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  • HI. I'M RICK STEVES, GLAD TO BE YOUR TRAVEL PARTNER AGAIN

  • AS WE ENJOY MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.

  • THIS TIME, IT'S A WEE BIT OF WONDERFUL SCOTLAND.

  • WHERE LEGENDS OF BONNIE PRINCE CHARLIE

  • SWIRL AROUND LONELY CASTLES.

  • WE'LL PONDER THE BIRTHPLACE OF CHRISTIANITY IN SCOTLAND,

  • TOSS A FEW CABERS,

  • AND WATCH TRADITIONAL DANCING AT HIGHLAND GAMES,

  • DISCOVER DARK SECRETS IN THE WEEPING GLEN...

  • THEY STARTED TO KILL THE MEN.

  • ...SAMPLE SOME FINE SCOTCH,

  • AND ENDURE A LITTLE PIPING.

  • CROWNING BRITAIN IN THE NORTHWEST OF EUROPE,

  • SCOTLAND WELCOMES VISITORS.

  • FROM THE TOWN OF OBAN,

  • WE CRUISE TO THE ISLES OF MULL AND IONA,

  • THEN FOLLOW THE CALEDONIAN CANAL TO GLENCOE,

  • LOCH NESS,

  • AND ON TO CULLODEN.

  • OBAN, THE GATEWAY TO THE ISLES,

  • IS A BUSY LITTLE FERRY TERMINAL,

  • A CLASSIC SCOTTISH PORT TOWN,

  • JUST THE PLACE TO MUNCH FRESH SEAFOOD.

  • YOU WANT A WEE BIT OF THIS?

  • I'LL HAVE A CUP OF COCKLES, PLEASE.

  • CUP OF COCKLES?

  • THAT'S RIGHT.

  • THESE ARE COOKED WITHOUT SALT.

  • ALL RIGHT.

  • MIGHT WANT TO PUT A BIT OF SALT,

  • VINEGAR, BLACK PEPPER.

  • THE WIND, BOATS, GULLS, LAYERS OF ISLANDS

  • AND THE PROMISE OF A WIDE-OPEN ATLANTIC BEYOND

  • GIVE OBAN A SHIVER-AND-BUSTLE VITALITY.

  • THE COLISEUM OVERLOOKING OBAN WAS THE INSPIRATION

  • OF A LOCAL TYCOON IN 1900.

  • HE WANTED TO EMPLOY WORKERS

  • AND BUILD HIMSELF A FINE MEMORIAL.

  • A HIKE TO ITS PEACEFUL GARDEN IS REWARDED WITH A GRAND VIEW.

  • OBAN'S COMMERCIAL DISTRICT IS LITTLE MORE

  • THAN THE STREET ALONG THE HARBOR.

  • EAGER TO PLEASE ITS MANY VISITORS,

  • YOU'LL FIND LIVE FOLK DANCING NIGHTLY

  • AND WOOLENS AND TWEEDS PERPETUALLY ON SALE.

  • TOMORROW WE'RE SAILING TO THE ISLE OF MULL

  • AND HISTORIC IONA.

  • FOR TODAY, I'LL EXPLORE MY OPTIONS AT THE TOURIST OFFICE.

  • THERE'S PLENTY GOING ON.

  • THE "WHAT'S ON" BOARD LISTS PIPING ON THE HILLTOP,

  • FOLK DANCING,

  • AND LAWN BOWLING.

  • GOOD TRAVELERS MAKE A POINT TO GET OUT

  • OF THE "MUSEUM-AND-CASTLES" RUT AND INTO DAILY LIFE.

  • OH, LOVELY BALL!

  • THE OBAN LAWN BOWLING CLUB HAS WELCOMED VISITORS SINCE 1869.

  • ANYONE CAN WATCH, AND IF THERE'S NO MATCH,

  • YOU CAN RENT SHOES AND BALLS AND ACTUALLY PLAY.

  • THE PRESIDENT OF THE CLUB, MARGARET MacLAUCHLAN,

  • IS GIVING ME A LESSON IN THIS WONDERFULLY SCOTTISH PASTIME.

  • THE PURPOSE OF THE GAME IS THAT YOU ARE GOING TO

  • TRY TO GET YOUR BALL CLOSER TO THE JACK

  • THAN YOUR OPPONENT.

  • IT'S GOING TO BEND A LITTLE BIT THIS WAY.

  • THAT'S CORRECT.

