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  • Our journey begins to the north of Montreux at the medieval hilltop town Romont.

  • Heading east and deeper into the mountains, we'll discover the Chartreuse de la Valsainte,

  • an ancient hermetic monastery.

  • We'll fly southward to Lake Geneva, to Montreux itself: famous the world over for

  • its annual Jazz Festival.

  • It's then into the mountains, and the famous ski resort of Verbier.

  • Moving eastward, we'll weave through the spectacular mountain passes of Valais, before taking a

  • brief passage through northern Italy.

  • Once back in Switzerland, we'll visit the cities of Locarno and Ascona on the shores

  • of Lake Maggiore.

  • We'll end our journey over the Brissago Islands, with its unexpected botanical gardens sitting

  • out in the middle of the lake.

  • Here in the French-speaking region of Switzerland, we find the picturesque medieval town of Romont.

  • Its name is an abbreviation of Rotundo Monte, or "the round mountain", describing the gently

  • sloping hill upon which it sits.

  • It is most known for the beauty of its ancient stained glass windows that decorate many of

  • its old stone churches and sanctuaries.

  • Romont passed between royal houses throughout the Middle Ages, and eventually sided with

  • the Helvetic Republic, which was the first early manifestation of Switzerland as a unified

  • state.

  • The town's well-preserved fortifications, streets, and buildings are of such great historical

  • significance that the entire town is on the Swiss inventory of heritage sites.

  • Moving Eastward and deeper into the mountains, we come to the last remaining Carthusian monastery

  • in all of Switzerland...

  • Chartreuse de la Valsainte.

  • The Carthusian sect has a way of life based on a mix of hermetic isolation and communal

  • living.

  • Monks here spend most of each day in their cells - meditating, praying, and writing.

  • But this isolation is interspersed with communal prayers and long group walks through the mountainous

  • countryside.

  • Although the community feeling amongst the monks is strong and encouraged, contact with

  • the outside world is limited. Only one visit a year from family members is permitted.

  • Continuing eastward we arrive at Gruyere castle, standing guard at the head of the quaint medieval

  • town of the same name.

  • Construction began in the 11th century to protect the townsfolk in the valley below.

  • From then up until the 16th century the town flourished; and 19 counts and their families

  • resided here over the years. The last of these, Michel, fell into financial difficulties in

  • 1554, after which the prominent Bovy and Ballan royal houses restored the castle into a summer

  • residence.

  • In 1938 the Fribourg municipality bought it, and now together with its gardens opened it

  • up to the public.

  • The wealth of Gruyere's old town has traditionally come from agriculture - most importantly,

  • Gruyere cheese's now famous the world over.

  • A popular tourist spot, the town has nevertheless managed to retain the bucolic, peaceful atmosphere

  • for its 1,500 residents.

  • But, despite the town's love for the old ways of life, it has produced some very progressive

  • characters.

  • H.R. Giger, for instance, the famous Swiss designer who is well-known for his work on

  • the Alien movies, was born and raised here. And recently a museum which holds the largest

  • collection of his works was established.

  • Now we move south and away from the mountains, to the city of Montreux, on the shores of

  • Lake Geneva. The border between Switzerland and France runs through the centre of this

  • lake, and as a result Montreux has become a vibrant intersection of cultures.

  • But without doubt the city is most renowned for its famous annual music festival. It started

  • in the 1960's but reached heights of new fame when Deep Purple wrote the song "Smoke on

  • the Water", which recounts the night Frank Zappa set the Casino on fire with a flare

  • gun during a concert.

  • These days Montreux often receives 200,000 visitors a year and throngs of respected international

  • artists.

  • And leading up from the city is this funicular railway.

  • One of the carriages descends while the other is pulled upwards, keeping the system always

  • in balance: a very effective and energy efficient way to gain plenty of altitude in a short

  • amount of time - quite important in these Swiss mountain towns.

  • The ride takes passengers through fields of beautiful Alpine flowers in the spring; and

  • provides a quick lift for recreational sledgers in the winter.

  • As we move along the northern shore of Lake Geneva over Autoroute 9, you can see why Switzerland

  • is famous for its spectacular mountain roads.

  • The highway below is a perfect example of the difficult feats of engineering employed

  • to maintain the natural aesthetic of the countryside.

  • And perhaps more enviable than these wonderful roads, is Switzerland's remarkably extensive

  • rail network through the alps - which runs on a highly efficient and practical schedule.

  • Almost all services are timed so that connecting trains arrive at precise intervals. This means

  • that passengers rarely have to wait around for a connection.

  • And the services are so dependable, you can more or less set your watch by them.

  • Located on the eastern shore of Lake Geneva lies the spectacular Chateau de Chillon.

  • The medieval fortress began as a number of separate buildings, and over the centuries

  • they merged, serving as a status symbol for the Savoy family who controlled them.

  • The castle has been taken many times since, but never through sieges or bombardment. This

  • explains why Chillon has remained beautifully intact.

  • It's captured the imagination of artists, poets and philosophers. 19th century poets

  • Lord Byron and Percy Shelley took a boat trip out on the lake to visit the famed Chateau.

