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  • It�s a land piled high with ice.

  • Whipped by fierce winds.

  • And powerful ocean currents.

  • In a world buffeted by rising temperatures, rising sea levels, and changing climate patterns,

  • what is the fate of Antarctica?

  • If you could go back to a time 250 million years ago.

  • What�s now the frozen continent of Antarctica, was a land of forests and flowing water.

  • In a warmer, wetter world, it harbored a wide diversity of plants and animals.

  • In this period, known as the Permian, Antarctica was at the southern end of a vast single continent

  • that spanned the globe, called Pangaea.

  • Within the sweeping evolution of this grand continent, a single event would reverberate

  • down through history.

  • An asteroid headed toward the southern hemisphere.

  • At up to fifty kilometers in diameter, it would have been four to five times larger

  • than the one thought to have killed off the dinosaurs.

  • It crashed into a region that�s now part of East Antarctica, but its impact was global

  • in scale.

  • One theory is that it sent powerful seismic waves to the exact opposite, or antipodal,

  • side of the Earth.

  • On what�s now Siberian Russia, a plume of magma pushed up through Earth�s crust. For

  • tens of thousands of years, lava flooded the landscape.

  • A release of toxic elements, a rush of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere, acid rain, all

  • led to one of the worst mass extinctions in history.

  • 70% of all species on the planet vanished.

  • On Earth, traces of most major impacts are obscured by erosion or geological activity.

  • A new type of observational tool is now allowing scientists to see them.

  • In 2002, they launched the twin spacecraft of the GRACE mission, short for Gravity Recovery

  • and Interior Laboratory.

  • Its goal was to map subsurface features by measuring variations in Earth�s gravity.

  • A gravitational surge or a dip causes the distance between the two craft to change,

  • which GRACE measures down to the width of a human hair.

  • Down along the Eastern part of Antarctica, GRACE detected an immense subsurface presence.

  • Scientists matched it up with subtle rings etched on the wider landscape, and with chemical

  • traces found in nearby mountains. They concluded that a large meteor had struck at the end

  • of the Permian.

  • It would have a lasting impact on Antarctica�s long and tumultuous journey.

  • That journey began in the break up of an immense continent known as Rodinia, beginning around

  • 750 million years ago.

  • In those days, Antarctica basked in the tropical sun.

  • Some 300 million years later, as Earth�s landmasses reshuffled into the supercontinent

  • Pangaea.

  • When Pangaea finally fragmented, Antarctica began a steady drive toward the southern pole

  • as part of the great southern continent of Gondwana.

  • At around 130 million years ago, a series of rifts developed in Earth�s crust, tearing

  • South America and Africa away from Gondwana.

  • Australia finally split off at about 85 million years ago, leaving Antarctica on its own.

  • Because the rift between the two cuts through the Permian crater, one theory holds that

  • the force of the impact may have actually initiated it.

  • Now separated from its sister landmasses, Antarctica carried a rich biological legacy,

  • evident in fossils recently pulled from the frozen ground.

  • The Cryolophosaurus, from 190 million years ago, was in a class of meat eaters called

  • theropods.

  • These bipedal creatures gave rise to some of the fiercest predators ever, including

  • TRex, as well as modern-day birds.

  • Out on the West Antarctic Peninsula, scientists turned up a smaller theropod from 70 million

  • years ago. This swift predator would have grown to about two meters in length.

  • From the same period, another group found a young plesiosaur, a marine reptile that

  • plied warm Southern Oceans.

  • If it had reached adulthood, it would have grown to around 10 meters in length.

  • From a continent that once hosted dinosaurs, Antarctica grew steadily more hostile to life.

  • Wind the clock forward, to 50 million years ago.

  • All around the world, warm conditions were giving way to cooler, drier times.

  • The new era saw a decline in the heat-trapping atmospheric gas, carbon dioxide.

  • Around Antarctica, conifers and other cold-tolerant plants took hold.

  • In some areas, they gradually turned to tundra.

  • Ice remained year round, gradually forming a thick sheet.

  • At the same time, powerful wind currents circling the pole from west to east drove the circumpolar

  • ocean current.

