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  • Hi Folks,

  • I wanted to do a quick into on this video. A couple of months ago, I put in this swirl

  • filter to collect some of the solids and it's been working very well so far. But the biggest

  • problems that I've been having is that I need to clean it out every day. Otherwise the waste

  • that's in there gets pretty nasty very quickly. It also dumps out about 2.5 gallons of water

  • every time that I do that. So, after a month it adds up to a lot of water usage. I added

  • a mineralisation tank, which is back here into the system and my goal with it is to

  • only to do maintenance on the system once a week. I usually just do work on the greenhouse

  • over the weekend and don't want to have to come down and keep working every day on flushing

  • out the system.

  • So this is the design that I came up with. Now this is an experiment so I'm not sure

  • in the long term how well it's going to work. but for the last month it's been doing quite

  • well for itself. I haven't had to do any maintenance on it expect for just a little bit of cleaning

  • here and there. Usually just on the weekends and about every two weeks I've been taking

  • some of the solids out of the materialization tank. And it probably doesn't really need

  • it that often but I was just sort of experimenting to see what it looked like in there. so this

  • is what I've come up with. I'm not sure if other people have done it the same way, so,

  • I issue credit where credit is due in the comments if someone else has come up with

  • a design like this. Thanks for watching!

  • If you haven’t seen the original video for the swirl filter, I’ll leave a link to it.

  • For clarity of the new design, I’ll rearrange the diagram a bit, but none of the original

  • plumbing has changed.

  • First is to add a new tank. The water level will be the same height as the swirl filter.

  • My tank is a factory reject and it wasn’t quite high enough so I set it on a block foundation.

  • I then added a new bulkhead fitting and valve for the solids waste discharge. I set it up

  • high enough so that it could drain into a 5-gallon bucket.

  • The waste line of the swirl filter is connected to the mineralisation tank with a 3/4” tube.

  • If I was able to set the swirl and mineralisation tanks closer, I probably would have used a

  • larger and short pipe, but I was concerned about the solids taking too long to get to

  • the mineralisation tank and becoming anaerobic. By having a smaller volume tube, the solids

  • will move quicker out of this area, but I do run the risk of it getting clogged with

  • a larger obstruction.

  • The outlet pipe is actually set slightly above the normal water level so it will only drain

  • if there is some freak overflow event and there is a baffle around it to keep surface

  • debris from going into the drain. The key is this 1/4" hole drilled about two inches

  • below the normal surface. This allows for the clean water to weep from the tank. This

  • is just enough flow to keep the solids moving through the fill tube.

  • To keep most of the solids from going into the drain, a settling tank is added. The water

  • enters through the bottom of the cone and since it moves so slowly in this tank, the

  • average water turnover is well over an hour so there is plenty of time for the solids

  • to settle and work their way back out through the cone bottom. A protective baffle was also

  • added under the cone’s tip to help prevent rouge air bubbles from entering into the settling

  • tank and stirring up the water. I had gone through a few settling tanks, starting with

  • a milk jug, then a 2.5 gallon jug, but they didn’t provide enough volume and time for

  • settling. If I had the parts, I probably would have made a taller settling tank and had the

  • cone come within an inch of the bottom of the mineralisation tank.

  • To remove the solids from the bottom of the tank, I took a pieces of 3/4" tubing and attached

  • it to the waste line. I also made a little skimmer attachment for it and mounted it to

  • a handle to make it easier to move it around the bottom. I also dropped a couple of air

  • stones in the bottom to keep the water well aerated and moving.

  • When it’s time to remove the solids, I shut off the intake valve and air stones and let

  • the system settle for an hour, then open the waste valve and suck out some of the solids.

  • I could let the waste bucket settle out and return some of the water back to the system,

  • but I just dump it around some of the fruit trees.

  • An alternate design consideration would be to have the mineralisation tank also be a

  • cone bottom which would make it much easier to quickly purge the solids.

  • Looking inside the sump tank, this is water that’s coming directly from the fish tank,

  • the swirl filter, and the trickle from the mineralisation tank. From here, it is pumped

  • into the media beds which are used as the biofilter and capture any remaining solids.

  • A system like this could easily be changed so that the water could drain directly into

  • the grow beds instead of being pumped.

  • One other thing I’ve been experimenting with is adding bio filter media. Instead of

  • spending a fortune on K1, I’m using some of the old HDPE pieces from the old plastic

  • extruder I made a few years ago. Unfortunately, the narrow strips have been working their

  • way into the settling tank area and floating to the surface. I keeping working on this

  • Another problem that I’ve run into is when I feed the fish scrap lettuce. The digested

  • lettuce still has fairly large pieces and tends to float, getting trapped at the top

  • of the settle tank. It’s easy enough to skim it off, but my goal is to minimize maintenance

  • with this.

  • Overall, I’m happy with the design. A few minor alterations will be needed, but in the

  • long term, it should work well.

  • Thanks for watching!

Hi Folks,

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