Placeholder Image

Subtitles section Play video

  • HI, I'M RICK STEVES, BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.

  • THIS TIME, WE EXPLORE SIENA AND ASSISI,

  • PLUS THE COUNTRYSIDE IN BETWEEN.

  • IF YOU FALL IN LOVE WITH ITALY,

  • GOOD CHANCE IT WILL BE RIGHT HERE.

  • IN MANY WAYS THE HEART OF THIS COUNTRY

  • IS THE REGION OF TUSCANY.

  • IT'S HERE WHERE THE RUSTIC SOUL

  • AND RURAL MYSTIQUE OF THIS COUNTRY COMBINE

  • TO SEDUCE TRAVELERS INTO TOSSING THEIR ITINERARIES

  • AND SETTLING IN.

  • IN SIENA, WE'LL CLIMB THE HIGHEST TOWER,

  • SAVOR LOCAL CUISINE,

  • AND GET TO KNOW A FAMILY.

  • AND THEN, FOR A TASTE OF TUSCANY,

  • WE'LL EXPLORE TINY HILL TOWNS,

  • SLEEP RUSTIC, BUT CLASSY, IN A COUNTRY FARM,

  • AND SAMPLE SOME GREAT WINE.

  • IN ASSISI, WE'LL JOIN PILGRIMS AT THE BASILICA OF ST. FRANCIS.

  • ITALY PACKS 55 MILLION PEOPLE

  • INTO AN AREA ABOUT THE SIZE OF ARIZONA.

  • WE'LL START IN SIENA,

  • VISIT HIGHLIGHTS OF TUSCANY,

  • BEFORE FINISHING IN ASSISI.

  • SIENA SEEMS TO BE EVERY ITALY CONNOISSEUR'S FAVORITE TOWN.

  • IN THE 1300s, IT WAS A MAJOR MILITARY POWER,

  • IN A CLASS WITH FLORENCE, VENICE AND GENOA.

  • WITH A POPULATION OF 60,000 PEOPLE,

  • IT WAS ONE OF EUROPE'S LARGEST CITIES.

  • BUT WEAKENED BY A DEVASTATING PLAGUE

  • AND CONQUERED BY ITS BITTER RIVAL FLORENCE,

  • SIENA HAS BEEN A BACKWATER FOR FIVE CENTURIES.

  • SIENA'S LOSS BECAME OUR SIGHT-SEEING GAIN,

  • AS ITS POLITICAL AND ECONOMIC IRRELEVANCE

  • PRESERVED ITS PURELY GOTHIC IDENTITY.

  • SIENA'S GREAT CENTRAL PIAZZA, IL CAMPO,

  • IS LIKE A PEOPLE-FRIENDLY STAGE SET.

  • ITS GENTLY TILTED FLOOR FANS OUT FROM THE TOWER.

  • SPRAWLING BEFORE THE CITY HALL BACKDROP,

  • IT OFFERS THE PERFECT INVITATION TO LOITER.

  • THE SIENESE LOUNGE COMFORTABLY ON THIS SQUARE

  • AS IF IT'S THEIR COMMUNITY LIVING ROOM.

  • TWO TIMES EACH SUMMER, SIENA HOLDS THE PALIO,

  • A WILD BAREBACK HORSE RACE AROUND THIS SQUARE.

  • NEIGHBORHOODS COMPETE, HURLING THEMSELVES WITH MEDIEVAL ABANDON

  • INTO A FESTIVAL WHICH CLIMAXES IN THIS 90-SECOND ROMP.

  • IT'S STANDING ROOM ONLY AS 40,000 PEOPLE,

  • MOSTLY LOCALS, PACK THIS SQUARE.

  • BUT TODAY, IT'S QUIET.

  • AND AT THE FOUNTAIN OF JOY,

  • PIGEONS POLITELY WAIT THEIR TURN TO SLURP A DRINK.

  • WHILE MOST ITALIAN CITIES HAVE A CHURCH ON THEIR MAIN SQUARE,

  • SIENA GATHERS AROUND ITS CITY HALL.

  • IT WAS AN AUTONOMOUS REPUBLIC,

  • AND THIS WAS ITS DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE,

  • THE TALLEST SECULAR MEDIEVAL TOWER IN ITALY.

  • 300 STEPS TAKE YOU 100 YARDS HIGH.

  • THE REWARD:

  • ONE OF ITALY'S FINEST VIEWS.

  • THE DOMINANT COLOR:

  • SIENNA.

