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  • Hey guys, ChrisFix here and today i'm

  • going to show you how to replace your

  • brake pads and rotors on your car or

  • your truck. And we'll be replacing the

  • brake pads on my mustang which is

  • perfect, because the brake setup on this

  • car is going to be similar, if not

  • identical, to most other makes and models.

  • And this video is going to be a complete

  • guide so if you're a beginner and you've

  • never changed the brakes before, after

  • watching this video you'll know

  • everything you need to do to be able to

  • replace the brakes yourself. This is also

  • a good guide for a refresher if you've

  • done brakes before or if you're an

  • expert.

  • I'm gonna be including tips and tricks

  • to anyone watching could perform a

  • complete and thorough brake job. And the

  • last thing i want to say for everybody

  • who's doing this for the first time,

  • don't be afraid to change your own

  • breaks! I know the most nerve-racking

  • thing is the fear that if you do

  • something wrong you're not gonna have

  • brakes to stop your car, but let me tell

  • you. The brake systems on cars are

  • actually pretty simple and it's hard to

  • mess up, so give it a shot. You're going

  • to save a ton of money, you're going to

  • learn something new and you're going to

  • feel proud that you're able to fix your

  • own car. And before we begin I want to

  • thank Advanced Auto for helping out and

  • supplying the brake pads and rotors for

  • the video. Alright! So let's begin.

  • The tools I'll be using for this job are all

  • common hand tools. You need a simple

  • socket set, a breaker bar, a torque wrench,

  • a metal wire brush, and the only

  • specialized tool is this brake piston

  • compressor which is inexpensive and you

  • can pick this up when you pick up your

  • brake pads and rotors. And i also want to

  • include: have a large hammer like this

  • which will help knock the rotors off if

  • they're stuck. And also have a pry bar or

  • flat head screwdriver like this which

  • will help pry open the caliper. You're

  • also going to need to get your tires off

  • the ground, so i'll be using a jack and

  • jack stands. And those are all the tools

  • you're going to need. As for consumables

  • you're gonna need some copper anti-seize,

  • silicon paste, brake cleaner and thread

  • locker. And finally you'll need some

  • brake pads and rotors. I prefer getting

  • ceramic brake pads, they are a little

  • more expensive but they have less dust

  • and they tend to last longer compared to

  • the semi-metallic pads. And make sure

  • when you get your brake pads

  • it includes the brake hardware which is

  • important for doing the complete brake

  • job. And for rotors i like using a

  • regular blank rotor. While drilled and

  • slotted rotors are nice they will eat up

  • your brake pads a lot quicker so for the

  • street this is perfect. And that's all

  • you need, so let's begin!!

  • There are four simple steps to changing

  • your brake pads and rotors.

  • First you want to safely lift

  • the car off the ground and then remove

  • the wheel. Second remove the brake pads

  • unbolt the caliper and remove the rotor.

  • Third put the new rotor on, reattach the

  • caliper and install the new brake pads.

  • And then fourth, put the wheel on, lower

  • the car to the ground and go test those brakes.

  • So let's get started!

  • Since we're replacing the front brakes,

  • the first thing you're going to want to

  • do is lift the front end off the ground,

  • but before we do that, you're going to

  • want to grab your wheel chock, in this

  • case i'm using a piece of wood, and

  • chock off the rear wheel so your car

  • won't move. And before we left the tires

  • off the ground we want to crack all the

  • lug nuts so they're loose, because if

  • you're trying to do this with the tires

  • off the ground, the wheels just gonna

  • spin. If you're not sure where to jack up

  • your car from, go check out the owners

  • manual. In here they give you

  • instructions and show you exactly where

  • they recommend you jack the car up from.

  • Since you replace brake pads in pairs,

  • we're gonna be doing both front brake

  • pads, so I like jacking the car from the

  • middle so both tires raise up at the

  • same time. And the best way to lift up

  • both front tires is by jacking it up

  • from the front crossmember. This is a

  • thick piece of metal and supports the

  • whole front suspension. And with the car

  • in the air

  • slide your jack stand underneath the car

  • and I try to just stick my arms

  • underneath the car when i moved the jack

  • stand. Don't put your whole body under

  • the car. You don't want to be under the

  • car until the car is securely set onto

  • the jack stands. Now we're looking for a

  • place to put your jack stands.