  • OKAY, LET'S GIVE THAT A WHIRL.

  • WOW, YOU TOOK YOUR PORRIDGE THIS MORNING.

  • SEE, I'M THROWING IT TOO FAR

  • AND I FORGOT MY BIAS.

  • YOU FORGOT YOUR BIAS, YES.

  • TAKE THE BALL.

  • DO IT AGAIN?

  • YES.

  • REMEMBER YOUR BIAS THIS TIME.

  • OKAY.

  • NOT TOO HEAVY.

  • THAT'S NOT A BAD TRY.

  • NOT BAD.

  • HEY, THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE LESSON.

  • IT'S A PLEASURE.

  • NICE TO MEET YOU.

  • TO CELEBRATE OUR FIRST GAME OF LAWN BOWLING,

  • HOW ABOUT A LITTLE SCOTCH?

  • OBAN'S 200-YEAR-OLD WHISKEY DISTILLERY PRODUCES

  • NEARLY 15,000 BOTTLES A WEEK.

  • DON'T BREATHE IN TOO DEEPLY

  • BECAUSE SOMETIMES IT CAN TAKE YOUR BREATH AWAY.

  • THEY OFFER FRAGRANT TOURS.

  • SO WE'LL HAVE A LOOK IN THIS ONE NOW.

  • NOW, THIS ONE'S FINISHED FERMENTING.

  • NOW, OBAN'S QUITE UNIQUE.

  • THE WASH STILL IS MUCH BIGGER THAN THE SPIRIT STILL.

  • NOW, EACH DISTILLERY WILL HAVE ITS OWN SHAPE OF STILL.

  • THAT'S TRADITION.

  • AND THE SHAPE OF THE STILL WILL INFLUENCE THE CHARACTER

  • OF THE WHISKEY.

  • SO THIS IS OBAN SINGLE MALT WHISKEY,

  • AND IT'S 14 YEARS OLD.

  • THE TOUR FINISHES WITH A SMOOTH SAMPLE

  • AND A TRADITIONAL TOAST.

  • IN MY BRITAIN GUIDEBOOK, I RECOMMEND SLEEPING

  • IN BED AND BREAKFASTS TO SAVE MONEY

  • AND GET TO KNOW THE LOCALS.

  • AND THESE DAYS, MANY B & Bs ARE SMOKE-FREE.

  • NONSMOKERS HAVE IT EASIER IN BRITAIN THAN ON THE CONTINENT

  • WHERE SMOKE-FREE ACCOMMODATIONS

  • ARE STILL PRETTY RARE.

  • SO, THIS IS MY HOME AWAY FROM HOME.

  • I'VE SET UP A WEE LITTLE PANTRY,

  • GOT MY SINK HERE,

  • TOILET AND SHOWER JUST ACROSS THE HALL,

  • AND I'VE GOT MY OWN TEMPORARY LOCAL MOTHER.

  • WELL, RICK, THIS IS THE TROLLEY WHERE WE HAVE

  • TEA AND COFFEE AND BISCUITS, AND YOU HELP YOURSELF.

  • AND YOU'RE MORE THAN WELCOME TO USE IT.

  • THIS IS THE LOUNGE.

  • AND THIS IS WHERE WE LIKE TO SIT ON AN EVENING,

  • HAVE A TALK TO OUR GUESTS.

  • SO YOU ACTUALLY GET THE GUESTS GATHERING IN HERE?

  • OH, WE DO, WE DO GET THEM GATHERING IN HERE.

  • WE HAVE A GOOD EVENING.

  • THEY WANT TO KNOW ABOUT OBAN,

  • AND I HELP THEM AS MUCH AS I CAN.

  • AND I ASK THEM WHERE THEY'VE BEEN, WHERE THEY'VE COME FROM,

  • AND I LIKE TO KNOW WHERE THEY ARE.

  • RENA, WE NEED ONE GREAT PLACE FOR A SCOTTISH DINNER.

  • OH, THE STUDIO, OF COURSE.

  • IT'S VERY NICE INDEED THERE.

  • THEY HAVE LOVELY MEALS IN THERE,

  • AND YOU CAN CHOOSE FROM THE MENU.

  • AND YOU CAN HAVE SCOTTISH FOOD AS WELL.

  • SALMON AND STEAKS,

  • AND REALLY NICE STEAKS THEY ARE IN THERE.

