Subtitles section Play video Print subtitles Hi, I'm Rick Steves, enjoying more of the best of Europe. And this time, we're exploring Italy's dramatic Amalfi Coast area, and somewhere along here, we're going to find a blue grotto. Thanks for joining us. Just south of Naples are some of Italy's most appreciated attractions. Along a breathtaking coastline, you'll find trendy resort towns, ancient ruins, and enchanting island getaways. Long the haunt of celebrities, the allure of Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast is still a hit with travelers today. We'll start with the southern Italian charms of Sorrento, taste traditional Italian food with a playful flair, drive along the dramatic Amalfi Coast, enjoying its cliffside towns, and we'll stroll in the shadow of Greek temples at Paestum and take a cruise to the seductive Isle of Capri, with its romantic Blue Grotto. In the south of Europe, Italy juts into the Mediterranean sea. The coast stretching south of Naples is filled with temptations. From our home base in Sorrento, we explore the Amalfi Coast, stopping in the towns of Positano and Amalfi. After visiting the temples at Paestum, we sail to the Isle of Capri. Wedged on a ledge under the mountains and over the sea, spritzed by lemon and orange groves, Sorrento is an attractive resort town of 20,000 residents, and in the summer, as many tourists. Serene Sorrento is well located, both as a springboard for regional sightseeing and as a fine place to simply stay and stroll. While just an hour south of wild and crazy Naples, the Sorrentines have gone out of their way to create a completely safe and genteel place for tourists to come, relax, and enjoy spending their money. While the town's hot and mobbed with tourists during the summer, we're here in mid-April. The weather's comfortable, and most of those enjoying the fun in the Sorrento sun are locals. Sorrento goes back to Ancient Greek times. In fact, the word "Sorrento" comes from the Greek word for "siren." On his legendary Odyssey, Ulysses sailed by and he overcame the treacherous lure of the seductive sirens. In doing so, he opened up this region to colonization. To the ancient Greeks, places like Sorrento were the wild, wild West. The town's original Greek street plan survives running east-west for the most sunlight and north-south for the prevailing and cooling breeze. While the breeze is welcome in the summer, even in ancient times, documents report of locals complaining about the cold winter wind. Sorrento's back streets give a peek at both its long history and rich culture. This 13th-century palace recalls a rough-and-tumble age. It had no balconies for security reasons. Tiny shrines decorate walls throughout southern Italy. The Catholic faithful pray to Mary in the hopes that she'll advocate for them up in heaven. Italians venerate Mary, and Italian men also venerate their mothers. Even so, Italian men have built into their lives women-free zones. Here at the Sorrento Men's Club, men -- and only men -- play cards and gossip under a historic emblem of the city and a frescoed 16th-century dome. While originally a place where the town's nobles met, today, this is the club for working-class guys. Strictly no women, and no telephones either. From the old center, an ancient lane zigzags down to the Marina Grande, Sorrento's historic harbor. Just before reaching the harbor, you pass through an Ancient Greek gate, a reminder that Marina Grande was always a separate town with its own proud residents. It's said even their cats look different. Sorrentines believe that, because this section of town was locked outside the fortified wall during pirate raids, Marina Grande dwellers descend from Saracen, or Turkish pirate, stock. Sorrentines still scare their children by saying, "Behave, or the Turks will take you away." Today, there's just not much very menacing about the "Turks" of Marina Grande. [ Speaking Italian ] The port's economy is still based on its colorful fishing fleet, and more recently, its many seafood restaurants. The family-run Ristorante Delfino gets its seafood right off the fisherman's boat. Enticing dishes are served with enthusiasm to hungry locals right on the pier. Salute. Salute, signore. Steves: Around here, lemons are everywhere. Every other shop is lemon yellow. Stores bottle their own citrus treats, and they're generous with samples. When it comes to fruit stands in Sorrento, pucker up. On the Amalfi Coast, there is always something to learn in this land where there's more to lemons than lemonade. In Sorrento, there's lemons everywhere. Tell me about your lemons. These are typical lemons of Sorrento, okay? That's... [ Speaking Italian ] Is the fur. Oh, that's nice. With this, we make limoncello. I can smell the limoncello. Yes. Okay, what's the big one? This big one is Cedro. This we heat with extra-virgin olive oil and salt near the fish. So with the dinner, with the fish? Yes. Yes. Very nice. Thank you. Grazie. Bye-bye. Ciao. Ciao. Steves: Surprising visitors, right in the town center, is an inviting lemon grove. An abundant orchard provides locals and tourists alike with a fragrant and peaceful stroll. At the rustic shop, cap your visit with a taste of the region's favorite liqueur, limoncello. While there are plenty of beaches near Sorrento, many hotels offer travelers an attractive alternative. Our Hotel Minerva is like a sun worshipper's temple, with a spectacular terrace commanding Mediterranean views, and a small, cliff-hanging swimming pool. This place provides all I look for -- an efficient lobby and inviting lounge, and a simple room with a good bed and great view. During the peak season, many resort hotels require half-pension. That means you must buy either lunch or dinner there. It's a reasonable policy, designed to keep the hotel restaurants busy, but I prefer a hotel like this one, one that leaves meals optional so I'm free to go out and find whatever restaurant I like. And tonight, that restaurant is Il Buco. Once the cellar of an old monastery, today, it's a small, dressy restaurant serving delightfully presented, top-quality food. They showcase good wine and offer elegant service. In the state-of-the-art kitchen, the chefs pride themselves on taking a playful attitude towards traditional Italian dishes. In my guidebooks, I strive to list places with hands-on ownership. Il Buco's owner, Peppe, designs his menu around whatever's fresh, and he lovingly explains each course to his guests. Peppe: Generally, it's the spaghetti vongole, but we want to play with the tradition. We make a little distraction on this plate with some pasta and clams the other side. Just forgive the idea