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  • Every year the extreme north of Norway hosts an epic 1,200-

  • kilometer race in which competitors fight their way through icy

  • wastelandsand are celebrated as heroes.

  • The Finnmark Race is kind of like my birthday, Christmas and new

  • year's eve all wrapped in one.

  • For eight days, the competitors ormushersand their canine teams

  • will be pushed to the absolute limit.

  • It's something you chose to do! And it's

  • fun. It's like a journey into yourself!

  • Who will prevail in this grueling endurance challengelasting over

  • a week, with sleep a rare luxury?

  • The dogs are starting to get tired, I am

  • getting a little bit tired, so this is

  • when the hard work starts.

  • Alta, in the Finnmark region of Norway, September 2019. Here,

  • inside the Arctic Circle, Hanna Lyrek is preparing for the longest

  • dog-sled race in Europe.

  • Hanna and a fellow-musher discuss how many dogs they have with

  • themand which ones they'll have to leave behind.

  • Let's see. Who's coming?

  • I have been driving dogs since I could stand up straight and I have

  • been around dogs for all my life. So when I was younger, dogs were my

  • best friends. So I have always liked seeing the world through a dog's eyes.

  • Her parents' farm thrives on tourismespecially from the growing

  • popularity of dog-sled tours. The family have more than 80 dogs, all

  • of them hybrids. They've been trained in social skills and are

  • highly durable, with a strong cardio-vascular

  • systemand they love to run.

  • We always start going short and slow, and as they get into shape we

  • can always increase the distance and the speed. But these are long-

  • distance dogs, so they hardly run faster than 17 kilometers an hour.

  • Langfjördbotn, 70 kilometers west of Alta. Ben Voigt lives here with his

  • family and 35 Alaskan huskies.

  • Originally from Germany, he met his wife while studying geography

  • in Alta. In 2010 the couple bought this old farm.

  • Yes, Savea. Good girl.

  • What else do we need, Ronja? We have the meat and ...

  • Water! Should we go and fetch that too?

  • This is their breakfastbasically a mixture of meat and dry fodder.

  • Taking care of the dogs is a full-time job for Ben. His wife is a

  • teacher at the village school.

  • You could say we're living our dream. We have a great place to

  • live, and have so much freedom. We have two happy children, and

  • our own dogs. It's just ? beyond words.

  • Ben started dogsled-racing more than ten years ago, and has also

  • won a number of awards for the way he handles his animals.

  • They're bred for this purpose and want to run. It's genetic. You can

  • use the dogs, but should never abuse them. You have to know

  • them inside-out from training and living with them. So, you know what

  • their limits areand that you should never push them beyond that.

  • For a musher who is not even Norwegian let alone local, those

  • distinctions are a very special honor.

  • This is Rubybasically the queen, our most important lead dog.

  • They're a pretty big pack, and sometimes they have their disputes

  • like in a schoolroom. And as their leader you have to master the art of

  • creating a positive vibe, so that they work together as a team.

  • Ben and Hanna still have another five months to prepare for the

  • Finnmark Race.

  • For Hanna, too, it is the ultimate challenge.

  • Of course you can meet bad weather, and you can get an injured

  • dog and you get tired and exhausted. So it's all these things

  • together for a weekand a lot of people, they don't even last a day.

  • Until the snowpack is firm enough for the sleds, the dogs train with a

  • quad on solid ground. Hanna has to repeatedly put on the brakes to

  • stop her team going too fast. Over the entire season from August

  • through late May, they cover almost 10 thousand kilometers.

  • In the evening her friends, family and staff gather for dinner.

  • The top subject of discussion is, as ever, how preparations for the race

  • are going.

  • Today they're joined by a high-profile guest and neighbor: musher

  • legend Roger Dahl, who won the event three times.

  • The training going OK?

  • Yes, I hope so ? I don't think we did enough training.

  • In terms of kilometers?

  • Yes. Last year we had 650, and now we only have around 300, and

  • it's already the 19th.

  • Then it's not enough.

  • Hanna's performances have also attracted sponsors. This season

  • she's getting funding from a dog-food manufacturer, together with

  • other successful mushersmaking Hanna the youngest member of the

  • world's first professional dogsled squad. Although other than sharing

  • a sponsor, the mushers are not really a teameach competing

  • very much for their themselves.

