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  • HI, I'M RICK STEVES, BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.

  • THIS TIME, WE'RE IN LONDON AGAIN.

  • THIS CITY JUST KEEPS ON GETTING BETTER.

  • THANKS FOR JOINING US.

  • LONDON'S QUINTESSENTIALLY ENGLISH, YET COSMOPOLITAN.

  • IT'S A CITY WHERE THE NEW AND MODERN

  • SEEMS TO MINGLE ENTHUSIASTICALLY WITH THE OLD AND TRADITIONAL.

  • I KEEP COMING BACK AND ALWAYS FIND A FRESH TRAVEL EXPERIENCE.

  • WE'LL CHECK OUT THE NEW, LIKE THE MILLENNIUM BRIDGE

  • AND THE BRITISH MUSEUM'S GREAT COURT,

  • AND ADMIRE THE OLD, LIKE A LEONARDO

  • AND FRAGMENTS OF THE PARTHENON.

  • WE'LL RESPECT TRADITION...

  • THE ROYAL FAMILY, THEY LIVED ON THE TOP FLOOR.

  • ...AND DO SOME SHOPPING.

  • AND AFTER A BITE OF TASTY ENGLISH CHEESE,

  • WE'LL HIKE THE NEWLY REVIVED SOUTH BANK OF THE THAMES.

  • LONDON, STRADDLING THE RIVER THAMES, IS VAST,

  • BUT EVERYTHING WE'LL SEE IS WITHIN A FEW MINUTES

  • BY TAXI, BUS OR TUBE.

  • WE'LL CHECK OUT HYDE PARK,

  • THE BRITISH MUSEUM,

  • THE NATIONAL GALLERY

  • AND, OF COURSE, THE TOWER OF LONDON.

  • WE'LL WALK FROM ST. PAUL'S ACROSS THE MILLENNIUM BRIDGE

  • TO VISIT THE TATE MODERN GALLERY

  • AND THE ATTRACTIONS OF LONDON'S SOUTH BANK.

  • LONDON WAS CUTTING EDGE IN THE '60s AND IT'S BACK,

  • IN VOGUE AGAIN FOR FASHION, ARCHITECTURE,

  • THE ARTS AND FOOD.

  • SMOKY PUBS ARE GIVING WAY TO TRENDY OUTDOOR CAFES.

  • LONDON'S CITY HALL SEEMS TO ENDORSE THE WAVE

  • OF CONTEMPORARY ARCHITECTURE WHICH STUDS THE BUSY SKYLINE

  • AND SEEMS TO CLAMOR FOR ATTENTION.

  • STROLLING THROUGH LONDON'S PARKS IS A REMINDER

  • THAT SO MANY PEOPLE CALL LONDON,

  • NOT A WORLD-CLASS SIGHT-SEEING DESTINATION,

  • BUT SIMPLY HOME.

  • THE PARKS, LIKE JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING IN THE CITY,

  • SIT ON A FOUNDATION OF HISTORY.

  • THESE INVITING GREEN SPACES,

  • ONCE THE HUNTING GROUNDS OF KINGS,

  • ARE NOW THE SUNBATHING GROUNDS OF COMMONERS.

  • AND THESE LONDONERS MAY NOT REALIZE THAT THEY VERY WELL

  • COULD BE SPEAKING FRENCH IF IT WASN'T FOR THE HEROICS

  • OF THE MAN WHO LIVED RIGHT HERE.

  • APSLEY HOUSE WAS THE MANSION OF THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON,

  • WHO BEAT NAPOLEON AT WATERLOO IN 1815.

  • THE DUKE'S GUESTS WERE GREETED BY THE MAN HE DEFEATED,

  • A LARGER-THAN-LIFE, NEARLY NAKED NAPOLEON.

  • THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON WAS ONCE THE MOST FAMOUS MAN IN EUROPE.

  • HIS LAVISH LIVING QUARTERS ARE EMBELLISHED

  • BY GIFTS SHOWERED ON HIM BY A GRATEFUL EUROPE,

  • INCLUDING 200 PAINTINGS,

  • STILL DISPLAYED MUCH AS THE ART-LOVING DUKE HUNG THEM.

  • WELLINGTON'S VICTORY OVER NAPOLEON AND THE FRENCH

  • SET THE STAGE FOR BRITAIN'S GLORIOUS VICTORIAN AGE,

  • WHEN IT WAS THE WORLD'S ONLY SUPERPOWER

  • AND THE SUN NEVER SET UPON ITS EMPIRE.

  • THIS WAS THE REIGN OF QUEEN VICTORIA,

  • WHO RULED FROM 1837 TO 1901.

  • THE VICTORIAN AGE WAS AN EXUBERANT TIME.

