the Adriatic and a lot more. It's Croatia. Thanks for joining us.

Croatia is a fascinating land with a hard-fought history in a complex corner of Europe. And

as travelers are rediscovering its charms, it's emerging as one of Europe's top destinations.

Exploring Croatia, we'll see the Pearl of the Adriatic, sample some island charm, wander

Roman ruins, and hike through a watery wonderland. We'll enjoy its thriving capital city, the

Italian-like charm of Istria, and that peninsula's enchanting port town.

Yugoslavia filled much of Europe's Balkan Peninsula during most of the 20th century.

When Yugoslavia broke up into separate countries in the 1990s, Croatia wound up with most of

its coastline. We start south in Dubrovnik, sail along the Dalmatian Coast, stopping at

Korcula and Hvar en route to Split. After exploring Plitvice Lakes National Park and

the capital city of Zagreb, we travel to the Istrian peninsula, to Rovinj.

Spectacularly set Dubrovnik is both historic and a hit with tourists. It's understandably

Croatia's top draw.

Whether surveying its stout walls, joining the promenade along its main drag, or appreciating

its former glory, it's clear this city was a major power in the past and is a major draw

today. Exploring its evocative back lanes, relaxing on its pebbly beaches, or just pondering

its majestic setting...Dubrovnik is simply delightful.

Dubrovnik is the Pearl of the Adriatic. In fact, we'll cover it in more detail in another

episode. For this program, we'll leave the crowds of Dubrovnik and explore the less-appreciated

corners of Croatia.

Boats, big and small, connect Dubrovnik to the rest of Croatia. We're setting sail along

the scenic Dalmatian Coast with its countless islands. They're all variations on the same

theme - rugged limestone features with historic port towns and sparsely populated interiors.

The rocky soil and persistent sun are good for grapes. And the pebbly beaches with crystal

clear water are both pristine and inviting.

We're visiting two islands and first up is Korčula. Visitors enjoy its "mini-Dubrovnik"

vibe. You'll find a fortified peninsula under a striking mountain backdrop. In the Old Town,

narrow lanes come with an easygoing charm.

Like other Croatian coastal towns, Korčula has two parts: The functional, practical side

- where most people park, eat, and sleep - and the time-warp old town.

Rather than stay in a big resort hotel, I'm staying in a sobe - that's a room rented in

a private home. I called ahead and my hosts, Lenni and Peter, met me at the boat. They

rent six rooms in their house buried deep in Korcula's old town. A 500 year old building

can be tight.

This room may be small, but it's comfortable, air-conditioned, and half the price of a hotel.

And a great location...they claim Marco Polo lived just up the street.

The town's charms are all within a few steps. The historic gate is a reminder that Korcula

was once a mighty little place. Façades recall its 14th century trading heyday. Each lane

contributes to the evocative medieval townscape, dripping with drying laundry and local character.

You can savor it all over a cup of coffee.

If you want to enjoy the Croatian café scene, it helps to know a few words. For a latte,

it's Beila Kava. That's white coffee.

We're setting sail again. Both lumbering car ferries and sleek cruise ships carry Dalmatia's

many visitors efficiently from port to port.

In ancient times Greeks and Romans sailed up and down this coastline - establishing

many trade settlements. The island of Hvar was settled and named by the Greeks in the

4th century BC.

The island's main town, also named Hvar, nestles under its formidable fortress. Its handy boat

connections make this a popular stop. While mobbed with tourists in peak season, we're

here in late May and it's more sleepy than chic.

Like most major towns along the Adriatic coastline, the fortified harbor of Hvar was a strategic

link in a vast 16th century Venetian trading Empire. Its fortress, walls, tower, and palaces

all built by and for the Venetians.

Activities are low energy. Expertly enjoying this town, seemingly made for relaxing, yachters

stern tie into the good life. Visitors nurse drinks on the main square. Stroll the back

lanes...where you may come upon a musical surprise.

Local a cappella choirs perform Klapa music - the quintessential Dalmatian folk music.

Every town has their all male Klapa choir. These songs of seafaring life, of loves lost

and loves found, stir the souls of Croatians and visitors alike.

(A capella choir singing.) Rick: Bravo. Yeah.

When it comes to mealtime, here on the coast, it's gotta be seafood. Hardworking restaurants

seem to abide by the local creed: eating meat is food...eating fish, that's pleasure. Our

waiter reminded us that a fish should swim three times: first in the sea, then in olive

oil, and finally in wine.

After a little island-hopping, approaching urban Split - Croatia's "second city" - feels

like a return to civilization. So many Dalmatian Coast towns feel tailor made for tourism,

Split is a serious port. It's vibrant with or without its visitors.