  • Part of the team is the biggest mushers in the world and for me it

  • is an opportunity to learn from the best. So now I am part of that and I

  • also have a few other sponsors, and for me — I don't have a full-time

  • job and I am not fully educated. I have to have sponsors. If not, I

  • wouldn't be able to do what I love to do every single day.

  • Ben has to make do without financial backers. Being a non-

  • native makes him less attractive for Norwegian companies. And only

  • the very best mushers manage to secure lucrative sponsorship deals.

  • Mushing is becoming increasingly sportified up here. It's hugely

  • popular now, with a growing number of people going

  • professional. We're now starting to see big-money sponsors, and

  • sponsored teams. As a family-based kennel, it's hard for us to

  • keep up with them.

  • Mushing means investing a lot of timeand money. The dogs need

  • to be put through their paces for the entire season from August through

  • the end of May. The financial outlay for their food and equipment poses

  • an additional challenge for the family.

  • We worked out that the animals cost us 30 to 40 thousand euros a

  • year. But we'd love to keep them, and also do the race. So, we're

  • taking the plunge by asking if guests might want to go on a tour

  • with us.

  • Ben is able to recover some of the expenses by offering dogsled tours

  • which also provide further training for the animals. Although that

  • venture is compromised by having to tailor the tours to the wishes of

  • his guests.

  • Six months on, March 2020 in Alta. And the Finnmarksløpet is about to

  • beginthe toughest dogsled race in Europe, with one-thousand-two-

  • hundred icy kilometers awaiting the competitors.

  • But Ben has doubts as to whether his team is in top shape.

  • They haven't done those long distances so far this year, but have

  • had to work really hard. Ruby's on board and is fit. I hope

  • she puts in another good showing this year. Yokmok is the clown in

  • the teamhe's been great in the prep races.

  • The dogs get a pre-race check-up from veterinarians. Otherwise,

  • they're not allowed to compete.

  • Ben is worried about the swelling on this one's leg.

  • The doctor says that if he has sound alternatives, she'd suggest

  • taking a different dog.

  • Fortunately, all the other dogs are OKgiving the green light for

  • Ben's team.

  • Can I take a photo of you next to each other?

  • Hanna is accompanied by her mother from one checkpoint to the

  • next. Trine competed in the race herself a number of times.

  • She has done so much work with the dogs. To be able to be top 5,

  • top 7 in a race like this is very, very hard. Because so many are good,

  • they know what they are doing. You have to have some luck, but you

  • have to be good yourself.

  • It's party time in Alta. Norway's main public TV station has daily

  • updates of the race.

  • Producer Hans Hartvigsen has

  • been covering the event for more than a decade.

  • It's getting bigger every year. It's a multi-faceted sport - and is

  • enthralling to watch!

  • The starting positions are drawn by lotswith Ben in 14th.

  • The field comprises 30 teams from Scandinaviaplus a couple of

  • contestants from Germany and Switzerland.

  • They're desperate to get going. I just hope we get off to a good start

  • and then we're on our own.

  • On a journey that will take eight days and nights, Ben sets out on

  • the initial stage. The first check-point is 12 hours away.

  • Among the last starters is local girl Hannawith Norwegian TV live at

  • the scene.

  • You already won the 500 kilometer race. And the 12-hundred?

  • Oh, they're two different worlds! We just want a decent finish!

  • What's the best part of the race?

  • Being out there, alone with my dogs.

  • Enjoy, and good luck, Hanna!

  • All that matters now is the finish - with no more interruptions. The

  • rules are simple. Once out in the wild, they're not allowed to have

  • any assistance. Over the next 8 days the mushers are granted one

  • extended break of 14 hourswith short breathers always allowed.

  • Stage one is 132 kilometersand the longest.

  • There's little let-up for the mushers, as they literally dig deep and have

  • to push their sled through the snowespecially uphill.

  • The checkpoints are manned by more than 600 volunteers taking

  • care of the dogs.

  • Almost 12 hours in, Hanna arrives at the Levajok checkpoint. And now

  • every second counts. She's solely responsible for feeding the dogs.

  • The pack are permitted to take on nourishment

  • but outside the checkpoint.

  • The faster Hanna manages to feed the dogs and get them wrapped up

  • for the night, the earlier she'll be able to get some shut-eye herself

  • for an hour or two. It's a routine Hanna has practiced dozens of times.

  • We rested two hours on the trail. It is a lot of snow, but it's fine.

  • It's not a problem.