  • THE NEO-GOTHIC ALBERT MEMORIAL REMINDS LONDON

  • HOW VICTORIA'S BELOVED HUSBAND ALBERT --

  • THE ONLY ONE WHO CALLED HER VICKIE --

  • DID SO MUCH TO PROMOTE TECHNOLOGY AND CULTURE

  • DURING THAT INDUSTRIAL BOOM TIME.

  • THE STATUES AT THE BASE HERALD THE GREAT ACCOMPLISHMENTS

  • OF BRITAIN'S 19th-CENTURY GLORY DAYS.

  • ALBERT DIED IN 1861.

  • HIS WIFE, QUEEN VICTORIA,

  • WAS POSSIBLY THE WORLD'S MOST DETERMINED MOURNER.

  • SHE WORE BLACK FOR THE STANDARD TWO YEARS,

  • AND THEN TACKED ON 38 MORE FOR GOOD MEASURE.

  • TAKING MOURNING TO NEW HEIGHTS,

  • SHE REQUIRED THAT THE CITY'S ONCE-COLORFUL FINIALS

  • BE PAINTED BLACK, AS THEY REMAIN TODAY.

  • THE QUEEN BUILT GRAND MONUMENTS TO HER ALBERT,

  • LIKE THE ROYAL ALBERT HALL.

  • THE IMMENSE VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM

  • IS NAMED FOR THE ROYAL COUPLE WHO DID SO MUCH

  • TO SUPPORT THE MANY TRIUMPHS OF THEIR DAY.

  • LIKE LOTS OF LONDON'S TOP ATTRACTIONS, IT'S FREE.

  • THE V&A GREW OUT OF THE GREAT EXHIBITION OF 1851.

  • THIS FIRST WORLD'S FAIR,

  • HOUSED IN A TEMPORARY GLASS AND STEEL PEOPLE'S PALACE,

  • CELEBRATED THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION

  • AND THE GREATNESS OF BRITAIN.

  • THE THEME OF THE BRITAIN GALLERIES

  • IS STYLE, TASTE AND DESIGN FROM 1500 THROUGH 1900.

  • FOUR HUNDRED YEARS OF ENGLISH FASHION HISTORY

  • ARE CORSETED INTO A SERIES OF EXQUISITE DISPLAY CASES.

  • THIS PAINTING FROM AROUND 1600 IS OF A WOMAN

  • WEARING THIS ACTUAL GARMENT.

  • IT WAS TYPICAL FORMAL DAYWEAR,

  • LINEN AND SILK EMBROIDERED WITH SILVER THREAD.

  • NIGHTCAPS WERE FASHIONABLE AMONG ARISTOCRATIC MEN.

  • THIS TORTOISESHELL AND SILVER TOILETRIES KIT

  • SHOWS THAT IN 1640, CAREFUL GROOMING WAS AS IMPORTANT

  • AS DRESSING MAGNIFICENTLY.

  • IN THE 1670s, SHOES WERE CALLED "STRAIGHTS,"

  • AND THERE WAS NO DIFFERENCE BETWEEN RIGHT AND LEFT.

  • WHALEBONE AND LACING KEPT TORSOS FLAT AND LONG.

  • FANS WERE TOOLS FOR FLIRTING.

  • IT WAS SAID, WHILE A MAN'S WEAPON WAS A SWORD,

  • A WOMAN'S WEAPON WAS A FAN, AND THE FAN DID MORE DAMAGE.

  • IN THE 1740s, A RICH WOMAN'S COURT DRESS

  • WAS AN EXTRAVAGANT DISPLAY OF WEALTH,

  • EVEN IF IT MEANT SHE ENTERED ROOMS SIDEWAYS.

  • THE HUGE COLLECTION ILLUSTRATES

  • THE FAR REACH OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE,

  • FROM ITS EXQUISITE INDIAN ART

  • TO ITS SUMPTUOUS HALL OF CHINESE ARTIFACTS.

  • THE HALL OF CASTS IS FILLED WITH PLASTER COPIES

  • OF EUROPE'S GREATEST STATUARY, MADE FOR THE BENEFIT

  • OF LONDON'S 19TH-CENTURY ART STUDENTS

  • WHO COULDN'T AFFORD A RAIL PASS.

  • STUDENTS COULD COMPARE THE RENAISSANCE GENIUS

  • OF DONATELLO, WHOSE DAVID WAS EUROPE'S FIRST MALE NUDE

  • SINCE ROMAN TIMES, AND THAT OF MICHELANGELO A CENTURY LATER,

  • WITH HIS MORE HEROIC DAVID.

  • AROUND THE BACK YOU'LL FIND THAT THIS DAVID

  • CAME WITH AN ACCESSORY, A CLIP-ON FIG LEAF.