  • This right here is the floorboard. If you

  • put it here, your jack will go right

  • through the floor into your car. What

  • you're looking for, is you want to find a

  • thick piece of metal frame just like

  • this right here and you can find the

  • same exact spot on the other side. And

  • after both jack stands are in place

  • slowly lower the car down so that the

  • jack stands securely support the car. And

  • just add some backup,

  • I like to set up the jack so there's

  • some light pressure on that cross member.

  • And the last thing I like to do is give

  • the car a good shake and make sure that

  • it's stable and doesn't move. And with

  • the car safely lifted off the ground we

  • could remove the lug nuts and remove the

  • wheel. And another thing I like to do for

  • extra safety is slide that wheel

  • underneath the frame. That way in

  • worst-case scenario you have something

  • solid there and the car won't drop all

  • the way down.

  • Alright! So now we have access to our

  • brakes so now we want to remove the old

  • brake pads and our old rotor and in

  • order to do that we need to get access

  • to the bolt behind the caliper here. But

  • we want to work with the car

  • and make the job that much easier. So get

  • in the car and turn the steering wheel

  • so the bolts to the caliper are more

  • accessible. And now it's that much easier

  • to get to the bolts. The first thing

  • we're going to do is we're going to

  • remove the brake pads and in order to do

  • that we're going to go and remove this

  • bolt right down here which is going to

  • allow our caliper to pivot upward like a

  • clamshell. Then we could pull the pads out.

  • Normally these bolts use a regular

  • socket but in this case we have a torx

  • bolt, so we're using a T50 torx. And I

  • start off with a breaker bar every time

  • just so you can break these bolts loose

  • easily. And then once you use your

  • breaker bar to break the bolt loose, you

  • can use a regular ratchet to loosen it

  • up the rest of the way and it'll come

  • right out. And you can see the blue

  • loctite on the thread so we'll be sure

  • to add some when we screw this in later on

  • Now we could pry open our caliper which

  • might take a little force, and then

  • remove our old brake pads and they'll

  • come right out just like that.

  • So for this brake caliper we just had to

  • remove that one bolt right down here, but

  • on other brake calipers there's also

  • another bolt right up here that you

  • could remove to take this whole

  • clamshell off. In this case all you have

  • to do is lift this up like that and the

  • caliper slides right out. And with the

  • caliper removed you don't want the

  • caliper to just dangle by the brake line

  • because that's how you damage your brake

  • line. So, instead, you want to try to find

  • a place to put your caliper where it's out

  • of the way and there's no pressure on

  • the brake line. If you don't have a nice

  • place to leave the brake caliper like that

  • you could also use a bungee cord or rope

  • or something to hang it up. All right!

  • Next, we want to remove this caliper

  • bracket so we could pull the old brake

  • rotor off, and to remove the caliper

  • bracket we want to go behind the knuckle

  • and you can see there's a bolt right up

  • here and a bolt right down here holding

  • this bracket in, that we need to remove,

  • In this case it's a 15mm bolt,

  • and again start off with your breaker

  • bar so you can easily break these loose.

  • These are going to be the tightest bolts,

  • so they're going to be the toughest to

  • break loose and again after we're done

  • cracking the bolts loose with our

  • breaker bar, we could loosen them the

  • rest of the way with are shorter ratchet.

  • And that's one and that will remove the

  • bottom with no bolts holding it in, the

  • caliper bracket slides right out.

  • Now we're going to remove the brake

  • rotor and you want to make sure that the

  • brake rotor isn't being held in by a

  • screw. In this case there's nothing

  • holding it in,

  • so you could try wiggling it off but

  • just as i figured it's rusted to the hub.

  • So to remove the rotor we're going to be

  • using a large hammer and you want to use

  • a pretty good amount of

  • force and hit the outside edge of the

  • rotor spinning the rotor as you go, until

  • it breaks loose.

  • Just like that. And if you take a look at the

  • back of the rotor you could see it's all

  • rusty in here, which just rust wields

  • itself right to the hub. Now with our old

  • rotor off we want this surface right

  • here to be smooth and relatively

  • rust-free. Doesn't have to be perfect but

  • we want a good flat surface, so grab your

  • metal wire brush or sandpaper and start

  • removing the rust from the hub surface.

