Placeholder Image

Subtitles section Play video

  • Claudia Romeo: We're in Edinburgh, Scotland,

  • and we're about to visit Macsween,

  • a third-generation family-run haggis producer.

  • What we're about to see is traditional haggis,

  • which is encased in animal tripe

  • and stuffed with meat, spices, salt,

  • and a few more ingredients.

  • So let's go and find out which ones.

  • I've always been curious about haggis,

  • and finally I get the chance to travel to Scotland

  • to find out how it's made

  • and why it matters so much to Scots.

  • Leading me in this journey is James Macsween,

  • who has turned his grandfather's butcher shop in Edinburgh

  • into one of the most successful haggis companies in the UK.

  • James: Being a boy in a family business,

  • I never get tired of eating haggis,

  • from when I was old enough to understand what my dad did

  • to, you know, 40-plus years later.

  • I love haggis. I love haggis.

  • Claudia: There is no steadfast rule

  • as to what specific animal has to go into haggis.

  • At Macsween, the base is lamb lungs and beef fat.

  • James: I'm the third-generation

  • managing director of Macsween's.

  • We're still using that same recipe

  • that we started with in 1953.

  • You can have a pork haggis, you can have lamb and beef.

  • You can have a lamb, beef, and pork.

  • Some people make venison haggis.

  • We've made venison haggis in the past.

  • But as long as this business has been making haggis,

  • we have always made lamb and beef recipe.

  • Claudia: How many lungs are there in here?

  • James: Oh, hundreds, hundreds.

  • They've all been,

  • it's a big block of meat that we guillotine.

  • But, you know, there's hundreds.

  • Claudia: OK.

  • And how many haggis are these going to make?

  • James: By the time Connor has lifted

  • everything for this batch,

  • it will make 2,000 puddings,

  • or 4,000 portions.

  • Claudia: Each pudding is meant to serve

  • two to three people,

  • so that is about two portions per pudding.

  • It looks like marble. James: Yeah, it's like...

  • Claudia: It looks like Tuscan marble.

  • James: Travertine.

  • Pink travertine.

  • Claudia: Yeah, yeah, yeah.

  • James: Some manufacturers mince a lot of their meat raw,

  • and then they cook it in the casing.

  • We don't do it like that. Claudia: Oh, OK.

  • James: We cook our lungs.

  • Others, some don't. Claudia: Don't.

  • Oh. James: So cooking it

  • makes our haggis light and fluffy.

  • So we... Claudia: It smells like liver,

  • actually. James: Yeah, yeah, well,

  • it will smell like it.

  • It doesn't taste like it.

  • Claudia: And lungs, are they...

  • they are safe to eat, I guess, but

  • why is it that they are banned in some countries?

  • James: According to Canada and America,

  • they think that you're gonna contract tuberculosis.

  • Pretty much every butcher in Scotland will make haggis.

  • We eat a huge amount of haggis in Scotland.

  • Everybody is OK.

  • It's really well cooked.

  • We cook the lungs.

  • They then get, once they've been mixed

  • with all the other ingredients,

  • it goes into the casing, it gets cooked again.

  • And then for the consumer to eat it, it gets cooked again.

  • It's very safe.

  • Claudia: What James is referring to

  • is a 1971 US ban on imported animal lungs

  • that is still in place today.

  • But while haggis cannot be imported from Scotland,

  • there are still some local producers

  • feeding those hungry for haggis across the pond.

  • Lungs are cooked for about two hours

  • before being mixed with onions and salt.

  • Meanwhile, in this other room,

  • spices and oatmeal are measured

  • to then be blended together with gravy and the minced meat.

  • They wouldn't share the full list of spices,

  • but from what we can tell,

  • there may be nutmeg, mace, and coriander.

  • James: It's really very simple.

  • Claudia: Yeah.

  • It is, actually.

  • It's just a lot of ingredients.

  • James: A lot of ingredients.

  • It's just like making a hot sausage or a salami.

  • Claudia: But you would never just miss out

  • on any of these ingredients? James: Yeah.

  • No, you wouldn't. Claudia: If you make haggis

  • without, like, spices, then.

  • James: No.

  • Haggis needs spice.

  • Claudia: Now it's time to encase the haggis.

  • This is done with beef intestine.

  • So this is the intestine you use?

  • James: Yeah, this is just the beef intestine.

  • This is what we call a large bung, or the large intestine.

  • This end here is the equivalent of your appendix.

  • Claudia: OK.

  • James: So it's that part of the gut.

  • And along here, there's a small hole.

  • Claudia: Where is that?

  • James: It's there.

  • And that's where the large intestine

  • joins the small intestine. Claudia: OK.

  • James: All these casings you would see

  • being used for mortadella,

  • which is what this casing's for,

  • or salami, or chorizo.

  • The small intestine is typically used for salamis

  • for a narrower caliber. Claudia: Yeah.

  • James: But for haggis, that's that casing that we use.

  • Claudia: Haggis is quite wide.

