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  • To the End of the World

  • Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port is a small town in

  • southwest France, sitting in the foothills

  • of the Pyrenees mountains.

  • It would be totally unknown if it weren't for the fact

  • that it's the traditional starting point for the

  • Camino de Santiago, a 540-mile historic pilgrimage

  • across northern Spain.

  • That's why I ended up there, anyway.

  • Okay, so I just got the pilgrims' credencial.

  • It's a passport that you use on the Camino.

  • Normally, my brother and I meet every year

  • for a backpacking adventure.

  • Hank: We've made it to the top of the North Rim

  • of the Grand Canyon on January 1st!

  • But he couldn't do it this year because he got married

  • and needed his vacation time for his honeymoon.

  • So, sad that I'd be walking alone,

  • I decided to head out on the Camino de Santiago by myself

  • with a plan to walk all the way across Spain

  • to a lighthouse on the ocean.

  • This is the door to Spain and the Napoleon Route.

  • So, onto the Pyrenees!

  • People come from all over the world to walk the Camino

  • and a lot of them want their Caminos to be inward, spiritual journeys

  • as well as physical ones.

  • (Brock Currie) I'm doing the Camino because

  • the Camino is happening from here to here.

  • And, walking the Camino with so many other international

  • representatives of the world gives me a great deal of hope.

  • And I find myself marveling at

  • the beauty of the common spirit.

  • I'm not exactly sure why I'm doing the Camino de Santiago.

  • Really, the main reason is just for the adventure.

  • So, I'm not sure if I really believe

  • in the transformative aspect of it.

  • On the first day, I took the Napoleon Route,

  • a notoriously difficult, 25-kilometer climb over the Pyrenees.

  • It is pretty tiring. It's straight uphill the whole way.

  • If it anyone tells you the Camino de Santiago is easy, it is not.

  • It's quite a view up here though.

  • And it wasn't long before my fears

  • of being lonely disappeared.

  • These guys are hiking with me. This is

  • Katie, Mosta, and Grant & Ashley.

  • And, we are halfway to Pamplona!

  • But, by day three, I realized that, maybe, sitting in an office

  • for six months wasn't the best way to train for this trip.

  • It's a beautiful morning here.

  • This is supposed to be the easiest day so far, so,

  • that should help because

  • I have horrible blisters on the bottom of my feet.

  • I'm on the way to Pamplona, and I have three blisters

  • that are like pressure blisters on the bottom of my feet

  • and they hurt like a-- like crazy. Ugh.

  • Why am I doing this?

  • I mean, if it's this painful the whole time,

  • there's going to be some serious questions that need to be asked about

  • whether I really need to go the full 35 days.

  • But, wow, my feet hurt right now.

  • But, I was almost to Pamplona, so I kept going.

  • So, I'm here with Ky, a friend of mine from Germany.

  • We're hiking here through the city of Pamplona.

  • The strange thing about this is that we've been hiking

  • across the Spanish countryside, now, for days,

  • and, suddenly, we've just walked right into a huge city.

  • And there's music everywhere,

  • and it's pretty jolting and strange.

  • But, my feet hurt like crazy.

  • But I was happy I made there.

  • We've been having a picnic in the Pamplona park here

  • with some tasty...

  • (Ashley) ...morsels!

  • (Hank) Grant, how excited are you about this sandwich?!

  • Grant: Aw, yeah!

  • (Hank) Ashley, are you excited for this sandwich?

  • Ashley: Oh, yeah!

  • (Hank) Katie, how is it?

  • Katie: Number one sandwich.

  • So, I'm here in a restaurant here in Pamplona,

  • and, as you can see, we've finished

  • one, two, three, four, five, six

  • pitchers of Sangria!

  • (Hank) Katie, how are you feeling right now?

  • Amazing!

  • Uh, yeah. We've been drinking sangria all afternoon and

  • suddenly we have more energy than we've ever had on the Camino.

  • We're ready to do a whole other stage this afternoon.

  • (Hank) Ky, what do you think of the--

  • what do you think of the sangria?

  • It's pretty good.

  • But, in the morning, my blisters were so painful,

  • I could barely walk.

  • There was no way I could keep up with

  • Katie, Ky, Mosta, Grant & Ashley,

  • and they quickly left me behind.