  • It's also a good idea to use eye

  • protection and a dust mask while you're

  • doing this. You want to have a smooth

  • surface for your new brake rotor, so come

  • out flush against the hub. And after we

  • sand the whole surface we want to grab a

  • bucket, grab our brake cleaner and spray

  • it down. And since we're cleaning things

  • up, now's a good time to clean up our

  • caliper bracket. Awesome! With everything

  • sanded down we could add our new brakes.

  • But you guys know how I like to go over

  • the top with my cars, so I cleaned up the

  • suspension a little bit, so i just

  • removed all the grease,

  • i sanded it down, used a little bit of

  • primer and then used black spray paint to

  • get this looking real nice, and you guys

  • definitely don't have to spray paint

  • your whole suspension, but you want to

  • just make sure that your hub surface is

  • completely smooth, so that we could

  • install our new brake rotor. And before

  • you go and install your brake rotor, one

  • thing that they do with brake rotors is

  • they put this oily film on here so that

  • the brake rotors won't rust when they're

  • all packaged inside the box. So what you

  • do is you get a little bit of brake

  • clean and just spray down the entire

  • surface of the rotor and then wipe it

  • down with a paper towel. And you could

  • see all the oils that are getting

  • removed from that rotor surface. And

  • don't forget to do the other side as

  • well! Wipe it clean and again look at all

  • the oils removed. Good, now we can install

  • our rotor and you'll see that the rotor

  • tends to want to fall off, so a little

  • trick to hold it in place is to use a

  • lug nut and just thread it all the way

  • on, so it prevents the rotor from moving

  • while you install the rest of the brakes.

  • With the rotor securely in place, now we

  • can install our caliper bracket which is

  • held in with these two bolts, and we want

  • to add some medium strength thread locker

  • to prevent vibrations from loosening up

  • the bolts as we drive. Now we could take

  • a bolt and align our caliper bracket and

  • tighten the bolt by hand and we'll do

  • the same thing with the second bolt and

  • hand tighten that all the way down.

  • Good! Now grab your

  • torque wrench and on this car the

  • caliper bracket bolts get torqued down

  • to 90 pound feet. That's one and that's

  • the other. With our caliper bracket in

  • place, now we want to grab our caliper

  • and we need to compress this piston all

  • the way back into the caliper, so our new

  • thick brake pads will fit in here. And a

  • quick tip is before you go and compress

  • this piston into the caliper, we want to

  • remove all the acidic brake dust and all

  • the dirt and grime here, because we don't

  • want that stuff to find its way into the

  • caliper and contaminate the brake fluid

  • and damage the seals. Now you don't want

  • to spray the brake clean directly onto

  • here because there's a rubber seal right

  • back here and brake clean will dry out

  • that seal. So instead just spray it onto a

  • towel and clean off that piston. and that

  • simple trick will prolong the life of

  • your caliper. Now we could compress the

  • piston and to compress the piston just

  • get one of the old brake pads, put it up

  • against the piston and then get your

  • brake piston compressor tool, slide it in

  • there and start turning it. And you can

  • watch the brake piston compress right

  • back into the caliper. This should feel

  • nice and smooth. It shouldn't be

  • difficult to do and once it starts

  • getting difficult to turn, that means you

  • bottomed out here so loosen it up and

  • remove the tool and break pad. now there

  • are some pistons that are solid and have

  • a cross in them, and these pistons need

  • to be turned to compress. And they make

  • an inexpensive tool for that. This is

  • most common on the rear brakes but i

  • just wanted to show you in case you

  • encounter this. So with our piston

  • compressed, now's a good time to add our

  • new brake hardware. For this caliper we

  • only have one break clip that goes right

  • there, so i'm just going to use a

  • screwdriver and pop this out. And the old

  • one was oriented like that, so we'll

  • install our new one in the exact same

  • orientation. Good! With the piston

  • compressed, our break clip in, and our

  • caliper bracket on, we're ready to

  • install our brake pads. But before we do

  • that, we need to lubricate the brake

  • system. And to do that we're going to be

  • using a copper-based anti-sieze. Not the

  • typical silver graphite based anti-sieze. So the

  • first area of lubrication is right here

  • at the brake caliper bracket. Right where

  • the brake padding guide meets up here

  • and down here we want to add some

  • anti-seize. So be careful, just add a

  • little bit right down here and right up

  • here. And it makes sense to have some

  • type of lubrication here so you don't

  • have metal-to-metal contact with no lubricant.

