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  • HI, I'M RICK STEVES,

  • BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.

  • THIS TIME, WE'RE IN THE LAND OF MOZART.

  • IT'S SALZBURG.

  • THANKS FOR JOINING US.

  • SALZBURG IS FOREVER SMILING

  • TO THE TUNES OF MOZART AND THE SOUND OF MUSIC.

  • THANKS TO ITS CHARMING OLD TOWN,

  • SPLENDID BAROQUE CHURCHES,

  • ONE OF EUROPE'S LARGEST MEDIEVAL FORTRESSES,

  • AND SO MANY GREAT PLACES NEARBY,

  • SALZBURG FEELS DESIGNED TO KEEP ITS VISITORS HAPPY.

  • IN SALZBURG WE'LL EXPLORE ITS DELIGHTFUL OLD TOWN,

  • ENJOY MOZART IN A PALACE,

  • AND RELAX IN A SUN-DAPPLED BEER GARDEN.

  • THEN WE'LL SETTLE INTO A FARMHOUSE B&B,

  • SURVIVE A MOUNTAIN LUGE RUN,

  • AND CRUISE TO ONE OF THE JEWELS

  • OF AUSTRIA'S LAKE DISTRICT.

  • SITTING IN THE CENTER OF EUROPE IS AUSTRIA.

  • FROM OUR HOME BASE IN SALZBURG, WE SIDE-TRIP

  • INTO THE SALZKAMMERGUT LAKE DISTRICT --

  • LAKE HALLSTATT,

  • AND THE TOWN BY THE SAME NAME.

  • SALZBURG IS STEEPED IN HISTORY.

  • IN THE YEAR 700, ITS BAVARIAN RULERS GAVE CONTROL OF SALZBURG

  • TO THE LOCAL BISHOP IN RETURN FOR HIS PROMISE

  • TO DEFEND AND EXPAND CHRISTIANITY IN THE AREA.

  • SALZBURG REMAINED AN INDEPENDENT STATE FOR OVER A THOUSAND YEARS,

  • UNTIL IT SURRENDERED TO NAPOLEON.

  • THANKS TO ITS FORMIDABLE FORTRESS

  • AND ITS KNACK FOR REMAINING NEUTRAL,

  • THE CITY MANAGED TO AVOID THE RAVAGES OF WAR

  • UNTIL WORLD WAR II.

  • WHILE MUCH OF THE NEW PART OF TOWN --

  • ON THE FAR SIDE OF THE RIVER --

  • WAS DESTROYED BY WORLD WAR II BOMBS,

  • THE HISTORIC OLD TOWN SURVIVED.

  • THE NEW TOWN HAS

  • THE BIG BUSINESS AND TRAIN STATION,

  • BUT THE OLD TOWN, SITTING BETWEEN

  • THE SALZACH RIVER AND A HILL CALLED MONCHSBERG,

  • HOLDS NEARLY ALL THE CHARM AND MOST OF THE TOURISTS.

  • WITH AROUND EIGHT MILLION VISITORS

  • PROWLING ITS COBBLED LANES EACH YEAR,

  • SALZBURG CAN FEEL PRETTY TOURISTY.

  • YOU DON'T GO TO SALZBURG TO AVOID THE TOURISTS.

  • YOU GO TO EXPERIENCE A TOWN WHICH, IN SPITE OF ITS CROWDS,

  • IS THOROUGHLY ENJOYABLE.

  • MOST OF THE HAPPY TOURISTS PROBABLY WOULDN'T BE HERE

  • IF NOT FOR THE MAN HONORED BY THIS STATUE.

  • WOLFGANG MOZART SPENT

  • MUCH OF HIS FIRST 25 YEARS IN SALZBURG --

  • ONE OF THE GREATEST BAROQUE CITIES NORTH OF THE ALPS.

  • FOR CENTURIES, SALZBURG'S LEADERS WERE BOTH

  • IMPORTANT CHURCH AUTHORITIES AND POLITICAL RULERS.

  • THEY WERE "PRINCE-ARCHBISHOPS,"

  • COMBINING BOTH POLITICAL AND RELIGIOUS POWER.

  • THE ENERGETIC PRINCE-ARCHBISHOP WOLF DIETRICH,

  • WHO RULED AROUND THE YEAR 1600,

  • HAD THE GREATEST IMPACT ON THE TOWN.