  • It's the morning of day four, and things are

  • not looking good for me right now.

  • My blisters on my feet hurt so much.

  • I'm not sure I can hike today.

  • I'm going to start trying to hike and see how far I can get.

  • One of the things that's really interesting about the Camino

  • is the transitory nature of the relationships you have with

  • the people that you meet on the trail.

  • You're hiking and everyone hikes at different speeds

  • so you might meet someone on the trail

  • and you really like them; they seem great. But,

  • turns out they're hiking a lot faster than you,

  • and, suddenly, you talk to them for 10 minutes, and then

  • you walk away ahead of them, and you realize you may

  • never see them again for the rest of your life.

  • But, I kept going.

  • My feet hurt so much that I was walking at a quarter

  • of my normal speed, but at least I made it to the next town.

  • I've only walked half the day today from Pamplona,

  • but my feet just can't take it anymore; the blisters are so bad.

  • So, I'm going to stay here overnight and see how that goes.

  • I'm really pissed off and disappointed.

  • But my foot pain turned out to be a

  • blessing in disguise that day.

  • Stuck in town, I met up with Amalie.

  • I was really angry yesterday because

  • my blisters were hurting like crazy

  • and I only walked half the day.

  • But, I put threads and needles in my blisters yesterday:

  • tried to drain them out.

  • So, today I'm here with Amalie.

  • Amalie: Hi!

  • Hank: Who you can see right there.

  • And we're going to try to hike and see if my feet work.

  • Amalie and I walked together through rolling hills,

  • blanketed with thousands of green stalks of wheat,

  • shivering in the breeze.

  • When she told me that she was a medical student

  • walking the Camino to decide on her specialty

  • and to find an American's Netflix password to steal,

  • our shared sense of humor made us best friends

  • almost immediately.

  • (Hank) What are you eating?

  • Oh, you're video taping this?

  • (Hank) Mm hm.

  • I'm eating a snack pepper. That is some thing.

  • That's a thing.

  • (Hank) How long-- how many days have you been

  • carrying that in your pack?

  • I'd rather not tell.

  • But, with every step, my blisters only got worse.

  • Things have gotten pretty desperate here on the Camino.

  • We're taking these pads,

  • which are usually used for something else,

  • and we're trying to put them in our shoes

  • to make the blisters go away by reducing moisture.

  • I have no idea if this is going to work,

  • but, anything that could work, we're trying.

  • I'm here with Amalie.

  • I'm at the Centro de Salud which is the

  • health center here.

  • My blisters have gotten so bad on my feet that

  • I am ready to cut off my feet but instead of

  • cutting off my feet, I thought I would try

  • going to the Spanish doctor and see what

  • they want to do, especially because I want to make sure

  • it's not infected.

  • I have two nurses fixing my feet.

  • So, hopefully, I will be able to walk again soon.

  • But, boy, it hurts.

  • While the nurses worked to bandage and clean my feet,

  • the doctor was clear with me about one thing:

  • I had to stop walking for three days.

  • It's a pretty sad day on the Camino.

  • Amalie couldn't stop her Camino just because

  • my feet were hurting, so she had to hike out this morning.

  • And, so, I had to have a sad moment where

  • we said goodbye, and I may never see her again.

  • I meet people traveling all the time, but

  • there is something special about Amalie

  • that I can't quite quantify.

  • There's something pure about her spirit,

  • and inspiring about her that made me want to stay with her.

  • So, it's really hard to have to say goodbye to her.

  • Even though we only hiked together for three days,

  • it feels like we're already very good friends, and,

  • the idea of never seeing her again seems terrible.

  • It's very hard to let go of that feeling

  • of not wanting to let people go,

  • not wanting to let people get away.

  • I always have the sense of wanting to say,

  • "Well, if I never see you again for the rest of your life,

  • it was great meeting you!"

  • in a way that's kind of weird, and

  • you can't really say to someone you just met.

  • But, you want to because

  • you want to just appreciate the people in the moment.

  • The Camino really forces you to appreciate that moment

  • because that moment's fleeting.

  • In just a minute,

  • the person you're talking to will be gone,

  • and you may never see them again.

  • And, so, you just have to relish

  • that moment that you have.

  • (Gardur) This is the third Camino in three years.

  • I'm doing 1,800 kilometers

  • and that's because of my fiancé.

  • I did the Camino in 2007,

  • and, after one or two days, I met her.

  • I just saw her neck!

  • I fell in love with her neck!

  • I approached her, and

  • we walked the Camino together.

  • And then there was no contact in eight years.

  • And then we both decided to do the Camino.

  • Separately. So she contacted me on Facebook.

  • So, we said, "Let's see if the

  • feelings are still there."

  • And they are.

  • After letting my blisters heal for two days in Estella,

  • I started walking the Camino again by myself.

  • Well, it's a different kind of day on the Camino today.

  • I'm the only person I've seen hiking the Camino

  • the whole day.

  • And, I'm in tens of miles of wheat fields

  • that just go on forever.

  • And, it's a very different

  • experience, which gives me a lot of time

  • to kind of think to myself and relax.

  • I spoke to a man from Iceland, and

  • he has walked the Camino every year, I think,

  • for the past eight years.

  • And he says that every time he does the Camino,

  • he gets closer to his true self.

  • Hiking today through these miles and miles

  • of wheat fields by myself,

  • I can kind of understand how

  • maybe if you just do this a lot,

  • you become more and more at peace with

  • who you are, and you really get to understand

  • what you're thinking and feeling

  • and how that affects you.

  • This is one of the prettiest parts of the Camino so far.

  • I'm the only one out here today,

  • because I left very late because of my feet.

  • So, it's a little bit lonely, but it's just gorgeous.

  • It's been an extremely long day, but

  • I'm at Logroño, which means: 100 miles!

  • I've hiked 100 miles across Spain,

  • which means I only have about 450 miles to go.

  • My feet hurt like crazy, but

  • I'm glad to have made it.

  • So, I've made a decision.

  • After hiking maybe 20 miles today,

  • I'm still having blister problems,

  • so I've decided:

  • I'm going to try for new shoes.

  • I'm going to switch from boots to trailrunners

  • and we'll see what happens.

  • Jerzy: We are doing the Camino the second time,

  • because we forgot how the first time was painful.

  • Sylwia: Yeah, we are doing this from the sentiment.

  • Jerzy: And just to be here. Because

  • we don't know why we are here, but

  • we know that we need to be here.

  • So, after about a day and a half or two of bad weather

  • the sun's finally peeking out from these clouds.

  • There's a beautiful lake here just above Logroño.

  • And, things are looking up.

  • My shoes -- my new shoes

  • are working way better than my old ones.

  • Oh my God, my feet feel like they're walking on pillows.

  • My new shoes made it possible for me to keep pace

  • with Hannah and Arnaud, an adorable couple

  • who'd been walking 1,000 kilometers together

  • after starting their Camino in central France.

  • They were clearly in love, and even though

  • they had been walking for over a month

  • and still had nearly a month to go,

  • their enthusiam for their journey was infectious.

  • This is a five to six week walk across a country

  • and when a trip is that long, you can't really see

  • the end for so long.

  • The length of the Camino makes you

  • shift your thinking to just living in

  • the moment and thinking, "This is my life now.

  • Walking everyday on the Camino

  • is my life." Because, there's nothing else.

  • You can't see anything else.

  • After overnighting injera,

  • I joined forces with Australians

  • Christianne and Claire until I received a text

  • message from an old friend, telling me to

  • meet her in the next town.

  • Reuben: ...I've got a love that keeps me waiting... ♪

  • ♪ ...I've got a love that keeps me waiting... ♪

  • ♪ ...because I'm a lonely boy... ♪

  • ♪ ...I'm a lonely boy... ♪

  • Reuben: My reason to do the Camino is just

  • to meet new people -- just want to

  • play some songs for myself and to all the pilgrims

  • and that's why I've got a

  • guitar, carrying with me.

  • It's heavy though.

  • I see the smiles on people's faces.

  • It has helped them a lot

  • to get through -- to get to Santiago.

  • And that really means much to me.

  • It's the morning of day 13.

  • Last night, I got to hang out by the pool

  • and listen to some nice guitar playing.

  • I'm here with Amalie this morning

  • whose foot was hurt, but now she's

  • going to try to hike for the first time in two days.

  • Reunited, Amalie and I continued together

  • across the Spanish countryside.