  • Known as the mightiest current in the world, it helped shield the continent from tropical

  • waters to the north.

  • A combination of factors came together: declining CO2, the isolation of Antarctica, and the

  • tendency of permanent ice stores to reflect more solar energy back to space.

  • At around two and a half million years ago, Earth entered the last great ice age, the

  • one we live in, called the Quaternary.

  • Year after year, as storms rolled off the oceans, they deposited layer upon layer of

  • snow and ice across Antarctica.

  • Today, fully 70 percent of all the fresh water on the planet is here, in ice that averages

  • nearly two kilometers in thickness.

  • Antarctica today is known as the windiest, driest, and coldest place on Earth.

  • There are no permanent human populations, only a few thousand scientists and support

  • workers living at scattered research stations.

  • At the Russian Vostok station, in July 1983, scientists documented the lowest natural temperature

  • on record: -89.2 degrees Celsius.

  • A recent calculation based on satellite data went even lower, to -93.2 degrees Celsius.

  • But as cold and isolated as it is, Antarctica is not immune to changes in the larger environment.

  • Take, for example, this reconstruction of the continent during the last glacial maximum,

  • 20 thousand years ago.

  • Compare it to this image of the current interglacial period. It shows how much ice the continent

  • has shed.

  • In recent years, the rate of ice loss has picked up speed.

  • Scientists have turned to satellites to find out where and how quickly this trend is playing

  • out.

  • In these images, from the GRACE mission, areas that lost ice are shown in blue, while orange

  • and red gained ice.

  • European scientists backed up this finding with radar data from the Cryosat-2 spacecraft.

  • By tracking changes in the elevation of Antarctic ice, they found that the continent lost on

  • average 159 billion tons of ice each year from 2010 to 2013.

  • That�s an increase of 31% per year over the previous five years.

  • Like GRACE, Cryosat-2 found that the greatest losses have occurred in West Antarctica, especially

  • where a series of fast-flowing glaciers empty into the Amundsen Sea.

  • A small number of scientists were warning about this as far back as the 1960s.

  • The reason, they pointed out, is the intensification of winds that encircle the continent.

  • As the temperature difference with northern regions has increased, these winds have picked

  • up speed.

  • To sailors brave enough to venture into them, the southern ocean once offered the quickest

  • route around the world.

  • Nowadays, stronger winds have had the effect of drawing to the surface relatively warm

  • water that occurs naturally in the depths of the ocean.

  • These warmer waters have begun to undermine a series of vast floating ice shelves that

  • extend out from inland glaciers.

  • Scientists, using data from the IceSat spacecraft, documented this effect by correlating areas

  • of greatest ice loss with the location of submarine troughs that can funnel the warm

  • water up.

  • These satellite images from over a decade ago show the effect this can have. Out on

  • the West Antarctic Peninsula, the Larsen ice shelf extended out over the ocean.

  • This image, from early February of 2002, shows Larsen beginning to splinter.

  • By March 7th of that year, this ice shelf, hundreds of meters thick, broke apart. Countless

  • icebergs tumbled into the sea.

  • Without the shelf�s buttressing effect, the glaciers behind it picked up speed, dumping

  • an additional 27 cubic kilometers of ice into the ocean each year.

  • That has led scientists to monitor the other great ice shelves of west Antarctica.

  • One team set up its base on the Pine Island Glacier, where it juts out into the Amundsen

  • Sea. From the surface, they drilled down through 500 meters of ice to track changes in temperature,

  • salinity, currents, and ice volume.

  • They found that warmer waters had been eroding the underside of the ice shelf, with melt

  • rates of about 6 centimeters per day, or about 22 meters per year.

  • Another group has been using satellite and airborne radar to track the changes on a regional

  • scale.

  • Red shows where the glaciers are traveling at their highest speeds, at the intersection

  • of ice and ocean.

  • The flow speed is steadily increasing. The darker the red, the faster the ice is moving.

  • Some of the most dramatic changes have been observed on the Smith glacier, one of the

  • smallest in this group.

  • Back in 1996, this is where water, ice, and land met beneath Smith.

  • By 2011, that so-calledgrounding linehad moved 35 kilometers farther back, a retreat

  • of more than two kilometers per year.