  • WOLF DIETRICH WAS RAISED IN ROME,

  • COUNTED THE POWERFUL MEDICIS IN FLORENCE AS HIS BUDDIES,

  • AND HAD GRANDIOSE ITALIAN AMBITIONS FOR SALZBURG.

  • HIS GOAL -- TO BUILD "THE ROME OF THE NORTH."

  • THIS SQUARE, WITH ITS STRIKING CATHEDRAL

  • AND ITALIAN-STYLE PALACE,

  • WAS THE CENTERPIECE OF HIS BAROQUE DREAM CITY.

  • A SERIES OF INTERCONNECTING SQUARES

  • LEAD FROM HERE THROUGH THE OLD TOWN.

  • THIS FOUNTAIN COULD BE STRAIGHT OUT OF ITALY.

  • THE TRITON MATCHES BERNINI'S FAMOUS TRITON FOUNTAIN IN ROME.

  • LYING ON A BUSY TRADE ROUTE

  • CONNECTING NORTHERN EUROPE WITH THE SOUTH,

  • SALZBURG WAS WELL AWARE

  • OF THE EXCITING THINGS GOING ON IN ITALY.

  • THINGS ITALIAN WERE RESPECTED AND IN VOGUE.

  • SOME NORTHERN ARTISTS EVEN ITALIANIZED THEIR NAMES

  • IN ORDER TO RAISE THEIR RATES.

  • SALZBURG'S CATHEDRAL, CONSTRUCTED IN THE EARLY 1600s,

  • WAS ONE OF THE FIRST GRAND BAROQUE BUILDINGS

  • NORTH OF THE ALPS.

  • IT'S SUNDAY MORNING.

  • THE 10:00 MASS IS FAMOUS FOR ITS MUSIC,

  • AND TODAY IT'S MOZART.

  • ENTER THE CATHEDRAL,

  • AND YOU'RE IMMERSED IN PURE BAROQUE GRANDEUR.

  • DONA NOBIS

  • NOBIS PACEM

  • SINCE IT WAS BUILT IN ONLY ABOUT 15 YEARS,

  • THE CHURCH BOASTS PARTICULARLY HARMONIOUS ART AND ARCHITECTURE.

  • IN GOOD BAROQUE STYLE, THE ART IS SYMBOLIC,

  • COHESIVE, AND THEATRICAL,

  • CREATING A KIND OF FESTIVAL PROCESSION

  • THAT LEADS TO THE RESURRECTED CHRIST

  • TRIUMPHING HIGH ABOVE THE ALTAR.

  • NOBIS

  • DONA NOBIS

  • NOBIS PACEM

  • PACEM

  • MUSIC AND THE VISUAL ART COMPLEMENT EACH OTHER.

  • THE ORGAN LOFT FILLS THE CHURCH WITH GLORIOUS SOUNDS

  • AS MOZART, 250 YEARS

  • AFTER HIS BIRTH, IS STILL POWERING WORSHIP

  • WITH HIS MUSICAL GENIUS.

  • NOBIS

  • NOBIS PACEM

  • NOBIS

  • PACEM ♪♪

  • WOLFGANG AMADEUS MOZART,

  • WHO WAS THE CATHEDRAL ORGANIST FOR TWO YEARS,

  • WAS BORN IN THIS HOUSE IN 1756.

  • IT WAS HERE THAT HE COMPOSED MOST OF HIS BOY-GENIUS WORKS.

  • FOR FANS, IT'S ALMOST A PILGRIMAGE.

  • BUT HIS LATER RESIDENCE, THE MOZART WOHNHAUS,

  • ACROSS THE RIVER, OFFERS A BETTER EXHIBITION

  • ON HIS LIFE AND TIMES.

  • THE PLACE IS FILLED

  • WITH SCORES OF SCORES,

  • PORTRAITS,

  • INSIGHTS INTO HIS FAMILY LIFE

  • AND HOW THE YOUNG PRODIGY

  • WAS BASICALLY HOME-SCHOOLED HIS HARD-DRIVING FATHER.

  • THE MOZART FAMILY WAS SUCCESSFUL ENOUGH

  • TO ENTERTAIN SALZBURG'S HIGH SOCIETY IN THIS FINE ROOM.