  • Soon, we reached the city of Burgos,

  • where we decided to take a day to relax.

  • So, I'm here on my rest day in Burgos,

  • and I'm at one of the most beautiful

  • churches that I've seen on this whole

  • pilgrimage so far.

  • So, we're at the Rice Palace Hotel in Burgos,

  • and I really wanted to have a nice hotel room

  • and some good breakfast.

  • I'm eating my first donut ever.

  • (Hank) In your whole life?

  • Yeah, I think so.

  • (Hank) Are you scared?

  • A little bit.

  • Good.

  • (Hank) Why'd you eat it with a fork?

  • Because I'm so sophisticated.

  • I'm supposed to do it like this?

  • (Hank) Exactly.

  • And that is what happens when a Danish girl

  • eats a donut for the first time.

  • After Burgos, we began hiking across the Meseta,

  • Spain's hot desert highlands.

  • On the way, I began reading a book

  • about a couple on an epic journey,

  • whose love is tested when they have to

  • individually recount the most cherished memories

  • of their relationship.

  • (Amalie) We're about to dip our feet

  • in the magic fountain of San Bol.

  • And, apparently, if you do this,

  • all your feet pain goes away.

  • I joked to Amalie that we had better

  • be sure to have memorable adventures,

  • in case we were tested at the Camino's end

  • like in my book.

  • But, we already seemed to be

  • well on our way.

  • (Hank) Ah! It's so cold. It's so cold.

  • I can't do it. I can't do it.

  • Let's stop. Let's go home.

  • I don't wanna do it anymore.

  • It's freezing! It's like ice!

  • (Amalie) Come on you wuss, suck it up.

  • (Hank) I mean, it's fine.

  • It's restoring me to health.

  • (Amalie) Oh yeah, it's feels magic.

  • Because of the nature of the Camino,

  • people become very close very fast.

  • If you spend a week with someone

  • on the Camino,

  • you can end up spending 70 hours with them,

  • which is a lot more time than I've spent

  • with most of my best friends

  • in the last six months.

  • Along the way, we devised a condiment strategy.

  • Although there are french fries all over Spain,

  • they're, for some reason, never served with ketchup,

  • which seems like a big waste and disappointment to us.

  • But now, something very excited has happened.

  • Amalie has purchased a bottle of Heinz ketchup

  • and has been carrying it with her

  • for miles and miles and miles.

  • Oh yeah. This is the purpose of fries.

  • We figured out how to stay in shape.

  • And one. And two. And three. And four.

  • When you're on the Camino,

  • yep, you're walking about 15 to 20 miles a day,

  • but you gotta keep those arms in shape too.

  • Gotta get in shape!

  • It's the only way I'm going to make it to the end.

  • On this machine, whatever it is,

  • I need to exercise the muscles that

  • this machine exercises.

  • Okay, well, I think I got it finished.

  • Oh, Jesus.

  • We found singing nuns.

  • ♪ (Nuns) Now, I'm found... ♪

  • And we celebrated a special milestone.

  • Amalie: We're halfway to Santiago!

  • Hank: We made it halfway! Halfway!

  • Hank: Cartwheel!

  • Hank: Oh jeez, that's hard.

  • (Hank) Buenos dias.

  • And all of that was before we landed for a

  • sightseeing day in the city of León.

  • They have ham chips.

  • Like Pringles have a flavor that is ham.

  • Everything in Spain is made out of

  • some kind of pig meat.

  • I found a store filled with many wonderful things,

  • including this magical hat.

  • After leaving León,

  • Amalie's dream was to visit the chocolate

  • factory in Astorga, which our guidebook

  • said was open until 4 PM in the afternoon.

  • So, we walked faster than we ever had

  • to make sure we'd make it in time,

  • practically running through the medieval town

  • of Hospitál de Órbigo...

  • Just when my blisters are feeling a lot better,

  • now I sprained my ankle. I think I've

  • pretty much gone through every possible

  • foot injury that you could have on the Camino.

  • ...eating a lightning fast meal...

  • We found this little fruit stand.

  • What an amazing treat to have a

  • yummy nectarine and some watermelon.

  • Now we have to head off as fast as possible

  • to get to that chocolate museum before it closes!