  • Now peel off the ice from the continent. The red arrows show the highest flow rates.

  • You can see that these fast moving glaciers sit within valleys, some of which are below

  • sea level.

  • The more the grounding lines retreat, the more seawater can creep into the sub-glacial

  • basins.

  • For most of the glaciers, there are no major barriers such as hills or mountains that would

  • slow them down once they get going.

  • The danger is the more the glaciers speed up, the more likely the ice sheets behind

  • them will collapse.

  • If that happens, it may not be completely due to climate change.

  • Scientists have found that the flow of water beneath some glaciers is too high to come

  • just from seawater.

  • The Transantarctic Mountains, dividing East and West Antarctica, are the product of a

  • rift that is occurring in the underlying crustal plate.

  • Scientists have detected seismic activity they say is consistent with magma moving within

  • the crust over 25 kilometers down.

  • They have now found there is a significant amount of geothermal activity beneath one

  • of the largest glaciers, the Thwaites, to account for the extra melting.

  • To date, most studies of future sea level rise have focused on the ice sheets of Greenland

  • and Western Antarctica. Together, they would account for up to 12 meters of sea level rise.

  • The massive East Antarctic ice sheet has been largely ignored. Because of its sheer size

  • and unwavering cold, it has seemed impervious to warming trends in the north.

  • New research has given scientists reason to wonder how stable it really is.

  • One new study takes us back to a period called the Pliocene, from about 5 to 2.5 million

  • years ago. Back then, global temperatures and atmospheric CO2 concentrations were about

  • where they are projected to be at the end of this century.

  • Sea levels are thought to have been at least 20 meters higher than today.

  • If any part of East Antarctica had melted, it would have been here in a region called

  • Wilkes Land.

  • This is where the GRACE satellites detected signs of the massive Permian impact.

  • If the glaciers of Wilkes Land are prone to melting in warmer times, then erosion would have washed

  • its distinctive volcanic soils into the sea.

  • By drilling down into ocean sediments, scientists were able to find them just off shore.

  • They concluded that in the Pliocene, seawater was able to erode rocks about 160 kilometers

  • inland in an area called the Wilkes Sub-glacial Basin.

  • How stable is the Wilkes ice sheet today?

  • Currently, it is said to be in balance. This means the amount of ice that melts or falls

  • into the sea is replaced by new ice that forms inland.

  • Scientists used a computer simulation to find out what it would take to throw Wilkes out

  • of balance.

  • A crucial factor in their calculation is a zone in which the ice shelf is wedged against

  • a series of ridges on the sea bottom. These ridges act as a stopper, preventing the glacier,

  • and the ice sheet behind it, from moving forward.

  • If warmer waters were to undermine the ice that rests on these ridges, then the ice sheet

  • could begin to move out to sea.

  • The effect has been described as that of a bottle of water tilted downward. Remove the

  • stopper, and gravity empties it out.

  • For a glacier, once the ice starts flowing, there would be no stopping it.

  • How plausible is this scenario?

  • On the much smaller Pine Island glacier, scientists have shown that the ice shelf has

  • already broken free of an undersea ridge.

  • The disintegration of coastal Antarctic glaciers is a process that would take centuries to

  • run its course. But once it gets going, it would mean a steady rise of sea levels for

  • the foreseeable future.

  • The changes we experience in our everyday lives are shaped mostly by near-term developments,

  • in technology, politics, and culture.

  • Some of the bedrocks of modern life, cities like New York, Hong Kong, London, and seaports

  • around the world, have grown and evolved on the scale of centuries.

  • Within the long arc of their histories, rising seas could threaten their existence in a relatively

  • short time frame.

  • The emerging story of ice sheet melting and sea level rise is often couched in uncertainties,

  • with the drama of what�s happening damped by the rational language of science.

  • Critics focus on the margins of error inherent in the scientific process, or downplay the

  • predictive power of computer simulations.

  • Politicians debate, while conspiracy theories abound.

  • One of the lessons of Antarctica is that our choices are beginning to narrow. The trends

  • we see now will increasingly shape the fate of Antarctica, and that of the world we know.

  • 3

It�s a land piled high with ice.

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