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  • PRACTITIONER: This morning, Lisa has got Lyn in for a shampoo and set.

  • Becky you've got Valerie in for a….

  • COMMENTARY: Vicky is the educational lead

  • for an independent training provider, specialising in hairdressing and beauty therapy.

  • She is briefing a group of level 2 and level 3 learners, prior to a busy day in the salon.

  • She is using this session to help learners make connections between the maths they have

  • learnt on the programme and their practice in the salon.

  • PRACTITIONER: Obviously, youll do your consultations yourself. The people doing cutting,

  • I want you to focus on what cuts youre doing, what degrees and angles youre using.

  • For the people doing colours, it will be your ratios of colours, what youre mixing the

  • levels of peroxide youre putting together. And then you all have to take your own bills.

  • COMMENTARY: The session will help reinforce some essential concepts in a practical setting.

  • It will also allow learners to reveal their current understanding and provide Vicky with

  • some opportunities for formative assessment.

  • PRACTITIONER: So youre doing your cut today. Tell me how face shapes would affect the choice

  • of cut and what were trying to achieve overall using a face shape.

  • LEARNER 1: We always do the cut depending

  • on the face shape, so it flatters the look of the client. So for example, if the face shape

  • was oval you’d do the cut more squared off just so it doesn’t emphasise the roundness of the face.

  • LEARNER 1: There’s four main different cuts. For example,

  • youve got your one length, which you pull straight down from the head causing no graduation

  • so youre cutting at zero degrees. This is a one length. So you cut straight

  • across. So there’s no graduation, no layering in there.

  • PRACTITIONER: So Becky, if were doing a one length cut, what angle are going to do it at?

  • LEARNER 2: Right down to nothing PRACTITIONER: So it’s zero degrees.

  • PRACTITIONER: So what are we doing today Nathan?

  • LEARNER 3: So what were doing is, we're just going to do a one length.

  • LEARNER 3: So were going to be taking off just all the ends.

  • PRACTITIONER: Yes, so weve got a one length cut.

  • So what angle are you going to hold the hair at?

  • LEARNER 3: Zerothat's just to get rid of any graduation.

  • PRACTITIONER: Zero degrees, removed graduation.

  • PRACTITIONER: So what kind of cut is it if were going to put layers into it?

  • LEARNER 4: It would be long grad PRACTITIONER: Long graduation

  • And what angle do you roughly hold the hair at for a long graduation?

  • LEARNER 4: About 125 to 135 PRACTITIONER: So, 125 to 135 degrees,

  • depending on the angle that you actually need.

  • LEARNER 1: Were doing a short graduation cut. So Diane likes it nice and tapered in

  • at the back, and then longer on the front to give it the height when it’s all dry,

  • but then shorter round the front again. And slightly over the ears, but not too much.

  • LEARNER 1: This one’s got layers in, so this one, it would be shorter here and

  • longer hereso it will fall over it. Whereas this one, it’s all one length.

  • PRACTITONER: Okay so were doing about an inch off altogether in the nape. So what angles

  • are we going to be using? LEARNER 1: Pull out at 90…

  • So this is your 90 degree, then your fingers would be angled at that 45.

  • PRACTITIONER: ...at 90 LEARNER 1: And then cut at 45.

  • LEARNER 1: You pull the hair out at 90 and then you cut at 45.

  • PRACTITIONER: Okay, so youre going to have to watch your angles as you come round here,

  • the two areas that you need to concentrate on are behind the ears

  • PRACTITIONER: I think we try our best to link practical and theory together, whether that’s

  • hairdressing or maths. Because as a group, if we stereotype, hairdressers are practical

  • people. So they want to be in that environment learning, so we always try and bring theory

  • into the practical room wherever possible. Youve got to link it in to make it interesting

  • to them and make them understand where it fits in.

  • PRACTITIONER: And how much are you taking off? LEARNER 3: 2, 2 and a half inch

  • PRACTITIONER: When we teach them we teach inches and centimetres.

  • When were talking about cuts, strangely enough it always seems to be

  • that clients and students, even the younger ones, talk about inches with cutting.

  • We have to each them to understand that you know...

  • PRACTITIONER: There’s a difference between 1 and 2 and a halfso how much are we taking off?

  • LEARNER: 2 and a half inches. PRACTITIONER: 2 and a half.

  • PRACTITIONER: Estimation is something, I think that is getting them to

  • understand the difference between guessing and estimation.

