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  • Welcome to Lima.

  • Hi, I'm Ricardo Martins. I'm a chef here in Lima, Peru.

  • I run a restaurant in Barranco called Siete.

  • We serve contemporary Peruvian food with local ingredients.

  • You should come by and try our short ribs

  • or scallops or even the cheese tart.

  • But I wasn't always a chef.

  • I first studied music,

  • and then anthropology.

  • Do you know that I even wrote my thesis in college

  • on how food gave us a national identity in Peru?

  • I really love Lima.

  • I love how we all understand this organized chaos.

  • I love the sound of the waves

  • crashing against the shore,

  • and I love the smell of sofrito at noon

  • where every single house in the city is starting to make lunch.

  • Let me introduce you to the flavors of my town.

  • Let me show you my Lima.

  • Now let's talk about influences.

  • Spanish, Native Peruvian, Chinese, Afro-Peruvian, Japanese,

  • this diverse blend of cultures have shaped Peruvian life.

  • Just take a look around.

  • You will see the Spanish influences in our main plazas and buildings.

  • This is the Plaza San Martin.

  • This is actually the center of Lima.

  • I love this place a lot.

  • You can feel the history in the architecture.

  • Right in the middle of this modern bustling city,

  • you'll be surprised to find La Huaca Pucllana,

  • an ancient archeological site built before the Incas.

  • Overlooking the site is a high-end restaurant

  • that features contemporary Peruvian cuisine.

  • Lima never ceases to surprise me.

  • I'm having a beautiful dinner next to an archeological site

  • that's been here already 1300 years.

  • You can even taste Indigenous influences in the street food.

  • Near Plaza San Martin, I bought corn on the cob with cheese -

  • what we call Choclo Con Queso with some chili with huacatay.

  • Wow, it was fantastic.

  • Barrio Chino,

  • as we know it, is in the historic center of Lima.

  • It's one of South America's largest Chinatowns.

  • The first Chinese immigrants moved to Lima 200 years ago.

  • Their spices, their techniques have shaped Peruvian cuisine in an important way.

  • Chifa is a Chinese and Peruvian cuisine.

  • There are some of the qualities that make it really Peruvian.

  • The chilis on the table, the yellow chili peppers.

  • You have the lemon with chicharon, for example,

  • that combination which is really, really Peruvian.

  • This is guinea pig -

  • deep fried guinea pig with sweet & sour, and salted sauce.

  • We eat guinea pig in the mountains and some parts of the coast.

  • I've never seen it in Chinese food,

  • and I think it's very good.

  • One country that's had an enormous influence on Peruvian food is Japan.

  • Ever since Japanese immigrants arrived in Peru over a hundred years ago,

  • they have created an unique kind of fusion called Nikkei.

  • Maido is among the best restaurants in the world.

  • Something really interesting about this because

  • you have cod from Peru,

  • tempura, Japanese,

  • and then you have potatoes with ramen.

  • This is outstanding, outstanding!

  • It's this diverse blend of cultures

  • that have helped shape the unique landscape of Peruvian life.

  • Walking around Lima, you see it and taste it.

  • Now, let's talk about Peruvian ingredients.

  • The best way to first understand Lima's culinary scene is

  • to know the geography.

  • Lima is a city that sits on the ocean behind the Andes and the Amazonian forests.

  • I'm going to show you how this market, Mercado de Surquillo,

  • you can find a vast variety of produce from the jungle to the mountains

  • to the coast.

  • If we talk about the mountains,

  • look at these native potatoes.

  • Beautiful. Look at the colors.

  • Here we have cocona.

  • This is from the jungle.

  • It's a very special, very acidic fruit.

  • Mariela knows me since I was a little kid.

  • What's nice over here is she works with seafood.

  • Peru's ocean is so rich and diverse.

  • This is a bull crab.

  • It is super flavorful.

  • You can make a bisque.

  • Here we have the heads and the body of the giant squid.

  • It's called pota.

  • It's going to have mussels, razor clams,

  • normal clams, baby clams, shrimps.

  • This is why it's so special here.

  • You have small shops where you get a few things and you get the best.

  • Finally, the flavors.

  • Sabor!

  • My favorite restaurant in Lima is Rafael -

  • what we call Peruvian contemporary cuisine.

  • It has been around for over 20 years,

  • and it's always evolving, evolving, evolving.

  • Wow.

  • For me, this restaurant means the fun of cooking.

  • It speaks to Peruvian flavor that it puts them

  • in a context of a refined and worldwide perspective.

  • You know, they play along with Italian cuisine,

  • Indian cuisine,

  • Mediterranean,

  • and that's beautiful too, you know?

  • For hundreds of years, we have enjoyed a mixture of Spanish

  • and Indigenous dishes that we all call Comida Criolla.

  • A great place to try Comida Criolla is Isolina.

  • This is food that we get on our table at home -

  • traditional criollo food.

  • This was my grandpa's favorite dish,

  • Papa Rellena.

  • This is a potato stuffed with a meat stew.

  • We have a Lomo Saltado, which is a stir fried sirloin steak.

  • The great thing of this dish is the strength of the smoke, the smokiness of the stir fry.

  • When you think of Peruvian food, the most iconic dish will always be ceviche.

  • Don Fernando sums up what I love about ceviche -

  • freshness and tradition.

  • We're here with two brothers, the two Fernandos.

  • For me, probably among the best ceviches in the world.

  • Ceviche is raw marinated seafood with lime and spices.

  • This is magic.

  • This is a chili from the north, a jimochero.

  • It's like, Wow!

  • Wow, this is great!

  • The fish is so fresh that it melts in your mouth.

  • It's spicy.

  • It has a kick. It surprises you.

  • If you come to the market, you have to try this.

  • You know, you have ceviche? The juice of that dish is called Tiger's Milk, leche de tigre.

  • It's like a mini version of ceviche but with deep fried squid.

  • Spicy, fresh, beautiful.

  • It's hard to say exactly what makes Peruvian food so special.

  • Is it our geography,

  • our history,

  • our love for cooking?

  • Wherever I went and whoever I asked, people had something to say.

  • We have a lot of cultures, flavors.

  • Everything is around food.

  • We have like the most incredible diversity

  • from the coast to the jungle

  • in these specific ecospheres we find around Peru.

  • And that's something that we are really, really thankful for.

  • Now that I give you a taste of my Lima

  • I hope to see you soon. Ciao!

  • Thanks for watching Lonely Planet.

  • For more videos of this from around the world

  • like and subscribe.

Welcome to Lima.

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