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  • - This is a big question.

  • Does everyone need to use a moisturizer?

  • No.

  • (upbeat music)

  • Hey guys, it's Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank,

  • cosmetic dermatologist here in New York City.

  • And today, we're gonna take a deep dive

  • into the comment section of the "Go to Bed with Me" series.

  • (upbeat music)

  • One of the most important steps in your nighttime

  • skincare routine is to remove any residue,

  • toxins or makeup on the skin.

  • You spend a lot time asleep hopefully,

  • and you wanna make sure the skin could breathe

  • with no residual residue.

  • I think the choice of cleansers really is very personal,

  • like any other aspect of skincare.

  • I think you have to find out

  • and determine whether you have oily skin,

  • dry skin, mixed skin,

  • and then you can really choice appropriately.

  • Obviously, creamier, milkier type of cleansers

  • are better for dry skin.

  • And you may want foaming cleansers or gel cleansers

  • for oily skin.

  • Hmm, Gunther the Penguin.

  • "Oh my god, yes.

  • "She washed her hands before going into skincare.

  • "Literally no celebrity has done this in their videos,

  • "but this step is crucial because imagine

  • "using those dirty hands."

  • Well I'd like to think that people are gonna clean

  • their hands before they wash their face.

  • It's usually kind of part of the whole process.

  • But yes, clean hands come before clean face.

  • Post Malone?

  • Post Malone's on this?

  • All right.

  • "That towel rag is making me cringe.

  • "Don't wipe it."

  • That's okay, as long as it's a soft towel and it's clean.

  • I mean, I wouldn't scrub your face with it,

  • but it's okay.

  • It's a basic part of a bathroom accoutrement,

  • so use it wisely.

  • And this next comment, "I don't need her skincare routine,

  • "I need her genes."

  • Well that may be true,

  • but a dermatologist can't give you that.

  • But you do need a skincare routine that is right for you.

  • All people are not created equal.

  • And not everyone is born with great skin.

  • Skincare routine and the quality of one's skin at birth

  • is like any issue of nature versus nurture.

  • It's really half and half.

  • You deal with the things that you were born with,

  • and the rest is up to how you treat your skin.

  • When discussing diet to patients,

  • particularly with things like acne

  • or other chronic skin conditions,

  • I always say that diet and nutrition,

  • they certainly affect the skin,

  • but they're not really the cause of the malady.

  • They contribute to it.

  • So if you have a problem,

  • you may wanna consider nutritional changes.

  • But like, stopping to eat strawberries

  • or eating excessive amounts of meat,

  • they're not really gonna cause your skin concern.

  • So ultimately, if you're having problems

  • finding something that works for you,

  • that's when you see a dermatologist.

  • TheCratsky

  • "I thought with cleansing oil,

  • "you gently massage it onto dry skin.

  • "Then wet hands and create an emulsion on the oily skin.

  • "Are you supposed to wipe off the oil before emulsifying?"

  • This a very complicated answer.

  • It doesn't have to be that scientific

  • when you're putting on a cleansing oil.

  • Honestly, I don't think it's gonna make

  • that much a difference in the end result of cleansing,

  • whether you put cleansing oil on dry or wet skin.

  • Ah, 20 02.

  • "Micellar water is not a toner!"

  • Actually, it could be a little bit of a toner.

  • Micellar water is kind of a fad that's come from Europe,

  • particularly from the French.

  • And it's a emulsification of oil beads

  • that are found in a soft type of water.

  • Often, this is not washed off the face

  • and is applied with something like a cotton swab.

  • If someone's gonna use micellar water,

  • I certainly recommend it for the morning cleanse.

  • I really don't think it's potent enough

  • to remove makeup at the end of the day.

  • I think people are still trying to figure out

  • exactly what toners do.

  • But most commonly, they're used after the cleansing step

  • to remove additional grime or makeup on the face.

  • They are not necessary for everyone.

  • But for that person that feels like they need

  • that extra step of cleansing to get rid of residue,

  • I think toners can be good

  • before serums or other moisturizers.

  • (upbeat music)

  • I don't think everyone needs to have a serum

  • in their skincare routine.

  • It really depends if there's something specific

  • that they wanna target,

  • whether it be dark spots or wrinkles or skin tightening.

  • An essence is kind of a combination

  • between a serum and a toner.

  • It tends to be even more lightweight,

  • and can have some active ingredients

  • and hydration as almost like a finishing product

  • of your skincare regimen.

  • All right, Michelle D.

  • "She kept saying moisturizer at the end there,

  • "but the last product she used was a serum."

  • The little funny face there.