  • ...and tackling the mountains above Astorga.

  • (Hank) What just happened?

  • We just walked for 30 kilometers

  • and we walked really fast because we

  • wanted to get to this chocolate museum in Astorga,

  • that, according to the guidebook we have,

  • is open until 4 on a Sunday.

  • We're here, and it's 3 o'clock now,

  • and they're closed damn it!

  • They've been closed for an hour.

  • Aw, that is so typical.

  • No chocolate for us.

  • But I wasn't too disappointed.

  • Creating another cherished memory with Amalie,

  • sprinting across the Meseta over medieval bridges

  • seemed just as good.

  • (Father Dave Nix) I'm a priest from Denver, Colorado,

  • leading a group of students from

  • Colorado State University.

  • I think we're supposed to have one main

  • reason we know we're walking.

  • Even people I meet who don't really have

  • faith in God.

  • I heard of one guy who is walking for his wife

  • who is blind who

  • doesn't really have faith but still hopes

  • for some type of healing.

  • My answer is I haven't internally figured it out.

  • I still don't know why the Lord wants me

  • to do it.

  • I know that a lot of people are doing the Camino

  • because they feel like they're at a crossroads

  • in their life,

  • and they're here to figure out which direction

  • to go in with their life or to make an important decision.

  • Or, they have a huge problem in their life that

  • they're trying to solve.

  • And, I feel a bit disingenuous because

  • usually when people ask me why I do the Camino,

  • I say it's because I go on a lot of adventure hikes,

  • and this is one I hadn't done yet.

  • But, the fact is, you know, my life isn't

  • perfect at all.

  • Sometimes I wonder whether the job I'm doing

  • is the job I want to be doing for

  • the rest of my life.

  • I'm not married.

  • I don't have the amount of money I'd like to have.

  • So, there's all these open ends and questions

  • about my life, and I have no idea what to do about them.

  • It's about 4:30 in the morning,

  • and this morning, we're off to Cruz de Ferro,

  • but we're doing it in the dark so that we can

  • see the sunrise

  • from the top of the second-highest point,

  • almost the highest point,

  • on the Camino de Santiago.

  • I'm here with Amalie

  • and a man I know only as "Sensei."

  • (Sensei) I'm the Camino with three other people

  • and two of them I met on the Appalchian Trail

  • from Georgia to Maine (in six months), and that was

  • 18 years ago.

  • I'm doing the Camino because I thought it was a

  • good time, now, being 58 years old

  • to decide what I want to do with the rest of my life.

  • So, I'm looking for inspiration.

  • As the sun began to rise, Amalie, Sensei, and I

  • climbed toward the iron cross at the top

  • of the mountain, with stones in our packs.

  • For centuries, pilgrims have carried the rocks

  • representing their burdens,

  • all the way from their homes, to Cruz Ferro.

  • Where, in a ritual both literal and figurative,

  • they leave their stones and burdens behind,

  • before continuing back down.

  • We've made it to the Cruz de Ferro,

  • which is the second-highest point on the Camino.

  • It was a very nice hike coming up here.

  • At the top, Amalie told me that our

  • sunrise climb to Cruz de Ferro was one of the

  • most beautiful adventures of her life.

  • And, as we stood together on the

  • huge mound of symbolic burdens, shed by

  • pilgrims on the Camino over thousands of years,

  • it was hard to deny that the mistakes and failures

  • of my own life seemed a little bit smaller.

  • For me, as we began descending the mountain,

  • it felt like the start of a brand new day.

  • (Min) I walked the Camino in 2007,

  • and, I never thought I could do it again.

  • But now, I'm in a divorce.

  • So, suddenly, I could.

  • And, back then, I fell in love

  • with someone from Iceland.

  • And, when my divorce was there,

  • Gardur, is the guy from Iceland,

  • he came in my head because

  • we fell in love back then.

  • I found him on Facebook,

  • and then we made an appointment to meet

  • the 5th of May in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

  • and, now, we are walking again.

  • We're being followed by, I don't know,

  • 10 Spanish guys who are singing childhood

  • Spanish songs which we don't know,

  • but, they're very entertaining.

  • And we continue on, on the Camino, on

  • one of the most beautiful days.

  • We've had direct, super hot sun for the last

  • five days or so, and now, it's nice and cool,

  • and misty and mysterious. It's like we're

  • in a mysterious medieval kingdom.

  • (Hank) We're at a hotel in Galicia,

  • and there's a crazy rainstorm which

  • turned into a huge hailstorm.

  • You can see huge pieces of hail everywhere.

  • (Owner) I need to close the door, young man.

  • (Hank) Whoa! That's crazy!

  • Despite everything we were sharing together,

  • there was one thing Amalie and I both knew

  • but wouldn't talk about.

  • We were closing in Santiago very quickly,

  • and our Camino was about to be over.

  • The Camino is interesting because it structures

  • your life in the sense that everyday you wake up

  • just about the same time,

  • and you start walking.

  • Only 100 kilometers left! We've done almost 700!

  • ...and you walk for about 8 hours.

  • Then, you stop. You relax for a little bit.

  • You eat dinner. You go to sleep.

  • You wake up. You do the same thing all over again.

  • You just do it for five or six weeks straight.

  • As you do it more and more,

  • you start to forget what your life was like

  • before you were doing the Camino...

  • We are 30k from Santiago,

  • and we're trying pilgrim beer here.

  • ...I can't remember what it was like

  • to not wake up everyday

  • and walk and walk and walk.

  • I'm not sure how I'm going to handle it

  • when I get back to Los Angeles,

  • and my life is completely different.

  • No longer will it just be getting up and walking.

  • It's hard to imagine life not being like that, now.

  • This is it. We're on our way to Santiago.

  • We're going to get there in about three hours.

  • This is a very exciting day.

  • There's lots of people on the trail.

  • Amalie: It's like this is Camino Christmas.

  • The number of people is growing as we

  • near Santiago. We have about 12 kilometers

  • remaining, and we're walking by the

  • Santiago airport right now.

  • We're walking down the street in Santiago!

  • Okay, I see two towers

  • with crosses on them!

  • (Amalie) So, it might be the top of the cathedral!

  • But, we're only just looking in bakeries,

  • because the bakeries look like --

  • We just are so hungry!

  • (Amalie) But we can't stop, because

  • the pilgrims' mass starts in half an hour,

  • and we have to be there.

  • (Hank) We have to get to the mass.

  • We met a nun in Santiago who told us

  • that she thought the Camino is God's dream

  • for how people should be

  • when they're with each other.

  • And, I couldn't help but notice that we were

  • watching 1,000 people, all share the best

  • moment of their lives together,

  • right before our eyes.

  • To my surprise, the clerk in Santiago

  • didn't even ask us to describe a single

  • cherished memory from the trip.

  • (Clerk) And, your motivations for walking the Camino:

  • were they religious or spiritual?

  • (Hank) Spiritual.

  • Ta-da! I have got my Compostela certificate.

  • But, my dream was always to walk

  • to the ocean and lighthouse in Finisterre,

  • a Latin name for the end of the world.

  • And, so, we kept walking.

  • So, this is it.

  • This is the last night on the Camino.

  • I'm in Olveiroa, which is the final stop

  • before reaching Finisterre.

  • And, um, it's just, uh, I'm,

  • I'm happy to not have to walk for a few days

  • after this, but I'm very, very sad that this

  • trip's going to be ending.

  • It's been an amazing trip,

  • and the only thing I can think about is,

  • "How do I do this again and again?"

  • I can't imagine a life where I'm not doing this

  • as much as I can,

  • because it's just a beautiful night,

  • and it's been a beautiful adventure,

  • and I can't believe it's going to be over tomorrow.

  • But, I'll make it to the sea,

  • and to the end of the world.

  • So, we're walking down the trail here,

  • we've walked close to 880 kilometers,

  • about 550 miles.

  • It's a lot of rain today,

  • but, suddenly, woo!

  • We've got to the ocean!

  • Check it out!

  • There's the ocean in front of us!

  • We've walked across all of Spain

  • and we've made it to the sea!

  • Amalie: Woo!

  • (Hank) Woohoo! The ocean!

  • I'm not religious, but

  • when I looked out at the sunset with Amalie,

  • I knew that the nun was right about

  • the Camino being God's dream

  • for how people should be when

  • they're with each other,

  • and I was heartbroken

  • that we were about to wake up.

To the End of the World

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