  • NOW, I KNOW IT'S A TOURISTY THING,

  • BUT I REALLY WHEN I'M IN SCOTLAND,

  • I LIKE TO HAVE SOME HAGGIS.

  • WILL THEY SERVE THE HAGGIS,

  • DO YOU THINK?

  • I THINK SO.

  • I'M NOT SURE ABOUT HAGGIS BECAUSE I'M NOT A HAGGIS EATER.

  • I THINK THEY SERVE IT TO ALL THE TOURISTS,

  • BUT YOU PROBABLY HAVEN'T HAD IT FOR A WHILE.

  • NO, AND I CAN DANCE IT.

  • I CAN SHOOT IT IF YOU LIKE.

  • [ LAUGHTER ]

  • THE STUDIO IS A FAVORITE FOR GOOD SCOTTISH COOKING.

  • HM.

  • THERE'S JUST NO HAGGIS ANYWHERE ON THIS MENU.

  • I GUESS SCOTTISH CUISINE HAS MOVED

  • BEYOND HAGGIS, NEEPS, AND TATTIES.

  • ACTUALLY, THAT'S A RELIEF.

  • ANGUS BEEF?

  • THAT'LL BE FOR ME.

  • WOULD YOU LIKE SOME

  • HORSERADISH SAUCE WITH THAT?

  • OH, YES, PLEASE.

  • BECAUSE IT LETS US ORDER THE LOCALLY CAUGHT

  • GRILLED SALMON AND THE HIGHLAND ANGUS BEEF.

  • EACH MORNING TRAVELERS PILE ONTO THE HUGE OBAN-MULL FERRY.

  • ALL ABOARD FOR IONA, RAIN OR SHINE.

  • REGARDLESS OF THE WEATHER, THE TOUR OF IONA AND MULL

  • OFFERS THE BEST ONE-DAY LOOK AT DRAMATIC AND HISTORIC

  • HEBRIDES ISLAND SCENERY.

  • PART TWO OF OUR TOUR:

  • AN ENTERTAINING BUS RIDE ACROSS THE ISLE OF MULL.

  • THE ISLAND OF MULL, IT'S A BIG ISLAND.

  • IT'S BIGGER THAN MOST FOLK REALIZE AT FIRST.

  • BIGGEST OF THE HEBRIDES.

  • 345 SQUARE MILES.

  • INDEPENDENT AS I LIKE TO TRAVEL,

  • THERE ARE CASES WHEN CONNECTING HARD-TO-GET-TO

  • RURAL DESTINATIONS WITH AN ORGANIZED BUS TOUR

  • IS TIME AND MONEY WELL SPENT.

  • ALL THE VIKINGS THAT CAME HERE

  • CAME TO SETTLE AND FARM THE LAND.

  • THERE WAS ALSO VIKING RAIDERS.

  • THEY USED TO TIME THEIR RAIDS

  • TO OCCUR EVERY FIVE OR SIX YEARS.

  • THEY SEEMED TO RECKON THIS WAS LONG ENOUGH

  • FOR ANY COMMUNITY TO GATHER SOME RICHES

  • ABOUT THEM AND THEN THE VIKINGS WOULD

  • RETURN AND RELIEVE THEM OF IT.

  • AFTER BUSING ACROSS MULL,

  • IT'S A ONE-MILE FERRY RIDE TO THE SLEEPY ISLAND OF IONA.

  • IONA IS TINY:

  • JUST ONE VILLAGE, FIVE SQUARE MILES, ALMOST NO CARS.

  • IT'S FAMOUS FOR ITS ABBEY,

  • THE BIRTHPLACE OF CHRISTIANITY IN SCOTLAND.

  • THE YEAR WAS 563.

  • A MONK NAMED COLUMBA FOUGHT A BATTLE IN IRELAND.

  • HE WON, BUT SICKENED BY THE BLOODSHED,

  • HE LEFT HIS HOMELAND VOWING NEVER TO RETURN.

  • ACCORDING TO LEGEND, THE FIRST PIECE OF LAND

  • HE SAW OUT OF SIGHT OF IRELAND WAS IONA.

  • HE STOPPED HERE AND BUILT A MONASTERY.

  • IONA BECAME THE CENTER OF CELTIC CHRISTIANITY.

  • FROM HERE, ST. COLUMBA'S MONKS SPREAD THE GOSPEL

  • THROUGHOUT SCOTLAND.