  • Almost two hours later Ben also reaches the first checkpointwith

  • some bad news. Yokmuk, one of his best dogs, sprained his

  • shoulder after stepping into a hole. If more than 8 of the 14-strong dog-

  • team fail to finish the race, it's game over. And the early loss of

  • Yokmuk is a bitter setback for Ben.

  • Unfortunately, you have all the other teams braking, which creates

  • divots. And then you have a dilemma. You want to help the dogs

  • with lots of breaks, but then get the poorer trail. It happens. Whatever.

  • 10 minutes later, Ben sets out again from the checkpoint. He

  • prefers to catch a couple of hours' nap in his sleeping bag out on the

  • trail, away from the hustle and bustle of the helpers' camp.

  • Hanna takes the more luxurious optionand is able to get 2 hours'

  • sleep in thanks to her family's camper van being parked at each

  • checkpoint.

  • Hello, good morning.

  • But she has no time to chat. Nothing can stand in the way of

  • her, hopefully, finishing first ? as her boyfriend Matthias knows only

  • too well.

  • She is so focused. She goes in like a bubble, where you just think. You

  • are going through the race schedule and you're going through

  • the checkpoint routines.

  • Just thinking about what you're going to do.

  • Ben and Hanna now have two long stages ahead of them, totaling 223

  • kilometers. The route takes them along a river by the Finnish border.

  • Daytime temperatures are already below zero Celsius, as the dogs

  • plough their way through the soft snow.

  • It's now been 48 hours since the start in Alta. At 3:30 in the

  • afternoon Ben reaches the checkpoint in Levajok.

  • Over the past 48 hours his dogs have each burned up 24 thousand

  • calories. Now they have to eat as much as possible before they get

  • tired. Ben barely has time to sleep.

  • A little over three hours on the sled, you come close to falling off. But

  • it's OK. You're constantly focused on the dogs. It's something you

  • chose to do! And it's fun. It's like a journey into yourself!

  • And Ben is not the only one showing signs of wear from the

  • past 48 hours. Ruby, his lead dog, has picked up an injury.

  • This is how you can cool the area. Can you try to massage it?

  • Upwards, towards the heart?

  • With Algyval?

  • Sure. But when you remove the ice, don't spend too much time

  • massaging. You need to get some rest and sleep. And the dogs too.

  • The Finnmark Race is a monumental test for musher and

  • beast alike.

  • This is the most important dogthe brain of the team. It will be

  • interesting to see if it works.

  • While Ben gets a much-needed if brief bit of rest, Hanna gets ready to

  • get back on the trail. But surely racing at night is even

  • more demanding for the musher and her team?

  • The difference between driving at night and driving by day isn't that

  • big. It is a bit easier to stay awake when it's light. When I am on the

  • sled, I fall in sleep pretty often, not long at a time,

  • for a second or two.

  • Then you try to stay awake, but it is hard to stay awake all the time.

  • Sometimes the dogs enjoy running through the night a bit better. It's a

  • bit colder and they're more awake. So, they enjoy it.

  • Shortly afterwards the snowfall starts to get heavier as a storm

  • approaches. Ben is worried about his lead dog, Ruby.

  • I haven't slept a wink. I laid down in my bed, but kept on seeing these

  • wild images. All I could think about was her. And now we have this

  • weather coming up there, so it's going to be a pretty tough stage

  • over the mountain.

  • The old lady is a bit stubborn.

  • Yeah, I think that's it.

  • And the hardest stages are yet to come. Tonight they'll be heading up

  • into the mountains, where the icy winds know no mercy. Then there's

  • the deep snow slowing down the sleds. Two teams have already had

  • to give up.

  • But the dogs certainly need no pushing. The mushers wouldn't

  • need to use whips and reinseven if they were allowed. The animals

  • tend to dictate the paceas Hanna can testify.

  • But now it's time for her 14-hour break.

  • The dogs are starting to get a little bit tired,

  • I am getting a little bit tired.

  • So, this is the time when the hard work starts.

  • And then they embark on a 20-hour trek northeast, during which Hanna

  • is able to overtake some rivals. She's already moved up from 20th

  • on the starting grid to eighthless than two hours behind the race

  • leader. Ben is struggling some way behind, a further five hours down.

  • Four days into the race, Hanna speeds into Kirkenes, close to the

  • Russian border. She's already covered 600

  • kilometersbut this is only around the half-way point.

  • As always there's no time to dawdlewhile also having to keep an eye

  • on all the dogs.

  • Good morning! How are the dogs doing?

  • The one is bleeding in his mouth.