  • THIS FAMILY PORTRAIT SHOWS MOZART WITH HIS SISTER --

  • HE WAS PROUD OF HIS FIRST-EVER COMPOSITIONS FOR FOUR HANDS --

  • HIS FATHER, ALSO A FINE MUSICIAN AND COMPOSER,

  • AND HIS MOTHER, WHO DIED TWO YEARS EARLIER IN PARIS.

  • NANNERL CALLED THIS PORTRAIT

  • THE BEST EVER DONE OF HER BROTHER.

  • MOZART SPENT A GOOD PART OF HIS CHILDHOOD ON THE ROAD,

  • PERFORMING ALL OVER EUROPE.

  • BUT THROUGHOUT HIS YOUTH, HE CALLED SALZBURG HOME.

  • WHEN HE WAS 25 HE WAS READY FOR THE BIG CITY

  • AND MOVED TO VIENNA.

  • TODAY, SALZBURG'S PRIDE IN MOZART SHOWS ITSELF BEST

  • NOT IN MUSEUMS BUT IN LIVE CONCERTS.

  • SALZBURG IS A WORLD-CLASS DESTINATION

  • FOR LIVE MUSICAL PERFORMANCES.

  • EACH SUMMER IT HOSTS ITS FAMOUS SALZBURG FESTIVAL.

  • BUT SALZBURG IS BUSY ALL YEAR LONG,

  • WITH OVER 2,000 LIVE PERFORMANCES

  • IN CHURCHES AND PALACES LIKE THIS.

  • WE'RE HEADING INTO THE MIRABELL PALACE

  • TO HEAR A STRING QUARTET PLAY IN A SPLENDID BAROQUE HALL.

  • MOZART PERFORMED

  • FOR THE PRINCE-ARCHBISHOP RIGHT HERE.

  • AND THIS EVENING

  • THE TWINS QUARTET FROM MOSCOW

  • PLAY MOZART'S EINE KLEINE NACHTMUSIK.

  • THE SURROUNDING MIRABELL GARDENS, LAID OUT IN 1730,

  • ARE A FAVORITE WITH LOCALS AND TOURISTS ALIKE.

  • ENJOYING THE GARDEN, CATHEDRAL, CASTLE VIEW,

  • IT'S EASY TO IMAGINE HOW THE PRINCE ARCHBISHOP

  • MUST HAVE REVELED IN SUCH A VISTA

  • THAT REMINDED HIM OF ALL HIS SECULAR

  • AS WELL AS RELIGIOUS POWER.

  • THE HOHENSALZBURG FORTRESS

  • TOWERS 400 FEET ABOVE THE SALZACH RIVER.

  • ONE OF EUROPE'S MIGHTIEST CASTLES,

  • IT DOMINATES SALZBURG'S SKYLINE.

  • ACCESS IS QUICK AND EASY FROM THE OLD TOWN BY FUNICULAR.

  • ITS CANNONS EVOKE BOTH THREATS OF CENTURIES PAST

  • AND THE POWER OF SALZBURG'S RULERS.

  • THE COURTYARD WAS THE MAIN SQUARE

  • OF THIS HILLTOP COMMUNITY OF A THOUSAND --

  • WHICH COULD BE SELF-SUFFICIENT WHEN NECESSARY.

  • THE WELL DIPPED INTO A RAIN-FED CISTERN.

  • THE SQUARE WAS RINGED BY BLACKSMITHS,

  • BAKERS, AND CRAFTSMEN.

  • IMAGINE HOW EXPENSIVE THIS MASSIVE FORTRESS WAS TO BUILD,

  • AND IT WAS NEVER REALLY USED IN BATTLE.

  • THAT WAS THE IDEA.

  • THE GUYS WHO PAID FOR IT WOULD SAY IT WAS A GOOD INVESTMENT --

  • SO FOREBODING, NOBODY ATTACKED SALZBURG

  • FOR A THOUSAND YEARS.

  • ITS RAMPARTS PROVIDE THE BEST VIEWS OF THE CITY.

  • SURVEYING THE TOWN,

  • YOU CAN IMAGINE SALZBURG THROUGH THE AGES.

  • FROM THE CASTLE, TAKE A STROLL

  • ACROSS THE FORESTED MONCHSBERG HILL

  • FOR A BREEZY RESPITE FROM THE CITY

  • AND MORE COMMANDING VIEWS.

