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  • Our journey begins on the coast at Saint Nazaire and the mouth of the River Loire. And along

  • the river valley are some of the finest castles, palaces and houses in France. As we head up

  • river past Nante, the main towns on our journey will be Angers, Tours, Blois and Orleans.

  • Some of the palaces we will see are enormous, and built over 400 years ago. Many of the

  • castles date back even further in time. At Orleans we head north east away from the river

  • to end our journey at two palaces -- Fontainebleau, and then on to one of the architectural masterpieces

  • of Europe -- Vaux-le-Vicomte.

  • Saint Nazaire, on the north bank of the Loire estuary, came into prominence during the 19th

  • century when the harbour expanded, ship building began and the railway arrived.

  • The harbour is perhaps most famous for the daring, and successful, British Commando raid

  • during World War Two, when an old ship, full of explosives, was rammed into the dock gates

  • to prevent the use of the dry dock by large German battleships.

  • The Germans used Saint Nazaire as a base for naval operations in the Atlantic, and inside

  • the harbour is an enormous old German U-Boat pen with concrete in incredible nine metres

  • thick, and capable of withstanding any allied bomb. Even today its construction makes demolition

  • uneconomical. The base is now used by cafes, a bar and on the roof is an exhibition about

  • the harbour.

  • The river Loire is the longest one in France at 1,012 kilometres. It has been referred

  • to as the 'Garden of France' and studded with hundreds of historic estates, as well as the

  • many famous French wine regions that line the banks - Muscadet, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé.

  • The city of Angers lies in the Loire Valley three miles north of the river on a small

  • tributary.

  • The Chateau d'Angers has a history stretching back to the Romans who had a fort on the site.

  • The seventeen massive towers were built in the 14th century, and reduced in height during

  • the 16th century with the stone used for developing the growing town.

  • Further damage was done to the castle during the German occupation of World War Two when

  • a munitions dump inside the chateau exploded. But, even with all that's happened to the

  • castle over the years, it's still an impressive sight.

  • An equally impressive site and the first many on this journey is the Chateau du Plessis-Bourré.

  • It was built in only five years from 1468 and has been very little altered externally

  • since then. It even has the original working drawbridge.

  • The style of conical roofs is something which can be seen in many of the houses and palaces

  • along the Loire Valley.

  • The river provides water for the fertile valley where farmland and vineyards are interspersed.

  • Large parts of the landscape are also forested, with many of them going back to medieval days

  • when they were used as hunting parks attached to the different chateau along the valley.

  • The Chateau de Saumur stands on the edge of a forest overlooking the river. It was built

  • in the 13th and later became the home of the Dukes of Anjou.

  • Over the centuries it has been used as a military barracks and a state prison under Napoleon

  • Bonaparte. Today it is undergoing extensive restoration.

  • Another castle is ten miles to the south on a small tributary of the Loire - the Chateau

  • de Montreuil-Bellay.

  • The castle seen today dates from the 13th century, with the turreted curtain wall built

  • in the 15th century.

  • During the French Revolution it was taken over by the new government and turned into

  • a women's prison for suspected royalists. Later it was bought by a rich local merchant

  • and over the next two hundred years the Castle has had several different owners who have

  • helped preserve and restore the building.

  • Standing in the middle of farmland is the stronghold of the Chateau du Rivau.

  • The castle was once four sided with turret towers on each corner. As the turrets projected

  • out from the wall they were able to protect the entrance with an enemy trying to get across

  • the drawbridge.

  • Since 1992 the castle has undergone a great deal of restoration. The design of the castle

  • is in a classic 15th century French style and designed to show off the power and wealth

  • of the owner.

  • By the 17th century styles had changed and the Chateau d'Oiron, on the southern edge

  • of the Loire Valley, has been built as a house rather than a fortress, and the design has

  • been influenced by classical ideas from ancient Rome.

  • At the end of the 17th century the house was lived in by Madame de Montespan, King Louis

  • XIV's mistress, after he had tired of her.

  • The Chateau was then ransacked in the 1790's during the French Revolution and left largely

  • abandoned until it was bought by the State in the 1930's and turned into a very successful

  • modern art museum.