  • INSIDE THE CITY HALL, IN THE ROOM OF PEACE,

  • THE TOWN COUNCIL MET UNDER INSTRUCTIVE FRESCOES

  • SHOWING THE EFFECTS OF GOOD AND BAD GOVERNMENT.

  • BAD GOVERNMENT, A DICTATORSHIP COUNSELED BY GREED AND TYRANNY,

  • BRINGS A DREARY CITY WITHOUT SPIRIT

  • AND VIOLENCE IN THE STREETS.

  • BUT A GOOD GOVERNMENT, WITH WISE AND VIRTUOUS COUNCIL,

  • RESULTS IN A UTOPIAN REPUBLIC WHERE THE SHOPPING'S BRISK,

  • PROFESSORS TEACH ATTENTIVE STUDENTS,

  • CONSTRUCTION IS BOOMING

  • AND WOMEN DANCE FREELY IN THE STREETS.

  • THE MESSAGE?

  • A COMMUNITY RULED BY A JUST GOVERNMENT ENJOYS PEACE,

  • PROSPERITY, AND A GREAT PLACE IN WHICH TO RAISE YOUR KIDS.

  • IN THE NEARBY HOSPITAL OF SANTA MARIA della SCALA,

  • A SERIES OF IDEALIZED FRESCOES ILLUSTRATES HOW FAR

  • SECULAR SOCIETY HAD COME IN SIENA BY THE 1440s.

  • THE CITY RAN THIS HOSPITAL

  • IN A WAY THAT SEEMED TO TAKE OVER

  • THE CHURCH'S TRADITIONAL SOCIAL ROLE.

  • IT TOOK IN ORPHANS AND RAISED THEM,

  • FROM WET NURSE

  • THROUGH HOMEWORK

  • TO A CIVIL WEDDING.

  • AND THIS WEDDING IS NOT ARRANGED,

  • AS THIS MAN WOULD HAVE LIKED.

  • IT'S BASED ON LOVE.

  • SIENESE SOCIETY PROVIDED WELFARE --

  • BREAD TO NEEDY PEOPLE --

  • THROUGH THIS HOSPITAL RATHER THAN THE CHURCH.

  • NOTE THE LOAVES ARE CLEVERLY STAMPED TO PREVENT RESALE.

  • THE HOSPITAL WAS RUN BY DOCTORS AND SECULAR NURSES.

  • IN A SLAP TO CHURCH AUTHORITIES,

  • THE WELL-FED MONK LOOKS BORED

  • AS HE HARDLY HEARS A DYING PATIENT'S CONFESSION.

  • WE'RE STAYING AT ALBERGO BERNINI IN THE OLD TOWN CENTER,

  • WITH THE MAGIC OF SIENA RIGHT OUT OUR WINDOW.

  • THE ROOMS ARE HOMEY AND COMFORTABLE,

  • BREAKFAST ON THE TERRACE COMES WITH A SPECTACULAR VIEW,

  • AND A FRIENDLY FAMILY MEMBER AT THE DESK

  • IS ALWAYS READY TO HELP YOU WITH TRAVEL QUESTIONS.

  • AND IN A LITTLE FAMILY-RUN PLACE LIKE THIS,

  • SERENDIPITY IS ALMOST A CERTAINTY,

  • AND YOU FEEL LIKE PART OF A SIENESE FAMILY.

  • Rick: BRAVO!

  • SIENA'S DUOMO, OR CATHEDRAL,

  • IS AS OVER THE TOP AS GOTHIC GETS.

  • THE STRIPED PAJAMA FACADE

  • IS PILED WITH STATUES AND ORNAMENTATION.

  • ITS INTERIOR IS DECORATED FROM TOP TO BOTTOM.

  • THE HEADS OF 172 POPES PEER DOWN ON ALL THOSE WHO ENTER.

  • THE CHURCH IS FILLED WITH GREAT ART.

  • NICOLA PISANO'S WONDERFUL PULPIT

  • WAS CARVED OUT OF MARBLE IN 1268.

  • IT'S CROWDED WITH DELICATE GOTHIC STORYTELLING,

  • SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF CHRIST AND THE LAST JUDGMENT.

  • THIS TOMB, DEDICATED TO A SIENESE POPE,

  • INCLUDES A MINOR MICHELANGELO.

  • BUT THE MOST EXCITING STATUARY HIDES HERE, IN A SIDE CHAPEL,

  • WHERE YOU'LL UNDERSTAND WHY

  • LORENZO BERNINI IS CONSIDERED THE GREATEST BAROQUE SCULPTOR.

  • MARY MAGDALENE IS IN SPIRITUAL ECSTASY.

