BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.

THIS TIME, WE'RE IN THE LAND OF MOZART.

IT'S SALZBURG.

THANKS FOR JOINING US.

SALZBURG IS FOREVER SMILING

TO THE TUNES OF MOZART AND THE SOUND OF MUSIC.

THANKS TO ITS CHARMING OLD TOWN,

SPLENDID BAROQUE CHURCHES,

ONE OF EUROPE'S LARGEST MEDIEVAL FORTRESSES,

AND SO MANY GREAT PLACES NEARBY,

SALZBURG FEELS DESIGNED TO KEEP ITS VISITORS HAPPY.

IN SALZBURG WE'LL EXPLORE ITS DELIGHTFUL OLD TOWN,

ENJOY MOZART IN A PALACE,

AND RELAX IN A SUN-DAPPLED BEER GARDEN.

THEN WE'LL SETTLE INTO A FARMHOUSE B&B,

SURVIVE A MOUNTAIN LUGE RUN,

AND CRUISE TO ONE OF THE JEWELS

OF AUSTRIA'S LAKE DISTRICT.

SITTING IN THE CENTER OF EUROPE IS AUSTRIA.

FROM OUR HOME BASE IN SALZBURG, WE SIDE-TRIP

INTO THE SALZKAMMERGUT LAKE DISTRICT --

LAKE HALLSTATT,

AND THE TOWN BY THE SAME NAME.

SALZBURG IS STEEPED IN HISTORY.

IN THE YEAR 700, ITS BAVARIAN RULERS GAVE CONTROL OF SALZBURG

TO THE LOCAL BISHOP IN RETURN FOR HIS PROMISE

TO DEFEND AND EXPAND CHRISTIANITY IN THE AREA.

SALZBURG REMAINED AN INDEPENDENT STATE FOR OVER A THOUSAND YEARS,

UNTIL IT SURRENDERED TO NAPOLEON.

THANKS TO ITS FORMIDABLE FORTRESS

AND ITS KNACK FOR REMAINING NEUTRAL,

THE CITY MANAGED TO AVOID THE RAVAGES OF WAR

UNTIL WORLD WAR II.

WHILE MUCH OF THE NEW PART OF TOWN --

ON THE FAR SIDE OF THE RIVER --

WAS DESTROYED BY WORLD WAR II BOMBS,

THE HISTORIC OLD TOWN SURVIVED.

THE NEW TOWN HAS

THE BIG BUSINESS AND TRAIN STATION,

BUT THE OLD TOWN, SITTING BETWEEN

THE SALZACH RIVER AND A HILL CALLED MONCHSBERG,

HOLDS NEARLY ALL THE CHARM AND MOST OF THE TOURISTS.

WITH AROUND EIGHT MILLION VISITORS

PROWLING ITS COBBLED LANES EACH YEAR,

SALZBURG CAN FEEL PRETTY TOURISTY.

YOU DON'T GO TO SALZBURG TO AVOID THE TOURISTS.

YOU GO TO EXPERIENCE A TOWN WHICH, IN SPITE OF ITS CROWDS,

IS THOROUGHLY ENJOYABLE.

MOST OF THE HAPPY TOURISTS PROBABLY WOULDN'T BE HERE

IF NOT FOR THE MAN HONORED BY THIS STATUE.

WOLFGANG MOZART SPENT

MUCH OF HIS FIRST 25 YEARS IN SALZBURG --

ONE OF THE GREATEST BAROQUE CITIES NORTH OF THE ALPS.

FOR CENTURIES, SALZBURG'S LEADERS WERE BOTH

IMPORTANT CHURCH AUTHORITIES AND POLITICAL RULERS.

THEY WERE "PRINCE-ARCHBISHOPS,"

COMBINING BOTH POLITICAL AND RELIGIOUS POWER.

THE ENERGETIC PRINCE-ARCHBISHOP WOLF DIETRICH,

WHO RULED AROUND THE YEAR 1600,

HAD THE GREATEST IMPACT ON THE TOWN.

WOLF DIETRICH WAS RAISED IN ROME,

COUNTED THE POWERFUL MEDICIS IN FLORENCE AS HIS BUDDIES,

AND HAD GRANDIOSE ITALIAN AMBITIONS FOR SALZBURG.

HIS GOAL -- TO BUILD "THE ROME OF THE NORTH."

THIS SQUARE, WITH ITS STRIKING CATHEDRAL

AND ITALIAN-STYLE PALACE,

WAS THE CENTERPIECE OF HIS BAROQUE DREAM CITY.

A SERIES OF INTERCONNECTING SQUARES

LEAD FROM HERE THROUGH THE OLD TOWN.

THIS FOUNTAIN COULD BE STRAIGHT OUT OF ITALY.

THE TRITON MATCHES BERNINI'S FAMOUS TRITON FOUNTAIN IN ROME.

LYING ON A BUSY TRADE ROUTE

CONNECTING NORTHERN EUROPE WITH THE SOUTH,

SALZBURG WAS WELL AWARE

OF THE EXCITING THINGS GOING ON IN ITALY.

THINGS ITALIAN WERE RESPECTED AND IN VOGUE.

SOME NORTHERN ARTISTS EVEN ITALIANIZED THEIR NAMES

IN ORDER TO RAISE THEIR RATES.

SALZBURG'S CATHEDRAL, CONSTRUCTED IN THE EARLY 1600s,

WAS ONE OF THE FIRST GRAND BAROQUE BUILDINGS

NORTH OF THE ALPS.

IT'S SUNDAY MORNING.

THE 10:00 MASS IS FAMOUS FOR ITS MUSIC,

AND TODAY IT'S MOZART.

ENTER THE CATHEDRAL,

AND YOU'RE IMMERSED IN PURE BAROQUE GRANDEUR.

♪ DONA NOBIS ♪

♪ NOBIS PACEM ♪

SINCE IT WAS BUILT IN ONLY ABOUT 15 YEARS,

THE CHURCH BOASTS PARTICULARLY HARMONIOUS ART AND ARCHITECTURE.

IN GOOD BAROQUE STYLE, THE ART IS SYMBOLIC,

COHESIVE, AND THEATRICAL,

CREATING A KIND OF FESTIVAL PROCESSION

THAT LEADS TO THE RESURRECTED CHRIST

TRIUMPHING HIGH ABOVE THE ALTAR.

♪ NOBIS ♪

♪ DONA NOBIS ♪

♪ NOBIS PACEM ♪

♪ PACEM ♪

MUSIC AND THE VISUAL ART COMPLEMENT EACH OTHER.

THE ORGAN LOFT FILLS THE CHURCH WITH GLORIOUS SOUNDS

AS MOZART, 250 YEARS

AFTER HIS BIRTH, IS STILL POWERING WORSHIP

WITH HIS MUSICAL GENIUS.

♪ NOBIS ♪

♪ NOBIS PACEM ♪

♪ NOBIS ♪

♪ PACEM ♪♪

WOLFGANG AMADEUS MOZART,

WHO WAS THE CATHEDRAL ORGANIST FOR TWO YEARS,

WAS BORN IN THIS HOUSE IN 1756.

IT WAS HERE THAT HE COMPOSED MOST OF HIS BOY-GENIUS WORKS.

FOR FANS, IT'S ALMOST A PILGRIMAGE.

BUT HIS LATER RESIDENCE, THE MOZART WOHNHAUS,

ACROSS THE RIVER, OFFERS A BETTER EXHIBITION

ON HIS LIFE AND TIMES.

THE PLACE IS FILLED

WITH SCORES OF SCORES,

PORTRAITS,

INSIGHTS INTO HIS FAMILY LIFE

AND HOW THE YOUNG PRODIGY

WAS BASICALLY HOME-SCHOOLED HIS HARD-DRIVING FATHER.

THE MOZART FAMILY WAS SUCCESSFUL ENOUGH

TO ENTERTAIN SALZBURG'S HIGH SOCIETY IN THIS FINE ROOM.

THIS FAMILY PORTRAIT SHOWS MOZART WITH HIS SISTER --

HE WAS PROUD OF HIS FIRST-EVER COMPOSITIONS FOR FOUR HANDS --

HIS FATHER, ALSO A FINE MUSICIAN AND COMPOSER,

AND HIS MOTHER, WHO DIED TWO YEARS EARLIER IN PARIS.

NANNERL CALLED THIS PORTRAIT

THE BEST EVER DONE OF HER BROTHER.

MOZART SPENT A GOOD PART OF HIS CHILDHOOD ON THE ROAD,

PERFORMING ALL OVER EUROPE.

BUT THROUGHOUT HIS YOUTH, HE CALLED SALZBURG HOME.

WHEN HE WAS 25 HE WAS READY FOR THE BIG CITY

AND MOVED TO VIENNA.

TODAY, SALZBURG'S PRIDE IN MOZART SHOWS ITSELF BEST

NOT IN MUSEUMS BUT IN LIVE CONCERTS.

SALZBURG IS A WORLD-CLASS DESTINATION

FOR LIVE MUSICAL PERFORMANCES.

EACH SUMMER IT HOSTS ITS FAMOUS SALZBURG FESTIVAL.

BUT SALZBURG IS BUSY ALL YEAR LONG,

WITH OVER 2,000 LIVE PERFORMANCES

IN CHURCHES AND PALACES LIKE THIS.

WE'RE HEADING INTO THE MIRABELL PALACE

TO HEAR A STRING QUARTET PLAY IN A SPLENDID BAROQUE HALL.

MOZART PERFORMED

FOR THE PRINCE-ARCHBISHOP RIGHT HERE.

AND THIS EVENING

THE TWINS QUARTET FROM MOSCOW

PLAY MOZART'S EINE KLEINE NACHTMUSIK.

THE SURROUNDING MIRABELL GARDENS, LAID OUT IN 1730,

ARE A FAVORITE WITH LOCALS AND TOURISTS ALIKE.

ENJOYING THE GARDEN, CATHEDRAL, CASTLE VIEW,

IT'S EASY TO IMAGINE HOW THE PRINCE ARCHBISHOP

MUST HAVE REVELED IN SUCH A VISTA

THAT REMINDED HIM OF ALL HIS SECULAR

AS WELL AS RELIGIOUS POWER.

THE HOHENSALZBURG FORTRESS

TOWERS 400 FEET ABOVE THE SALZACH RIVER.

ONE OF EUROPE'S MIGHTIEST CASTLES,

IT DOMINATES SALZBURG'S SKYLINE.

ACCESS IS QUICK AND EASY FROM THE OLD TOWN BY FUNICULAR.

ITS CANNONS EVOKE BOTH THREATS OF CENTURIES PAST

AND THE POWER OF SALZBURG'S RULERS.

THE COURTYARD WAS THE MAIN SQUARE

OF THIS HILLTOP COMMUNITY OF A THOUSAND --

WHICH COULD BE SELF-SUFFICIENT WHEN NECESSARY.

THE WELL DIPPED INTO A RAIN-FED CISTERN.

THE SQUARE WAS RINGED BY BLACKSMITHS,

BAKERS, AND CRAFTSMEN.

IMAGINE HOW EXPENSIVE THIS MASSIVE FORTRESS WAS TO BUILD,

AND IT WAS NEVER REALLY USED IN BATTLE.

THAT WAS THE IDEA.

THE GUYS WHO PAID FOR IT WOULD SAY IT WAS A GOOD INVESTMENT --

SO FOREBODING, NOBODY ATTACKED SALZBURG

FOR A THOUSAND YEARS.

ITS RAMPARTS PROVIDE THE BEST VIEWS OF THE CITY.