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  • Graphic , Hey guy's we're on day two now

  • of the repair and we went ahead and let this dry for a full 24 hours

  • so we just removed it from our drying rack, we're gonna go ahead now and

  • take our clamp off, that's where we know we finished the job. If you happen to use

  • a tape or another type of clamp, we're just going to go ahead and remove that

  • the main objective here is just to hold the compression tape so that it doesn't move

  • as your compressing it. And it doesn't unwind itself, that's all.

  • Start removing it. So you can see that

  • our tape actually broke a little bit while we're taking it out so

  • this is a common thing that happens with this tape sometimes because

  • it's so

  • brittle it cracks when it's under high compression like that

  • so I'm just going to go in with a little razor blade here and pop that back out

  • it's not usually too big of a deal

  • When you do this just make sure you get all of it

  • sometimes you'll miss like a little section of it and then I'll actually it won't lay

  • won't come all out properly

  • Another little trick here is you want to basically put perpendicular force

  • when you're unwrapping

  • so you just want to keep this nice and taut, so that when you pull up it actually pulls up

  • all of the fiber. But everything looks really good we've got a nice seam

  • on the bottom here where the carbon came back together

  • it looks solid and we can go ahead now and

  • just really simply give it a

  • little squeeze and to make sure that everything hardened, and it did, it's solid

  • and we can just do a quick little coin test here

  • there's no dead spot, I mean, the pitch changes slightly but

  • it's not, we're not seeing that drastic

  • change that we did before so we know it's a pretty solid structure

  • We now went ahead and unwrapped everything, so we're just going to go ahead and

  • sand it. In this case I'm starting just

  • a very little bit of some of our 120 that's left over, I'm going to come in here and just kinda

  • just get some of the big stuff out real quick and then I'll come in with the 220

  • and then finish this off with the 320 .

  • One of the things to make sure, like to talk about before, making sure the area is nice

  • and wet. You don't wanna this dry, you don't want to get the carbon air born. Trying to keep this

  • nice and clean it also let's the sandpaper last a lot longer.

  • So again, like I showed you guys before, just going to give it a couple little sprays here

  • and then spray the sandpaper

  • and that's it. We're ready to go ahead and start sanding

  • We're also gonna go ahead now and

  • flip this over so we can get the bottom side nicely

  • and I'm probably just about done now

  • with my 120. It's not perfectly smooth but it's pretty darn close

  • I'm now we're gonna come in with our 220 in a minute

  • here, once I get this little roughness out of the bottom

  • done well and then we'll smooth this out for the final ... Once we

  • do that, once we get this 120 and get this little area in here cleaned up

  • just a little bit of left over epoxy and stuff, we'll go ahead and do it with the 220

  • and then we're gonna go ahead and unwrap this area and clean up any of the excess

  • material around it

  • to make sure you got a nice clean repair area and we're ready for finish. The sides look pretty good

  • here

  • we can see there's a little bit of carbon that's going up over that electrical

  • tape area

  • and that's fine it's not gonna stick to it very well so once we unwrap it

  • we'll clean up that edges and that's what we're gonna use that

  • 320 for , we might touch it with a little bit of 220...and if you did this all right

  • this sanding area, you should be able to do in about 10 to 15 minutes of

  • sanding. It shouldn't be too much, if you're needing to do any more than that

  • and you're ruining, you're taking off too much of the repair area you

  • are gonna have to rewrap it and do it again and just

  • the more you do it you know the better you get at this and the better prep work

  • you do

  • the better your finish is gonna come out....So we're gonna go ahead and unwrap this

  • now...I just like to wipe this thing down a little bit, just so that we don't get

  • splatter mess everywhere

  • that's a good sign, we actually don't have any epoxy that came through the top layer

  • which is awesome. You don't really need to double wrap it the way I do, I

  • just do it because every now and then epoxy can get through

  • We typically at the shop, when we do

  • repairs, we're vacuum bagging, so we don't really have these problems

  • but at home most you don't have a full vacuum setup

  • so it's a lot more difficult. This is a really good

  • setup at home, or someone starting out and actually get

  • real good quality results with

  • a pretty simple toolset. So you can see here there's a little bit of

  • taping residue that's still on here, but we're gonna go ahead and be able to remove

  • this no problem

  • so again we're just gonna wet the area a little bit

  • go ahead and wet the sandpaper a little bit, it's also sometimes an easy way to clear out your sandpaper

