- I'm Matt.

- I'm Kerry.

- [Matt] We are the Stagmer brothers

of Baltimore Knife and Sword.

We're going to be building some of your favorite weapons

and some weapons you've never seen before.

- [Kerry] This is Man at Arms. Reforged.

- So if you've been watching

our League of Legends builds before

and we've talked about playing,

you'll know that I mostly play ARAMs.

When you're playing ARAMs,

that one champ you don't want to see on the other team,

especially from a competent player,

is Master Yi.

To create Master Yi's blade,

I'll be using 3.5 inches of 4140 stock.

I'll be knocking this down,

getting it down to a bar form using the Nazel power hammer.

It'll take me about a half an hour to get it down to a bar

and then we'll work from there.

- [Matt] Now that Kerry's done a lot of the brute forging

and really broken down this round stock

into a nice long bar,

Ilya's going to take over from here

and start forging the blade.

He's going to continue drawing it out.

He's going to work on both the flat

and on the sides to make sure

everything stays nice true as he draws it out.

Here, you can clearly see where Ilya's spraying water

onto the blade as he's working

and the scales popping from the surface.

The reason we want that scale to pop off

is it can leave really deep pits in the metal.

We have a really limited amount

of material to work from this time.

We've got to make a pretty large blade

so we can't afford any loss.

(thrilling music)

You can see now, Ilya's turning that symmetrical point

that he forged in into the more Tanto,

katana-like point that we're used to seeing in the game art.

You've seen Ilya do very similar work

on the Kill Bill katana episode.

Ilya's quickly become one of the major masters

in this country at forging super large blades.

Not too many people even take those commissions.

Many customers come, asking all different sword makers

if they'll make super huge large blades

like you guys request.

Ilya has now forged more than

probably any of them in this country, maybe worldwide.

He's quickly become a master

and it's fun to watch him work.

At this point, Ilya's removing the handle section

so that he can define the tang.

Doesn't need that handle on there for leverage anymore

now that the blade's drawn out so long.

He's flipped it over.

He's using a hot cut tool underneath the power hammer.

He's just going to remove that material,

allow him to forge that section.

Now that the power hammer work is done on this blade,

Ilya's going to move to the anvil

and start forging in the bevels.

You can see, as he works to get these really steep bevels,

he's working on the very edge of the anvil.

This is so that when he holds that blade at an angle

and strikes it matching that angle,

he doesn't hit the face of the anvil,

dinging it or possibly chipping the anvil.

To give you guys a sense of time,

Ilya's been hand-beveling now for about an hour.

He's now at the point where he's joining

the tip bevel into the shoulder bevel.

He's got about a six-inch section to go.

This is a long process,

takes about 20 heats to get the bevel forged in

on a big blade like this,

so he's just going to stay at it

and then I'll be ready to do the grinding.

Now that the forging is done,

it's time to start the grinding.

I have a few things I gotta work out before I start.

This is a hybrid between a Chinese ring sword,

which has nine rings down the back of the blade.

this only has two,

and a Japanese katana.

The Chinese ring swords are very flimsy and very light,

used in traditional forms.

Japanese katana's very thick and has very prominent edges

so I have to do a blend of them both.

I'm going to start by profiling just slightly

and then start on those heavy bevels.

(thrilling music)

- Today, I've been working

on the League of Legends ring sword

and I'm doing the rings

that are going to hang from the sword.

We're going to do them out of bronze

and we decided to do them

as the stylized snake that's eating its tail.

Now I'm in the process of carving the scales on it

and once the scales are carved on it,

we'll cast it in bronze and then finish it tomorrow

and any place where I've lost the scales,

I'll be able to put them back on with the chasing tool.

- [Kerry] We'll be doing these castings with lost wax.

First we take the waxes and screw them into a tree.

Then they're set into a flask

and plaster is poured around them.

It's a special plaster called investment.

It'll go into the kiln.

We slowly ramp up to 1350,

lowered to a thousand.

It'll be placed into the casting machine

and then I'm going to bring in

molten, 2100-degree bronze

and pour it into the vacuum machine.

After it reaches 900 degrees,

we'll take it to the water,

it'll steam off the investment,

and show us our bronze.