  • "The healing ointment she used,

  • "she only used on her eyes and mouth.

  • "Is a serum enough?"

  • And this really depends.

  • Serums were originally created

  • as a form of an active ingredient

  • when you're actually trying to treat something.

  • Using a serum doesn't necessitate using a moisturizer

  • after it if that serum has humectants in it

  • that add additional moisturizer.

  • In our MDNA skincare line that we do with Madonna,

  • we have hyaluronic acid as a great hydrating aspect

  • in all of our serums.

  • Katuriaan.

  • "Just a PSA, charcoal in face masks, cleansers

  • "doesn't actually do anything.

  • "It's a marketing gimmick like collagen serums."

  • Well collagen serums is one thing,

  • but there's no question in my mind

  • that charcoal in face masks and cleansers

  • can be beneficial.

  • They are not detoxifying in the way

  • that people are trying to market charcoal

  • in ingestible products,

  • but there's no question that charcoal

  • can have absorptive abilities on removing grit

  • and debris on the skin.

  • I think face masks, particularly sheet masks

  • are kind of all the rage right now.

  • There's unnecessary controversy.

  • The fact of the matter is if it serves you

  • and you like it, then use it.

  • It doesn't have to be for everybody.

  • Give it a shot and see what you get.

  • Alfredo lopez.

  • "Anti-agjing," with a J, not an I,

  • "means sunblock, vitamin C serum and no foam to cleanse."

  • I think alfredo has got it right

  • because really, anti-aging

  • is about protection, using antioxidants.

  • Cleaning the face, I'm not sure with a foam or not.

  • You know, anti-aging can be very simple.

  • And it's about taking care of your skin,

  • protecting it and treating what's available

  • to make it better.

  • You know all dermatologists are gonna say

  • the best anti-aging secret is sunscreen.

  • If you actually protect yourself,

  • the damage will never come about in the first place.

  • (upbeat music)

  • So what are some of the common active ingredients?

  • Well the oldest and classic is retinol

  • which is a derivative of retin-A.

  • We have the alpha and beta hydroxy acids.

  • And over time, we're developing newer products

  • that have peptides in it with the building blocks

  • of collagen, epidermal growth factors,

  • and a lot of other newer type of products

  • that basically improve the regenerative capacity

  • of the skin.

  • Maddy.

  • "Everyone getting into skincare,

  • "do not use multiple active ingredients at a time.

  • "I damaged my skin doing so.

  • "My whole face was covered in big, dry patches

  • "and it would never stay hydrated

  • "and I don't even have a dry skin type.

  • "You can always use one active,

  • "like a vitamin C in the morning,

  • "and then a serum or something

  • "with an active ingredient at night"

  • This person is practically a dermatologist

  • and actually has a very good point.

  • Because you really have to be cautious

  • about the number of actives you're using on the skin.

  • First of all, they can counteract each other.

  • And they can also, cumulatively,

  • cause a lot of irritation and damage.

  • For example, retinol and vitamin C don't mix.

  • Vitamin C and beta hydroxy acids

  • could actually counteract each other.

  • So stick with one active serum for your skincare regimen.

  • Taylor Ryan.

  • "It's unnecessary to use vitamin C twice a day

  • "because your skin can only absorb

  • "so much vitamin C every 24 hours.

  • "You're essentially wasting product,

  • "especially if you are using Drunk Elephant vitamin C.

  • "Their formulation is potent enough

  • "that it stays in your skin for up to 72 hours

  • "after each application.

  • "It also works more efficiently

  • "to protect your skin if you use it in your morning routine

  • "instead of at night, but that you just don't have to do it,

  • "just a tip."

  • Most importantly, I don't think it's necessary

  • to use vitamin C more than once a day

  • because it can be potentially irritating.

  • Very products like vitamin C

  • which can be a potential irritant,

  • I usually tell people to use these products at night.

  • So if you do have any irritation, it could be gone

  • by morning and you'll use a moisturizer

  • to help counteract that.

  • Rocio Robledo.

  • "I tried using toothpaste as a spot treatment in the past,

  • "but that burned the (bleeps) out of my skin."

  • That's an interesting comment.

  • Toothpaste probably is not the best treatment for acne.

  • I think it does have kind of like an acidic, drying effect

  • which can be useful, but I think we have more modern

  • products out on the market now than toothpaste.

  • In general, when we give an acne regimen to patients,

  • we don't want them to necessarily

  • put it on the acne spots themselves

  • because once a pimple comes out,

  • it has to go through its process.

  • But there are specific ingredients like resorcinol

  • and salicylic acid that you can use for spot treatment.

  • (upbeat music)

  • Every function of the skin

  • depends on a water to oil balance,

  • and that's basically what moisturizers are providing.

  • Limau Gajah.

  • "Whoever said that there is no rule for eye cream,

  • "the person is wrong.

  • "I used to slather on a lot of eye cream in my younger days,

  • "but I can no longer do so because I have become

  • "very prone to getting chalazion."

  • I think there's an H in that.

  • "I've done two surgeries on my lids

  • "because of my eyecare routine.

  • "Your glands can get blocked if you use

  • "too much product on your eyes.

  • "Use eye creams by all means,

  • "but be careful not to put on too much."

  • This is an interesting comment

  • from a patient who gets chalazions

  • which is a clogging of glandular duct

  • in the eyelid.

  • I'm not so sure that the frequency of chalazions

  • is due to your particular eyecare routine.

  • Certainly, you don't wanna put on anything too occlusive

  • or thick, but I don't think a lot of the active ingredients

  • in eye creams out there would do such a thing.

  • There are certain sensitivities in thinness of skin.

  • The skin is a little different around the eyes

  • than it does elsewhere.

  • But the active ingredients and a lot of type of behaviors

  • that we're gonna do to improve the eyes

  • are gonna be similar to any other product in the skin.

  • "Oily skin is dehydrated skin,

  • "so sis needs a moisturizer."

  • I don't necessarily agree that oily skin is dehydrated skin.

  • Oily skin is a result of excessive sebum content

  • and change in biological activity of the skin

  • as compared to someone who has dehydrated skin,

  • which is pretty much an acquired condition.

  • This is a big question.

  • Does everyone need to use a moisturizer?

  • No.

  • This also could be a big marketing ploy.

  • If you have oily skin,

  • you don't necessarily need to moisturize it.

  • And if you are well-hydrated from the inside-out,

  • this is another reason why you may not need a moisturizer.

  • This is from Marcy Marie.

  • "If you guys use aloe vera, please make sure

  • "you get rid of the latex.

  • "It could have bad side effects for some people."

  • Latex can have bad side effects for some people,

  • but not everybody.

  • If you are not latex allergic or sensitive,

  • then there's really no problem with latex in the product.

  • It's a very ubiquitous agent used in medicine.

  • (upbeat music)

  • So contrary to popular belief,

  • oils may not be as moisturizing as other types of moisture

  • because oils sit very superficial on the top layers

  • of the skin.

  • They give kind of a shimmer and a glow,

  • but they're not actually penetrating deep enough

  • to give the type of moisture you may need.

  • "And oils should be the last to be applied

  • "on top of your moisturizer."

  • I think this is true, applying oils after a moisturizer,

  • if you want a little shimmer or shine in the skin,

  • but that may not give the most amount of moisture

  • that you need.

  • Marie L.

  • "FYI," that's for your information,

  • "oils are not really helpful to the skin.

  • "We all have natural oils on our skin

  • "and on our face anyway.

  • "Putting all that natural argon oil

  • "or other types apparently

  • "doesn't improve your skin at all."

  • This is yes and no.

  • Oils can be beneficial for people.

  • All moisturizers are basically a balance

  • between oil and water.

  • I think the terminology of natural products

  • in skincare is an important one

  • because we're striving for better, safer products.

  • But unfortunately, the term natural is very much a misnomer.

  • Most things we're trying to do is defy nature.

  • Nature like having acne or having dry skin.

  • So a natural product doesn't necessarily

  • mean a better product.

  • Isabel.

  • "Coconut oil is comedogenic.

  • "Also, do not use lemons or limes on your face.

  • "the acidity is too much."

  • Coconut oil can comedogenic.

  • If you don't have an acne problem and you like it,

  • I think it's a great product.

  • If you're someone that is very acne-prone,

  • you probably shouldn't be putting oil on your skin

  • in the first place, let alone coconut oil.

  • In terms of using lemons or limes on your face,

  • I would not say that's a great idea either.

  • They are very acidic.

  • People can develop allergies to them.

  • Probably not a good idea.

  • That's it for the comments today.

  • So if there's anything I can leave you with,

  • my one rule is the rule of KISS,

  • keep it simple stupid.

  • If you can't understand your own skincare routine,

  • it is not for you.

  • Keep it simple.

  • This has been "Derm Reacts".

  • Thanks for listening.

  • I'm Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank, cosmetic dermatologist.

  • And you can find out more about me on social media

  • @drpauljarrodfrank and online at pfrankmd.com, thanks.

  • (gentle music)

- This is a big question.

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