  • AND ST. JEROME CARESSES THE CRUCIFIX

  • LIKE A VIOLINIST LOST IN BEAUTIFUL MUSIC.

  • NEXT DOOR, THE CATHEDRAL MUSEUM

  • HOLDS MANY OF THE CHURCH'S MOST PRECIOUS ORIGINALS.

  • DUCCIO'S ENTHRONED VIRGIN,

  • PAINTED FOR THE CATHEDRAL'S HIGH ALTAR,

  • IS THE MOST CAPTIVATING PIECE OF ART IN ALL SIENA.

  • IT'S FROM AROUND 1300, LONG BEFORE THE RENAISSANCE,

  • WHEN THE ARTIST'S MISSION WAS TO TELL A BIBLE STORY,

  • EMPHASIZING EASY-TO-READ SYMBOLISM

  • AND SERENE BEAUTY OVER REALISM.

  • THE FLIP SIDE OF THIS TWO-SIDED ALTARPIECE HAS 26 PANELS,

  • THE ARTISTIC EQUIVALENT OF PAGES.

  • IT SHOWS SCENES FROM THE PASSION OF CHRIST,

  • THE LAST DAYS THAT LED UP TO HIS CRUCIFIXION.

  • IN THIS PANEL, JESUS WASHES THE FEET OF THE APOSTLES.

  • AND HERE, JUDAS KISSES JESUS,

  • IDENTIFYING HIM TO HIS ROMAN CAPTORS.

  • AND THE CATHEDRAL MUSEUM COMES WITH A SURPRISE:

  • A COMMANDING VIEW.

  • FROM THIS HILLTOP, SIENA UNFOLDS IN ALL DIRECTIONS.

  • CONSIDER THIS:

  • WHEN FLORENCE BEGAN BUILDING ITS GRAND CATHEDRAL,

  • THE RIVAL REPUBLIC OF SIENA RESPONDED WITH A PLAN

  • TO BUILD THE BIGGEST CHURCH IN ALL CHRISTENDOM.

  • ITS EXISTING CATHEDRAL WOULD BE USED ONLY AS A TRANSEPT,

  • OR WING, OFF THE NEW NAVE, OR MAIN BUILDING.

  • I'M SITTING ATOP WHAT WOULD HAVE BEEN

  • THE FRONT OF THAT CHURCH.

  • THESE TOWERING MARBLE ARCHES

  • HINT AT THE IMMENSITY OF THE PROJECT.

  • BUT THESE ARCHES WERE AS FAR AS SIENA GOT

  • BEFORE CONSTRUCTION PROBLEMS AND A PLAGUE SCUTTLED THE PROJECT.

  • WERE IT COMPLETED, THIS SQUARE WOULD HAVE BEEN THE NAVE.

  • HIDING BEHIND ALL THESE GREAT SIGHTS

  • ARE INTRIGUING BACK STREETS.

  • HERE YOU'LL GET AWAY FROM THE CROWDS

  • AND FIND YOURSELF ALL ALONE

  • WITH THE MEDIEVAL MAGIC OF SIENA:

  • STEEP LANES AND MYSTERIOUS BYWAYS

  • THAT HAVE CHANGED LITTLE OVER THE CENTURIES.

  • AND ALL OVER TOWN,

  • SHOPS TEMPT YOU WITH SIENESE SPECIALTIES:

  • GOURMET PASTA,

  • VINTAGE CHIANTI,

  • WILD BOAR PROSCIUTTO,

  • EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL,

  • AND PANFORTE.

  • SIENA'S CLAIM TO CALORIC FAME,

  • PANFORTE IS A CHEWY LOCAL DELICACY

  • THAT IMPRESSES EVEN FRUITCAKE HATERS.

  • HERE WE ARE. HUNGRY?

  • ALRIGHT.

  • THIS IS PANFORTE.

  • WHEN I'M IN TOWN WITH TOUR GROUPS, I TEAM UP

  • WITH MY SIENESE FRIEND AND TOUR GUIDE ROBERTO BECHI.

  • TO ROBERTO,

  • SIENA IS THE FOUNTAINHEAD OF ALL CIVILIZATION.

  • WHAT DO YOU LIKE?

  • I LIKE IT WITHOUT.

  • OKAY.

  • TRY THE SPICY ONE.

  • BON APPETITO.

  • ROBERTO'S TAKING US TO HIS COUSIN'S BAKERY

  • FOR A PEEK AT HOW THE PANFORTE'S ACTUALLY MADE,

  • A RECIPE THAT CAN BE TRACED BACK TO THE 13th CENTURY.