  • THIS LITTLE ISLAND WAS A CENTER OF ART AND LEARNING

  • BACK WHEN MOST OF EUROPE WAS RUTTING IN THE DARK AGE MUD.

  • THE FAMOUS BOOK OF KELLS-- THIS IS A COPY--

  • PERHAPS THE FINEST PIECE OF ART FROM WHAT'S COMMONLY CALLED

  • EUROPE'S DARK AGES,

  • WAS STARTED HERE ON IONA IN THE 8th CENTURY.

  • THE ABBEY WAS THE BURIAL PLACE FOR CHIEFS AND KINGS.

  • DOZENS OF ANCIENT SCOTTISH AND EVEN SCANDINAVIAN KINGS

  • REST HERE, INCLUDING SHAKESPEARE'S MacBETH.

  • BY ABOUT THE YEAR 800, VIKINGS WERE RAIDING.

  • AFTER ONE MASSACRE,

  • 68 MONKS WERE KILLED RIGHT HERE ON THE BEACH.

  • THE SURVIVORS PACKED UP THEIR TREASURES,

  • INCLUDING THE BOOK OF KELLS, AND RETURNED TO IRELAND.

  • AFTER CENTURIES OF PILLAGING,

  • LITTLE REMAINS OF THE ORIGINAL CHURCH.

  • BUT TODAY THE IONA COMMUNITY IS BRINGING NEW LIFE TO THE ABBEY

  • WITH A FOCUS ON PEACE, JUSTICE, AND RECONCILIATION.

  • A THOUGHTFUL CALM PERVADES SCOTLAND'S HOLY ISLE.

  • IT'S A GREAT PLACE FOR A BREAK FROM A BUSY ITINERARY.

  • AFTER A REST ON IONA, WE'RE DRIVING NORTH,

  • FARTHER INTO THE HIGHLANDS.

  • THE MILES ARE LONG, BUT THEY'RE SCENIC.

  • THE ROADS ARE GOOD AND THE TRAFFIC'S LIGHT.

  • OF COURSE, HERE IN BRITAIN YOU DRIVE ON THE LEFT-HAND SIDE

  • OF THE ROAD.

  • ORIGINALLY THAT WAS SO YOU COULD DRIVE DEFENSIVELY,

  • WITH YOUR SWORD HAND ON THE INSIDE TO DEFEND YOURSELF

  • AGAINST ONCOMING TRAFFIC.

  • YOU GET USED TO IT.

  • THE BEAUTY OF THE HIGHLANDS IS POWERFULLY FELT

  • IN THE VAST RANNOCH MOOR,

  • HUNDREDS OF DESOLATE SQUARE MILES,

  • MUCH ENJOYED BY HIKERS AND LOVERS OF NATURE.

  • [ BAGPIPES PLAYING ]

  • THE WINDY EXPANSE OF THE HIGHLANDS,

  • THIS IS WHERE PIPING FEELS RIGHT.

  • ROADSIDE PIPERS ENTERTAIN TRAVELERS FOR TIPS

  • ON THE ROAD INTO GLENCOE.

  • BOY, THAT'S GREAT.

  • THANK YOU.

  • CAN YOU GIVE ME A QUICK TOUR

  • OF YOUR GEAR AND EVERYTHING?

  • YEAH, SURE.

  • YOU'VE GOT YOUR BAG, HAND-SEWN.

  • OKAY.

  • HIDE BAG.

  • LOVELY, YEAH.

  • THEN YOU'VE GOT YOUR TWO BASS,

  • YOUR TENOR DRONE, THE BLOW PIPE.

  • TO FILL THE BAG WITH?

  • YEAH.

  • AND YOU'VE GOT YOUR STANDARD KEYBOARD.

  • IT'S WHERE YOUR MUSIC COMES FROM.

  • SO IF YOU CAN PLAY THE RECORDER, YOU CAN ACTUALLY--

  • YOU HAVE TO FILL THE BAG, BUT WE CAN PLAY--

  • CAN I GIVE IT A WHIRL?

  • YEAH.

  • OKAY.

  • SO YOU'RE GOING TO POWER THE ORGAN

  • AND THEN I WILL TRY TO COVER ALL THESE HOLES.

  • VERY GOOD.

  • MY FIRST LESSON!

  • THANKS.

  • YEAH.

  • THE VALLEY OF GLENCOE, OFTEN CALLED THE WEEPING GLEN,

  • HAS A SAD AND INTERESTING STORY.