  • James: Haggis is very wide.

  • Claudia: OK.

  • James: These are 454-gram haggis today,

  • but we do make haggis that are 2.3 kilos.

  • So they feed 10 people,

  • and they're very wide and very long.

  • Claudia: And is there a difference in taste

  • as well, you know, at the end?

  • James: Yes, very good question.

  • Yeah.

  • Like real cheese.

  • Mature cheese, there is a flavor that comes off the casing

  • that gives it a more traditional flavor.

  • Claudia: Oh, OK.

  • James: It's a more mature flavor.

  • Claudia: The freshly made puddings are punched

  • to let out the air as they cook.

  • They will stay in the oven for about an hour

  • and cook at 100 degrees Celsius.

  • Oh, wow, look at that!

  • There's some yellow water coming out.

  • Is this for the spices?

  • James: Oh, no, that's the,

  • that's the fat.

  • Claudia: OK.

  • So it's not water?

  • James: No. Well, some of it's water, and some of it's fat.

  • Claudia: OK, wow.

  • James: Because the casing's porous,

  • it's just any, it's some of the fat,

  • the moisture within the haggis seeping through. So...

  • Claudia: Oh, yeah.

  • Of course there is fat.

  • You know, you should save it.

  • You should make it, like, foie gras or something.

  • [James laughs]

  • James: All the flavors have been bound together

  • through the cooking process.

  • So you've got the lamb meat, the beef meat,

  • the oatmeal, the seasoning, the spices, the salt.

  • And then once that's now been filled into the casing,

  • the casing's now shrunk through the cooking process.

  • Claudia: It has shrunk so much.

  • They've just come back, like, half the size.

  • The haggis need about four hours to cool down

  • before going to get vacuum-packed.

  • But these are not ready to be eaten yet?

  • 'Cause they need to be heated up again

  • after they're in the bags?

  • James: That's what the consumer would do.

  • Claudia: All right.

  • James: But in the old days, when we used to

  • run the butcher shop,

  • back when my grandfather was running the business,

  • if there was ever a burst haggis,

  • the guys would take it away and eat it,

  • 'cause it's, right now,

  • the haggis at this stage is so tasty.

  • Claudia: Is it?

  • James: Oh, it's fresh and succulent and juicy.

  • Claudia: Oh, no! So we're losing out on so much

  • just by cooking it afterwards. James: No, no.

  • No, you have the same thing again when you heat it.

  • But right now,

  • there's nothing beats the taste of fresh haggis.

  • And the recipe has only changed once in 67 years.

  • We changed the blend of oatmeal.

  • My father received a letter

  • from a very well-renowned food critic called Derek Cooper,

  • and he said, "John, I think your haggis is fantastic,

  • but I think you could improve it.

  • You might want to consider changing the blend of oatmeal."

  • And Dad did.

  • Sent a haggis back to Derek,

  • and Derek replied, going, "Perfection!"

  • And we've never changed it since.

  • Haggis isn't Scottish.

  • Haggis in one way or another

  • exists in every culture around the world.

  • So a salami is a bit like a haggis,

  • morcilla is a bit like a haggis,

  • feijoada in a stew in Brazil is a bit like a haggis.

  • A haggis is a dish made with the bits and pieces

  • that aren't whole muscle meat.

  • So it's the original boil in the bag, you know,

  • because you're just using all these bits and pieces

  • and you make something that's very tasty

  • and very affordable.

  • Claudia: James isn't kidding about it

  • being in almost every culture.

  • In Czech cuisine they have jitrnice,

  • in Romanian cuisine they have tobă,

  • andouillette in France.

  • They're all made from bits and pieces of animal meat

  • and encased to boil.

  • Not only they are tasty,

  • but they're also an economical way

  • to use as much of the animal as possible.

  • Despite this style of cooking being everywhere,

  • Scots have a unique passion for haggis.

  • There is even one night a year devoted to haggis,

  • which acts as a sort of unofficial national holiday.

  • It's called Burns Night and is named after Robert Burns,

  • Scotland's national poet.

  • A Burns supper traditionally kicks off

  • with an address to the haggis.

  • To show you how seriously they take it,

  • I'm going to play James reciting the entire poem,

  • while I also show you a collection

  • of people across Scotland acting it out.

  • OK. Take it away, James!

  • James: So, "To a Haggis" by Robert Burns.

  • [audience applauding]

  • Claudia: Oh, wow. It's very soft.

  • James: Yeah.

  • Claudia: Smells quite good.

  • James: Love it.

  • Claudia: Wow.

  • James: It's meaty, it's fluffy.

  • It's got oats, it's peppery, it's nutty.

  • Claudia: And I like the spices as well.

  • It's not that overpowering.

  • James: I'm glad you like it. Claudia: It's good!

  • James: Don't be shy.

  • I'm not gonna be shy.

Claudia Romeo: We're in Edinburgh, Scotland,

Subtitles and vocabulary

Click the word to look it up Click the word to find further inforamtion about it