  • [ Roberto speaking Italian ]

  • ANTONIO EXPLAINS THAT TRADITIONAL PANFORTE

  • CONSISTS OF NUTS, HONEY, FLOWER, VANILLA,

  • AND AN INTERESTING VARIETY OF DRIED FRUIT.

  • AND HIS EMPLOYEES MIGHT HAVE TO SIGN A NONDISCLOSURE AGREEMENT

  • WHEN IT COMES TO ANTONIO'S MIX OF SPICES.

  • SPICES.

  • SPICES. WHAT ARE IN THE SPICES?

  • WHAT KIND OF SPICES?

  • [ speaking Italian ]

  • IT'S A SECRET.

  • YOU CAN TELL ME.

  • [ laughing ]

  • THIS MEDIEVAL CONCOCTION IS ALL MIXED TOGETHER

  • AND TURNED INTO DENSE WHEELS OF SIENESE DELIGHT.

  • [ Antonio speaking Italian ]

  • FOR YOUR FAMILY.

  • THAT'S VERY NICE.

  • GRATIA.

  • CIAO!

  • GRATIA, GRATIA, GRATIA.

  • CIAO!

  • NO LOOK AT TUSCANY IS COMPLETE

  • WITHOUT GETTING OUT OF ITS CITIES.

  • MANY TRAVELERS COME HERE TO THE CHIANTI REGION,

  • WITH ITS ROLLING HILLS AND VINEYARDS,

  • TO ENJOY A SLOWER, RICHER LIFESTYLE.

  • ITS FORTIFIED FARMHOUSES ARE REMINISCENT OF MEDIEVAL DAYS

  • WHEN THIS WAS PART OF THE FLORENCE-SIENA BATTLEFIELD.

  • TODAY, THEY'RE PEACEFUL,

  • GROWING EVER MORE GRACEFUL WITH AGE.

  • VERTINE IS TYPICAL OF CHIANTI'S FORTIFIED VILLAGES.

  • WHILE TOURISTS PACK THE FAMOUS PLACES,

  • LITTLE OFFBEAT GEMS LIKE THIS, EVEN IN PEAK SEASON,

  • REMAIN SLEEPY.

  • TOWNS LIKE THIS ORIGINATED

  • AS COMMUNITIES OF FARMERS BANDED TOGETHER

  • ON EASILY DEFENSIBLE HILLTOPS OVERLOOKING THEIR FARMLAND.

  • IN RURAL TUSCANY, TRADITIONAL FARMING IS KEPT ALIVE

  • BY FARMERS LIKE FRANCO CUCINI.

  • WHILE HIS SWANS THINK THIS POOL'S MADE FOR THEM,

  • IT'S ACTUALLY A RESERVOIR USED TO POWER FRANCO'S FLOURMILL.

  • THE MILL,

  • WITH WORKING PARTS THAT HAVE CHANGED LITTLE OVER THE AGES,

  • HAS BEEN GRINDING CORN AND WHEAT SINCE THE 17th CENTURY.

  • UNTIL THE 1960s,

  • NEIGHBORING FARMERS BROUGHT THEIR GRAIN HERE TO BE GROUND.

  • WHILE LOCALS KNOW STONE-GROUND FLOUR IS TASTIEST,

  • MILLS LIKE THESE ARE A TOUGH FIT IN OUR FAST-PACED WORLD.

  • LOOK AT THAT.

  • THIS IS THE PRODUCT.

  • OKAY. NOW YOU HAVE TO SIFT THAT.

  • YEAH. YEAH.

  • WE'RE GOING TO DO THAT.

  • IT'S BEAUTIFUL.

  • THAT'S NICE.

  • NOW YOU COOK WITH THIS.

  • YES. YOU MAKE POLENTA.

  • POLENTA. OKAY.

  • SOUTH OF CHIANTI COUNTRY IS A REGION CALLED THE CRETE.

  • IT FEATURES CLAY HILLS,

  • THE TOPSOIL WASHED AWAY BY AGES OF RAIN,

  • AND DELICATE LANES OF CYPRESS.

  • THE DRAMATIC BEAUTY OF THE COUNTRYSIDE

  • CHANGES WITH THE SEASONS.

  • AND THE TERRAIN IS DOTTED BY RUSTIC YET NOBLE FARMHOUSES,

  • MANY OF WHICH RENT ROOMS TO TOURISTS.

  • SMALL FARMS ARE STRUGGLING TO SURVIVE HERE AS IN AMERICA.