  • They think estimation means to guess. So when theyre working they use a lot of estimation,

  • estimating lengthis the client happy with that? They need to make that estimation.

  • PRACTITIONER: And what’s it called it when you bring it forward?

  • LEARNER 3: Forward graduation PRACTITIONER: Forward graduation

  • PRACTIONER: Some things they can’t estimate. Colours, ratios have to be exact.

  • PRACTITIONER: Are we thinking an all over colour, is that what youve had in the past?

  • PRACTITIONER: Is that a good match? LEARNER 5: Yes, I think is.

  • PRACTITIONER: So if your natural base is a 6, what’s your

  • undertone? What’s the underlying tone that’s going to run through it?

  • LEARNER 5: 6, is it....orange? PRACTITIONER: Yes, orange

  • PRACTITIONER: So existing colour, so we need to look at what’s on the ends.

  • What kind of colour do you think is on the ends?

  • PRACTITIONER: Blends in quite well doesn’t it? LEARNER: Yes compared to this one,

  • which was a bit too dark.

  • PRACTITIONER: Existing colour on the ends is 6GB.

  • So now we need to think about the percentage of white.

  • I don't even think were at 30%. LEARNER 5: No.

  • PRACTITIONER: So is that going to really affect your colour choice?

  • LEARNER: No, compared to if it’s higher. We’d have to do...

  • PRACTITONER: You'd have to change your ratios to meetLEARNER 5: Or your colour as well

  • PRACTITIONER: Good, yes, the grey needs.

  • So I’d put zero, because there is grey but it’s not affecting the service.

  • So if we look, were going to go with, 5BG and 5N. So how much 5BG are you going to use?

  • Remember it’s of a global colour.

  • LEARNER 5: It’s Topchic isn’t it? PRACTITIONER: Yes.

  • PRACTITIONER: So what ratio is it? LEARNER 5: 1:1

  • PRACTITIONER: So it’s a 1:1 ratio, so what are we going to mix?

  • How much solution do you think youre going to need? Quite a bit?

  • LEARNER 5: Yes, quite a fair bit. PRACTITIONER: Okay

  • LEARNER 5: So, if I say did...

  • ...I feel better if I say too much. PRACTITIONER: I’d rather you had too much

  • than not enough. LEARNER 5: Say 40 to...

  • PRACTITIONER: 40 mls... LEARNER 5: 10, 10 mls?

  • PRACTITIONER: To 10 mls. What peroxide are you going to use?

  • LEARNER 5: If you use the wrong peroxide or you put too much in, or the wrong ratio,

  • then it won’t work or it might damage the client's hair.

  • PRACTITIONER: That would lift slightly and cover greybut we don’t need to worry

  • about that. So we only need the... LEARNER 5: Like 4?

  • PRACTITIONER: 3 percent. LEARNER 5: 4, 3?

  • PRACTITIONER: So 3 percent. And how much 3 percent are we going to mix?

  • LEARNER 5: Well, 50 mls. PRACTITIONER: 50 mls.

  • PRACTITIONER: Perfect.

  • LEARNER 5: I’ll just write it on here. PRACTITIONER: So if you write it on there,

  • and then you can start mixing your colour.

  • PRACTITIONER: Most students would say that

  • they're not comfortable at all with ratios. Same with percentages or anything like that.

  • But theyre all a lot more comfortable than they think, as long as it’s practical.

  • So if I ask them to mix a colour they can do it, but if I ask them to do it in a classroom

  • setting, on a sheet of maths doing ratios, they’d all say ‘I can’t do that’.

  • But in a practical setting they do it every single day, so they have to be extremely comfortable with it.

  • COMMENTARY: Firstly, Charley needs to mix the colours required

  • to achieve the overall tone that she has selected. In this case it’s

  • the permanent colours 5BG and 5N, and they will need to be combined in the ratio 4 to 1.

  • COMMENTARY: Previously, she had estimated that she would need about 50 grams of this

  • colour solution all together, to which she will add the peroxide.

  • LEARNER 5: I’ve just mixed 40mls of 5BG and then I’ve mixed 10mls of 5N.

  • COMMENTARY: The amount of peroxide required depends on the manufacturer’s specifications,

  • and for these colours it’s in the ratio 1:1.

  • LEARNER: And then I reset the scales and then put 50mls of 3% in, which is the peroxide.

  • PRACTITIONER: Were dealing with students from lots of different places.