  • GLENCOE VILLAGE IS JUST A LINE OF HOUSES.

  • ONE IS THE HUMBLE GLENCOE FOLK MUSEUM.

  • A PURELY HOME-GROWN EFFORT, IT'S FILLED WITH ARTIFACTS

  • GLEANED FROM THE TOWN'S OLD CLOSETS AND ATTICS.

  • THIS HOUSE WAS BUILT IN 1695.

  • VOLUNTEERS LIKE ARTHUR SMITH, WHO RUNS A B & B IN TOWN,

  • SHOW VISITORS AROUND.

  • RIGHT, RICK.

  • THIS IS A WEAPONS CASE.

  • DO YOU KNOW HOW THE HIGHLANDERS WERE ARMED IN THE OLD DAYS?

  • UH, NO.

  • WELL, THE REDCOATS WERE VERY FOND OF USING MUSKETS.

  • AND WE TENDED TO CARRY BROADSWORDS AND TARGES.

  • IT TOOK A REDCOAT ABOUT A MINUTE TO RELOAD A MUSKET.

  • SO WE WOULD STAND 30 YARDS AWAY FROM THEM, TWO LINES.

  • THEY WOULD FIRE.

  • WE WOULD FIRE.

  • THE REDCOATS WOULD THEN RELOAD.

  • AND IT TOOK ABOUT A MINUTE.

  • GET THE HAMMER IN, GET THE BALL IN.

  • AND WHILE THEY WERE DOING THAT, WE CHARGED.

  • OUR TARGES WERE USED FOR KNOCKING UP THE BAYONETS

  • AND THEN YOU SLASHED.

  • SO, IT WAS KNOCK AND SLASH.

  • KNOCK AND SLASH.

  • IT WAS A BIT GORY, BUT IT WORKED.

  • RIGHT.

  • UNFORTUNATELY, IT DIDN'T WORK THE LAST TIME.

  • AND AFTER THE LAST BATTLE, THE DISARMAMENT ACT CAME IN

  • AND WE HAD TO EITHER HAND IN OUR WEAPONS OR HIDE THEM.

  • AND THESE SWORDS HERE WERE HIDDEN IN THE THATCH.

  • AND THE HEATHER THATCH WAS A GREAT HIDING PLACE.

  • SO THIS SWORD WAS HIDING IN A THATCH

  • FOR 200 AND SOME ODD YEARS?

  • YES.

  • 200 YEARS ISN'T A LOT IN THE GLEN.

  • PASSES QUITE QUICKLY.

  • THIS IS AMAZING.

  • MAKING FRIENDS WITH A LOCAL, LIKE ARTHUR,

  • FILLS THE HIGHLAND SCENERY WITH MEANING.

  • DO YOU SEE THIS ISLAND HERE, RICK?

  • YEAH.

  • THAT'S THE ISLAND OF DISCUSSION.

  • IN THE OLD DAYS,

  • IF THERE WAS ANY ARGUMENTS OR QUARRELS,

  • THE PARTIES WERE TAKEN OUT AND LEFT THERE

  • WITH CHEESE AND WHISKEY AND OATCAKES,

  • AND THEY WERE LEFT THERE UNTIL THEY SORTED OUT

  • THEIR ARGUMENT AND CAME TO A CONCLUSION.

  • AND THE RESULT OF THAT IS,

  • IN 1500 YEARS OF HISTORY,

  • WE'VE ONLY HAD ONE MURDER IN THIS PLACE.

  • EFFECTIVE.

  • VERY, VERY.

  • THE ISLAND OF DISCUSSION.

  • THE ISLAND OF DISCUSSION.

  • IT WORKS.

  • SO, ARTHUR, THIS IS THE SITE

  • OF THE MASSACRE UNDER TRUST?

  • YES, IT IS THE MASSACRE OF GLENCOE.

  • THERE WAS A NEW KING IN ENGLAND,

  • AND HE PUT OUT AN EDICT THAT

  • ALL THE HIGHLAND CHIEFS HAD TO TAKE

  • AN OATH OF ALLEGIANCE TO HIM

  • BY THE 1st OF JANUARY, 1692.

  • THE CHIEF HERE WAS LATE IN TAKING IT,

  • FOUR DAYS LATE.

  • AND THEY DECIDED THAT WAS ENOUGH

  • TO MAKE AN EXAMPLE OF HIM.

