunshots ]

  • And locals celebrate the season

  • in noisier fashions as well.

  • [ Gunshot ]

  • From the castle ramparts, high above town,

  • traditional gunners fire away

  • as they have since the days when they really believed

  • these shots would scare away the evil.

  • [ Gunshots ]

  • Salzburg, nicknamed the Rome of the North,

  • has a magnificent cathedral

  • inspired by St. Peter's at the Vatican.

  • Locals here in the town of Mozart pack the place

  • to mix worship with glorious music.

  • [ Orchestra playing; Choir singing ]

  • [ Bells chiming "Silent Night" ]

  • It was here, in the region of Salzburg

  • that the most loved carol of the Christmas season,

  • "Silent Night," was first sung nearly two hundred years ago.

  • According to legend, a local priest

  • went out one Christmas night to bless a newborn baby.

  • As he walked home in the snow, he was so moved

  • by the stillness of the starlit and holy night

  • that he wrote a poem about it.

  • He gave the poem to Franz Gruber,

  • the organist in his church, who composed a simple tune.

  • On Christmas Eve, 1818,

  • the carol was sung for the first time

  • accompanied only by a guitar.

  • [ Plucks introductory notes ]

  • Both: ♪ Stille nacht

  • Heilige nacht

  • Alles schläft...♪

  • Austria is one of Europe's most traditional corners.

  • Its strong Catholicism and love of heritage

  • shine especially brightly

  • at Christmastime in the countryside.

  • ♪ ...Hochheilige paar

  • Holder knabe

  • Im lockigen haar

  • We're visiting the Weissacher family farm.

  • A typically Tirolean Christmas yodel

  • offers us the warmest of welcomes.

  • [ Group singing in harmony ]

  • Rick: Sehr schone, danke.

  • [ Speaks German ]

  • This family is happy to share its love of the season

  • with a guest.

  • Like just about anywhere,

  • part of Christmas is making cookies with grandma.

  • More unique to Austria is the ritual

  • in which the dad blesses the home with incense

  • as his daughter follows with holy water.

  • The prayer is for a healthy and happy new year.

  • Maria teaches her daughters how the advent wreath

  • marks the four weeks of advent:

  • The season of preparation

  • leading to the advent or arrival of Jesus.

  • Ancient peoples were the first wreath makers.

  • For Christians, that evergreen circle

  • came to symbolize everlasting life.

  • The candles, one for each week,

  • reminded them that the birth of their savior

  • was approaching.

  • Austrians lovingly decorate their tree,

  • but keep it secret and hidden from the children

  • until Christmas Eve arrives.

  • We'll check back to see what the Christkind brings

  • a little later.

  • From here in the Alps, we journey to a grand city

  • that was the capital of the western world

  • on that first Christmas two thousand years ago

  • and remains a leading city in Christendom today.

  • This is home of the Vatican City,

  • headquarters of the Roman Catholic Church

  • and some of Europe's most sacred Christmas traditions.

  • For centuries, pilgrims have hiked

  • from all over Christendom to this great city.

  • Domes and ancient obelisks still serve as markers,

  • lacing together relics and sacred stops...

  • Including the tomb of St. Peter,

  • marked by the greatest dome anywhere.

  • And through the ages, pilgrims have stopped here

  • at the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore.

  • The faithful believe the original planks

  • from Jesus' crib reside in this ornate container.

  • And here in the capital of Catholicism,

  • each Christmas, lovingly constructed manger scenes,

  • called "presepio," pop up all over town.

  • St. Francis of Assisi is credited with assembling

  • the first manger scene in 1223.

  • He used it as a tool to teach people

  • the story of the first Christmas.

  • Since then, in the creative teaching style of St. Francis,

  • manger scenes often put Bethlehem in a local context.

  • Instead of the Middle East, Italians have long set

  • the Holy Family right here with Italian landscapes.

  • St. Francis knew that by putting Jesus in a place

  • people would recognize -- their own neighborhood --

  • the faithful could relate more easily

  • to the story of his birth.

  • And presepi range from the very traditional

  • to the very contemporary,

  • like this one that imagines the nativity

  • in an eskimo village.