  • So some students will mix colour using millilitres, so they use

  • a little jug and they pour it in, whereas our students are using scales.

  • LEARNER 5: So when weve put the bowl on, we reset the scales so then it brings it back to zero.

  • And then we can get an accurate measurement of how many millilitres of the colour weve

  • got, to make sure it takes properly on the head, on the client.

  • PRACTITIONER: So basically, weve just gone over everybody's consultation,

  • we go through every single learner

  • to make sure that they know exactly what theyre going to be doing with their clients

  • and we like to go through the theory aspects to link what theyve done in the classroom,

  • into the practical session.

  • I think they all adapt to the maths really well when it’s practical.

  • They don’t even know they're doing it until you actually pull it out.

  • I think it really surprised them today with such a big focus on maths in the practical

  • session, of how much they had actually done.

  • PRACTITIONER 2: What do you usually pay Lyn?

  • CUSTOMER: It’s family and friends, because Sarah’s my daughter.

  • PRACTITIONER 2: Lovely, and then go to your discount, family and friends, yes, and your sale.

  • LEARNER 1: That’s £6 today

  • COMMENTARY: Like any commercial salon, the learners become aware of the importance of

  • timing and how as a team, they need to coordinate the different processes taking place

  • so that the salon works effectively as a unit.

  • PRACTITIONER 2: And is it a full head of colour and a cut? LEARNER 5: Yes it is.

  • PRACTITIONER 2: Okay, there you go, there’s your total.

  • LEARNER 5: So that’s £38 today then please.

  • PRACTITIONER: Well done for today, some really good work.

  • COMMENTARY: To end the session a debrief.

  • PRACTITIONER: Charley, well start with you.

  • What maths did you do, do you want to share with the group what we covered?

  • LEARNER 5: I used ratio to mix my all over colour. And then in my cut with my layerings I used

  • angles and then also with my one length bringing it just straight down.

  • PRACTITIONER: I think it’s quite interesting to see and hear their reflections on

  • how much maths they know now - that they do every day

  • in their lives, that they didn’t actually think they did.

  • I think if we’d asked them cold this morning, ‘how much maths will we do todaythey

  • would have gonenot much’. I think it’s quite interesting at the very end to see that

  • there was so much they’d done and how much they’d taken from it

  • and how much they found it interesting because it was practical.

  • PRACTITIONER: The cut that you did Charley,

  • which angle did you use?

  • LEARNER 5: With my one length? PRACTITIONER: So with your one length, because

  • that was the main one that you focused on. LEARNER 5: Zero.

  • PRACTITIONER: So you were zero, you were right to the bottom weren't you.

  • So with your long graduation, thinking that long graduation can be

  • anything from 125 to 135 degrees, where do you think youre sat?

  • [Learner thinks]

  • LEARNER 5: About 125 ish? PRACTITIONER: Yes, it probably was for the

  • angle you were cutting at, definitely. Way up here somewhere, so you can see the

  • different ranges that were working through.

  • PRACTITIONER: So Nathan what did we cover with you today?

  • LEARNER 3: Just the cutting on a long length.

  • So just zero graduation, so straight down. PRACTITIONER: Straight down. What was your

  • biggest challenge today? LEARNER 3: Just a lot of hair

  • PRACTITIONER: The length and a lot of hair. So it’s acceptable, to make sure you get that

  • zero degrees, to get that client to stand up. If it’s a small child it might be easier to

  • get them to sit on a stool, but it’s acceptable to make them stand because you

  • need that hair as flat to the head as you possibly can. Fab.

  • PRACTITIONER: Becky? LEARNER 1: The uniform bit was pulled out of the

  • head at 90 and just cut straight across.

  • PRACTITIONER: To keep that nice round shape. LEARNER 1: Yes.

  • PRACTITIONER: Brilliant.

  • PRACTITIONER: So you all covered other areas of maths.

  • Taking your bills at reception, making sure the clients get the correct change

  • and theyve got the correct discounts that are in there. And all the other things that you have

  • to make sure at reception - that you're booking the times in for their repeat services and things correctly.

  • So you did really well today, both in your hairdressing skills and

  • the linking in with the maths that we did. So well done.

  • CUSTOMER: Thank you very much. LEARNER 5: Thank you very much. See you later, lovely to meet you.

  • CUSTOMER: Nice to meet you too, thank you. LEARNER 5: Bye.

PRACTITIONER: This morning, Lisa has got Lyn in for a shampoo and set.

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