  • SO THERE WAS A PARTY OF REDCOATS CAME

  • FROM FT. WILLIAM,

  • WERE BILLETED TWO OR THREE IN EACH HOUSE

  • RIGHT THROUGHOUT THE GLEN.

  • AND THEN THE NIGHT OF THE 13th OF FEBRUARY,

  • THEY TURNED ON THEIR HOSTS.

  • THEY WERE BAYONETTED OR SHOT IN THEIR BEDS,

  • THE HOUSES SET ON FIRE.

  • AND AS THE SURVIVORS FLED,

  • THERE WAS OTHER PARTIES OF REDCOATS COMING DOWN

  • THROUGH THIS PASS AND THIS PASS AND THIS PASS HERE.

  • FORTUNATELY, THEY HADN'T GUARDED THIS PASS,

  • AND MY SIX-TIMES-REMOVED GREAT-GRANDMOTHER,

  • SHE FLED UP THROUGH THERE

  • TO THE CAMPBELLS IN THE NEXT GLEN

  • AND GOT SHELTER AND HELP THERE.

  • OF THE 400 PEOPLE WHO LIVED IN THE GLEN,

  • 280 WERE KILLED.

  • THE CHIEF REALIZED HE COULD NO LONGER PROTECT

  • THE PEOPLE AND THE CHILDREN.

  • THE DRIVE FROM GLENCOE TO INVERNESS FOLLOWS

  • THE CALEDONIAN CANAL.

  • MADE UP OF THREE LAKES, OR LOCHS AS THEY'RE CALLED HERE,

  • AND OVER 20 MILES OF CANALS, IT SLICES SCOTLAND IN TWO.

  • BUILT IN THE EARLY 1800s

  • BY THE GREAT BRITISH ENGINEER THOMAS TELFORD,

  • THE CANAL PROVIDED A SHIPPING SHORTCUT

  • THROUGH RATHER THAN AROUND SCOTLAND.

  • THESE LOCHS WERE AN ENGINEERING MARVEL IN THEIR DAY.

  • THE MOST FAMOUS PART OF THE CALEDONIAN CANAL,

  • LOCH NESS.

  • THE LOCAL TOURIST INDUSTRY

  • THRIVES ON THE LEGEND OF THE MONSTER.

  • FOR A MONSTROUS DOSE OF NESSIE COMMERCIALISM,

  • DROP INTO ONE OF TWO LOCH NESS EXHIBITION CENTERS,

  • ONE CLAIMING TO BE THE ORIGINAL,

  • THE OTHER THE OFFICIAL.

  • BOTH SEEM TO DEVOTE MORE SQUARE FOOTAGE

  • TO THEIR SHOPS THAN TO THEIR EXHIBITS.

  • IT IS A THRILLING THOUGHT,

  • AND THERE HAVE BEEN SEVERAL SEEMINGLY RELIABLE SIGHTINGS

  • BY POLICE OFFICERS, MONKS, AND NOW SONAR IMAGES.

  • Tape recording: IT IS STILL FOR YOU TO JUDGE

  • WHETHER THE WATERS ARE A VEIL

  • WHICH MAY ONE DAY BE LIFTED,

  • OR A MIRROR TO OUR OWN IMAGINATION.

  • LONG AND SKINNY LOCH NESS

  • IS THE THIRD DEEPEST LAKE IN EUROPE.

  • IT'S DEEPEST NEAR THE URQUHART CASTLE.

  • THE CASTLE, WHILE AN EMPTY SHELL, IS GLORIOUSLY SITUATED

  • WITH A VIEW OF VIRTUALLY THE ENTIRE LAKE.

  • FOR ME, THE LOCH NESS MONSTER IS AS SCOTTISH

  • AS BIGFOOT IS AMERICAN.

  • I FEEL THE REAL SPIRIT OF SCOTLAND MOST DEEPLY

  • JUST BEYOND LOCH NESS AT THE BATTLEFIELD OF CULLODEN.

  • IN OUR GENERATION, SCOTLAND'S WINNING MORE AND MORE AUTONOMY

  • THE MODERN, PEACEFUL, AND DEMOCRATIC WAY.

  • BUT CENTURIES AGO,

  • IT WAS A BLOODY AND TERRIBLE STRUGGLE.

  • THE SCOTS WANTED RELIGIOUS FREEDOM

  • AND TO KEEP THEIR ANCIENT CLAN TRADITIONS.

  • THE LAST AND MOST ROMANTIC LEADER OF THIS CAUSE

  • WAS PRINCE CHARLES EDWARD STUART.