Split feels modern. But, a close look at the surviving façade of a Roman palace fronting

its harbor reveals the city's ancient roots. Today's residents are literally living in

a Roman emperor's palace. In the fourth century a.d., when Roman Emperor Diocletian retired,

he built a vast residence for his golden years here in his native Dalmatia. When Rome fell,

Diocletian's palace was abandoned. Eventually, a medieval town sprouted from its abandoned

shell. And, to this day, the maze of narrow alleys - once literally Diocletian's hallways

- makes up the core of Split.

Local guide Maya Benzon is joining us to help explain the story behind her hometown.

Maya: The palace was huge, 200 meters on each side and these were just the basements so

you can imagine what was on the upper floor. Roman engineers could build anything.

Rick: So they had concrete, they had bricks round arches, they had the technology.

Maya: Yes, they had the technology and they had the slaves.

Rick: Cheap labor. Maya: Yes.

Nearby a grand underground hallway now used as a shopping arcade leads to Diocletian's

vestibule.

Maya: This is the grand entryway towards Diocletian's private area, private quarters. Roman emperors

called themselves the gods. And Diocletian called himself Jovius, son of the god Jupiter.

People worship him so they were kissing his robe. They treated him like a god on earth.

Diocletian's mausoleum dominated the center of the palace complex. Much of the original

Roman building survives - the impressive dome, columns and capitals, and fine carved reliefs.

Diocletian was notorious for persecuting Christians. But centuries later, in the Middle Ages his

mausoleum was converted into a cathedral. And so, ironically, what Diocletian built

to glorify his memory is used instead to remember his victims - Christian martyrs...like this

one who was tied to a mill stone and tossed into the sea.

A few steps away is a temple dedicated to Jupiter.

Rick: This is all part of Diocletian's Palace complex?

Maya: Yes, we are still walking in the area of Diocletian's palace and you know Diocletian

was Jovius. And here in the middle of the palace he erected the house for his father,

this is Jupiter's temple and for a Roman building it's very rare that it's completely preserved

with the ceiling, with the roof. So on the ceiling you can see really nice Roman carvings.

You can see some faces, some flowers. Later on during the history of the Middle Ages this

was converted into the church so this was the medieval baptistery. We have St. John

the Baptist and here we have the baptismal font. And we have this curious panel here

in the front. We have Croatian king from the 11th century. We have a bishop standing just

next to him and underneath his feet we have a citizen.

Rick: So you've got the secular power, the religious power and the people respecting

the power. Maya: That would be it. Because this is a

baptistery, here we have a statue of St. John the Baptist. This is a modern work of the

20th century made by the greatest Croatian sculpturist ever, Ivan Musturich.

A highlight for me is simply people watching. The sea of Croatian humanity laps at the walls

of Diocletian's Palace along the pedestrian promenade or Riva. As on similar promenades

throughout the Mediterranean world, the cars have made way for the people. Strolling locals

finish their days in good style...just enjoying life's simple pleasures in a city made friendly

for its residents.

While the coast is Croatia's main draw, some of its best attractions are inland. We're

delving into the Croatian heartland.

One of Europe's top natural wonders is Plitvice Lakes National Park. Imagine Niagara Falls

sliced and diced and sprinkled over a vast and heavily forested canyon. It's a lush and

unforgettable valley of 16 terraced lakes, laced together by waterfalls and miles of

pleasant plank walks.

Boats glide visitors into the heart of the park. Countless cascades and water that's

strangely clear yet full of vibrant colors make Plitvice a misty natural wonderland.

Fish seem to know there's not a hook for miles. Carefully maintained trails and boardwalks

let you get intimate with the wonder of the place. Observant nature lovers can choose

from hundreds of flower types to assemble a photographic bouquet.

The stony formations drip down like the foliage because the grass and moss both direct the

flow of the water and provide a kind of scaffolding for the slow and steady calcification process.

Naturalists call Plitvice a "perfect storm" of geological, climatic, and biological features.

The magic ingredient: calcium carbonate, a mineral deposit from the limestone that gets

dissolved into the water, then re-deposited - continually breaking down natural travertine

dams...and building up new ones.

Tranquil as this park is, it was here, in 1991, that the first shots of Croatia's war

with Yugoslavia were fired. And, if you know where to look, evidence of the war survives.

When Croatia declared its independence from Yugoslavia in 1991, its Serb minority - about

10 percent of the population - was concerned about its rights. So they broke away from

the new state of Croatia, which plunged the region into four years of war.

While the war barely touched the coastline, here in the interior - which had a sizable

Serb minority - the fighting was devastating.