  • The ultimate manger scene is back on Rome's ultimate square:

  • St. Peter's, where the pope celebrates midnight mass

  • each Christmas Eve.

  • For Roman families

  • there's more than just manger scenes to see.

  • For centuries this lively square, Piazza Navona,

  • has hosted a boisterous village-like holiday market

  • that stays busy until Epiphany in January.

  • The Christmas season in Europe

  • stretches for well over a month,

  • not to maximize shopping days,

  • but to fit in the season's many holy days.

  • Advent starts four Sundays before Christmas Eve.

  • Then comes the Feast of St. Nicholas on December 6th.

  • Santa Lucia Day is on the 13th,

  • and Europeans don't wrap things up on the 25th.

  • The 12 days of Christmas stretch from the 25th

  • through January 6th.

  • That's Epiphany,

  • the day the three kings finally delivered the gifts.

  • On Epiphany, La Befana, a popular Christmas witch,

  • flies over the rooftops of Italy

  • filling children's stockings with candy...Or coal.

  • Between visiting their manger scenes

  • and Christmas witches,

  • many Italians are shopping for their big Christmas eve dinner.

  • [ Shouts in Italian ]

  • When it comes to a festa,

  • Italians like to buy fresh and local,

  • and lucky Romans enjoy

  • an abundance of farmers markets.

  • La vigilia, the traditional Christmas Eve dinner,

  • calls for all the trimmings.

  • Here in Rome, that's lots of veggies

  • and a nice big female eel!

  • As in many places,

  • Christmas in Rome is a time of giving.

  • The spirit of charity is alive in this neighborhood,

  • which has come together for a special holiday meal.

  • At the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere,

  • tables have replaced pews

  • and the poor are enjoying a feast

  • prepared and served by the community.

  • It's a joyful occasion, and by all accounts

  • those doing the giving feel as blessed as those they feed.

  • Outside of Rome,

  • in villages in regions like Tuscany,

  • Christmas celebrations are a little more rustic.

  • The festivities, while low-key, are memorable.

  • During a busy season that sometimes feels overwhelming,

  • village life can be refreshingly simple.

  • These jovial friends are playing an old game.

  • The idea is to throw the panforte, the local fruitcake,

  • close to the edge of the table without having it slide off.

  • [ All talking in Italian ]

  • [ All exclaim ]

  • [ Woman calls to child ]

  • Siìì.

  • These children are flip-flopping

  • the gift-giving tradition.

  • Woman: Graze!

  • Boy: <i?Buon natale.

  • They're delivering another Christmas treat, panettone,

  • a rich brioche made with raisins and citrus,

  • to older folks who don't have any family.

  • [ Women speaking Italian ]

  • While providing a bright spot in this grandma's day,

  • the child experiences the joy of giving.

  • And today the children have another important errand.

  • It's time to post their letters to Babbo Natale,

  • the Italian version of Santa Claus.

  • This special mailbox

  • mysteriously appears each Christmas.

  • [ Men singing gregorian chant ]

  • Sacred music and prayer infuse this tranquil landscape.

  • Here at the 15th-century Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore,

  • reclusive monks celebrate their faith

  • in a timeless fashion

  • as if one with the communities they serve.

  • [ Chanting continues ]

  • And in this town,

  • the local community is doing a dress rehearsal

  • for a presepio vivente, or living nativity.

  • On Christmas Eve in this simple cloister

  • they'll recreate the town of Bethlehem

  • on that holiest of nights.

  • Monks: ♪ Amen ♪♪

  • In the countryside,

  • you appreciate how sacred traditions have deep roots.

  • Here in this medieval Tuscan hill town,

  • villagers stack neat pyramids of wood for great bonfires.

  • The lighting of the fires is a signal to villagers,

  • dressed as shepherds, to come and sing old carols.

  • [ All singing in Italian ]

  • It's a reminder that through the ages

  • Italy's humble shepherds entertained the faithful

  • as they gathered by fires to warm themselves

  • and await the arrival of Christmas.