  • FOR YEARS BONNIE PRINCE CHARLIE CONFOUNDED THE ENGLISH.

  • SLIPPING FROM VALLEY TO VALLEY,

  • HIDING BEHIND CLEVER DISGUISES AND IN SYMPATHETIC FARMHOUSES,

  • HE KEPT SCOTTISH DREAMS ALIVE.

  • THOSE DREAMS ENDED HERE AT THE BATTLE OF CULLODEN IN 1746.

  • THE SCOTTISH CLANS GATHERED EVERY POSSIBLE WARRIOR,

  • BUT THEY WERE OUTNUMBERED AND OUTGUNNED BY THE REDCOATS.

  • THE HOUR-LONG BATTLE WAS A CATASTROPHE

  • FOR THE HIGHLANDERS.

  • SO RIGHT HERE AT THE BATTLE OF CULLODEN,

  • THE ENGLISH FINALLY DECISIVELY BEAT THE SCOTS.

  • WHAT WAS THE RESULT OF THAT?

  • WELL, IT WAS A DISASTER

  • FOR THE HIGHLANDS AND FOR SCOTLAND.

  • THE GOVERNMENT COMMANDER, THE DUKE OF CUMBERLAND,

  • WANTED TO TRY AN 18th CENTURY FORM

  • OF ETHNIC CLEANSING BY SHIPPING OUT

  • THE REBELLIOUS HIGHLANDERS TO THE CAROLINAS

  • AND TO THE CARIBBEAN PLANTATIONS.

  • BUT THAT DIDN'T WORK.

  • SO THEY THOUGHT THAT THE ONLY WAY

  • THAT THEY WOULD STOP THE JACOBITES

  • RISING AGAIN IN THE HIGHLANDS

  • WAS TO DESTROY THEIR CULTURE.

  • THEY DID AWAY WITH THE LANGUAGE.

  • THEY DID AWAY

  • WITH TRADITIONAL HIGHLANDS DRESS.

  • WEAPONS HAD TO BE HANDED IN.

  • AND THE BAGPIPES WERE BANNED

  • AS A WEAPON OF WAR.

  • AND IF YOU'VE EVER STOOD CLOSE

  • TO A SET OF BAGPIPES BEING PLAYED,

  • YOU MAYBE UNDERSTAND WHY.

  • BUT IT WAS A DISASTER

  • FOR TRADITIONAL HIGHLAND AND SCOTTISH CULTURE.

  • WANDERING THE BATTLEFIELD,

  • YOU FEEL SOMETHING TERRIBLE HAPPENED HERE.

  • LOCALS STILL BRING FLOWERS

  • AND SPEAK OF '46 AS IF IT WERE THIS CENTURY.

  • A FUN WAY TO TRAVEL THROUGH THE HIGHLANDS

  • IS WITH THE POSTMAN.

  • HI.

  • CAN I RIDE WITH YOU?

  • YES, NO PROBLEM.

  • THANKS.

  • WITH THE SPARSE POPULATION OF THE HIGHLANDS,

  • IN LIEU OF A BUS SERVICE,

  • THE GOVERNMENT ALLOWS PEOPLE TO RIDE WITH THE POSTMAN.

  • LOCALS DO THIS TO GET SOMEWHERE.

  • TRAVELERS, WE DO IT FOR THE CHAT

  • AND TO GET OFF THE BEATEN PATH.

  • GENERALLY, WHO TAKES ADVANTAGE OF THIS

  • HOP-A-RIDE-ON-THE-POST-BUS SYSTEM?

  • I GET REALLY A LOT OF HILL WALKERS AND CLIMBERS,

  • AND IN THE SUMMERTIME I GET A LOT OF OLDER PEOPLE

  • WHO LIKE TO COME AROUND

  • WHO DON'T WANT TO DRIVE AROUND THEMSELVES.

  • IS THIS GOOD HIKING COUNTRY?

  • THIS IS GOOD HIKING COUNTRY, YES.

  • IT'S MY PRIVILEGE TO WELCOME YOU TO

  • KILMORE AND KILBRIDE HIGHLAND GAMES

  • ON THIS BRIGHT, SUNNY AFTERNOON.

  • AND I HOPE YOU ALL ENJOY YOURSELVES,

  • BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY,

  • THAT YOU LEARN SOMETHING OF OUR HIGHLAND CULTURE,

  • WHICH WE NATURALLY ARE VERY, VERY PROUD OF.

  • [ GUNSHOT ]

  • STUMBLING UPON A SMALL TOWN FESTIVAL, IT'S CLEAR:

  • SCOTTISH SPIRIT NOT ONLY SURVIVED CULLODEN, IT THRIVES.

  • WHILE SCOTLAND IS STILL A PART OF THE UNITED KINGDOM,

  • LOCAL GOVERNMENT AUTHORITY HAS COME HOME.

  • FOR THE FIRST TIME SINCE 1707,

  • THE SCOTTISH PARLIAMENT IS NOW MEETING IN SCOTLAND.

  • IF BONNIE PRINCE CHARLIE AND HIS TROOPS WERE ALIVE TODAY,

  • THEY'D BE HERE CELEBRATING.

  • [ BAGPIPES PLAYING ]

  • THROUGHOUT SCOTLAND,

  • COMMUNITIES GATHER FOR TRADITIONAL GAMES,

  • MUSIC, AND DANCING COMPETITIONS.

  • HIGHLAND DANCING PREDATES BAGPIPES IN SCOTLAND.

  • THE ANCIENT STEPS HAVE BEEN HANDED DOWN

  • FROM GENERATION TO GENERATION.

  • [ APPLAUSE ]

  • PUT IT AGAINST YOUR NECK.

  • OH, YEAH!

  • HANDS TOGETHER, RIGHT?

  • RIGHT.

  • OKAY, NOW WHAT AM I

  • SUPPOSED TO DO WITH THIS THING?

  • THE HEAVY EVENTS ARE ALWAYS THE HIT OF THE GAMES.

  • BRAWNY LADS COMPETE FOR PRIZE MONEY

  • BY HEAVING ALL KINDS OF HEAVY THINGS.

  • WHILE THE SHOT PUT WENT INTERNATIONAL

  • ONLY ABOUT 100 YEARS AGO,

  • IT'S BEEN BIG IN SCOTLAND FOR CENTURIES.

  • I GOT IT.

  • ARE YOU OKAY?

  • YEAH, I'M FINE.

  • OKAY.

  • OOH!

  • AND SPEAKING OF HEAVY EVENTS, THIS GADGET WEIGHS 56 POUNDS.

  • NO HIGHLAND GAMES ARE COMPLETE WITHOUT TOSSING THE CABER.

  • THE OBJECT: FLIP THE TREE TRUNK,

  • ALL 20 FEET TALL AND 140 POUNDS OF IT,

  • END OVER END, KEEPING IT IN A STRAIGHT LINE.

  • WHATEVER IT TAKES TO CONNECT WITH THE CULTURE,

  • GOOD TRAVEL MEANS GIVE IT A GO.

  • I HOPE YOU ENJOYED OUR LOOK AT SCOTLAND.

  • JOIN US AGAIN FOR MORE TRAVEL FUN.

  • I'M RICK STEVES.

  • UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELIN'.

  • OKAY.

  • SHORT SPRINT, STOP.

  • SHORT SPRINT, STOP.

  • GO!

  • GIVE ME FIVE!

  • THERE.

  • I SEE THE MEN RUNNING AFTER THEIR BALLS

  • WHEN THEY THROW, WHEN THEY PLAY A GAME, YOU KNOW.

  • WHY DO THEY DO THAT?

  • EXCITEMENT.

  • YEAH, BECAUSE THEY'RE

  • RUNNING DOWN THE THING, IT'S SO CUTE.

  • DO YOU EVER RUN AFTER YOUR BALLS WHEN YOU'RE DOING THIS?

  • NO, I DON'T.

  • AND YOU GOT...

  • THIS IS THE DIRK.

  • YOU GET A SMALL KNIFE AND FORK.

  • Steves: [ Laughing ] FOR SOME CLASSY EATING.

  • FOR CLASSY EATING WHEN YOU'RE IN BATTLE, YEAH.

  • IT'S VERY COMFORTABLE.

  • YOU FEEL REALLY GOOD AT A DANCE WHEN YOUR KILT'S SWINGING.

  • SEE YOU LATER.

  • BYE. DON'T FORGET NOW,

  • NEEPS AND TATTIES, TURNIP AND POTATOES.

  • BYE THEN.

  • BYE.

HI. I'M RICK STEVES, GLAD TO BE YOUR TRAVEL PARTNER AGAIN

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