  • ALL OVER EUROPE, FARMS ARE RENTING ROOMS TO TRAVELERS,

  • NOW HARVESTING THEIR RURAL CHARM AS WELL AS PRODUCE

  • TO HELP MAKE ENDS MEET.

  • HERE IN ITALY, FARMHOUSE B&Bs ARE CALLED AGRITURISMOS.

  • WE'RE STAYING IN THE 13th CENTURY HOME AND FARM

  • OF SYLVIA GORI, AND SHE'S HAPPY TO SHOW US AROUND.

  • AS HER FAMILY HAS FOR CENTURIES,

  • SYLVIA LIVES IN THE MANOR HOUSE.

  • AND AFTER A LOOK AT THE LIVING ROOM, IT'S CLEAR:

  • THE RURAL NOBILITY OF ITALY SURVIVES.

  • [ Sylvia speaking Italian ]

  • THIS IS THE FIREPLACE WHERE YOU CAN STILL COOK.

  • DO THEY STILL USE THIS?

  • YES.

  • CAN I PULL IT OUT?

  • YES, YOU CAN. THIS IS FOR THE POLENTA.

  • IT'S FOR TO HAVE HOT WATER ALL THE TIME.

  • UPSTAIRS IS THE VAST BILLIARDS ROOM.

  • FOR GENERATIONS, EVENINGS ENDED HERE.

  • MUSTY PORTRAITS ARE REMINDERS

  • OF THE FAMILY'S LONG AND NOBLE LINEAGE.

  • THE FARM IS STRICTLY ORGANIC.

  • THESE PIGS ARE A RARE BREED,

  • BROUGHT BACK FROM THE EDGE OF EXTINCTION

  • BY PEOPLE WHO CARE ABOUT TRADITIONAL AGRICULTURE.

  • AND GAZING AT THESE HUGGABLE SHEEP,

  • YOU CAN ALMOST TASTE THE PECORINO CHEESE.

  • AND CHEESE IS AN IMPORTANT PART OF THIS FARM'S ECONOMY.

  • WALLS ARE STACKED WITH ROUNDS OF PECORINO,

  • MADE FROM THE UNPASTEURIZED AND THEREFORE TASTIER MILK

  • OF THE FARM'S SHEEP.

  • TRADITIONAL, ORGANIC METHODS ARE LABOR-INTENSIVE,

  • BUT CONNOISSEURS OF GOOD LIVING HERE

  • KNOW IT'S WELL WORTH THE TROUBLE AND EXPENSE.

  • THE FARM ALSO PRODUCES TOP-GRADE PROSCIUTTO.

  • THE HAMS ARE NOT COOKED, BUT CURED IN SALT.

  • AFTER HANGING IN A ROOM FOR SEVERAL WEEKS,

  • EACH ONE IS GIVEN A SPICY COAT OF PEPPER.

  • THE SLOW CURING PROCESS -- HERE THEY'RE CHECKING THE PROGRESS

  • WITH A HORSE-BONE NEEDLE -- TAKES OVER A YEAR.

  • THE TRADITION OF MAKING THESE FOODS

  • IS AS TIMELESS AS THE TUSCAN COUNTRYSIDE.

  • SYLVIA, HAPPY TO SHARE THE FRUITS OF HER LABOR,

  • INVITES US FOR DINNER.

  • WHILE THIS PROSCIUTTO AND PECORINO CHEESE

  • IS SOLD ALL OVER ITALY WITH THE FAMILY'S LABEL,

  • IT'S PARTICULARLY TASTY WHEN EATEN RIGHT HERE.

  • IT'S A CLASSIC TUSCAN TABLE:

  • SIMPLICITY, A SENSE OF HARMONY, AND NO HURRY,

  • ENJOYED WITH A GREAT GLASS OF CHIANTI.

  • SYLVIA RENTS OUT A FEW ROOMS TO TRAVELERS.

  • AS IS TYPICAL OF AGRITURISMOS,

  • THE FURNISHINGS ARE RUSTIC BUT COMFY,

  • AND THE WELL-EQUIPPED KITCHEN

  • IS IDEAL FOR ANYONE SETTLING IN TO TUSCANY.

  • AND IF YOU'RE REALLY ON VACATION,

  • THIS IS A GOOD PLACE TO BE.

  • DISTANCES ARE SHORT IN TUSCANY.

  • AND WHILE PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION'S MEAGER,

  • IF YOU HAVE A CAR, YOU CAN ENJOY FASCINATING DAYS

  • EXPLORING FROM A RURAL HOME BASE LIKE THIS.

  • WE'RE HEADING SOUTH TO MONTALCINO,

  • HOME OF THE MUCH-LOVED WINE, BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO.

  • TYPICAL OF THE REGION'S HILL TOWNS,

  • MONTALCINO SPRAWLS UNDER ITS CASTLE

  • WITH CHARACTERISTIC STEPPED LANES,

  • PEACEFUL PIAZZAS,

  • AND SHOPS SELLING LOCAL SPECIALTIES,

  • IN THIS CASE, THE AREA'S FAMOUS WINE.

  • WE'RE HERE IN SEPTEMBER.

  • THE GRAPES ARE AT THEIR PEAK AND IT'S HARVEST TIME.

  • ALL AROUND, SMALL FAMILY VINEYARDS ARE BUSY

  • MAKING THE RENOWNED BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO.

  • THE CENCIONI FAMILY IS GIVING US A LOOK AT THEIR OPERATION.

  • THIS CLEVER MACHINE SENDS GRAPES ONE WAY

  • AND THE STEMS THIS WAY.

  • WHILE THE EMPHASIS ON QUALITY FEELS OLD-FASHIONED,

  • ALL THE LATEST MACHINERY IS EMPLOYED

  • AS THEY PRODUCE 70,000 BOTTLES A YEAR.

  • IT'S A LABOR-INTENSIVE INDUSTRY,

  • BUT RIGHT NOW, THE GRAPES ARE DOING ALL THE WORK

  • AS THEY FERMENT IN THESE HUGE OAK BARRELS.

  • AS THEY SHARE THEIR BRUNELLO, FATHER AND SON CENCIONI

  • SEEM TO UNDERSTAND THE HAPPINESS THEIR WORK BRINGS

  • TO WINE LOVERS ALL OVER THE WORLD.

  • [ speaking Italian ]

  • FULL-BODIED, YEAH.

  • IF ANYTHING CHARACTERIZES THE TUSCAN LIFESTYLE, IT'S A KNACK

  • FOR TAKING TIME TO SAVOR SIMPLE, UNCLUTTERED QUALITY,

  • WHETHER IT'S WINE, FOOD, ART

  • OR FRIENDSHIPS LIKE ROBERTO'S.

  • ASSISI, HOME OF ST. FRANCIS

  • AND A PLACE WHERE SIMPLE LIVING IS NOTHING NEW,

  • SITS ON A HILL JUST OUTSIDE OF TUSCANY IN NEIGHBORING UMBRIA.

  • AROUND THE YEAR 1200, FRANCIS, A SIMPLE FRIAR FROM ASSISI,

  • CHALLENGED THE DECADENCE OF CHURCH GOVERNMENT

  • AND SOCIETY IN GENERAL

  • WITH A POWERFUL MESSAGE OF NONMATERIALISM AND SIMPLICITY.

  • HIS "SLOW DOWN AND SMELL GOD'S ROSES" LIFESTYLE

  • DREW A HUGE FOLLOWING,

  • AND HIS TEACHINGS WERE GRADUALLY EMBRACED BY THE CHURCH.

  • THE STORY OF ST. FRANCIS STARTS HERE, BELOW ASSISI,

  • IN THE CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA DEGLI ANGELI.

  • ST. MARY OF THE ANGELS

  • IS ACTUALLY A CHURCH WITHIN A CHURCH.

  • WHEN THE POPE GAVE FRANCIS HIS BLESSING,

  • HE ALSO GAVE HIM THIS FIXER-UPPER CHAPEL.

  • THIS IS THE ACTUAL CHAPEL

  • THAT FRANCIS AND HIS FIRST FOLLOWERS REBUILT.

  • STEPPING INSIDE, PILGRIMS REMEMBER IT WAS HERE IN 1208

  • THAT FRANCIS ESTABLISHED THE FRANCISCAN ORDER.

  • A VISIT TO ASSISI SHOWS FRANCIS' MESSAGE OF LOVE

  • AND CARE FOR CREATION HAS A BROAD AND TIMELESS APPEAL.

  • AND EVEN NONRELIGIOUS TRAVELERS BECOME PILGRIMS OF A SORT

  • AS THEY EXPLORE THE TOWN AND REMEMBER ITALY'S PATRON SAINT.

  • ANY PILGRIMAGE SITE WILL BE COMMERCIALIZED,

  • AND ASSISI, WHICH CASHES IN ON THE LEGACY OF ST. FRANCIS,

  • IS NO EXCEPTION.

  • IN SUMMER, THE TOWN OVERFLOWS WITH FRANCIS FANS

  • AND A FLOOD OF FRANCISCAN KNICKKNACKS.