  • Inspired by the story of a monk who was imprisoned here for his beliefs, Byron wrote the famous

  • poem Prisoner of Chillon.

  • And in more recent times, Freddie Mercury --of the group, Queen, stopping for a visit

  • here after playing at the Montreux Festival, said of the place: "This must be heaven".

  • Now we'll travel East from Lake Geneva, to the most mountainous region in Switzerland.

  • Here, it seems quaint settlements are nestled in each valley.

  • Before modern transport these small agricultural villages would have been largely inaccessible

  • to each other.

  • As a result each habitation, only separated by a few kilometres, developed dialects so

  • vastly different that sometimes residents from neighbouring villages couldn't even understand

  • each other.

  • The mountains in this area are considered to be some of the best off-piste skiing locations

  • in the world.

  • The powdery snow plasters these peaks and valleys in the wintertime, drawing tourists

  • from around the world.

  • And perhaps the most popular ski resort in all of Switzerland is here in the town of

  • Verbier.

  • At the turn of the century this place consisted of a few huts; and its economy revolved entirely

  • around dairy farming and cattle rearing, like most other small villages in the region.

  • But then, in 1925 a group of mountaineers explored the area, discovering the fabulous

  • skiing potential here. Soon afterwards a small commercial operation was established.

  • The business was slow to take off: late in the 1950's the resort still only had three

  • employees. That was quick to change in the 1970's, when a worldwide ski boom propelled

  • this once quaint town into stardom. Now it is a major winter sports hub with its population

  • rising to nearly 40,000 during the season.

  • The minimal rainfall, plentiful running water, and ample sunshine make these mountain valleys

  • ideal for vineyards.

  • Wine-making has been a major part of Swiss agricultural life for hundreds of years, and

  • its success is largely attributed to the sophisticated irrigation techniques developed long ago and

  • continually refined to this day.

  • 'Bisses', or water channels that run in abundance down the mountainsides are designed to provide

  • the grape vines with just the right amount of moisture.

  • The waters from these valleys and mountain streams are all part of the vast Rhone River

  • Basin. All in all, Switzerland has 5% of the continent's fresh water supply, and so is

  • often referred to as "Europe's water tower".

  • A few valleys over we come to Sion, one of the country's oldest settlements.

  • There's evidence that Neolithic farmers were working the land here over 6,000 years ago.

  • It later became a busy trading post during the Roman Empire.

  • The town is flanked by twin fortifications standing on rocky outcrops which were carved

  • out by glaciers in the last ice age.

  • In the foreground is the Valere Basilica, the more well-maintained and well-known of

  • the two. This hilltop church was commissioned by the Bishop of Sion soon after the city

  • was established as Switzerland's first Catholic Diocese in the 4th century.

  • And due to the city's close relationship with Christian Roman power, the Bishops were able

  • to wrangle almost complete sovereignty for Sion.

  • Today, Valere Basilica is home to what is thought to be the oldest organ in the world

  • still in continuous use; built in 1435.

  • And on the opposite hill is Tourbillon Castle. Now little more than a ruin, this fortress

  • - with its thick walls, and numerous towers and battlements - was once a formidable deterrent

  • to invading forces.

  • Sion was attacked by the French in the 14th century, forcefully incorporated into the

  • Helvetic Republic in the 16th century, and ransacked by various powerful families in

  • the region over the years. It figures that Tourbillon saw its fair share of action.

  • Despite the city's tumultuous history of warfare the castle managed to remain intact until

  • 1788, when it was devastated by fire.

  • The stones were scavenged for a number of years to reinforce other buildings in the

  • town, until finally what was left of Tourbillon was officially protected by the local government.

  • Further west we find one of the most breath-taking backdrops to any sport.

  • Spread out at 1,800 metres above sea level, and perched over the picturesque Rhone Valley,

  • is the Crans-sur-Sierre Golf Course.

  • The sport was played here casually since 1905, as prior to WWI golf was almost solely the

  • prerogative of the British Gentry. As a result the venue wasn't established in a big way

  • until 1939 when it hosted its first European Masters Tournament.

  • About 20 years ago the course got its second boost, when Severiano Ballesteros, the famed

  • Spanish golf star, was commissioned to re-design the grounds. Now it's considered to be one

  • of the top courses in the world.

  • The Valais region covers some of the most beautiful and rugged terrain in Switzerland,

  • and has presented builders and engineers throughout the centuries with irresistible challenges.

  • ... Like these bridges that cross one of the countless sharp and deep ravines. The gorge

  • has been carved out by running water over thousands of years and is now roughly 800

  • metres deep.

  • The old stone bridge and the modern car crossing side by side is a wonderful example of how

  • the Swiss merge the past and present with seamless grace.

  • The Alps make up 65% of Switzerland, so the country's engineers had to become experts

  • in mountain travel if they wanted to get anywhere!

  • And tunnels are their forte. The first Swiss mountain tunnel was built in 1708; and now

  • they're woven beneath a large portion of the alps.

  • Traditionally Swiss villages were weeks of travel apart from each other, and inaccessible

  • most of the year; but now almost every isolated hamlet is no more than a day's travel by train.

