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  • Claudia Romeo: We're in Saint-Malo, Brittany, France,

  • and we're about to visit Bordier,

  • a traditional maison du beurre, or butter house.

  • When you picture butter, you probably think of

  • a yellow block in a plastic bag.

  • Well, not here.

  • Here, butter is done artisanally.

  • Everything is churned, kneaded, and shaped by hand.

  • And I can't wait to see that.

  • Let's go.

  • In February, we met with Jean-Yves Bordier,

  • son and grandson of butter and cheese makers,

  • who brought back to France the 19th-century technique

  • of malaxage, using this big wooden wheel

  • to knead the butter.

  • To Jean-Yves, the malaxage

  • is a more romantic way to make butter.

  • Claudia: The malaxage is really

  • what makes Bordier butter unique.

  • These are 50-kilo blocks of butter extracted from milk

  • and are pretty standard in the butter-making industry,

  • even for the most artisanal.

  • But while everyone else would use

  • huge centrifuges to filter out

  • the last remaining drops of buttermilk,

  • butter at the Bordier workshop is flattened

  • by a wooden wheel and worked by hand by Eric.

  • Claudia: Let's do it.

  • Little by little, the malaxage

  • is going to give butter a new life.

  • Dating back to the late 19th century,

  • this tool was first used to rework different butters.

  • At Bordier, it also helps give butter

  • the desired texture.

  • Claudia: There's, like, no way I'm gonna do this.

  • Claudia: And when you see him doing that, it's...

  • it almost has, like, an harmony.

  • It's not easy.

  • Monsieur Bordier said this is 50 kilos of butter.

  • So, try and lift a bit of it,

  • it's gonna be, like, what?

  • 10 kilos just in one go?

  • Claudia: Eric then salts the butter using fine salt.

  • This step is crucial to make sure the butter

  • finally rejects all the leftover water it has in it.

  • Claudia: Oh, wow.

  • Actually, I can see that

  • it's getting wetter and wetter.

  • It's picking up more water.

  • Claudia: According to Jean-Yves,

  • they work with old techniques,

  • but they are not trying to recreate an old recipe.

  • Claudia: Big one. Ah, no.

  • Jean-Yves: Ah, no. Like this? OK.

  • Voilà.

  • Claudia: It's salty.

  • Jean-Yves: It's very salty.

  • Claudia: It's softer than the butter I'm used to.

  • It's much sweeter, this one.

  • Bordier also makes flavored butters,

  • including chili butter, buckwheat butter,

  • vanilla butter, and more.

  • Claudia: Yeah.

  • It's very fresh. It's very fresh and...

  • yeah, it tastes like seaweed,

  • but it's not fishy at all.

  • It's nice and sweet.

  • It really reminds you of that, like, seaside wind

  • when you're just sitting there at the beach

  • and you can smell it.

  • Claudia: Yeah, I've just, like,

  • been catapulted into the picture now.

  • Claudia: It's marvelous.

  • It's really incredible.

  • And so this one is your signature from Brittany,

  • because you're from this region?

  • Jean-Yves: It's the roots of my identity.

  • Claudia: Ah, no.

  • I would like to taste that, then. [laughing]

  • Claudia: After it's ready,

  • each stack of freshly churned butter

  • is then placed into this butter cutter,

  • another machine signature to Bordier.

  • Claudia: There's a lot of water.

  • Claudia: So this means that there's still water

  • that's coming out of the butter?

  • Claudia: The only thing that is left is shaping.

  • And just like the rest, it is all done by hand.

  • Each shape and size is custom.

  • Some chefs may order these bite-sized shapes;

  • others may just buy the whole stack

  • and cut it themselves.

  • Claudia: There's something in this butter.

Claudia Romeo: We're in Saint-Malo, Brittany, France,

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