  • BUT THOSE ABLE TO SEE BEYOND THE TACKY FRIAR MEMENTOS

  • CAN ACTUALLY HAVE A MEANINGFUL EXPERIENCE.

  • MOST VISITORS HERE ARE DAY-TRIPPERS.

  • TO ENJOY A PEACEFUL ASSISI, SPEND THE NIGHT.

  • SEE IT EARLY OR LATE AND WANDER THE BACK LANES.

  • AS YOU EXPLORE, LOOK UP.

  • ASSISI HAS A BALCONY GARDEN COMPETITION EACH SUMMER.

  • MEDIEVAL ASSISI WAS DEFENDED BY A FORTRESS

  • THAT PROVIDED TOWNSFOLK A REFUGE IN TIMES OF ATTACK.

  • DOORWAYS WITH POINTED ARCHES INDICATE THAT THE BUILDINGS

  • DATE FROM THE 12th THROUGH THE 14th CENTURY.

  • THE VAULTS THAT TURN LANES INTO TUNNELS

  • ARE REMINDERS OF MEDIEVAL URBAN EXPANSION.

  • WHILE THE POPULATION GREW, PEOPLE WANTED TO LIVE SAFELY

  • WITHIN ASSISI'S FORTIFIED WALLS,

  • SO ASSISI BECAME MORE DENSE.

  • MEDIEVAL ASSISI HAD FIVE TIMES THE POPULATION DENSITY

  • OF THE TOWN TODAY.

  • THE TOWN'S WELCOMING MAIN SQUARE

  • IS AN INVITING PLACE TO RELAX.

  • AS IN MANY OLD EUROPEAN TOWNS,

  • TODAY TRAFFIC IS LIMITED TO TAXIS AND BUSES.

  • ASSISI HAS LONG BEEN A SPIRITUAL CENTER.

  • 2,000 YEARS AGO, THIS TEMPLE OF MINERVA

  • WAS A CENTERPIECE OF ROMAN ASSISI.

  • THE MAIN DRAG LEADS FROM THE TOWN CENTER TO THE BASILICA,

  • WHICH HOLDS THE MUCH-VENERATED BODY OF ST. FRANCIS.

  • FRANCIS WAS A BIG DEAL EVEN IN HIS OWN AGE.

  • HE WAS MADE A SAINT WITHIN A FEW YEARS OF HIS DEATH.

  • ASSISI BECAME A BUSY PILGRIMAGE CENTER,

  • AND THIS STREET WAS A BOOMING THOROUGHFARE.

  • THIS HOSPICE, BUILT IN 1237, GAVE PILGRIMS A PLACE TO REST.

  • AND ON THEIR WAY TO THE CHURCH,

  • PILGRIMS WOULD STOP HERE AT THE FOUNTAIN,

  • FOR A DRINK.

  • THE BASILICA OF ST. FRANCIS WAS BUILT BETWEEN 1228 AND 1253

  • OVER THE REMAINS OF THE BELOVED SAINT.

  • FOR THE LAST 750 YEARS,

  • IT'S BEEN ONE OF THE MOST VISITED PILGRIMAGE SITES

  • IN ALL OF CHRISTENDOM.

  • THE TOMB LIES ON THE LOWEST LEVEL OF THE BASILICA.

  • ITS HUMBLE ELEGANCE AND BEAUTY

  • BEFITS THE SAINT WHO PREACHED SIMPLICITY AND POVERTY.

  • HIS BODY BECAME ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT RELICS ANYWHERE.

  • TO MEDIEVAL CHRISTIANS, HOLY RELICS GAVE YOU POWER.

  • THEY ANSWERED YOUR PRAYERS, HELPED YOU WIN WARS

  • AND ULTIMATELY HELPED GET YOU TO HEAVEN.

  • THE BASILICA RISES IN TWO LEVELS ABOVE THE TOMB.

  • IT'S ONE OF THE ARTISTIC HIGHLIGHTS OF MEDIEVAL EUROPE

  • AND A THEOLOGICAL WORK OF GENIUS.

  • WITH ITS FINE ART,

  • IT STILL FUNCTIONS AS A SPLENDID CLASSROOM.

  • IT WAS FRESCOED FROM TOP TO BOTTOM

  • BY LEADING ARTISTS OF THE 13th CENTURY.

  • HERE IN THE LOWER BASILICA,

  • CIMABUE PAINTED WHAT IS CONSIDERED

  • THE EARLIEST AND MOST ACCURATE PORTRAYAL OF ST. FRANCIS.