  • Eastward, the mountains become ever-more imposing.

  • With over 47 peaks in Valais above 4,000 metres in height, we are now moving into the heart

  • of the Swiss Alps.

  • The area may look unpopulated, but hill top villages and tucked away hamlets dot the countryside.

  • Transit across the alps has played an important role ever since medieval times. But large-scale

  • alpine tourism only began around the mid 1800s, when British mountaineers travelled here to

  • ascend the peaks.

  • And perhaps the most popular Alpine crossing point is here, the Simplon Pass. At 2,005

  • metres, the road offers dizzying views over the valley below.

  • This spot has been used for centuries, with the first documented crossing by Kaspar Jodock

  • von Stockalper in the 1600s, who carted salt up from the Mediterranean on the backs of

  • mules.

  • But it wasn't until Napoleon's march across Switzerland in the 19th Century that the pass

  • was significantly developed into a highly accessible thoroughfare.

  • Napoleon's army used this crossing point to cart canons and artillery down towards Italy,

  • but these days it's open to everyone; and thanks to recent strengthening and avalanche-protection

  • procedures the pass is open all year around.

  • Now we descend into the Simplon Valley. Italy draws closer, and the climate becomes ever

  • more Mediterranean.

  • And as we edge ever closer to the Swiss and Italian border, German fades away into Italian,

  • which is the dominant language throughout this area.

  • The villages in the Valais region are sustained largely by livestock rearing, and the fruit

  • that's grown here which make up the ingredients for their famous regional cognacs

  • Moving over the Zwischbergen Pass, we begin our brief crossing of Italy.

  • Here, human habitation appears in the most unlikely of places. There are many larger

  • settlements, too, nestled in the valleys...

  • ...like Rasa, a car-free Hamlet that's home to an eclectic mix of the descendents of persecuted

  • protestants; and hippies who settled here in the 1960s.

  • Or, the town of Craveggia, whose name derives from the Italian meaning "Goat Pasture".

  • Its 756 residents live primarily in centuries-old farm houses with tall stone chimneys. Old,

  • hand chiselled stone and wrought iron railings comprise most of the abodes here, and a large

  • portion of the residents live in the same houses that have been in the family for countless

  • generations.

  • A devoutly Christian population that values an honest life, their coat of arms motto reads:

  • "fear not if thou do-est good".

  • And a few valleys down we come to the village of Re.

  • In the 15th century, the quiet settlement was declared the site of a miracle by the

  • Catholic church when a fresco of the virgin Mary started to bleed profusely after a rock

  • was thrown at it.

  • This massive complex, the 'Santuario della Madonna del Sangue', was built up around the

  • miraculous fresco, and has become a popular place of pilgrimage ever since.

  • And following the lush Italian valley of Vigezzo takes us back into Switzerland where we find

  • our last stop on this journey...

  • ...the glorious Lake Maggiore

  • Over 60km in length, it serves part of the border between Italy and Switzerland.

  • The Lake is less than 200 metres above sea level, making it one of the lowest points

  • in Switzerland and a popular summer retreat for Swiss wanting to escape the cold mountain

  • life.

  • The towns and gardens sit at the foot of the majestic Swiss alps, creating an atmosphere

  • that has lured artists and intellectuals for hundreds of years.

  • On the southern tip of lake Maggiore is the city of Locarno, an Italian speaking centre

  • with a population of 150,000.

  • It has been important since Roman times, and in the mid 1900's over 50 roman graves were

  • discovered beneath its streets.

  • This was the first evidence of Roman burials and cremations from the same era taking place

  • side by side.

  • Like many cities in Switzerland, Locarno was a stronghold of Catholic power, until it was

  • incorporated into the Swiss Confederation after the Napoleonic wars.

  • Close by we come to Ascona. At 196 metres above sea level it is the lowest-lying town

  • in all of Switzerland.

  • As well as being a popular destination with its own jazz festival, it has developed a

  • reputation for revolutionary thought.

  • At the turn of the 20th century, a group of idealists set up a thriving commune that rejected

  • established conventions in favour of closer links with nature.

  • Though the commune is now long-gone, the tradition for radical thinking continues in Ascona,

  • through seminars held by the Universities of Zurich and Lurcerne.

  • And finally, we venture into the heart of the lake, to the botanical gardens of the

  • Brissago Islands.

  • In stark contrast to the snow-capped peaks, the climate here is subtropical and the exotic

  • plants on the smaller of the two islands are left mostly to grow wild.

  • But its larger and more cultivated neighbour, San Pancazio, is the main attraction for tourists.

  • It was once a refuge for persecuted Christians.

  • But in the 1880s, the local baroness created exotic, subtropical gardens where artists,

  • musicians, and writers were invited to meet and work in an inspiring setting.

  • Stone sculptures, and even Roman-style baths were added to enhance its splendour.

  • In the 1950s, district locals bought the island, and opened it to the public.

  • Finding Mediterranean, Asian, Australian, and African plants growing in the middle of

  • a Swiss lake is a reminder of just how surprising and diverse this country can be.

  • It's a perfect place to end this journey.

Our journey begins to the north of Montreux at the medieval hilltop town Romont.

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