  • SET YOUR SIGHTS ON THE SPIRE OF THE AUGUSTINIAN CHURCH,

  • AND YOU'LL FIND WHAT SEEMS LIKE HALF OF SALZBURG

  • FEASTING AND DRINKING.

  • THOSE AUGUSTINIANS MUST HAVE BEEN

  • THE MOST POPULAR MONKS IN TOWN

  • FOR THEIR ROLLICKING BEER GARDEN.

  • AUSTRIA SPECIALIZES IN A KNACK FOR CONVIVIALITY.

  • AND IN SALZBURG,

  • THERE'S NO BETTER PLACE TO EXPERIENCE THAT THAN HERE

  • AT THE AUGUSTINER BRAUSTUBL.

  • ON BALMY SUMMER EVENINGS, THIS BREWERY

  • HAS THE AMBIANCE OF A RENOIR PAINTING,

  • AS ALL GENERATIONS GATHER UNDER THE CHESTNUT TREES

  • AS THEY HAVE FOR CENTURIES

  • TO ENJOY CHEAP FOOD,

  • GOOD BEER,

  • AND THAT SPECIAL LOCAL COZINESS,

  • CALLED GEMUTLICHKEIT.

  • IT'S SELF-SERVICE.

  • PERUSE THE FOOD STALLS.

  • NO SHORTAGE OF MEATS,

  • KRAUT, AND SALADS.

  • AND THE STECKERLFISCH --

  • NOW THAT'S MY KIND OF FISH STICK!

  • GETTING A BEER IS FUN IN ITSELF.

  • BUY YOUR TOKEN, CHOOSE A MUG.

  • TWO CHOICES -- BIG AND HUGE.

  • GIVE IT A RINSE --

  • AND FILL 'ER UP.

  • AS IS OFTEN THE CASE IN ROWDY EUROPEAN EATERIES LIKE THIS,

  • YOU SHARE TABLES

  • AND MAKE NEW FRIENDS.

  • OLD SALZBURG'S BUSY AND COLORFUL MAIN DRAG

  • WAS AND STILL IS GETREIDE GASSE.

  • AMIDST ALL THE TOURISTS AND CHAIN OUTLETS,

  • ITS CLASSY SHOPS

  • AND TRADITIONAL WROUGHT-IRON SIGNS

  • GIVE IT A TOUCH OF ELEGANCE.

  • PONDERING THE OLD-TIME SIGNS --

  • WHICH WERE ADVERTISING BACK IN THE DAYS

  • WHEN MOST SHOPPERS COULDN'T READ --

  • YOU CAN ALMOST IMAGINE STROLLING HERE,

  • LOOKING FOR A STURDY PAIR OF BOOTS, A STYLISH DIRNDL,

  • OR EVEN A LITTLE SCHNAPPS.

  • THE SPORER FAMILY HAS BEEN DISTILLING SCHNAPPS

  • AND SELLING IT FROM THIS FRIENDLY HOLE-IN-THE-WALL

  • FOR JUST OVER A HUNDRED YEARS.

  • IT'S GOOD TO SEE HOW,

  • IN THE MIDST OF ALL THIS TOURISM,

  • PURELY LOCAL HANGOUTS STILL SURVIVE.

  • THE REGULARS HERE KNOW

  • THAT THERE ARE ENOUGH FLAVORS OF SCHNAPPS

  • TO KEEP THEM COMING BACK AGAIN AND AGAIN.

  • OBSTLER IS APPLE AND --

  • APPLE AND PEAR.

  • OKAY.

  • AND IT'S VERY TYPICAL

  • FOR THIS AREA.

  • SO THIS IS APPLE AND PEAR?

  • APPLE AND PEAR, YES.

  • GOOD.

  • ZUM WOHL!

  • PROSIT!

  • [ LAUGHING ]

  • OOH, THAT'S GOOD.

  • YOU DON'T THROW IT DOWN. YOU SIP IT, IS THAT RIGHT?

  • YOU SIP IT, YES.

  • AND WHAT IS SCHNAPPS?

  • SCHNAPPS IS DISTILLED FRUITS.

  • SO THERE'S MANY DIFFERENT KINDS OF SCHNAPPS?

  • YES, THERE ARE MANY FRUITS

  • IN AUSTRIA, AND WE DISTILL

  • ALMOST EVERYTHING.

  • AND WHEN IS THE NORMAL TIME

  • WHEN YOU WOULD DRINK SCHNAPPS IN AUSTRIA?

  • AFTER DINNER, AS A DIGESTIVE,

  • OR YOU DRINK IT BESIDE A BEER IN THE EVENING, OR --

  • BUT THIS IS AFTER BREAKFAST, AND YOU'RE STILL QUITE BUSY.

  • [ LAUGHTER ]

  • WE'RE ALWAYS BUSY, BECAUSE WE ARE VERY OLD,

  • TRADITIONAL SHOP IN THE GETREIDE GASSE.

  • Steves: AND WAY BACK WHEN WOLFGANG

  • WAS STILL PRACTICING HIS SCALES,

  • SALZBURG'S BUSY OPEN-AIR PRODUCE MARKET

  • GAVE FARMERS

  • THE CHANCE TO SELL DIRECTLY TO LOCALS.

  • TODAY, THE PEOPLE OF SALZBURG ARE HAPPY TO PAY A PREMIUM

  • FOR THE RELIABLY FRESH AND TOP-QUALITY PRODUCE.

  • AUSTRIA, WITH ITS GERMANIC PASSION FOR QUALITY,

  • IS ENTHUSIASTIC ABOUT ORGANICALLY GROWN

  • FRUITS AND VEGETABLES.

  • PUBLIC MARKETPLACES COME WITH FOUNTAINS.

  • AND SALZBURG'S ARE PART

  • OF THIS CITY'S INGENIOUS MEDIEVAL WATER SYSTEM.

  • IN THE 13th CENTURY,

  • SALZBURG WAS PLUMBED WITH A CLEVER CANAL SYSTEM

  • WHICH HAS BROUGHT WATER INTO SALZBURG

  • FROM NEARBY HILLS EVER SINCE.

  • THE STREAM, DIVIDED INTO SMALLER CANALS,

  • WAS CHANNELED THROUGH TOWN.

  • THE CONSTANTLY FLOWING WATER FLUSHED OUT THE STREETS,

  • PROVIDED FIRE PROTECTION, AND POWERED FACTORIES.

  • IT WAS THE HARNESSING

  • OF WIND AND WATER POWER WITH MILLS LIKE THIS

  • THAT HELPED KICK THE ECONOMY INTO GEAR

  • AND LIFT EUROPE OUT OF WHAT MANY CALLED THE DARK AGES.

  • THESE CANALS POWERED

  • ABOUT A HUNDRED WATER MILLS IN SALZBURG,

  • WHICH WERE BUSILY CRANKING AS LATE AS THE 19th CENTURY.

  • TUCKED AWAY IN THE HEART OF THE OLD TOWN

  • AND ABUTTING THE ROCK WALL OF MONCHSBERG

  • IS ST. PETER'S CEMETERY.

  • THE GRAVES ARE A COLLECTION

  • OF WELL CARED FOR MINI-GARDENS.

  • IT SEEMS EACH PLOT IS LOVINGLY TENDED BY RELATIVES.

  • THAT'S BECAUSE IN AUSTRIA,

  • GRAVE SITES ARE RENTED, NOT OWNED.

  • RENT BILLS ARE SENT OUT ABOUT EVERY 10 YEARS.

  • IF NO ONE CARES ENOUGH TO MAKE THE PAYMENT,

  • YOU'RE GONE.

  • IRON CROSSES WERE CHEAPER THAN CARVED TOMBSTONES.

  • RICH GUYS' FINE RENAISSANCE-STYLE TOMBS

  • DECORATE THE CHAPEL WALLS.

  • WEALTHY AS THOSE GUYS WERE,

  • WHEN THEY RAN OUT OF CARING RELATIVES,

  • THEY WERE DUG UP, SHIPPED OUT,

  • AND THEIR FANCY TOMBSTONES ENDED UP ON THE WALL.

  • SALZBURG'S WEALTH WAS BASED ON SALT.

  • ITS NAME BASICALLY MEANS, "SALT FORTRESS."

  • ITS RIVER IS CALLED THE SALZACH --

  • NOT BECAUSE IT'S SALTY,

  • BUT BECAUSE OF THE PRECIOUS CARGO IT ONCE CARRIED.