  • THIS FRESCO IS BY GIOTTO,

  • A FOLLOWER OF ST. FRANCIS HIMSELF

  • AND THE MOST POWERFUL STORYTELLER OF HIS DAY.

  • IN THE 13th CENTURY, GIOTTO'S ART WAS RADICAL,

  • UNPRECEDENTED IN ITS REALISM,

  • BELIEVABLE, HOME-SPUN SCENES,

  • LANDSCAPES, TREES, REAL PEOPLE.

  • FOR THE FIRST TIME,

  • HOLY PEOPLE ARE EXPRESSING EMOTION.

  • ONE ANGEL TURNS HER HEAD SADLY AT THE SIGHT OF JESUS.

  • AND ANOTHER IS IN SUCH ANGUISH,

  • SHE SCRATCHES HER HANDS DOWN HER CHEEKS, DRAWING BLOOD.

  • MARY, UNTIL THIS FRESCO ALWAYS PORTRAYED IN CONTROL,

  • HAS FAINTED IN DESPAIR.

  • THE FRANCISCAN MONKS,

  • WITH THEIR GOAL OF BRINGING GOD TO THE PEOPLE,

  • FOUND A NATURAL PARTNER IN EUROPE'S FIRST MODERN PAINTER:

  • GIOTTO.

  • THE UPPER BASILICA, BUILT SHORTLY AFTER THE LOWER,

  • WAS THE FIRST GOTHIC CHURCH IN ITALY.

  • IT'S BRIGHTER AND NEARLY WALLPAPERED

  • BY GIOTTO AND HIS ASSISTANTS.

  • THE NAVE SHOWS 28 SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF ST. FRANCIS.

  • WHILE THE 13th CENTURY WAS A TROUBLED TIME,

  • FRANCISCAN FRIARS,

  • WHO WERE ACTUALLY KNOWN AS JUGGLERS OF GOD,

  • WERE A JOYFUL PART OF THEIR COMMUNITY.

  • IN A LAND TORN BY FIGHTING, FRANCIS PROMOTED PEACE.

  • HE ALSO CHALLENGED THE EXCESSES OF THE CHURCH

  • AND MADE ITS MESSAGE MORE ACCESSIBLE TO COMMON PEOPLE.

  • FRANCIS' MESSAGE OF NONMATERIALISM

  • RATTLED THE WEALTHY AND POWERFUL.

  • HERE GIOTTO SHOWS A NEARLY NAKED FRANCIS,

  • THE RICH KID TOSSING HIS FANCY CLOTHES TO HIS FATHER,

  • BEFUDDLING HIGH SOCIETY

  • BY TRADING A LIFE OF POWER AND LUXURY

  • FOR ONE OF SIMPLICITY AND POVERTY.

  • BUT ULTIMATELY, EVEN THE POPE RECOGNIZED THAT FRANCIS

  • COULD RESTORE A CHURCH AND SOCIETY IN NEED OF REFORM.

  • PERHAPS THE MOST ENDEARING SCENE

  • SHOWS FRANCIS PREACHING TO THE BIRDS.

  • BUT FRANCIS WAS MORE THAN A NATURE LOVER.

  • THE VARIOUS BIRDS REPRESENT THE DIVERSE FLOCK

  • OF HUMANITY AND NATURE,

  • ALL CREATED AND LOVED BY GOD

  • AND WORTHY OF EACH OTHER'S LOVE.

  • TRAVEL FAR FROM HOME CAN HELP YOU BETTER UNDERSTAND

  • WHAT HOME IS ALL ABOUT.

  • WHETHER WANDERING THROUGH ANCIENT OLIVE GROVES,

  • CLIMBING MEDIEVAL TOWERS,

  • OR DINING SLOW IN A TUSCAN VILLA,

  • TRAVEL TEACHES AND REWARDS.

  • I LIKE TO REFLECT ON THESE IDEAS IN A PLACE LIKE THIS,

  • ENJOYING THE SAME BIRDSONG AND VAST TUSCAN AND UMBRIAN VIEWS

  • THAT ST. FRANCIS DID 800 YEARS AGO.

  • THANKS FOR JOINING US.

  • I'M RICK STEVES.

  • UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELIN'.

  • CIAO.

  • MANGIA, MANGIA.

  • MANGIA, MANGIA, MANGIA, MANGIA.

  • OHH!

  • HE'S THE FATHER OF ALL.

  • [ WOMAN SPEAKING ITALIAN ]

  • HE'S A LITTLE BIT NUTTY.

  • I'M COMING.

HI, I'M RICK STEVES, BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.

Subtitles and vocabulary

Click the word to look it up Click the word to find further inforamtion about it