  • On the north bank of the River Vienne, close to where it meets the Loire is the Chateau

  • de Chinon. This massive fortress was built in the 12th century by King Henry II of England,

  • who was also ruler of this area of France, which at the time was the separate kingdom

  • of Anjou.

  • King Henry died in the castle and he and his wife Eleanor of Aquitaine, as well as his

  • son Richard the Lionheart, are all buried in a nearby abbey.

  • The castle was partially restored in the in the 19th century.

  • At the confluence of the Vienne and Loire rivers is the Chateau de Montsoreau, built

  • in 1455 as a strategic fortress controlling river traffic along the Loire.

  • Like so many other castles in the Loire Valley it was in near ruins by the end of the 19th

  • century, until it was bought by the local council and eventually restored and turned

  • into a museum

  • On another tributary of the Loire is the Chateau d'Azay-le-Rideau. It was built by a rich financier

  • who wished to establish his new nobility. It was designed in the first stirrings of

  • the new French Renaissance style of the early 16th century, and sits in a dammed section

  • of the River Indre.

  • The 19th century writer Honoré de Balzac described the Chateau d'Azay-le-Rideau as

  • bathing in the Indre River like a princely creature.

  • The Chateau de Villandry is also built in the French Renaissance style and incorporates

  • a 14th tower fortress, but what marks this Chateau out from the others is the spectacular

  • formal garden.

  • Once owned by Napoleon's brother, Joseph Bonaparte, the Chateau fell into disrepair and was on

  • the verge of being demolished before being bought by a Spanish doctor, Joachim Carvallo,

  • in 1906. He then poured an enormous amount of time, money and devotion into restoring

  • the chateau and creating one of the most beautiful gardens in the world. And like many other

  • Chateau of the Loire it is now a World Heritage Site.

  • The gardens are laid out in a classic formal style with several kilometres of box hedging.

  • There are all sorts of water features, ornamental flower gardens and even a vegetable parterre.

  • Ten miles up the Loire is the largest city in Central France -- Tours. The 12th century

  • cathedral stands on the south bank of the river. It was the arrival of the railway in

  • the 19th century that saw the city revive its fortunes as it began to expand into the

  • surrounding countryside. And in that countryside are some of the hundreds of vineyards that

  • lie along its banks.

  • And in the Vouvray wine region is the vineyard at the Chateau Moncontour, which is one of

  • the oldest along the Loire Valley. Way back in the 10th century caves were excavated in

  • the river bank to mature and preserve the wine.

  • By the 15th century Vouvray's fame had spread across much of Northern Europe and the vineyards

  • cultivated in the best position overlooking the river.

  • The chateau itself dates back to the 15th century though it was severely damaged by

  • fire and nearly destroyed during the French Revolution. In fact going back even further

  • in time to the 4th century the estate belonged to the Bishops' of Tours.

  • Vouvray is made from the Chenin Blanc grape, which can be enjoyed in dry wines, sweet ones

  • and also in a sparkling version. Due to the abundant acidity Vouvray can age for quite

  • some time, and also some varieties can be drunk when young.

  • Up river is the royal Chateau d'Amboise, which King Charles VII seized from Louis d'Amboise

  • in 1434 after condemning him to death for plotting against the crown.

  • Charles then set about extensively rebuilding the chateau into a favourite of French kings

  • during the 16th century. He also laid out the first formal renaissance style garden

  • in France.

  • Like so many other palaces along the Loire it fell into disrepair over the centuries

  • and large parts were demolished, but it is still an imposing sight.

  • As is the Pagoda of Chanteloup, the only surviving bit of the now demolished Chateau de Chanteloup.

  • This Chinese inspired tower is 44 metres tall and rather like a wedding cake has seven tiers.

  • Inside a staircase allows visitors to climb to the top and look down into the semi-circular

  • reflecting pool.

  • The pagoda was built by the Duc de Choiseuil in 1775 when he was exiled to his estate for

  • defying King Louis XV. He saw it as a temple of friendship for all his friends who came

  • to see him during his disgrace.