  • [ Singing continues ]

  • [ Applause ]

  • While Italy has the rich history,

  • magnificent manger scenes, and grand churches,

  • the spirit of Christmas can be experienced

  • everywhere in Europe.

  • High in Switzerland, where the churches are small

  • and villages huddle below towering peaks,

  • the mighty Alps seem to shout the glory of God.

  • Up here, Christmas fills a wintry wonderland

  • with good cheer.

  • [ Bells clanging ]

  • In these villages, traditions are strong,

  • [ clanging continues louder ]

  • And warmth is a priority.

  • Ovens are small so wood is, too.

  • My family has arrived for a Swiss Alps Christmas.

  • Along with our kids, Andy and Jackie,

  • my wife, anne, has joined me here

  • in the tiny town of Gimmelwald

  • where we're having some fun

  • with our friends Olle and Maria and their kids.

  • [ Shrieks and laughter ]

  • Yahoo!

  • Hoo! Hoo-hoo!

  • Whoo!

  • Olle is taking us high above his village

  • on a quest to find and cut the perfect Christmas tree.

  • [ Olle speaks indistinctly ]

  • Well, what your think about this tree here?

  • I'm not sure...

  • Well, let's shake it.

  • Let's go.

  • No.

  • Pappa, look at this.

  • Yeah, Olle, I think we can do better.

  • [ Laughter ]

  • Yeah, this is much prettier.

  • What do you think?

  • Yeah, this is a good tree. I think we should cut it.

  • [ Various people exclaiming ]

  • [ Indistinct talking and laughter ]

  • Still high above Gimmelwald,

  • we're stopping in this hut for a little fondue.

  • Woman: We've got the tree.

  • Girl: Yes!

  • Olle: That was quite a bit of work.

  • Rick: Mmm. This feels just right in the winter, doesn't it.

  • Maria: When it's cold outside, it's perfect.

  • Figugegl Fondu isch guet

  • und git e gueti Lune Means, um...

  • And it means in English "Fondue is delicious

  • and gives a good mood."

  • So if you have a party, it's going to be --

  • Yes, everybody knows what figugel means.

  • If there's fondue, it'll be a good ambiance.

  • Yes. [ All laugh ]

  • It's impossible not to linger in this cozy setting.

  • Before we know it,

  • the light outside begins to fade.

  • Here's to a happy Christmas.

  • Cheers!

  • [ All laugh ]

  • As the sun sets, we've got our tree

  • and take an unforgettable ride home to Gimmelwald.

  • [ Laughing, shrieking ]

  • Back in the village, the kids take the tree home,

  • and we've been invited to enjoy another Christmas tradition.

  • While I grew up opening windows on paper Advent calendars,

  • up here the windows are real.

  • Twenty-five homes each decorate a window for Advent.

  • The sense of anticipation is the same

  • as, day by day, Christmas approaches.

  • [ Bells jingling, sheep bleating ]

  • Advent is all about anticipation.

  • And for the kids, much of that anticipation

  • is about presents:

  • Rewards for being not naughty, but nice.

  • And as we've seen, throughout Europe

  • each culture seems to have its own version of Santa Claus,

  • who serves parents

  • by providing children incentives for good behavior.

  • Here in the Alps, it's Samichlaus.

  • That's Swiss-German for St. Nicolas --

  • and his sidekick, Schmutzli.

  • My son, Andy, is playing Samichlaus this year.

  • Olle's son, Sven, is playing Schmutzli.

  • And the donkey is playing himself.

  • Each year, Gimmelwald's children anticipate a visit

  • from this dynamic Christmas duo.

  • Samichlaus surprises the children

  • and checks in his ledger

  • to see if they've been doing their chores.

  • Have you been feeding the cows lately?

  • [ Speaks Swiss-German ]

  • Then he might ask for song or a poem,

  • what would you like to sing?

  • [ Sings in Swiss-German ]

  • And the performance is always followed by a treat

  • from his big bag of gifts.

  • I hope you have a merry Christmas.

  • [ Speaks Swiss-German ]

  • See you next year.

  • Bye.

  • [ Everybody laughing ]

  • Mission accomplished, it's time for dinner.

