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  • Hi, I'm Rick Steves,

  • enjoying more of the best of Europe.

  • And this time,

  • we're exploring Italy's dramatic Amalfi Coast area,

  • and somewhere along here,

  • we're going to find a blue grotto.

  • Thanks for joining us.

  • Just south of Naples

  • are some of Italy's most appreciated attractions.

  • Along a breathtaking coastline, you'll find trendy resort towns,

  • ancient ruins, and enchanting island getaways.

  • Long the haunt of celebrities,

  • the allure of Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast

  • is still a hit with travelers today.

  • We'll start with the southern Italian charms of Sorrento,

  • taste traditional Italian food

  • with a playful flair,

  • drive along the dramatic Amalfi Coast,

  • enjoying its cliffside towns,

  • and we'll stroll in the shadow of Greek temples at Paestum

  • and take a cruise to the seductive Isle of Capri,

  • with its romantic Blue Grotto.

  • In the south of Europe,

  • Italy juts into the Mediterranean sea.

  • The coast stretching south of Naples

  • is filled with temptations.

  • From our home base in Sorrento, we explore the Amalfi Coast,

  • stopping in the towns of Positano and Amalfi.

  • After visiting the temples at Paestum,

  • we sail to the Isle of Capri.

  • Wedged on a ledge

  • under the mountains and over the sea,

  • spritzed by lemon and orange groves,

  • Sorrento is an attractive resort town

  • of 20,000 residents, and in the summer,

  • as many tourists.

  • Serene Sorrento is well located,

  • both as a springboard for regional sightseeing

  • and as a fine place to simply stay and stroll.

  • While just an hour south of wild and crazy Naples,

  • the Sorrentines have gone out of their way

  • to create a completely safe and genteel place

  • for tourists to come, relax, and enjoy spending their money.

  • While the town's hot

  • and mobbed with tourists during the summer,

  • we're here in mid-April.

  • The weather's comfortable,

  • and most of those enjoying the fun in the Sorrento sun

  • are locals.

  • Sorrento goes back to Ancient Greek times.

  • In fact, the word "Sorrento"

  • comes from the Greek word for "siren."

  • On his legendary Odyssey, Ulysses sailed by

  • and he overcame the treacherous lure

  • of the seductive sirens.

  • In doing so, he opened up this region to colonization.

  • To the ancient Greeks,

  • places like Sorrento were the wild, wild West.

  • The town's original Greek street plan survives

  • running east-west for the most sunlight

  • and north-south

  • for the prevailing and cooling breeze.

  • While the breeze is welcome in the summer,

  • even in ancient times, documents report

  • of locals complaining about the cold winter wind.

  • Sorrento's back streets give a peek

  • at both its long history and rich culture.

  • This 13th-century palace recalls a rough-and-tumble age.

  • It had no balconies for security reasons.

  • Tiny shrines decorate walls throughout southern Italy.

  • The Catholic faithful pray to Mary

  • in the hopes that she'll advocate for them up in heaven.

  • Italians venerate Mary,

  • and Italian men also venerate their mothers.

  • Even so, Italian men have built into their lives

  • women-free zones.

  • Here at the Sorrento Men's Club, men -- and only men --

  • play cards and gossip

  • under a historic emblem of the city

  • and a frescoed 16th-century dome.

  • While originally a place where the town's nobles met,

  • today, this is the club for working-class guys.

  • Strictly no women, and no telephones either.

  • From the old center, an ancient lane zigzags down

  • to the Marina Grande, Sorrento's historic harbor.

  • Just before reaching the harbor,

  • you pass through an Ancient Greek gate,

  • a reminder that Marina Grande was always a separate town

  • with its own proud residents.

  • It's said even their cats look different.

  • Sorrentines believe that, because this section of town

  • was locked outside the fortified wall during pirate raids,

  • Marina Grande dwellers

  • descend from Saracen, or Turkish pirate, stock.

  • Sorrentines still scare their children by saying,

  • "Behave, or the Turks will take you away."

  • Today, there's just not much very menacing

  • about the "Turks" of Marina Grande.

  • [ Speaking Italian ]

  • The port's economy is still based

  • on its colorful fishing fleet,

  • and more recently, its many seafood restaurants.

  • The family-run Ristorante Delfino

  • gets its seafood right off the fisherman's boat.

  • Enticing dishes are served with enthusiasm

  • to hungry locals right on the pier.

  • Salute. Salute, signore.

  • Steves: Around here,

  • lemons are everywhere.

  • Every other shop is lemon yellow.

  • Stores bottle their own citrus treats,

  • and they're generous

  • with samples.

  • When it comes to fruit stands in Sorrento, pucker up.

  • On the Amalfi Coast,

  • there is always something to learn

  • in this land where there's more to lemons than lemonade.

  • In Sorrento, there's lemons everywhere.

  • Tell me about your lemons.

  • These are typical lemons of Sorrento, okay?

  • That's... [ Speaking Italian ]

  • Is the fur.

  • Oh, that's nice.

  • With this, we make limoncello.

  • I can smell the limoncello. Yes.

  • Okay, what's the big one?

  • This big one is Cedro.

  • This we heat with extra-virgin olive oil

  • and salt near the fish.

  • So with the dinner, with the fish?

  • Yes. Yes.

  • Very nice. Thank you. Grazie.

  • Bye-bye.

  • Ciao. Ciao.

  • Steves: Surprising visitors, right in the town center,

  • is an inviting lemon grove.

  • An abundant orchard provides locals and tourists alike

  • with a fragrant and peaceful stroll.

  • At the rustic shop,

  • cap your visit with a taste of the region's favorite liqueur,

  • limoncello.

  • While there are plenty of beaches near Sorrento,

  • many hotels offer travelers an attractive alternative.

  • Our Hotel Minerva is like a sun worshipper's temple,

  • with a spectacular terrace commanding Mediterranean views,

  • and a small, cliff-hanging swimming pool.

  • This place provides all I look for --

  • an efficient lobby

  • and inviting lounge,

  • and a simple room with a good bed

  • and great view.

  • During the peak season,

  • many resort hotels require half-pension.

  • That means you must buy either lunch or dinner there.

  • It's a reasonable policy,

  • designed to keep the hotel restaurants busy,

  • but I prefer a hotel like this one,

  • one that leaves meals optional

  • so I'm free to go out and find whatever restaurant I like.

  • And tonight, that restaurant is Il Buco.

  • Once the cellar of an old monastery,

  • today, it's a small, dressy restaurant

  • serving delightfully presented, top-quality food.

  • They showcase good wine and offer elegant service.

  • In the state-of-the-art kitchen,

  • the chefs pride themselves on taking a playful attitude

  • towards traditional Italian dishes.

  • In my guidebooks,

  • I strive to list places with hands-on ownership.

  • Il Buco's owner, Peppe,

  • designs his menu around whatever's fresh,

  • and he lovingly explains each course to his guests.

  • Peppe: Generally, it's the spaghetti vongole,

  • but we want to play with the tradition.

  • We make a little distraction on this plate

  • with some pasta and clams the other side.

  • Just forgive the idea