  • Because this does have to slide back and

  • forth as the brakes get used. And then on

  • the other side of the caliper you have the

  • identical spots where the brake pad sit

  • in that you also want to lubricate. It's

  • also important to lubricate the brake

  • hardware. So just get a little copper

  • anti-sieze and lubricate the top of the brake

  • hardware. And the last place to add a

  • thin layer of anti-seize is on the back

  • of the brake pad which helps prevent

  • squeaks. And that's everything you need

  • to lubricate. And right now your hands

  • are gonna be covered in anti-sieze so it's

  • important that you clean them off or get

  • new gloves, because you don't want to get

  • the anti-seize on the brake pad surface

  • or the rotor, which could cause your

  • brakes to fail.

  • Alright! So let's install our brake pads

  • and if you guys are wondering what these

  • stripes were on the brake pads, that's

  • actually burnishing compound to help

  • break the brake pads in. And it's really

  • this easy, the brake pads just slide

  • right in just like that. They won't fit

  • in properly if you put them in backwards

  • and that's what I mean before, when I was

  • saying it's really easy to install

  • brakes, it's really hard to mess this up.

  • Now the caliper slides on something

  • called caliper guide pins which is this

  • right here. You want this to be smooth,

  • rust-free and lubricated really well so

  • the caliper can move freely. So clean it

  • up with some brake clean. And now you're

  • gonna want to add some silicone paste

  • right to that caliper guide pin. Don't

  • use anti-sieze and don't use a petroleum

  • based lubricant, because those products

  • will degrade the rubber on the caliper.

  • Silicone is the proper lubricant to use

  • for the guide pins. And this is how one

  • set up for the guide pins looks. In other

  • cars, like this Honda, the guide pins are

  • built into the caliper which are just

  • like bolts that you slide out, clean off

  • lubricate, and then push back in. You want

  • to make sure that the guide pins move

  • freely. In this case the caliper slides

  • over the guide pin and then you close

  • the caliper over the brake pads like so.

  • And now we're going to install our bolt,

  • but if you remember we saw some blue

  • loctite on the end here, so i'm going to

  • add a little bit of blue loctite on the

  • end, and tighten our bolt up. Now this

  • bolt gets torque down to 25 pound feet

  • of torque. Then we can turn the steering

  • wheel straight so we can more easily put

  • the wheel back on, and don't forget to

  • remove that ;ug nut you had on there

  • to hold the rotor in place. Then you can

  • put the wheels on your car and hand

  • tighten all your lug nuts. And we are

  • almost done! Now go do your brakes on the

  • other side and then after you finish the

  • other side, remove the jack stands

  • and slowly lower the car so the tires

  • are just touching the ground, so they

  • won't spin when you go to torque them. Now

  • you want to torque down your lug nuts in a

  • star pattern so the wheel tightens evenly.

  • Most wheels are torqued between 80 and

  • 100 pound feet and in this case I'm

  • torquing them to a 100. With the

  • wheels torqued, let the full weight of the

  • car on the wheels and remove the jack.

  • And that's all there is to replacing

  • your brake pads and rotors. There's one

  • more thing we need to do inside the car

  • and that's start up the car, then you want

  • to pump the brakes a few times.

  • Don't worry, you're not gonna have any

  • brake pressure the first few pumps but

  • then the pressure buildup and the pedal

  • should feel hard. And that's all there is to it.

  • So now after watching this, you'll be

  • able to change your own brakes, so go out

  • there and give it a try. And if you do

  • change your brakes after watching this

  • video, let me know in the comments below.

  • As always, hopefully the video was

  • helpful and if you're not a subscriber

  • consider subscribing for more how-to

  • videos just like this, and finally the

  • products i used in this video are linked

  • in the description

Hey guys, ChrisFix here and today i'm

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