  • AS THIS WAS THE VICTORIAN AGE,

  • WHEN ROYAL LADIES CAME TO VISIT,

  • THEY'D HANG IT ON THE STATUE FOR MODESTY.

  • IF THE DELIGHTS OF THE V&A WHET YOUR SHOPPING APPETITE,

  • LONDON'S VICTORIAN GALLERIES

  • EVOKE SHOPPING IN THE 19th CENTURY.

  • AND ALL OVER LONDON YOU'LL FIND INVITING LITTLE SHOPS

  • FOR WHATEVER TREASURE YOU FANCY.

  • HARRODS IS LONDON'S VAST AND VENERABLE DEPARTMENT STORE.

  • IT'S HUGE -- 300 DEPARTMENTS,

  • A MILLION SQUARE FEET ON SEVEN FLOORS --

  • YET CLASSY.

  • THE FOOD HALLS, WITH THEIR EDWARDIAN-TILED WALLS,

  • DELICIOUS DISPLAYS,

  • TEMPTING EATERIES

  • AND STAFF IN PERIOD COSTUMES, ARE LOTS OF FUN.

  • A SMALL SHRINE INVITES VISITORS TO PAY THEIR RESPECTS

  • TO PRINCESS DIANA AND DODI AL-FAYED,

  • WHOSE FATHER OWNS HARRODS.

  • THE EGYPTIAN ESCALATOR IS A REMINDER

  • THAT MR. AL-FAYED IS FROM EGYPT,

  • AND HE'S SPENT A FORTUNE

  • REVITALIZING THIS HISTORIC DEPARTMENT STORE.

  • RIDING IT, YOU ASCEND INTO HARRODS' SHOPPING WONDERLAND.

  • YOU'LL FIND EVERYTHING

  • FROM SPRAWLING HALLS OF DESIGNER WOMEN'S WEAR

  • TO TRADITIONAL MEN'S WEAR

  • TO A $12,000 MINI-JAGUAR FOR THE KID WHO HAS EVERYTHING.

  • HUGE EUROPEAN CITIES LIKE LONDON ARE MADE MANAGEABLE

  • BY EXCELLENT SUBWAY SYSTEMS.

  • LONDON'S MIGHTY TUBE TAKES US ANYWHERE IN THE CENTER

  • FOR LESS THAN THE COST OF A CUCUMBER SANDWICH AT HARRODS.

  • WE'RE ON OUR WAY TO THE BRITISH MUSEUM.

  • AT THE PEAK OF ITS EMPIRE,

  • WHEN THE UNION JACK FLEW OVER A QUARTER OF THE PLANET,

  • ENGLAND COLLECTED ART AND ARTIFACTS AS FAST

  • AS IT COLLECTED COLONIES.

  • THIS PLACE, THE BRITISH MUSEUM, IS THE SHOWCASE

  • FOR THOSE EXTRAORDINARY TREASURES.

  • ITS CENTERPIECE IS THE GREAT COURT,

  • AN IMPRESSIVE EXAMPLE OF EUROPE'S KNACK

  • FOR PRESERVING OLD ARCHITECTURAL SPACES

  • BY MAKING THEM FRESH, FUNCTIONAL AND INVITING.

  • THE STATELY READING ROOM,

  • A TEMPLE OF KNOWLEDGE AND HIGH THINKING, WAS THE STUDY HALL

  • FOR OSCAR WILDE, RUDYARD KIPLING AND T.S. ELIOT.

  • KARL MARX RESEARCHED RIGHT HERE WHILE WRITING "DAS KAPITAL."

  • THE BRITISH MUSEUM IS THE CHRONICLE

  • OF WESTERN CIVILIZATION.

  • YOU CAN STUDY THREE GREAT CIVILIZATIONS --

  • EGYPT, ASSYRIA AND GREECE -- IN ONE FASCINATING MORNING.

  • THE EGYPTIAN COLLECTION IS THE GREATEST OUTSIDE OF EGYPT.

  • IT'S KICKED OFF WITH THE ROSETTA STONE,

  • WHICH PROVIDED THE BREAKTHROUGH

  • IN DECIPHERING ANCIENT EGYPTIAN HIEROGLYPHS.

  • DISCOVERED IN 1799, IT TOLD THE SAME STORY IN THREE LANGUAGES:

  • GREEK...

  • A MODERN FORM OF EGYPTIAN...

  • AND ANCIENT EGYPTIAN.

  • THIS ENABLED ARCHEOLOGISTS

  • TO COMPARE THE TWO LANGUAGES THEY UNDERSTOOD

  • WITH THE ANCIENT EGYPTIAN, WHICH WAS YET TO BE DECIPHERED.

