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Every year the extreme north of Norway hosts an epic 1,200-
kilometer race in which competitors fight their way through icy
wastelands — and are celebrated as heroes.
The Finnmark Race is kind of like my birthday, Christmas and new
year's eve all wrapped in one.
For eight days, the competitors or “mushers” and their canine teams
will be pushed to the absolute limit.
It's something you chose to do! And it's
fun. It's like a journey into yourself!
Who will prevail in this grueling endurance challenge — lasting over
a week, with sleep a rare luxury?
The dogs are starting to get tired, I am
getting a little bit tired, so this is
when the hard work starts.
Alta, in the Finnmark region of Norway, September 2019. Here,
inside the Arctic Circle, Hanna Lyrek is preparing for the longest
dog-sled race in Europe.
Hanna and a fellow-musher discuss how many dogs they have with
them — and which ones they'll have to leave behind.
Let's see. Who's coming?
I have been driving dogs since I could stand up straight and I have
been around dogs for all my life. So when I was younger, dogs were my
best friends. So I have always liked seeing the world through a dog's eyes.
Her parents' farm thrives on tourism — especially from the growing
popularity of dog-sled tours. The family have more than 80 dogs, all
of them hybrids. They've been trained in social skills and are
highly durable, with a strong cardio-vascular
system — and they love to run.
We always start going short and slow, and as they get into shape we
can always increase the distance and the speed. But these are long-
distance dogs, so they hardly run faster than 17 kilometers an hour.
Langfjördbotn, 70 kilometers west of Alta. Ben Voigt lives here with his
family and 35 Alaskan huskies.
Originally from Germany, he met his wife while studying geography
in Alta. In 2010 the couple bought this old farm.
Yes, Savea. Good girl.
What else do we need, Ronja? We have the meat and ...
Water! Should we go and fetch that too?
This is their breakfast — basically a mixture of meat and dry fodder.
Taking care of the dogs is a full-time job for Ben. His wife is a
teacher at the village school.
You could say we're living our dream. We have a great place to
live, and have so much freedom. We have two happy children, and
our own dogs. It's just ? beyond words.
Ben started dogsled-racing more than ten years ago, and has also
won a number of awards for the way he handles his animals.
They're bred for this purpose and want to run. It's genetic. You can
use the dogs, but should never abuse them. You have to know
them inside-out from training and living with them. So, you know what
their limits are — and that you should never push them beyond that.
For a musher who is not even Norwegian let alone local, those
distinctions are a very special honor.
This is Ruby — basically the queen, our most important lead dog.
They're a pretty big pack, and sometimes they have their disputes
— like in a schoolroom. And as their leader you have to master the art of
creating a positive vibe, so that they work together as a team.
Ben and Hanna still have another five months to prepare for the
Finnmark Race.
For Hanna, too, it is the ultimate challenge.
Of course you can meet bad weather, and you can get an injured
dog and you get tired and exhausted. So it's all these things
together for a week — and a lot of people, they don't even last a day.
Until the snowpack is firm enough for the sleds, the dogs train with a
quad on solid ground. Hanna has to repeatedly put on the brakes to
stop her team going too fast. Over the entire season from August
through late May, they cover almost 10 thousand kilometers.
In the evening her friends, family and staff gather for dinner.
The top subject of discussion is, as ever, how preparations for the race
are going.
Today they're joined by a high-profile guest and neighbor: musher
legend Roger Dahl, who won the event three times.
The training going OK?
Yes, I hope so ? I don't think we did enough training.
In terms of kilometers?
Yes. Last year we had 650, and now we only have around 300, and
it's already the 19th.
Then it's not enough.
Hanna's performances have also attracted sponsors. This season
she's getting funding from a dog-food manufacturer, together with
other successful mushers — making Hanna the youngest member of the
world's first professional dogsled squad. Although other than sharing
a sponsor, the mushers are not really a team — each competing
very much for their themselves.
Part of the team is the biggest mushers in the world and for me it
is an opportunity to learn from the best. So now I am part of that and I
also have a few other sponsors, and for me — I don't have a full-time
job and I am not fully educated. I have to have sponsors. If not, I
wouldn't be able to do what I love to do every single day.
Ben has to make do without financial backers. Being a non-
native makes him less attractive for Norwegian companies. And only
the very best mushers manage to secure lucrative sponsorship deals.
Mushing is becoming increasingly sportified up here. It's hugely
popular now, with a growing number of people going
professional. We're now starting to see big-money sponsors, and
sponsored teams. As a family-based kennel, it's hard for us to
keep up with them.
Mushing means investing a lot of time — and money. The dogs need
to be put through their paces for the entire season from August through
the end of May. The financial outlay for their food and equipment poses
an additional challenge for the family.
We worked out that the animals cost us 30 to 40 thousand euros a
year. But we'd love to keep them, and also do the race. So, we're
taking the plunge by asking if guests might want to go on a tour
with us.
Ben is able to recover some of the expenses by offering dogsled tours
which also provide further training for the animals. Although that
venture is compromised by having to tailor the tours to the wishes of
his guests.
Six months on, March 2020 in Alta. And the Finnmarksløpet is about to
begin — the toughest dogsled race in Europe, with one-thousand-two-
hundred icy kilometers awaiting the competitors.
But Ben has doubts as to whether his team is in top shape.
They haven't done those long distances so far this year, but have
had to work really hard. Ruby's on board and is fit. I hope
she puts in another good showing this year. Yokmok is the clown in
the team — he's been great in the prep races.
The dogs get a pre-race check-up from veterinarians. Otherwise,
they're not allowed to compete.
Ben is worried about the swelling on this one's leg.
The doctor says that if he has sound alternatives, she'd suggest
taking a different dog.
Fortunately, all the other dogs are OK — giving the green light for
Ben's team.
Can I take a photo of you next to each other?
Hanna is accompanied by her mother from one checkpoint to the
next. Trine competed in the race herself a number of times.
She has done so much work with the dogs. To be able to be top 5,
top 7 in a race like this is very, very hard. Because so many are good,
they know what they are doing. You have to have some luck, but you
have to be good yourself.
It's party time in Alta. Norway's main public TV station has daily
updates of the race.
Producer Hans Hartvigsen has
been covering the event for more than a decade.
It's getting bigger every year. It's a multi-faceted sport - and is
enthralling to watch!
The starting positions are drawn by lots — with Ben in 14th.
The field comprises 30 teams from Scandinavia — plus a couple of
contestants from Germany and Switzerland.
They're desperate to get going. I just hope we get off to a good start
— and then we're on our own.
On a journey that will take eight days and nights, Ben sets out on
the initial stage. The first check-point is 12 hours away.
Among the last starters is local girl Hanna — with Norwegian TV live at
the scene.
You already won the 500 kilometer race. And the 12-hundred?
Oh, they're two different worlds! We just want a decent finish!
What's the best part of the race?
Being out there, alone with my dogs.
Enjoy, and good luck, Hanna!
All that matters now is the finish - with no more interruptions. The
rules are simple. Once out in the wild, they're not allowed to have
any assistance. Over the next 8 days the mushers are granted one
extended break of 14 hours — with short breathers always allowed.
Stage one is 132 kilometers — and the longest.
There's little let-up for the mushers, as they literally dig deep and have
to push their sled through the snow — especially uphill.
The checkpoints are manned by more than 600 volunteers taking
care of the dogs.
Almost 12 hours in, Hanna arrives at the Levajok checkpoint. And now
every second counts. She's solely responsible for feeding the dogs.
The pack are permitted to take on nourishment —
but outside the checkpoint.
The faster Hanna manages to feed the dogs and get them wrapped up
for the night, the earlier she'll be able to get some shut-eye herself
for an hour or two. It's a routine Hanna has practiced dozens of times.
We rested two hours on the trail. It is a lot of snow, but it's fine.
It's not a problem.
Almost two hours later Ben also reaches the first checkpoint — with