- The last step before heat-treating the blade

is to get those holes located and drilled in

where our rings will go after.

Now that we got our blade ready for heat treating,

its time to move onto the guard portion.

Just like in some previous League of Legends builds,

the splash art doesn't always match with the end game art

so I've had to do a little figuring out,

see where I want to go with this guard.

This is the main splash art for Master Yi

for his basic standard skin

and this is what we've based our design off so far.

Unfortunately, all the pictures I can find of it

have that guard and the blade off angle

so what I had to do was kind of zoom in here,

take a good look at everything,

and I just freehand drew

what I thought the guard would look like.

What I'm going to do now is I'm going

to mirror it over from the center point here.

Just gotta fill in a few lines.

The blade will come out of this section.

Probably going to set a stone

or something like that in the middle,

cut some overlays to make those borders rise out.

We'll be good to go.

(thrilling music)

So we have six different pieces that make up this guard.

We have our central wings,

we have the quillon block,

and then the outer pieces

which are going to make it look like a nice rise border.

What I have to do now

is I gotta take both of these quillon block pieces

and instead of them being nice and flat,

we want them to angle towards the blade

so they're thicker at the handle

and thinner at the blade.

(suspenseful music)

- (mumbles) heat treat Master Yi's sword, his Da-dao.

This blade is made out of 4140 steel.

It's an excellent steel for jackhammer bits,

hammer dies and other impact tools.

4140 has approximately 0.4% carbon,

means I don't have to watch my temperatures

as carefully as some other higher carbon steels

but it has tons of manganese and tons of chrome in it.

This means if I were to try to hamon this blade,

it would not show any hamon

because it's a deep-hardening steel

and the quench goes all the way under the clay to the spine.

- [Kerry] Ilya now goes into our long furnace

brings this piece up to critical temperature

to where it's non-magnetic,

brings it out, and takes it to the quench.

- So I quenched Master Yi's Dadao.

It is at full hardness now.

However, because it's 4140,

it doesn't get hard as the high-carbon steels.

Check this sound out.

It doesn't have that glassy sound because it's 4140.

Its highest hardness I can get on this blade

in oil quench is about

let's say 55, 51 Rockwell.

The highest hardness it can get out of 1075, 1095

can be up to 60-61 Rockwell in an oil quench.

Master Yi's sword has been in the tank

for about an hour already.

In the tempering, this is actually the last opportunity

to straighten out any warps produced in the quenching.

So, I'm going to take it out

and go to the vise to quickly yank some of them straight.

So Master Yi's sword is basically straight.

Any other warping along the edge will be fixed in the grind

when it's being made sharp.

- Now that we have Master Yi's Wushu blade

completely heat-treated and tempered,

I can move onto the polishing.

My first goal is to start at the 80 grit

and remove all the deep scale

and then I'll go through the grits from there.

(uptempo music)

All right, so I just ran this blade through the grits,

120, 220, I got a little more polishing to do

before I move onto the Scotch-Brite

but I was able to define that kissaki,

which is where the two different bevels come together.

I add a small back bevel on the spine.

Just think it looks a little more aggressive and I like it.

Really happy with it so far.

Time to get that hilt and the pommel on.

- The pommel for Master Yi's sword

will be constructed from three pieces

of black iron pipe and a couple pieces of round bar.

It'll be forged into two arrowhead finials.

When forging finials like this,

the pre-form is very important.

So I'm going to take a piece of this round bar

and I'm going to flatten it out,

and then I'm going to form two shoulders

and then using the edge of the anvil,

I'm going to buck that shape

to get a shape like this.

And then from there, I'll bevel them

and draw that point more

and then it'll get cleaned up to look like that.

So one, two, three.

- So for the pommel on Master Yi,

Sam's already forged out a couple of the points

that go to the left and right.

I'm going to be basically turning a spike out the top

and then we'll probably do

some faceting on it to get the fit.

It'll lock down into a pipe section

that'll become the main part of the pommel.

All that's going to get welded solid

and that'll hold the whole sword together.

- [Matt] For the construction on our pommel,

we're going to use two pieces of pipe.

One's going to get a notch in it, the other a V.

They're going to be put together and welded solid.

We'll start by cutting the two pieces of pipe on the saw.

Then I move to the sander