  • Ok, from about three checkpoints ago wasn't it?

  • Yeah, but he's not eating that well. He eats, but not well.

  • Okay! Which one is that? -It's the black one, Edin!

  • There, with blue eyes. -Ok!

  • The veterinarians receive only token payment for their assistance.

  • But for Roger Troutman, making the trip from the US is worth it.

  • She is very aware of the intensity and length of the race. It is a

  • marathon not a one- or two-day issue. She is very much on top of it,

  • and I think her team looks incredibly good.

  • Burger or Caesar salad? -Both!

  • She needs meat and fat.

  • Up until now, I've given my dogs a lot of rest. And I see that my team

  • is moving faster down the trail than the teams in front of me. We have

  • more dogs in my team than the people in front of me, and it's still a

  • long way to the finish line.

  • No wonder you're quickeryou're a lot lighter! Your team is faster

  • uphill than Kristian's. Was it very windy?

  • Yes. -A lot of headwind?

  • From the side. I couldn't keep the sled steady.

  • It's not easy. But you only took four hours and 58 minutes.

  • Her boyfriend Matthias also wants to hear her updates.

  • After the last mountain, I even had to slow them down.

  • I had to put on the brakes.

  • Yes. They don't look too bad. It's going really well.

  • ? Not so the case with Ben. He's way off the pace and now

  • stuck with his dogs at the Neiden checkpoint.

  • He has now covered almost two thirds of the race distance. But of

  • his 14 dogs, only six are fit to continuethe absolute minimum.

  • With a heavy heart he makes a heart-breaking decision:

  • We wanted to set out first thing this morning, but it turned out that three

  • of the dogs had swollen legs. Basically, we reached the limit for

  • the number of dogs required. We didn't achieve the goal that

  • we'd been working for all year. But with animals involved, you never

  • know, and just have to accept things and try better next time.

  • Once you're hooked, you have to carry on. You hope to be better

  • prepared in future, and maybe get a bit of good luck too.

  • Shall we head home, Beetle? It's that way ?

  • Ben was one of ten competitors who had to drop out.

  • Ahead of Hanna and her team is one of the longest and most

  • challenging but also most prestigious stages of the Finnmark

  • Race. From here they only have 250 kilometers to the finish.

  • Hanna has overtaken another two teams, and is now in sixth place.

  • It's close to half a meter of snow that we have to go through, and my

  • dogs have been running in that deep snow for around 9 or 10

  • hours. I have been working and running and kicking, and we are

  • coming down from the mountains. I called my mom and I said that I am

  • coming in maybe half an hour to the checkpoint, so they can get ready.

  • And she said that she has really bad news. My first thought was that

  • maybe a dog has died or something like that.

  • On March 12th everything changed in Norway, even here in the isolated

  • north of the country. Due to the spread of the

  • Coronavirus, the Finnmark Race has had to be called off

  • immediately. A shock for all involved.

  • You know, we have the virus going on, the coronavirus. The prime

  • minister said that everything has to quit.

  • It's dreadful news for Trine Lyrek, too. Her daughter has gotten just a

  • few hours' sleep over the last few days. Trine is worried that a

  • weakened Hanna will be devastated by the development.

  • I just cried all the way to the checkpoint. Once we got to the

  • checkpoint, everybody was there and it was this weird atmosphere.

  • It's an abrupt and cruel end to Hanna's dream of a place on the

  • winner's podium.

  • I feel really bad for Hanna. She was looking forward to this race. Of

  • course she has been using a whole year of training for this race. It is

  • sad, we used a lot of time.

  • I know we would have a good finish. And I wanted to prove myself

  • that I could do well in a long race like this. I wanted to prove to

  • everyone else too, that I can do well in a race like this. Even though

  • I know that I did a good race, I don't feel like I proved it. Because you

  • never really finished.

  • Two days later, Hanna is back home in Alta.

  • I don't really think it has sunk in. I

  • think my body is still in shock a little

  • bit. Because we've been preparing and thinking about this race for two

  • years. Then we were finally doing it and it was going very well, and then

  • it is just taken away from you. And that is very hard for me, my body

  • and my brain to process.

  • Hanna reckons the race could have continued

  • due to the remoteness of the route.

  • But by late summer her trusty dogs were hooked back up and raring to

  • go again. And hopefully in 2021 Hanna and her team will get

  • another chance to go for glory.

Every year the extreme north of Norway hosts an epic 1,200-

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