  • THANKS TO THIS STONE, THEY BROKE THE CODE,

  • OPENING THE DOOR TO UNDERSTANDING

  • A GREAT CIVILIZATION.

  • THE EGYPT WE THINK OF -- YOU KNOW, PYRAMIDS, MUMMIES,

  • PHARAOHS AND GUYS WHO WALK FUNNY --

  • LASTED FROM ABOUT 3,000 TO 1,000 B.C.

  • IT WAS A TIME OF UNPRECEDENTED STABILITY, VERY LITTLE CHANGE

  • IN GOVERNMENT, RELIGION OR ARTS.

  • IMAGINE, 2,000 YEARS OF EISENHOWER.

  • EGYPTIAN ART WAS ART WITH A PURPOSE.

  • IT PLACATED THE GODS.

  • THE ENTIRE PANTHEON, A COSMIC ZOO OF DEITIES,

  • WAS SCULPTED AND WORSHIPPED,

  • AND IT SERVED AS PROPAGANDA FOR THE PHARAOHS.

  • THEY RULED WITH UNQUESTIONED AUTHORITY

  • AND WERE CONSIDERED GODS ON EARTH.

  • AND MUCH OF THE ART WAS FOR DEAD PEOPLE,

  • FOR A SMOOTHER DEPARTURE AND A HAPPIER AFTERLIFE.

  • IN ANCIENT EGYPT, YOU COULD TAKE IT WITH YOU.

  • CORPSES WERE PAINSTAKINGLY MUMMIFIED.

  • THE INTERNAL ORGANS WERE REMOVED AND PUT IN JARS.

  • THEN THE BODY WAS PRESERVED WITH PITCH, DRIED

  • AND WRAPPED FROM HEAD TO TOE.

  • THE WOODEN COFFIN WAS PAINTED WITH MAGIC SPELLS AND IMAGES

  • THOUGHT TO BE USEFUL IN THE NEXT LIFE.

  • THE FINELY DECORATED COFFINS

  • WERE PUT INTO A STONE SARCOPHAGUS LIKE THIS.

  • THESE WERE THEN PLACED IN A TOMB,

  • ALONG WITH THE ALLOTTED BAGGAGE FOR THAT ULTIMATE TRIP.

  • THE GREAT PYRAMIDS WERE JUST GIANT TOMBS

  • FOR EGYPT'S MOST POWERFUL, CAREFULLY DESIGNED

  • TO PROTECT THEIR PRECIOUS VALUABLES

  • FOR THAT VOYAGE INTO THE NEXT LIFE.

  • IN ITS WANING YEARS, EGYPT WAS CONQUERED BY ASSYRIA,

  • PRESENT-DAY IRAQ.

  • THESE WINGED LIONS GUARDED AN ASSYRIAN PALACE

  • NEARLY 900 YEARS BEFORE CHRIST.

  • ASSYRIA CONSIDERED ITSELF

  • THE LION OF EARLY MIDDLE EASTERN CIVILIZATIONS.

  • IT WAS A NATION OF HARDY AND DISCIPLINED WARRIORS.

  • ASSYRIAN KINGS SHOWED OFF THEIR POWER IN BATTLE

  • AND BY HUNTING LIONS.

  • THIS DYING LIONESS, ROARING IN PAIN, WAS CARVED

  • AS ASSYRIA WAS FALLING TO THE NEXT MIGHTY POWER, BABYLON.

  • HISTORY IS A SUCCESSION OF SEEMINGLY

  • INVINCIBLE SUPERPOWERS, WHICH ALL EVENTUALLY FALL.

  • GREECE, DURING ITS GOLDEN AGE, ROUGHLY 400 B.C., SET THE TONE

  • OF SO MUCH OF WESTERN CIVILIZATION TO FOLLOW.

  • THE CITY OF ATHENS WAS THE SITE OF A CULTURAL EXPLOSION,

  • WHICH WITHIN A COUPLE OF GENERATIONS

  • ESSENTIALLY INVENTED OUR NOTION OF DEMOCRACY, THEATER,

  • LITERATURE, MATHEMATICS, SCIENCE, PHILOSOPHY

  • AND SO MUCH MORE.

  • AN EVOCATIVE REMNANT OF GREECE'S GLORY DAYS

  • IS THE SCULPTURE WHICH ONCE DECORATED THE PARTHENON,

  • A TEMPLE ON THE ACROPOLIS HILL IN ATHENS.

  • HERE, A LONG PROCESSION OF CITIZENS

  • HONORS THE GODDESS ATHENA.

  • THE CARVINGS OF THE TEMPLE'S PEDIMENT,

  • EVEN IN THEIR RUINED STATE, ARE A MASTERPIECE,

  • SHOWING GODS AND GODDESSES

  • CELEBRATING THE BIRTHDAY OF ATHENA.

  • THE GREEKS PRIDED THEMSELVES ON CREATING ORDER OUT OF CHAOS,

  • HERE SYMBOLIZED BY THE STRUGGLE BETWEEN HALF-ANIMAL CENTAURS

  • AND CIVILIZED HUMANS.

  • FIRST, THE CENTAURS GET THE UPPER HAND.

  • THEN, THE HUMANS RALLY AND DRIVE THEM OFF.

  • IN GOLDEN-AGE GREECE,

  • CIVILIZATION FINALLY TRIUMPHED OVER BARBARISM.

  • AND WHERE DID THIS HEROIC TRIUMPH EVENTUALLY LEAD?

  • COVENT GARDEN.

  • THIS BOUTIQUISH SHOPPING DISTRICT

  • IS A NEVER-ENDING CARNIVAL OF PEOPLE ENJOYING LIFE.

  • NEARBY, TRAFALGAR SQUARE IS ANOTHER VIBRANT PEOPLE ZONE.

  • AND OVERLOOKING IT IS THE NATIONAL GALLERY,

  • WITH LONDON'S GREATEST COLLECTION

  • OF EUROPEAN PAINTINGS.

  • THE NATIONAL GALLERY LETS YOU TOUR THE SWEEPING STORY

  • OF EUROPEAN ART WITHOUT EVER CROSSING THE CHANNEL.

  • FROM MEDIEVAL ALTARPIECES, WHICH TOLD BIBLE STORIES

  • IN RICH, YET TWO-DIMENSIONAL DETAIL,

  • ART ENTERS THE RENAISSANCE.

  • HERE, THE ITALIAN MASTER CRIVELLI PULLS OUT

  • ALL THE STOPS TO SHOW REALISTIC DETAIL

  • WHILE PORTRAYING THE ANNUNCIATION.

  • NOTICE THE PLAYFULNESS HE EMPLOYS

  • TO SHOW OFF HIS MASTERY OF 3-D.

  • FROM THE FOREGROUND, YOU GO BACK, BACK, BACK,

  • AND THEN, BAM, YOU'VE GOT A PICKLE IN YOUR FACE.

  • AND RENAISSANCE PAINTERS REVEL

  • IN PRE-CHRISTIAN CLASSICAL SCENES.

  • HERE, ANOTHER ITALIAN MASTER, SANDRO BOTTICELLI,

  • PAINTS MARS TAKING A BREAK FROM WAR...

  • ...SUCCUMBING TO VENUS AND THE DELIGHTS OF LOVE

  • WHILE IMPISH SATYRS PLAY INNOCENTLY

  • WITH THE DISCARDED TOOLS OF DEATH.

  • IT WAS THE DAWN OF THE RENAISSANCE

  • AND THERE WAS AN AIR OF PLAYFUL OPTIMISM.

  • LEONARDO da VINCI TAKES MARY AND JESUS

  • OUT OF THE GOLD-LEAF NEVER-NEVER LAND

  • OF MEDIEVAL ALTARPIECES AND BRINGS THEM RIGHT DOWN

  • TO A REAL WORLD WE CAN RELATE TO.

  • LEONARDO'S SUBTLE PLAY OF LIGHT ON THE FACES IS MASTERFUL.

  • AND THE NATIONAL GALLERY'S DELIGHTFUL SWEEP

  • THROUGH ART HISTORY CONTINUES.

  • FROM BAROQUE, WITH DRAMATIC FANTASIES --

  • THIS ONE THANKS TO RUBENS --

  • TO FRILLY ROCOCO DECADENCE.

  • IMPRESSIONISTS LIKE RENOIR

  • CAPTURE THE BREEZY AMBIANCE OF A BOAT RIDE.

  • AND CEZANNE TAKES US TO THE BRINK OF THE MODERN WORLD.

  • MANY OF LONDON'S TOP SIGHTS FRONT THE RIVER THAMES,

  • WHICH HAS BECOME A TRANSPORTATION THOROUGHFARE

  • FOR TOURISTS.

  • WE'RE SAILING FROM WESTMINSTER, UNDER BIG BEN,

  • TO THE TOWER OF LONDON,

  • ENJOYING AN INFORMATIVE NARRATION WITH THE VIEWS.

  • IT WAS OVER 200 YEARS AGO AS A PRIVATE RESIDENCE

  • FOR THE EARLS AND DUKES OF SOMERSET.

  • TOWER BRIDGE LOOKS MEDIEVAL, BUT IT WAS ACTUALLY BUILT

  • WITH A STEEL SKELETON IN 1894 IN FULL MEDIEVAL STYLE,

  • TO MATCH ITS FAMOUS NEIGHBOR JUST A FEW STEPS AWAY.

  • THE TOWER OF LONDON GOES BACK TO THE NORMAN CONQUEST.

  • WILLIAM, DUKE OF NORMANDY, BECAME WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR

  • WHEN HE CROSSED THE ENGLISH CHANNEL IN 1066

  • AND TOOK THE THRONE OF ENGLAND.

  • TO HELP ESTABLISH HIS RULE, HE HAD THIS AWESOME --

  • AND REALLY AWESOME IN ITS DAY -- FORTRESS BUILT.

  • ITS PURPOSE: PUT 15 FEET OF STONE

  • BETWEEN HIM AND HIS NEW SUBJECTS.

  • THIS ORIGINAL TOWER, THE WHITE TOWER,

  • GAVE THE CASTLE COMPLEX ITS NAME.

  • THE STYLE OF THE AGE WAS ROMANESQUE,

  • WHICH THE ENGLISH CALL NORMAN

  • FOR THE INVADERS WHO IMPORTED IT.

  • THIS CHARMING CHAPEL OF ST. JOHN,

  • DATING TO 1080 AND ONE OF THE OLDEST IN ENGLAND,

  • PROVIDES A RARE LOOK AT PURE NORMAN ARCHITECTURE:

  • ROUND ROMAN-STYLE ARCHES AND THICK WALLS.

  • YOU'LL SEE AN INTIMIDATING COLLECTION

  • OF MEDIEVAL WEAPONRY AND ARMOR.

  • YOUR ENTRY INCLUDES A PEEK

  • AT THE MOST DAZZLING CROWN JEWELS IN EUROPE --

  • NO CAMERAS ALLOWED -- AND AN ENTERTAINING TOUR

  • WITH ONE OF THE YEOMAN WARDERS, OR BEEFEATERS.

  • PLEASE DENOTE, THIS IS STILL A ROYAL PALACE.

  • ALTHOUGH NO LONGER A ROYAL RESIDENCE,

  • WE SHOULD NOT LOSE SIGHT OF THE FACT

  • THAT ALL OF OUR KINGS AND QUEENS,

  • THEY LIVED HERE FOR MORE THAN 500 YEARS.

  • THE TOWER MARKS THE OLDEST PART OF LONDON,

  • A DISTRICT CALLED "THE CITY."

  • TODAY THIS IS THE FINANCIAL CENTER OF BRITAIN.

  • BUT THESE DAYS,

  • BANK HEADQUARTERS FILL SHINY SKYSCRAPERS

  • AND MANY OF THE ELEGANT ORIGINAL BANK BUILDINGS

  • SURVIVE AS FANCY PUBS,

  • THEIR VAULTS NOW FILLED WITH KEGS OF REAL ENGLISH ALE.

  • IN PUBS YOU ORDER AT THE BAR.

  • LAGER IS THE COLD, CARBONATED AMERICAN-STYLE BEER.

  • ALES AND BITTERS ARE THE MORE TRADITIONAL ENGLISH CHOICE.

  • ONLY CONFUSED TOURISTS LEAVE A TIP.

  • WHILE THE TUBE TAKES ME ON LONG JAUNTS UNDERGROUND,

  • BUSES ARE GREAT FOR QUICK HOPS.

  • AND WHEN ARMED WITH MY CHEAP ALL-DAY TRANSIT PASS,

  • BUSES WORK PERFECTLY FOR HOPPING ON AND OFF

  • BETWEEN SIGHTS.

  • TAKE ADVANTAGE OF PUBLIC TRANSIT

  • AND LONDON GETS MUCH EASIER.

  • IN A MOVE TO ALLEVIATE ITS NOTORIOUS TRAFFIC PROBLEMS,

  • LONDON LEVIES A CONGESTION CHARGE ON PRIVATE CARS

  • ENTERING THE CITY CENTER.

  • THIS LEAVES THE STREETS MOSTLY TO TAXIS AND BUSES,

  • THINGS MOVE ALONG A LITTLE QUICKER,

  • AND MONEY RAISED HELPS SUBSIDIZE PUBLIC TRANSIT.

  • MORE DEPARTURES, CHEAPER FARES.

  • SOMERSET HOUSE, A GRAND 18th-CENTURY CIVIC PALACE,

  • NOW HOUSES SEVERAL FINE GALLERIES AND MUSEUMS.

  • THE GILBERT COLLECTION DISPLAYS SOME OF THE BEST

  • IN EUROPEAN DECORATIVE ARTS.

  • SNUFF BOXES ARE A HIGHLIGHT.

  • THESE CONTAINED POWDERED AND SCENTED SNUFF TOBACCO,

  • A CRAZE AMONG THE ARISTOCRACY IN 18th-CENTURY EUROPE.

  • THESE FANCY LITTLE BOXES WERE POPULAR AS GIFTS.

  • DIPLOMATS AND ROYALTY GAVE THEM AWAY LIKE JEWELRY.

  • A FASHIONABLE MAN WOULD HAVE A DIFFERENT SNUFF BOX

  • FOR EVERY OCCASION.

  • FREDERICK THE GREAT OWNED OVER 300 BOXES.

  • HIS BEST, WHILE CONSIDERED PART OF THE PRUSSIAN CROWN JEWELS,

  • ARE HERE IN LONDON.

  • THIS ONE, FROM 1765, IS MOTHER-OF-PEARL,

  • STUDDED WITH PRECIOUS STONES AND A PROFUSION OF DIAMONDS.

  • MICRO-MOSAICS ARE ANOTHER EXQUISITE ART FORM

  • FROM THE 1700s.

  • THESE WERE SOUVENIRS FOR ARISTOCRATS

  • MAKING THE GRAND TOUR.

  • SCENES FEATURED THEIR FAVORITE SIGHTS,

  • LIKE POSTCARDS TOURISTS PICK UP TODAY.

  • ROME WAS THE MOST POPULAR DESTINATION FEATURED.

  • MADE FROM THOUSANDS OF TINY FRAGMENTS,

  • THE PIECES ARE SO INTRICATE

  • THAT THE MUSEUM PROVIDES MAGNIFYING GLASSES.

  • TO ADORN THEIR JEWELRY, WEALTHY WOMEN BROUGHT MOSAICS HOME,

  • WHERE THEIR FAVORITE JEWELER FASHIONED THEM

  • INTO DELIGHTS SUCH AS THESE.

  • THE MILLENNIUM BRIDGE CONNECTS THE CITY OF LONDON

  • WITH THE SOUTH BANK OF THE THAMES.

  • IT'S A SUSPENSION BRIDGE, BUT ITS PYLONS VEER OUT

  • IN ORDER NOT TO OBLITERATE THE FINE VIEWS.

  • NICKNAMED "THE BLADE OF LIGHT" FOR ITS SLEEK DESIGN,

  • IT CONNECTS OLD AND NEW, TRAD AND MOD,

  • ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL WITH THE GREAT TATE MODERN ART GALLERY.

  • THE TATE MODERN, OPENED TO CELEBRATE THE MILLENNIUM,

  • FILLS AN OLD POWER STATION.

  • IT KICKED OFF THE 21st CENTURY

  • WITH A HIGH-VOLTAGE COLLECTION OF ART FROM THE 20th.

  • VISITORS ENJOY AN ENTERTAINING COCKTAIL OF DALI,

  • PICASSO,

  • STELLA,

  • POP ART

  • AND DADA.

  • WHILE YOU CAN SIMPLY WANDER ENJOYING THE REFRESHING

  • JUXTAPOSITION OF BIZARRE IMAGES AND SURREAL FANTASIES,

  • YOU CAN ALSO RENT AN AUDIO GUIDE

  • THAT LETS YOU STROLL THROUGH THE COLLECTION

  • ACCOMPANIED BY THE VOICE OF THE ARTISTS DESCRIBING THEIR WORK.

  • THE SOUTH BANK OF THE THAMES,

  • ONCE A DEPRESSED INDUSTRIAL ZONE,

  • NOW THRIVES WITH RESTAURANTS, CONDOS AND CULTURAL CENTERS,

  • ALL TIED TOGETHER BY THE JUBILEE PROMENADE.

  • THIS RIVERSIDE LANE,

  • POPULAR WITH STROLLERS, JOGGERS AND BIKERS,

  • STRETCHES FROM THE TOWER BRIDGE TO BIG BEN

  • WITH PLENTY OF CURIOSITIES AND TRENDY PUBS ALONG THE WAY.

  • AND AT LOW TIDE YOU CAN ACTUALLY DO SOME BEACHCOMBING.

  • THESE ARE MY FAVORITE TREASURES.

  • THESE ARE BROKEN LITTLE BITS OF PIPE STEM,

  • DATING BACK A COUPLE HUNDRED YEARS,

  • BACK WHEN LONDONERS BOUGHT AND SOLD THEIR TOBACCO

  • IN LITTLE DISPOSABLE ONE-USE PIPES.

  • THEY'D SMOKE THEIR TOBACCO, TOSS IT INTO THE THAMES RIVER.

  • HISTORY EVERYWHERE.

  • HERE'S A -- HERE'S A PIECE OF RED TILE.

  • THIS DATES BACK FROM BEFORE THEY HAD SLATE ROOFS,

  • WHEN THE ENTIRE CITY WAS COVERED WITH RED-TILE ROOFS.

  • AND JUST A BLOCK INLAND, AT THE BOROUGH MARKET,

  • YOU CAN STILL FEEL A LITTLE OF THE GRIT OF THE SOUTH BANK

  • BEFORE ITS REVITALIZATION.

  • A THOUSAND YEARS AGO, THIS MARKED THE EDGE OF TOWN

  • AND FARMERS BROUGHT FRESH GOODS HERE TO THE CITY GATES.

  • TODAY THE DESCENDANT OF LONDON'S

  • OLDEST VEGETABLE MARKET FILLS THIS VICTORIAN ARCADE.

  • THIS GOURMET CHEESE SHOP KEEPS ITS DEVOTED FOLLOWING HAPPY

  • AND INTRODUCES VISITORS TO FINE ENGLISH CHEESES WITH A PASSION.

  • THERE'S A LOT MORE BRITISH CHEESE THAN PEOPLE THINK.

  • EVEN BRITISH PEOPLE COMING IN HERE

  • ARE SURPRISED BY THE VARIETY.

  • I MEAN, YOU SEE IT COMES IN ALL DIFFERENT SHAPES AND SIZES.

  • YOU'VE GOT COW'S MILK, SHEEP'S MILK, GOAT'S MILK,

  • SUCH A WIDE VARIETY OF STYLES.

  • I MEAN, THESE ARE ALL ARTISANS, VERY SMALL CHEESE MAKERS.

  • BASICALLY HANDMADE CHEESE; EVERYTHING WE SELL IS HANDMADE.

  • WELL, HERE WE'VE GOT BASICALLY A CHEDDAR AND A STILTON.

  • NOW STILTON'S UNUSUAL, UNLIKE THE CHEDDAR,

  • BECAUSE IT HAS TO BE MADE IN A SPECIFIC AREA:

  • NOTTINGHAM, DERBYSHIRE AND LEICESTER.

  • IT'S THE ONLY BRITISH CHEESE

  • WHICH HAS THAT SORT OF CONTROL ON IT.

  • THERE'S ONLY SIX MAKERS OF STILTON IN THE WORLD,

  • AND OF THE SIX, THESE ARE PROBABLY THE SMALLEST

  • AND DO IT MOST BY HAND.

  • AND WHAT YOU GET IS A CREAMIER STILTON.

  • TRY THIS.

  • THIS IS WHAT WE CALL -- THIS IS WHAT WE CALL A PROPER CHEDDAR.

  • SO IT'S MADE IN THE CHEDDAR REGION,

  • ABOUT TWO HOURS WEST OF LONDON, SOMERSET.

  • IT'S CLOTH-BOUND, 50-POUND WHEELS, UNPASTEURIZED MILK,

  • AND IT'S THEIR OWN HERD OF COWS AS WELL THAT IT COMES FROM,

  • THE MILK.

  • OUR RIVERSIDE WALK FINISHES WITH A CLASSIC VIEW OF BIG BEN

  • AND THE HALLS OF PARLIAMENT.

  • AND FOR A CHEAP AND EASY FLIGHT OVER LONDON,

  • WE'RE RIDING THE LONDON EYE.

  • THE WORLD'S LARGEST OBSERVATION WHEEL IS DESIGNED

  • LIKE A GIANT BICYCLE WHEEL.

  • A PAN-EUROPEAN UNDERTAKING, IT'S MADE WITH BRITISH STEEL;

  • DUTCH ENGINEERING;

  • AND GERMAN, FRENCH AND ITALIAN PARTS.

  • IT RUNS EFFICIENTLY AND ALMOST SILENTLY

  • AS VISITORS ENJOY A 30-MINUTE ONCE-AROUND ROTATION.

  • FROM THE TOP OF THE 450-FOOT-HIGH WHEEL,

  • THE HIGHEST PUBLIC VIEWPOINT IN LONDON,

  • BIG BEN LOOKS SMALL, AND ONE OF THE WORLD'S GREATEST CITIES

  • SEEMS TO STRETCH ON AND ON FOREVER.

  • IT'S A CITY YOU CAN ENJOY COMING BACK TO

  • FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIFE.

  • THANKS FOR JOINING US.

  • I'M RICK STEVES.

  • UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELIN'.

  • ENTHUSIASTICALLY WITH THE OLD AND TRADITIONAL.

  • I KEEP COMIN' BACK AND BACK AND DIG IT.

  • I DIG IT!

  • I REALLY DIG IT!

  • OH!

  • COULD I JUST STAND HERE

  • AND TALK TO THE CAMERA FOR A MOMENT?

  • YOU'RE GONNA PULL UP?

  • THAT'S GOOD.

  • THAT'S WHAT WE WANT.

  • HEY, I'M RICK STEVES,

  • BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE!

HI, I'M RICK STEVES, BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.

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