  • By just spraying it

  • It'll actually clear out the paper so you can use that same piece for a lot longer

  • Now we're trying

  • to focus a little more on the ends here where we had that tape line

  • just to make sure that you have it nice and smooth...we're gonna sand out all that

  • decals there. And then the only other thing that we're gonna have to

  • deal with here is just removing all these decals now this is where you're

  • start getting into

  • the overlap of the finish and the sanding here

  • The repair itself is done, it looks pretty smooth

  • if your gonna send this out to a painter have a painter do this for you

  • to do the final finish work your gonna want to sand this down with the

  • 320 and get all the little imperfections out

  • just have a nice smooth surface and they'll be ready to go ahead

  • most painters here can actually recreate this decal on the seat tube for you pretty easily

  • so we're done now ready to finish

  • There you go

  • We've now gone ahead an finished the repair. We've also done our final sanding

  • on the job. We've gone ahead and unwrapped the entire frame

  • and we can take a closer look at what the bike looks like now and come up with all of our finishing options

  • In this particular case, we could easily remove the entire decal

  • and clear coat it and it'd look pretty good. We probably wouldn't really notice anything

  • wrong

  • with the bike. You could also go ahead and have a painter recreate this

  • decal for you in paint and paint the whole frame and then clear it.

  • You could also have a vinyl shop possibly just make the decal

  • for you and then clear it. That would look pretty good. The

  • last option you have, is if you don't have the ability to clear coat

  • yourself, you can grab a piece of vinyl and basically just cover this up

  • with some black vinyl

  • you probably wouldn't really notice it too badly with the front deraillur and everything

  • being here, put a bottle cage on it. You probably wouldn't notice it too bad.

  • You want to make sure that you always cover the repair

  • area with something, you want to protect it from the UV rays

  • In our case, we have used a UV stable epoxy, but we're not quite sure what Giant's used in

  • the past. They could've used something that wasn't UV stable

  • They probably have, and it's probably just fine ...but

  • you wanna make sure, so we will usually recommend to do a

  • UV stable clear coat, which any automotive clear coat is,

  • or by using a piece of vinyl, if you use vinyl make sure it's

  • always covered. Now we've gone ahead and gone over all the finishing options, one of the things to clarify

  • between doing an

  • at-home repair and having a professional, like Predator Cycling

  • repair it for you, is we're gonna use a couple different procedures

  • At our shop here, we use vacuums to do all of our repairs

  • And that allows us to get even better than the compression tape

  • on the adhesion to the repair and to make sure we get all of the epoxy out

  • You really get just a little better finish on there

  • and you get a little bit smoother finish. We're also using a couple different tools here that we don't

  • talk about. This kit and these videos are gears towards

  • at-home repair and we're trying to use the tools and procedures

  • that you can do at home with everything that you have in your garage

  • The other thing to mention here is that

  • at Predator, we only offer two finishing options. We do a standard clear coat

  • which would basically be, at this point we clean the graphics up and clear coat

  • the other option that we offer is a matched finish

  • and the match finish, we'd either do a vinyl decal and clear

  • or have it painted and cleared. We don't offer a vinyl coat

  • covering. The reason we do that is, we're not sure that

  • a customer will not take that vinyl protective

  • sheet off, we want to make sure that it's fully protected and it's

  • UV stable. We use the top-of-the-line automotive clear coats

  • here to be completely UV stable and we also use

  • top-of-the-line vinyls here so you get really nice, thin crisp edges

  • As you can see our DIY kit includes all the needed supplies and materials

  • to do an at-home carbon repair . With the proper materials and instructions you can be on your

  • next ride even faster than before

  • For anything that's a larger more complicated repair

  • please don't hesitate to reach out Predator Cycling, one of our technicians will be

  • happy to assist you with a quote. Please visit us at our site

  • to see our latest custom carbon builds, as well as our custom carbon components and our shop apparel

  • also check out our custom carbon accessories

  • such as the Razorback 2.0, which is our carbon fiber

  • race number holder, for road racers and triathletes alike

  • Thanks for watching and we'll catch you next time. If you like the video

  • you can go ahead and click on subscribe button here and you can get all of our

  • latest videos

  • if you missed any part of the DIY carbon repair video series you can catch both

  • part 1 and part 2 here

  • guys thanks again for watching

  • Graphic

Graphic , Hey guy's we're on day two now

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