Subtitles section Play video Print subtitles In southwest France the marriage of wine and culture is a tradition centuries old. Bordeaux with its harmony of history and terroir has come to exemplify the majesty of fine wine. In the World of Wine, Bordeaux is one of the most recognized and treasured. Collectors are happy to pay hundreds of dollars a bottle for top wines, like Château Margaux, to get them into their collection. But what's often overlooked with all the fame and glory these wines attain is that they really only represent five percent of the total Bordeaux Market. Bordeaux produces a wide range of wines, to put things into perspective, there's as much wine produced in the Region of Bordeaux as in many entire New World Wine countries. The region has over 13000 growers, 9000 Châteaus, and 57 different Appellations. In this episode we're going to travel through Bordeaux and discover all that it has to offer. The 18th century city of Bordeaux is a thriving Metropolis at the heart of the Bordeaux Region, built on trade the city is France's Southwest Port with commercial links across the globe. The city is an undiscovered pleasure of French culture and charm, although sometimes overshadowed in terms of tourism, the slower pace contributes to the bordelaise ability to appreciate food and fine wine. Even today Bordeaux remains the capital of the Wine World. The Garonne River, the region's main thoroughfare, flows in and out with the rising tide making the city built on its shores a natural port. By the 17th century, merchants of various nationalities began establishing firms on the bank of the Garonne to act as négociants, or agents between the wine producers of Bordeaux and the world marketplace. So that today the people at large celebrate the pride of Bordeaux. "The core reason why people are interested in what we are doing is just because it's terribly good to drink, so it's it's a great wine, gives a pleasure. You look at it, you smell, you swallow and you feel better" "I think when you think about wine, European wine, the first thing you think about is Bordeaux. Bordeaux is the center of the Wine World". Bordeaux's prominence, as a Wine Region today, can be traced back to one famous document. In 1855 Emperor Napoleon III wanted to showcase the finest wines of the country at the Paris exposition, so he challenged recognized brokers of the day and had them develop a list, ranking the Châteaus of Bordeaux. And this is the list. It's known as the Official Classification of 1855. Many of the great names then are great names now. Latour Margaux Lafite Haut-Brion Rothschild Here was the origin of the concept of fine wine. Wine sold by the bottle with a sense of place and history included. Other classifications followed and expanded throughout Bordeaux. "Bordeaux is certainly not just expensive wines, however those expensive wines are the symbol of Bordeaux and, as the French would say, the locomotif. They're what drive the industry here" But we're here to discover and demystify the broad elements of all Bordeaux wine. The center of the Wine World became such because it produces wines for every lifestyle and every budget, even today the styles of Bordeaux wines have and are evolving, do as much to the competition from the new world producers as to the differing taste of an expanding marketplace. With thousands of Châteaus producing wines, each distinct to its terroir, the vast array is perhaps the most dizzying aspect of the industry. How do we make sense of it all? Well, the first step is geographic. Bordeaux, with 100 000 hectares under vine, is France's largest quality wine region located on the Southwest Coast. The main waterway is the Gironde estuary with its two tributaries, the Dordogne and the Garonne, which served to divide the region into three distinct zones: the Left Bank, Entre-Deux-Mers and the Right Bank. Each and every bottle of Bordeaux is made under the Appellation d'origine contrôlée or AOC regulations. The label indicates geographically where the grapes have been harvested and, in the case of a Château, where the wine was made. All of which contribute to the concept of what the French call 'terroir'. "The whole ethos of Bordeaux is based on terroir. Terroir means not only the ground in which the grapes are grown but also the atmosphere, the weather around and drainage, it takes into account all kinds of aspects about how that grape was grown". "The main thing to remember about Bordeaux wines, both red and white, is that they are a blend and that thereafter, they are a blend of really principally three red grape varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, in various combinations depending on where you are in Bordeaux. And Sémillon and Sauvignon for the white". The most readily affordable wines of Bordeaux come from grapes harvested from all areas of the region, this is usually the product of a négociant, who is involved in the entire wine making process, from the purchase of the grapes, to the final blending and aging of the finished wines. "Making a blend is just trying to bring to the consumer the most complex and harmonious wine you can you can make" Paz Espejo is a winemaker for the Négociant Calvet, in business since 1818. In response to increasing competition from New World Wines, Calvet like others in Bordeaux, has been revitalizing itself. "I don't think we have to copy, because the interest people have always had in Bordeaux is because there was a special personality. I think we don't have to lose this personality because we will never make the same kind of wines at the New World, we're not in Australia, we're not in Chile, we are in Bordeaux and we have to understand what Bordeaux is and try to improve the quality as much as we can". The basic grape varieties used for the blending of Bordeaux red wines are Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with Cabernet Franc and, to a lesser extent, Malbec and Petit Verdot, to round off particular styles. "Cabernet Sauvignon brings acidity, tannins, so structure, spiciness, aging capacity. Merlot, for example, brings fruitiness, the floral side, the violet, the rose petal. So both seems to be, logically, a good complement, a good balance. And Cabernet Franc brings more or less between both, it is spicy but at the same time it brings acidity. So it is fresh and brings aging capacity too". "The winemaker can actually adjust the quantities of these different