  • SALT, SO PRECIOUS AS A PRESERVATIVE

  • IN PRE-REFRIGERATOR DAYS,

  • WAS A HUGE PART OF THIS REGION'S ECONOMY,

  • ALL THE WAY BACK TO PREHISTORIC TIMES.

  • THERE WERE MAJOR SALT MINES JUST UPSTREAM.

  • SALT COULD BE SHIPPED FROM HERE DOWN TO THE DANUBE AND BEYOND.

  • THE BANKS OF THE SALZACH RIVER --

  • IDEAL FOR STROLLING AND BIKING --

  • WERE ONCE MEDIEVAL TOW PATHS.

  • CARGO BOATS WOULD FLOAT DOWNSTREAM

  • AND BE DRAGGED BACK UPSTREAM BY HORSE.

  • TODAY, THESE RIVERSIDE PATHS ARE MUCH ENJOYED,

  • PROVIDING EASY ACCESS TO THE SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE.

  • IF YOU'D LIKE TO COMMUNE WITH NATURE

  • IN A UNIQUELY AUSTRIAN WAY,

  • SALZBURG IS THE IDEAL JUMPING-OFF POINT

  • FOR SPECTACULAR COUNTRYSIDE TO THE SOUTH.

  • IT'S AUSTRIA'S SALZKAMMERGUT LAKE DISTRICT,

  • WHERE "THE HILLS ARE ALIVE"

  • AND YOU'RE SURROUNDED BY THE SCENIC WONDER

  • THAT HAS ENTHRALLED NATURE LOVERS

  • FROM EMPEROR FRANZ JOSEF TO JULIE ANDREWS.

  • THIS IS "SOUND OF MUSIC" COUNTRY.

  • IDYLLIC AND MAJESTIC, BUT NOT RUGGED,

  • IT'S A GENTLE LAND OF LAKES, FORESTED MOUNTAINS,

  • AND STORYBOOK VILLAGES

  • RICH IN HIKING AND BIKING OPPORTUNITIES.

  • THE COUNTRYSIDE AROUND SALZBURG

  • HAS PLENTY OF FARMHOUSE B&Bs.

  • GOOD ONES, LIKE THIS ONE NEAR THE TOWN OF WERFEN,

  • GIVE YOU A CHANCE

  • TO EXPERIENCE THE RICHNESS OF AUSTRIA'S RURAL LIFE.

  • [ HORSE WHINNIES ]

  • THE WEISSACHER FAMILY RENTS

  • A COUPLE OF SIMPLE YET COMFY ROOMS

  • TO SUPPLEMENT THEIR FARM INCOME.

  • THEY'RE POPULAR WITH BIG-CITY FAMILIES

  • WHO WANT THE OPPORTUNITY TO STAY ON A FARM,

  • TO LEARN TO RIDE,

  • AND JUST GET AWAY

  • FROM THE INTENSITY OF URBAN LIFE.

  • ONE FUN WAY TO GET A DOSE OF NATURE

  • WITH A JOLT OF SPEED

  • IS ON A SOMMERRODLEBAHN.

  • THROUGHOUT THE REGION,

  • SKI RUNS EARN THEIR KEEP IN THE SUMMER

  • AS LUGE COURSES.

  • ENJOY THE LAKE COUNTRY VIEW

  • AS YOU'RE DRAGGED UP THE MOUNTAIN.

  • THEN GET SET TO FLY.

  • IT'S SIMPLE -- PUSH TO GO, PULL TO BRAKE --

  • A TREAT FOR KIDS OF ALL AGES.

  • WE'RE HEADING TWO HOURS SOUTHEAST OF SALZBURG

  • TO MY FAVORITE SALZKAMMERGUT TOWN

  • ON MY FAVORITE SALZKAMMERGUT LAKE.

  • THE TINY TRAIN STATION IS ACROSS LAKE HALLSTATT

  • FROM THE POSTCARD-PRETTY TOWN

  • BY THE SAME NAME -- HALLSTATT.

  • STEFANIE, A BOAT,

  • MEETS EACH ARRIVING TRAIN

  • AND GLIDES SCENICALLY

  • ACROSS THE LAKE INTO TOWN.

  • LOVABLE HALLSTATT IS A TINY TOWN

  • BULLIED ONTO A LEDGE

  • BETWEEN A MOUNTAIN AND A SWAN-RULED LAKE.

  • APART FROM THE WATERFALL WHICH RIPS THROUGH ITS MIDDLE,

  • HALLSTATT IS AN OASIS OF PEACE.

  • WITH THE SCARCITY OF LEVEL LAND,

  • TALL HOMES HAD THEIR FRONT DOOR

  • ON THE STREET-LEVEL TOP FLOOR

  • AND THEIR WATER ENTRANCE

  • SEVERAL FLOORS BELOW.

  • THE TOWN, WHICH ORIGINATED AS A SALT MINING CENTER,

  • IS ONE OF EUROPE'S OLDEST,

  • GOING BACK CENTURIES BEFORE CHRIST.

  • THERE WAS A HALLSTATT BEFORE THERE WAS A ROME.

  • IN FACT, BECAUSE OF THE SALT-MINING IMPORTANCE HERE

  • AN ENTIRE AGE -- THE HALLSTATT ERA,

  • FROM ABOUT 800 B.C. TO 400 B.C. --

  • IS NAMED FOR THIS ONCE-IMPORTANT SPOT.

  • IF YOU DUG UNDER THESE BUILDINGS,

  • YOU'D FIND ROMAN AND PRE-ROMAN CELTIC PAVEMENT STONES

  • FROM THE ANCIENT AND PREHISTORIC SALT DEPOT.

  • THIS CUTE LITTLE VILLAGE WAS ONCE THE SALT-MINING NAMESAKE

  • OF A CULTURE THAT SPREAD FROM FRANCE TO THE BLACK SEA.

  • BACK THEN, SALT WAS SO PRECIOUS BECAUSE IT PRESERVED MEAT,

  • AND HALLSTATT WAS, AS ITS NAME MEANS,

  • THE "PLACE OF SALT."

  • A STEEP FUNICULAR RUNS UP THE MOUNTAIN

  • TO HALLSTATT'S SALT MINE.

  • IT'S ONE OF MANY THROUGHOUT THE REGION

  • THAT OFFER TOURS.

  • AT THE MINE, VISITORS SLIP INTO OVERALLS,

  • MEET THEIR GUIDE,

  • AND HIKE INTO THE MOUNTAIN.

  • WHILE THIS PARTICULAR TUNNEL DATES ONLY FROM 1719,

  • HALLSTATT'S MINE CLAIMS TO BE THE OLDEST IN THE WORLD.

  • IN THE TOUR, YOU'LL LEARN THE STORY OF SALT.

  • ARCHAEOLOGISTS CLAIM THAT, SINCE 7,000 B.C.,

  • PEOPLE HAVE COME HERE TO GET SALT.

  • A BRINE SPRING SPRUNG HERE, ATTRACTING BRONZE-AGE PEOPLE.

  • LATER, MINERS DUG TUNNELS TO EXTRACT THE SALTY ROCK,

  • THEY DISSOLVED IT INTO A BRINE,

  • WHICH FLOWED THROUGH MILES OF PIPES,

  • THE OLDEST HEWN OUT OF LOGS, TO HALLSTATT

  • AND NEARBY TOWNS, WHERE THE BRINE WAS,

  • AND STILL IS,

  • COOKED UNTIL ONLY THE SALT REMAINED.

  • A HIGHLIGHT IS RIDING MINER-STYLE

  • FROM ONE FLOOR DOWN TO THE NEXT,

  • PRAYING FOR NO SPLINTERS.

  • THROUGH THE CENTURIES,

  • HALLSTATT WAS BUSY WITH THE SALT TRADE.

  • SINCE IT HAD NO ROAD ACCESS,

  • PEOPLE CAME AND WENT BY BOAT.

  • YOU'LL STILL SEE THE TRADITIONAL FUHR BOATS,

  • DESIGNED TO CARRY HEAVY LOADS IN SHALLOW WATER.

  • HERR ALFRED LENZ MAKES THE TOWN'S TRADITIONAL BOATS

  • FROM A 200-YEAR-OLD DESIGN.

  • THE OAR LOCK IS STILL MADE OF THE GUT OF A BULL.

  • ALFRED CLAIMS AN HOUR ON THE LAKE

  • IS WORTH A DAY OF VACATION.

  • AND ALFRED IS NOT THE ONLY ONE WITH THAT IDEA.