  • This is the Chateau de Chenonceau, and surely one of the most sublime in the Loire Valley.

  • With the palace built across the River Cher and the arches reflected in the still water

  • the sheer beauty of Chenonceau has made it the most visited of all the chateau of the

  • Loire.

  • The main chateau was built in the 1520's but was later seized by the crown for unpaid debts.

  • It was then given to the King Henry II's mistress Diane de Poitiers, who improved the house

  • and built a bridge across the river.

  • After the king's death his wife and regent, Catherine de Medici, had Diane de Poitier

  • expelled from Chenonceau by 'exchanging' it for the Chateau de Chaumont, which we will

  • see later.

  • In the 1560's Catherine de Medici would spend a fortune on the house, and most importantly

  • build a gallery on top of the bridge that gives Chenonceau its shape today. She also

  • replanted the garden in a formal style.

  • The queen held spectacular parties, often at night, and it is said she held the first

  • ever firework display in France.

  • After her death in 1589 the house went through a series of owners until one of them in the

  • early 18th century sold off all the contents.

  • The house was saved during the revolution because the bridge was the only one for many

  • miles. In 1913 the Menier family, famous for their chocolates, bought the chateau, restored

  • it, and still own it today.

  • And in a final thought, Chenonceau played a part during World War Two, as the bridge

  • separated Nazi occupied France with the 'French free zone' on the opposite bank and was used

  • by many people to escape.

  • Continuing upstream along the Loire is the Chateau de Chaumont, which Diane de Poitier

  • moved to after being forced out of Chenonceau.

  • The chateau was built on a hill overlooking the river in the early 1500's in a medieval

  • fortress style but decorated with some early renaissance details.

  • In the 18th century the north wing of the castle was demolished to provide a better

  • view of the river.

  • After much neglect the state bought Chaumont in 1938 and it is now a museum.

  • Ten miles up the Loire is the town of Blois and the enormous royal chateau, a residence

  • of several French kings.

  • The Chateau de Blois was built between the 13th and 17th century and comprises several

  • buildings around the main courtyard. The palace has 564 rooms, each with its own fireplace,

  • 75 staircases and 100 bedrooms.

  • One of the best known parts of the palace is the monumental staircase built in 1515.

  • It is covered with decorative sculpture and dominates the central courtyard.

  • At the end of this long avenue is the Chateau de Cheverny, which was completed in 1650 for

  • the Hurault family. The house has been built in a rigidly symmetrical design with a roof

  • line which seem to break the house into five separate sections.

  • During the French Revolution the family had to give up much of their wealth and were forced

  • to sell the house in 1802, but, bought it back in 1834.

  • In 1914 the chateau was opened to the public, one of the first great French houses to do

  • so.

  • Children visiting the chateau may well feel they recognise it, because the Belgian comic

  • book creator Hergé used Cheverny as the inspiration for Marlinspike Hall in his Adventures of

  • Tintin books

  • A few miles to the north on the edge of a large forest is the Chateau de Villsavin,

  • built in the 1530's for Jean Le Breton.

  • The chateau was constructed by the master craftsmen who had worked at the royal palaces

  • on the Loire. This was because Jean de Breton was secretary of finance to King Francois

  • I and also superintendent of works for the 'hunting lodge' that the king was building

  • in a forest four miles away -- The Chateau de Chambord.

  • This is perhaps one of the best known and most recognisable chateaux in the world, because

  • of its enormous size and distinctive French Renaissance style. It is a mixture of old

  • medieval forms with new classical ideas from Italy.

  • The enormous roof line is a mass of intricate designs of chimneys and cupolas that almost

  • resemble a skyline of a fantasy town.

  • The project was so enormous and costly that it was never finished and only the central

  • section and north side were completed. So who designed this enormous palace. One suggestion

  • is that Leonardo da Vinci, who had been a guest of King Francois at another Loire chateau,

  • was responsible for the original design. However, there is no real evidence to prove it. In

  • fact it is still a matter of controversy as to who the architect of Chambord was

  • The king spent barely seven weeks a year at the chateau on short hunting visits. And any

  • visit at the time meant that all the furniture and wall coverings had to be transported,

  • unpacked and then packed up after the hunting trip finished.