In towns like Otocac bullet holes still mar facades. These scars reflect the brutal house-to-house

fighting that characterized the war. Seeing bomb-damaged homes rebuilt, makes you ponder

loss, resilience and hope. The Croats' Catholic Church, once shelled and now repaired, has

a poignant memorial in its garden: Christ crucified on a cross of artillery shells.

Taking a little extra time to wander through town gives an insight into people moving on

with their lives.

While a few Serbs are returning, the reality is the war changed the ethnic make-up of Croatia

forever. As disturbing as these reminders of war are, it is uplifting to be here and

to actually see how well the country's putting itself back together.

Our next stop: the capital city...Zagreb. You can't get a complete picture of modern

Croatia without a visit here. This lively and livable city is home to one out of every

six Croatians.

Jelačić Square - the "Times Square" of Zagreb - is boisterous with modern commerce and local

life. The statue depicts the square's namesake, Josip Jelačić - the 19th-century national

hero who still inspires Croatians today.

Seeing the city buzz with activity, you feel the energy of urban Croatia. Night or day,

the streets are a parade of stylish locals - confident and looking good. The people-friendly

business zone comes with the energy and bustle you'd expect to find in any prosperous European

capital. Whether you're enjoying an outdoor café, window-shopping, or just lounging in

one of the city's many inviting parks, Zagreb makes you wonder "where are all the tourists."

Zagreb's historic upper town blankets a hill. Its main square is home to Croatia's government.

The national parliament building flies both the Croatian and European flags. Dominating

the square is the Church of St. Mark - with the colorfully tiled roof depicting both the

coat of arms of Croatia and the city seal of Zagreb.

Nearby is the Croatian Museum of Naive Art. This charming collection features lyrical

landscapes and village scenes painted in the mid-20th-century by self-taught peasant artists.

While some are on canvas, most are painted on glass - a cheap and readily available material

that was easier to work on.

Naïve art is created by untrained artists isolated from the artistic mainstream. They

painted in a figurative way while the rest of the artistic world was embracing an increasingly

abstract style.

Generalic, shown here in a self-portrait, was the father of the Croatian Naive art movement.

In 1953, he took his art to a show in Paris as a relative unknown. He was a huge hit,

sold everything, and came home rich and famous.

These Croatian Naïve artists were outsiders - sought out by art world insiders to validate

their notion that artistic ability was more than a learned skill, it was an inborn talent.

In places such as rural Croatia, medieval lifestyles survived well into the 20th century.

You see a lot of winter scenes because these artists were farmers first...busy tending

their fields through the growing season. They painted their village world...isolated from

the modern world. In a complex age, many urbanites found this art refreshing for its brute simplicity.

Tucked inside Zagreb's only surviving town gate is an evocative chapel. The focal point

is a painting of Mary that miraculously survived a fire in 1731. People, young and old, passing

through, stop here briefly to worship. Pausing reverently, the faithful bring their concerns

to Mary. The many candles represent Zagrebian prayers. Smoke-stained plaques on the wall

give thanks - hvala - for prayers answered.

Just down the road, is a thriving pedestrian zone - Zagreb's main café street and urban

promenade. Comfy seating encourages people to slow down and enjoy each other's company.

Sitting here, it's clear...Zagrebians love their city.

Thanks to new freeways, the Istrian Peninsula, in Croatia's northwest corner, is just a couple

hours drive from the capital.

In the Istrian interior you'll find a thickly forested landscape of rolling hills and family

farms. Istria is dotted with picturesque hill towns, striped with vineyards, and busy with

hard-working farmers.

Dramatically situated high above the vineyards, Motovun is Istria's most popular hill town.

Its modest main square is the only flat place in town - ideal for budding soccer stars.

The church's crenellated tower is a reminder that these towns were built on hilltops not

for the view but for protection. But today, strolling the ramparts, it's clear: the panorama

is a big part of the town's appeal. As the day ends, the square is made to order for

al fresco dining.

I find that, sometimes, the best experiences don't come to you...you need to find them.

An after dinner stroll with a sense of curiosity gets me a seat at the rehearsal of the local

klapa group.

(A capella choir singing.)

A short drive to the coast takes us to Rovinj - my favorite stop between Dubrovnik and Venice.

The town rises dramatically from the Adriatic - as if being pulled up to heaven by its grand

bell tower.

The church that crowns Rovinj is dedicated to the 4th century martyr St. Euphemia - her

statue functions as a weather vane. Scaling the church bell tower's creaky wooden stairway

requires an enduring faith in the reliability of wood. From the top is a commanding view...and,

if you're here at high noon, an ear-splitting memory.