  • THE LAKE IS A PLAYGROUND

  • FOR VISITORS IN RENTAL BOATS,

  • WHICH COME WITH TWO SPEEDS --

  • SLOW AND STOP.

  • EVEN THOUGH HALLSTATT'S ACTUAL SIGHTS ARE SUBTLE,

  • WANDERING THROUGH TOWN IS A TREAT.

  • POP INTO THE FISHERY --

  • TWO MEN HAVE A LICENSE TO HARVEST THE LAKE

  • OF ITS PLANKTON-FED REINEKE FISH,

  • MUCH PRIZED BY LOCAL RESTAURANTS.

  • THE TOWN'S DECORATIVE WOODWORK,

  • A TRADITION WHICH DATES BACK CENTURIES,

  • REFLECTS THE WEALTH SALT BROUGHT.

  • WHILE FIRES HAVE BEEN A RECURRENT PROBLEM,

  • MANY HOUSES GO WAY BACK.

  • THIS ONE DATES FROM 1597.

  • THE CATHOLIC CHURCH OVERLOOKS THE TOWN FROM ABOVE.

  • ITS 500-YEAR-OLD ALTARS AND FRESCOS

  • FEATURE HALLSTATT'S TWO FAVORITE SAINTS --

  • ST. BARBARA, PATRON OF MINERS,

  • AND ST. CATHERINE, PATRON OF FORESTERS.

  • LOTS OF WOOD WAS NEEDED

  • TO FORTIFY THE MANY MILES OF TUNNELS

  • AND BOIL THE BRINE TO DISTILL OUT THAT SALT.

  • SPACE IN HALLSTATT'S WELL-TENDED GRAVEYARD

  • WAS SO LIMITED THAT BONES HAD ONLY

  • ABOUT 12 PEACEFUL BURIED YEARS HERE

  • BEFORE MAKING WAY FOR THE FRESHLY DEAD.

  • MANY OF THE DUG-UP BONES AND SKULLS

  • ENDED UP IN THE BONE CHAPEL.

  • EACH OF THE SEVERAL HUNDRED PAINTED SKULLS

  • HAS BEEN LOVINGLY NAMED, DATED, AND DECORATED.

  • THE SKULLS RESTING ON BIBLES ARE THOSE OF THE TOWN'S PRIESTS.

  • [ BRASS BAND PLAYS ]

  • WHILE THE BONE CHAPEL IS FASCINATING,

  • THERE'S MORE LIFE DOWN ON THE TOWN SQUARE.

  • FOR GENERATIONS,

  • THE TRADITIONAL SALT MINERS' BAND

  • HAS ENTERTAINED THEIR TOWN.

  • DONATE TO THE BAND,

  • AND A MAIDEN GIVES YOU A SHOT OF SCHNAPPS.

  • RESTAURANT BRAUGASTHOF,

  • LAKESIDE AND UNDER A GRAND CHESTNUT TREE,

  • IS JUST THE PLACE TO TRY SOME OF LAKE HALLSTATT'S PRIZED FISH.

  • THEY'RE COOKED UP FRESH AND SIMPLE

  • AND SERVED WITH A NICE AUSTRIAN DRY WHITE WINE.

  • AND WHILE YOU AWAIT YOUR STRUDEL,

  • YOU CAN FEED THE SWANS.

  • SWANS PATROL THE LAKE LIKE THEY OWN IT.

  • THEY'RE REMINDERS OF THE 1800s,

  • WHEN THE FIRST ROMANTIC-AGE POETS AND PAINTERS

  • DISCOVERED THIS REGION.

  • BACK THEN, VIENNA'S HABSBURG ROYALTY

  • MADE IT THEIR ANNUAL HOLIDAY RETREAT,

  • AND TODAY, IT REMAINS AS DELIGHTFUL AS EVER.

  • I HOPE YOU'VE ENJOYED EXPLORING THIS PART OF AUSTRIA,

  • WITH THE HIGH CULTURE AND HISTORY OF SALZBURG,

  • AND THE NATURAL SPLENDOR

  • OF THE SALZKAMMERGUT LAKE DISTRICT.

  • THANKS FOR JOINING US. I'M RICK STEVES.

  • UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELING.

  • AUF WEIDERSEHN.

HI, I'M RICK STEVES,

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