  • Future kings largely abandoned Chambord and Napoleon gave it to one of his generals, who

  • then sold it. After many owners, who tried to look after it, the state took over and

  • it is now a very popular museum.

  • Today the River Loire has around 150 bridges across it, with many going back centuries.

  • This is the bridge at Beaugency, which has a history stretching back to the 14th century.

  • Over the years the bridge has been extended, repaired and parts rebuilt. The different

  • shaped arches give a clue to all this work.

  • Over the centuries floods and ice in winter have caused much damage.

  • War also played its part, because in 1870 one span was destroyed on the order of the

  • French military during the Franco-Prussian War.

  • In the 1970's this historic bridge, which was becoming unstable, was completely restored

  • and shored up.

  • Today the River Loire is navigable for large boats for only about thirty miles, but Two

  • hundred years ago the river was an important trading route and flat bottomed barges could

  • travel over 200 miles upstream to Orleans.

  • The city is dominated by one of the largest cathedrals in France - Sainte- Croix d'Orleans,

  • which was first built in the 13th century and then rebuilt in the 16th century after

  • being damaged in war.

  • At Orleans the River Loire bends to the south and our journey heads north east to a royal

  • palace.

  • This is the Palace of Fontainebleau -- and the work of many French monarchs. It was begun

  • back in the 16th century, and is arranged around a series of courtyards.

  • It was Francois the first, creator of Chambord, who built the first courtyard. Succeeding

  • French kings then added the other ones

  • But by the middle of the 17th century Fontainebleau began a steady decline as the palace of Versailles

  • took over the interest of King Louis XIV.

  • During the French Revolution of the late 18th century the entire contents of the Fontainebleau

  • were sold off to ensure it could not be used as a royal palace again. However, within a

  • decade Napoleon Bonaparte began to transform the palace into a symbol of his grandeur.

  • And it was here in 1814 that he bade an emotional farewell to his Old Guard before going into

  • exile on the Isle of Elba.

  • A few miles to the north is the final destination of this journey and one of the greatest architectural

  • masterpieces of not only France, but of the world -- The Chateau de Vaux-le-Vicomte

  • In 1641 a young parliamentarian called Nicolas Fouquet bought an old castle and estate at

  • Vaux-le-Vicomte. Fifteen years later he had risen to the powerful position of finance

  • minister to King Louis XIV. And in this position he was able to amass a small fortune, which

  • meant he could begin construction of what was to become the finest chateau and garden

  • in France.

  • The spectacular achievement we see today was the result of Fouquet picking the best people

  • to carry out his dream. The first was the architect Louis Le Vau, the second was the

  • painter and decorator Charles Le Brun and the third was the garden designer Andre le

  • tré. Working closely with their patron they were to create not only a spectacular

  • house but also a centre and haven for leading French artists of the day all of whom contributed

  • to the beauty of Vaux.

  • For the plan of the garden to work Fouquet purchased, and then demolished, three villages.

  • The displaced villagers were then employed in the upkeep and maintenance of the gardens.

  • It was said that he employed eighteen thousand workers to create the gardens at a staggering

  • cost in today's money of around 150 million dollars.

  • All this wealth and influence meant Fouquet had enemies and they conspired to ruin him.

  • In August of 1661 Fouquet held a spectacular garden party for the King to show off his

  • new house and garden. It was to be his downfall, because it was not a good idea to outshine

  • the king, who had Fouquet arrested for embezzlement and imprisoned for life.

  • Louis then confiscated most of the furniture, tapestries and pictures, as well as all the

  • garden statues and orange trees. He also took the three designers, Le Vau, Le Brun and Le

  • Notre and put them to work on his new palace -- Versailles.

  • By 1875 Vaux-the chateau was in a terrible state, but luckily for us today it was bought

  • by Alfred Sommier and slowly, along with his descendants, brought back to life, so that

  • visitors can marvel at this quite fantastic palace and garden -- a perfect place to end

  • this journey.

Our journey begins on the coast at Saint Nazaire and the mouth of the River Loire. And along

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