  • Back home, grandma and grandpa have joined the gang

  • as we settle into a classic Swiss Christmas evening.

  • For this family, the holiday feast includes ham,

  • scalloped potatoes with mountain cheese,

  • and lovingly decorated gingerbread cookies.

  • After dinner, both our families gather in the living room.

  • Lighting the candles is a treat

  • our children will always remember.

  • [ Man reading in German ]

  • Three generations come together

  • as grandpa reads from the ancient family bible.

  • [ Continues reading in German ]

  • [ Singing in German ]

  • And we all love a little caroling.

  • [ Singing continues ]

  • [ Song ends ]

  • The evening's capped off with the sharing of gifts.

  • [ Exclamations, appreciative comments ]

  • Christmas Eve is finally here, and right about now,

  • all across Europe,

  • our friends are celebrating this long-anticipated night

  • in their own unique ways.

  • Down the chimney St. Nicholas came with a bound...

  • In England, the family snuggles together,

  • anticipating the arrival of Father Christmas.

  • [ Crowd singing carol ]

  • Up in Norway, they're joining hands in song.

  • [ Speaking French ]

  • In Burgundy, a toast starts theveillon.

  • And Delphine's beef is finally done.

  • [ Exclamations and applause ]

  • In Austria, the children discover

  • what their grandparents have been hiding from them.

  • And final touches are made

  • to the Bethlehem being created in Tuscany.

  • [ Bell pealing ]

  • And at the Vatican, people pack St. Peter's,

  • as millions around the world

  • share a sacred and glorious midnight mass.

  • Choir: ♪ Hark, how the bells, sweet silver bells

  • All seem to say throw cares away

  • Christmas is here bringing good cheer

  • To young and old, meek and the bold

  • Ding, dong, ding, dong, that is the song

  • With joyful ring, all caroling

  • One seems to hear words of good cheer

  • From everywhere filling the air

  • Oh, how they pound, raising the sound

  • ♪ O'er hill and dale, telling their tale

  • Gaily they ring, while people sing

  • Songs of good cheer, Christmas is here

  • Merry, merry, merry, merry Christmas

  • Merry, merry, merry, merry Christmas

  • Christmas is here bringing good cheer

  • To young and old, meek and the bold

  • Ding, dong, ding, dong, that is the song

  • With joyful ring, all caroling

  • One seems to hear words of good cheer

  • From everywhere filling the air

  • Oh, how they pound, raising the sound

  • ♪ O'er hill and dale, telling their tale

  • Gaily they ring, while people sing

  • Songs of good cheer, Christmas is here

  • Merry, merry, merry, merry Christmas

  • Merry, merry, merry, merry Christmas

  • On, on they send on without end

  • Their joyful tone to every home

  • Ahhh ♪ ♪ On, on they send on without end

  • Ahhh ♪ ♪ Their joyful tone to every home ♪♪

  • And as Christmas day dawns,

  • a joyful chorus heralds the birth of Jesus.

  • [ Loud chorus of bells pealing ]

  • [ Bells fade away ]

  • Happy Christmas!

  • Joyeux noël!

  • Schone Weihnachten!

  • Buon natale...!

  • God jul!

  • Merry Christmas.

  • Frohliche Weinachten!

  • Joyeux noël!

  • Happy Christmas!

  • Ho, ho, ho, Frohe Weihnachten!

  • Buon natale!

  • All: God yul!

  • [ Bell clanging ]

  • Oyez! Oyez!

  • I wish you all a very merry Christmas!

  • From our family to yours,

  • peace on earth and goodwill to all!

  • Merry Christmas!

  • Merry Christmas!

  • This program comes with a companion book

  • and music CD.

  • The book is packed this color photos,

  • more detailed history of Christmas in Europe

  • and traditional recipes.

  • The CD is filled with the wonderful performances

  • found in the program,

  • along with many other seasonal favorites.

  • For more information about the locations,

  • people and performers seen here

  • and to learn about other Rick Steves DVDs,

  • his European guidebooks, tours, and free travel newsletter,

  • visit...

Hi, I'm Rick Steves,

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