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- [Deke] All right, now we're going to take a look
at all three of the auto commands
that reside here in the Image menu,
Auto Tone, Auto Contrast, and then Auto Color.
All three of which look at the luminance data
on a channel-by-channel basis
and make changes automatically
without even bringing up a dialogue box.
Now even though they sometimes work,
I am by no means suggesting
that they are the best ways
to adjust luminance data inside Photoshop,
but they might be the most popular.
Based on Adobe's analytics data,
they're click data from people who buy into the program.
Auto Tone, Auto Contrast, and Auto Color
together rank among the top 10 most commonly
used features in the software
in which case I want you to know how they work.
So here we are looking at some old school $100 bills.
And if you've seen my course before,
then you've seen this sample file.
It just happens to be the best demonstration
I've come up with.
And so we've got this top left bill,
which is our control image.
That is to say the one that we're not going to change.
And then we've got one layer each
for Auto Tone, Auto Contrast, and Auto Color.
I'm going to zoom in on the Auto Tone layer
by Alt or Option clicking on its thumbnail.
And then I'll just zoom out ever so slightly
by pressing Ctrl + minus or Command + minus.
And then with that layer selected,
I'll go up to the Image menu
and choose the Auto Tone command.
Now what this command does is it finds the darkest pixel
on a channel-by-channel basis
and changes it to black
and then it finds the brightest channel
on a channel-by-channel and changes it to white.
So in other words, it makes different modifications
for each of the red, green, and blue channels.
And as a result, not only do we increase the contrast.
So this is before and this is after.
But we also get rid of that green color cast
that is by nature associated
with an old school $100 bill
and we create a kind of reddish color cast in the shadows.
So Auto Tone can be really useful
if you're trying to get rid of a color cast.
But if you like the coloring of an image,
it's going to very likely mess it up.
All right, let's compare that to Auto Contrast.
I'll go ahead and Alt or Option click on that layer
and scoot it down just a little bit here.
Make sure the layer is selected.
And then I'll go up to the Image menu
and choose Auto Contrast.
Now this command also looks at the darkest pixel
and the brightest pixel in the image,
but it does so on a composite basis.
So in other words, it doesn't go channel-by-channel.
So it just finds the darkest pixel makes it darker,
the brightest pixel and makes it brighter.
And as a result, we maintain the green color cast.
So notice, this is the low contrast version of the bill
and this is a high contrast version.
We do have more contrast,
so darker shadows and brighter highlights
but we have the exact same greenish color cast
as we did in the past.
All right, compare this to the most complicated
of the auto functions, which is Auto Color.
Go ahead and Alt or Option,
click on that guy in order to zoom in on it.
Make sure it's selected as well.
And then go up to the Image menu and choose Auto Color.
Now before I choose it, let me explain how it works.
It's going to take the darkest pixel
on a channel-by-channel basis
and make it black and neutralize it as well
so that it doesn't have a color cast.
It's going to do the same thing to the brightest pixel
channel-by-channel and neutralize it.
And then it's going to try to find an exact midtone
and make it neutral as well.
And when I say neutral
I mean leach the color out of it, so that it's gray.
And so notice, as soon as I choose the command,
I am seeing dark neutral shadows
as well as bright neutral highlights.
And so the only colors that are surviving
even in the midtones are these very saturated greens.
And so if I were to zoom out
by pressing Ctrl + zero or Command + zero on the Mac
so that we can take in all of the bills,
you can see that Auto Contrast
is the one that's going to maintain the colors
inside of the image.
Auto Tone is going to remove any color cast,
but very likely replace it with a different color cast
in the case of these red shadows.
And Auto Color is going to do its best
to neutralize the shadows, highlights,
and midtones inside your images.
All right, so in the case of this $100 bill,
Auto Contrast probably does the best job.
In the case of an actual photographic image, you never know.
Now the first step in correcting the color cast
or if you prefer color bias of a photograph
is to identify what that color cast or color bias is.
And so here we are looking at an underwater GoPro photo.
No lights whatsoever.
Your photos don't have to be underwater.
I just happen to have a lot of them.
And so we can safely assume that this guy is too green.
After all, I'm about 30 to 40 feet deep
and so I've lost a lot of the color spectrum.
You lose the reds first, then the oranges, then yellows
and after a while, you're left with greens and blues.
But we are seeing a little orange here and there.
And even if we're pretty confident this is a greenish cast,
there's no sense in not checking for sure.
And you can check exactly what the color cast is
using the Eyedropper tool
which you can get by pressing the I key.
And one I've done is I've created
a bunch of copies of this layer
for comparative purposes later on.
But I also up here at the top have this shape layer,
which is a circle, which is identifying the region
that I think ought to be neutral.
And when I see neutral, it should be a lightish gray.
Whereas if I were to click inside there
and notice when I click and hold, I am seeing a color ring
which is showing me the old foreground color on the bottom
and the new foreground color at the top.
We can plainly see that that is a kind of green.
All right, but to confirm for sure
what we need to do is make sure
the color panel is on screen.
And if it's not, you can go to the Window menu
and choose the Color command.
Of course, do not choose the command
if it has a check mark in front of it,
and then click on the flyout menu icon
in the top right corner
and switch to HSB Sliders
is generally the easiest way to work.
And that way we can see our hue, saturation,
and brightness values.
Now all the brightness value is doing is telling us
that this is a pretty bright color,
so it's somewhere in the mid tone to highlight range.
That's just fine.
It's not anything we need to worry about.
The hue value is telling us the base color in degrees
and I'll show you what that looks like in just a moment.
And then the saturation value goes from gray at 0%
all the way to the most highly saturated version
of that specific color at 100%.
Now if this were a neutral image,
if it didn't have a color cast,
then this saturation value
would be somewhere in the zero to 10% range.
Instead, it's extremely high at 37%.
That means we have a pronounced color cast.
All right, let's take a look at the hue value, however.
172 degrees is very close to cyan.
And so I'll go ahead and switch over
to this big color chart that I've created for you.
And by the way, it measures 32 by 22 inches
in case you decide you want to print it out.
And I've gone ahead and mapped out