Placeholder Image

Subtitles section Play video

  • This is Beth harmon, you know her from the Queen's Gambit.

  • You may remember this outfit or this one and of course this one, but are they accurate?

  • We got this fashion historian.

  • Hi, I'm rice Britannia and I'm a fashion historian to walk us through what the Queen's gambit got right and what they got mostly right about these looks.

  • The Queen's Gambit is a netflix limited series that chronicles the story of fictional american chess prodigy Elizabeth harmon, also known as Beth as she rises to prominence in the international world of chess.

  • She struggles with alcoholism and addiction and these ups and downs of her journey are visually represented through costume Berlin based costume designer Gabrielle binder illustrates the evolution of the character from troubled orphan too glamorous chess phenom all while creating a distinctive look for the show through the consistent use of color and pattern to achieve this.

  • The costume department made most of deaths costumes for the series and use just a few authentic vintage pieces.

  • The Queen's Gambit spans the 19 fifties and sixties and not only charts the chronological evolution of style, but also the nuances of fashionable dress across different cities.

  • The limited series is based on a 1983 novel of the same name by walter Tevis, in which the protagonist is described as not particularly attractive.

  • However, the creators of the television adaptation decided to glam up deaths character, partially due to the insistence of actress Anya Taylor Joy.

  • Let's get into the looks first up, best plaid pinafore.

  • This look appears in episodes two and 3, which take place in Lexington and Cincinnati in 1963.

  • At this point in the series, Beth is just starting high school as an adolescent who spent much of her childhood at an orphanage.

  • She didn't have a lot of role models growing up.

  • As a result, she looks to imitate the women in her life by adapting their styles of clothing.

  • Beth purchases this dress at Ben Snyder's, which was a real life department store that operated in Lexington Kentucky for several decades during the mid 20th century.

  • Beth sees the dress on a mannequin at the department store on her first trip with her adoptive mother and it becomes the embodiment of aspiration.

  • She later buys it using the cash prize from her first tournament victory, Which is significant because this is the first time she's able to choose what she wears.

  • This look captures the quintessential mid-century schoolgirl style, although it looks to be more influenced by the 1950s than the 1960s.

  • This can be attributed to the differential pace of fashion based on locale.

  • A small town department store would not likely be stocked with the latest most fashion forward offerings.

  • Let's draw this look layer by layer.

  • First up the undergarments for undergarments, she would be wearing a simple white bra and a pair of cotton panties, Beth does not wear stockings or pantyhose which is appropriate for her at this point of the series because she is being depicted as an adolescent schoolgirl and then the slip as a modesty layer beth maybe wearing a full slip, which would be about knee length.

  • We see her wearing a simple white one when she's deciding what to wear for her classmates get together.

  • That brings us to the shirt.

  • The crisp white button up shirt is a longstanding staple in schoolgirl style.

  • Beth has three quarter length sleeves with turned up cuffs, an open collar and decorative buttons at the center and then her dress.

  • Pena for style dresses usually feature a jumper like bodice with open sides that requires a shirt to be worn underneath the pinafore is a garment that has been traditionally associated with school uniforms, especially those made out of plaid textiles.

  • Another significant aspect of the plaid pattern is it's illusion to the grid like pattern of a chess board.

  • Throughout the series, the costume designer has selected black and white garments with checked or linear geometric prints that visually connect deaths character to the game of chess itself.

  • Black and white geometric prints were especially fashionable in the 1960s when op art began to influence textile design and fashion photography.

  • Next up, her shoes and socks, we are made aware of deaths insecurity about her shoes in the second episode, when she finds herself surrounded by classmates wearing black and white saddle shoes.

  • This style was very popular for teenage schoolgirls and Death's desire for them is another instance of her aspiration that takes the form of clothing at the end of episode two.

  • It can be interpreted that Beth purchased the coveted shoes with her prize money.

  • However, it is later revealed that the purchase was actually a chess set.

  • When we see Beth and her mother arrived at the hotel at the beginning of episode three, we see that she did purchase the shoes for herself.

  • After all, she wears the saddle shoes with white bobby socks which are folded over just above the ankle.

  • Finally, her hair and makeup at this point, she is fresh faced and pretty much make up free, which helps to establish this as the beginning of her beauty journey.

  • Beth sports a short page boy hairstyle with micro bangs.

  • It is not a fashionable hairstyle and it is meant to make her look young and not particularly in touch with the latest beauty trends.

  • If she were, she may have opted for a more voluminous hairstyle with softer bangs, She may have also accessorized with a headband or a Brett overall.

  • This is an accurate character driven costume, so here's what Beth would have looked like.

  • Let's move on to Bethe next look!

  • This look appears in episodes one and six, which take place in paris in 1967 when Beth arrives in the fashion capital, she finally has access to the most up to date styles.

  • This dress was likely purchased on Beth shopping trip before her match with borgoff boutique she walks out of is a fictional one and maison bone, which is written on the side of the large shopping bag, is actually an eyeglass store.

  • This is the first look we see at the very beginning of the series.

  • Before we do the flashback, two breaths childhood.

  • When we see it again in episode six, we understand the reason for the seemingly haphazard nature of this look.

  • Her much anticipated face off with Russian grandmaster, borgoff is derailed by a wild night of drinking, which causes her to lose the match.

  • Costume designer Gabrielle binder cites the work of Pierre Cardin as the inspiration for this look.

  • However, there are specific design features that make this costume particularly fitting for this pivotal scene.

  • Now, we're going to draw every layer of this look.

  • First up the undergarments for this look, she would be wearing the same white bra and cotton panties.

  • This important match would have been an occasion where it would be appropriate for her to wear tights or pantyhose.

  • However, we know that she got dressed in a hurry and perhaps didn't have the wherewithal to put them on.

  • If she were wearing pantyhose, they could be dark and textured in the style made popular by Pierre Cardamom and then the next layer, a loose fitting, full slip would be a smoothing layer and maintained the boxy silhouette of the dress.

  • It is also plausible that Beth could be wearing a half slip as she does at other points in the series.

  • Next up the dress, This design was inspired by the work of Parisian designer Pierre Cardin who created modernist garments with a space age aesthetic.

  • His color blocked mini dresses were usually constructed from heavier wool or synthetic double nets which allowed the trapeze or a line silhouette to stand away from the body.

  • Gabrielle binder intentionally had this costume constructed out of a fabric that was too light and wait to support the garment's silhouette.

  • She chose a crepe viscose that flowed with deaths body and accentuated her movements as she frantically rushed through the hotel.

  • In the last two episodes of the season, several of deaths costumes looked to be direct references to garments by prominent designers at the time.

  • These include this dress which also looks to be inspired by the work of Pierre Cardin and this one which is very similar to one by john Bates adapted from a costume he designed for Diana rigg on the popular television show.

  • The Avengers one especially significant aspect about this dress is its color, which is a pale shade of green that is repeated at different moments throughout the series when she arrives at the orphanage in the first episode, she's wearing a pale green dress embroidered by her mother.

  • She wears this color again in the final episode for her rematch with Barkov in this case, the light color helps her stand out against the dark tones of the room in which the Russian tournament is taking place, but the same color helps her blend into the interiors of the orphanage in episode one.

  • Here we see a bit of color theory at play.

  • The distinctive shade of what became known as hospital green first appeared around 1914 and by the mid 20th century this color was ubiquitous at hospitals and asylums.

  • This green was thought to influence patient moods and inspire serenity of mind.

  • The two tone design of this particular dress also mirrors the two tone green of the tranquilizer pills to which Beth becomes addicted.

  • One last thing to note about this dress is the bow at the chest deaths costumes always convey her innate femininity, but the show's creators took care that it was never used to her advantage in game play and then the shoes, she runs through the hotel barefoot and we see her slip on a pair of shoes just before she enters the room where the tournament is taking place.

  • Beth wears low heeled black pumps that coordinate with the black accents on her dress.

  • They appear to be slingbacks, but she could also be wearing a youthful t strap variation that brings us to best hair.

  • The show's hair and makeup designer Daniel Parker sites Natalie Wood as the source of inspiration for bethstl look with the softly swooped bangs and the curled ends.

  • This is a style that would be typically achieved with an overnight roller set, which Beth obviously did not do on this occasion.

  • At one point in the series, we see her styling her hair by blow drying it and this would not likely produce the same results as we see on screen.

  • Lastly, her makeup, Bethstl makeup evolves as her character matures throughout the series.

  • Here, it mainly consists of winged eyeliner and pink lipstick.

  • This is a more subdued version of 1960s mod makeup trends, especially in comparison to her mariska Veres inspired floating eyeliner look from the depth of her destructive spiral when she returns from paris aside from the fabric.

  • This look is pretty accurate, although she does look remarkably put together given the circumstances.

  • So this is what Beth would have looked like.

  • Next up, let's take a look at her white queen ensemble.

  • This look appears in episode seven, which takes place in Moscow in 1968.

  • This is the final look of the series, which is meant to resemble the white queen chess piece.

  • It marks a symbolic end to her journey to conquer the chess world as well as her personal demons.

  • This look is inspired by the work of Andrei Courage, who was a significant designer in the space age fashion movement, which saw the rise of futuristic styles that coincided with the Apollo Space program all leading up to the Moon landing in 1969.

  • Courage was especially known for his sleek all white tailored ensembles.

  • The costume designer has cited french singer songwriter francoise hardy, a frequent client of Courage as the point of inspiration for Beth let's break this look down layer by layer.

  • First up undergarments.

  • Once again, Beth undergarments would consist of a bra and a pair of panties.

  • By the late 19 sixties underwear had evolved into a style more akin to a hip hugger, which did not extend all the way up to the natural waist.

  • By 1968 colorful and printed textiles became more common in lingerie.

  • Let's move on to the next layer.

  • Beth wears a long sleeved black turtleneck sweater.

  • She wears similar sweaters throughout the series with slight variations in sleeve length and color.

  • This garment hints at the arrows, edgier art scene as well as the rising counterculture.

  • The black turtleneck became associated with the beatnik subculture in the previous decade and it became especially fashionable following the release of the 1957 film, Funny face starring Audrey Hepburn.

  • And then the pants Beth wears a pair of straight leg white trousers with a crisp crease pressed down the center of each leg.

  • These are just one aspect of the look that references the work of Andrei Courage, who is known in the fashion world for his futuristic white pantsuits.

  • The decision to put Beth in pants at this moment could be symbolic of her triumph as a young woman in what was a male dominated sport.

  • Next step, the shoes, This style of leather ankle boot was particularly fashionable in the mid to late 1960s flat white ankle boots with a square toe were the quintessential accessory to any carriage ensemble and then the code Beth snee length white coat is made from a thick cashmere wool and features a stand collar.

  • We see that it has a snap closure with three large decorative buttons at the center front.

  • A tie belt cinches the waist at the center back but allows the front to flow away from the body in accordance with a fashionable silhouette of the era.

  • This is just one of several coats worn by Beth throughout the series, that looked to be directly inspired by koresh coats dating to exactly 1967 and 1968.

  • The little black dress she wears for one of her matches in Russia is actually a vintage carriage piece, so it is reasonable to assume that she visited his salon while shopping in paris the previous year.

  • Next her hair and makeup.

  • When Beth arrives in Moscow, her driver comments that she looks like ann Margaret, the court in London throughout the tournament in Russia, she wears a hairstyle that is similar to that of the movie star with the side part, soft waves and curled ends for this final scene, the hair and makeup designer helped bring focus to Beth space against the all white ensemble by concentrating all of the color on her red hair and her rich red lipstick.

  • Finally, her accessories Beth says white hat completes her transformation into the white queen chess piece.

  • It is a sculptural domed variation on a beret with a large pompon and made from a felted wool similar to that of her coat.

  • Berets made a huge comeback with a 1967 film Bonnie and Clyde, in which Faye Dunaway played Bonnie parker and became an instant style icon.

  • Beth variation incorporates maude and space age elements with a touch of fantasy to help transform her into the silhouette of a chess piece.

  • Beth wears short white leather gloves, another signature carriage accessory, but she removes them at the final moment when she sits down to play the last game of chess in the series.

  • So this is what Beth would have looked like a near perfect match.

  • Any final thoughts, as we can see, the costumes of the show are richly embedded with meaning, as well as visual connections to the game of chess as with any coming of age story costumes, play an integral role in illustrating character development in the Queen's Gambit.

This is Beth harmon, you know her from the Queen's Gambit.

Subtitles and vocabulary

Operation of videos Adjust the video here to display the subtitles

B2 beth chess dress costume designer fashionable

「クイーンズ・ギャンビット」ベスの衣装は歴史的に正しい? | VOGUE JAPAN

  • 15 2
    林宜悉 posted on 2021/11/15
Video vocabulary