grapes in different years. So if one year the Merlot doesn't ripen as well as the Cabernet Sauvignon, he'll put more Cabernet Sauvignon in, so it's really a winemaker's wine" "What I want is, Vintage after Vintage, to bring to the consumer the best expression, the most beautiful wine" The next step up, in terms of quality, is what is known as Bordeaux Supérieur. Yvon Mau is another large-scale Négociant Firm, shipping over four million cases a year. Founded in 1897, Yvon Mau owns or represents a number of Bordeaux's smaller producers, among them Château Ducla, a generic Bordeaux that has recently been elevated to Bordeaux Supérieur status. "The main difference between Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur it's more consistency of quality". "The three principle differences are that the Supérieur has to have half a degree potential alcohol more, it has to have a slightly lower yield and it has to be aged for slightly longer in barrel, therefore intimating that it is a slightly more structured wine". "We're not so fond of grapes and we think that the terroir is much more important than the grapes, to give you an example and to be more precise, we think that the Cabernet produced in Médoc would be very different from the Cabernet in California, just nothing like". One of the finest qualities of Bordeaux lies in the balance. "It cannot be too much something, it could not be too much alcohol, too much tanning, too much acidity. The art of Bordeaux, the mystery of Bordeaux is to be a good balance and this balance must be, normally, with the food". This is the Médoc, a place the French refer to as the 'Promised Land of Cabernet Sauvignon'. 'la Rive Gauche' or the Left Bank is comprised of the Médoc along with Graves and Sauternes and it's here that we'll begin our journey through the Appellations of Bordeaux. October, the culmination of a year's hard work in the vineyards, the harvest traditions remain strong here with many of the same people returning year after year. Timing the harvest is critical to obtain the optimal balance of sugars and acids in the fruit and ultimately, to express the character of the vineyard. The soils in the district are quite poor for growing anything other than grapes but the rocky and gravelly soils retains heat and drains easily, which makes it ideal for the late ripening Cabernet. "The Médoc is Cabernet Sauvignon dominant, that's the grape and Cabernet Sauvignon is a very small berry and a small berry means a large surface of skin and therefore, the wines are quite tannic. These wines tend to be more austere, they need to longer aging than on the Right Bank, where it's Merlot dominant". In their youth many of the red wines of Bordeaux, although approachable, can be tight and complex. Over time these characteristics give way to leather tones, tobacco and dried fruit. Now the Vintage of a wine also contributes to its ageability. All wines, even wines from extraordinary Vintages, eventually peak and later decline. The finest Vintages can be aged for up to a hundred years in the right conditions, all the while appreciating in its subtle and complex qualities. How far back do the wines go in here? "Oh.. 1881" An interesting cellar within the Region lies at Château Batailley in the commune of Pauillac. These bottles are a testament to the Region's history and each year the Château will add four to six thousand bottles for future generations. This is quite the collection. "This is the library, this is the memory of Batailley. 1982..." Philippe Castéja is the Château owner and serves as chairman of the Médoc Classified Growth's Organization. What a library. "Oh yeah" That gives a new definition to libraries. "Yeah.. exactly Every vintage in Bordeaux is different, and this climate, this adverse climate sometimes, has made our consumers to be searching this Vintage or that Vintage because they want a wine which is going to be to be drunk younger or a little older" So this is something that's going to last" "Yeah, it's going to last for a century or so and but I'm sure that in 20, 25 years, it's going to be excellent. Why don't we make an appointment?" Okay. I'm going to get my calendar, I'm going to put that in. "Okay, sold" Absolutely The Médoc offers all sorts of quality wines including mid-level priced wine, called Cru Bourgeois. One of these is Château du Taillan, whose traditional approach is mitigated by some unique factors in its ownership. "We are five girls owning the Château at the moment and we are very fond of this Château. And we really want to go far with this Cru Bourgeois and to do the best we can for this wonderful Château. So here we are in the old cellar from the 16th century.." The Château itself was built in the 18th century and has been in the Cruse Family for over 100 years. Today even the barrel cellars, or Chai, are classified as historical monuments. "The tradition is very important, especially in the Château du Taillan, as this Château belongs to a very old family, the Cruse Family, my family and so we try to keep this tradition but to modernize slowly this tradition in order to keep the authenticity to the wine". Cru Bourgeois producers have become very sensitive to the success of New World Wine. "The market has changed since five years in the Cru Bourgeois. We know that nowadays many people produce wine in the world and the only secret for us, in Bordeaux, in the Cru Bourgeois, in the Médoc, is to produce quality wine". Traveling a little further South we come to the heartland of the Bordeaux Region. Graves Graves is the French word for gravel and the best Châteaus here are located on distinctive gravel outcrops, called 'croupes'. Unlike most other areas of Bordeaux, Graves produces both red and white wines. This is Château La Louvière, owned by André Lurton, one of the most influential producers in the Region. He has been a potent force in the development and promotion of the Graves Region. "Wine can be made well anywhere in the world with sunshine and good soil, what differs are the overall characteristics of the terroir and we have our own special characteristics, which comes from our soil but also from our blends" The Graves Region has a reputation for producing the highest quality dry white wines of Bordeaux. White wine production here combines the traditional methods with modern techniques, the white wines of the Region use both Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon.