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  • - Dermatologists say you don't need special eye creams.

  • Use what you use on the rest of your face, it's just skin.

  • It's never just skin.

  • (upbeat music)

  • Hey guys, my name is Dr. Michelle Henry,

  • I am a board certified dermatologist

  • practicing in Manhattan, New York,

  • and I do the full range of dermatology,

  • so everything from skin checks to acne consults

  • to skin cancer surgery to Botox and fillers,

  • so I'm excited to be here with you guys today.

  • We're gonna take a deep dive

  • into the Go To Bed With Me comment section

  • and I am gonna answer some of your most burning questions.

  • (upbeat music)

  • So I don't have one specific cleansing method

  • that I recommend for all patients.

  • What's really important is that you know your skin type.

  • Let's say you have oily skin.

  • Now what's going to be critical is that you're removing

  • the oil, the dirt and debris from the day.

  • So you're gonna want a slightly stronger cleanser,

  • so maybe a gel or a foaming cleanser.

  • If you have dry skin,

  • I recommend something like mycellar water.

  • So mycellar water is a really gentle way

  • to cleanse the skin.

  • So really choosing your cleansing method

  • depends on your skin type.

  • So first ask yourself, what is my skin type?

  • And then choose your cleanser.

  • I like that you alternate your cleansers.

  • I'm going to try that.

  • I agree with her.

  • Our skin changes, the weather changes,

  • our micro environment changes from day to day,

  • and some days I have normal to combination skin.

  • Some days I'm dry, and some days I'm oily.

  • And I really do have to change my products

  • and my cleanser on a daily or weekly basis

  • based on my skin's needs.

  • So ask your skin, how am I feeling today?

  • And if you're feeling dry,

  • it might not be the day to use a really harsh exfoliant

  • or to use a really drying cleanser

  • with really strong, active ingredients.

  • Really listen to your skin.

  • Think about your microenvironment.

  • Think about the season of the year.

  • Think about how it's feeling,

  • and choose your products based on that.

  • Does anyone else cringe

  • at her rubbing and tugging so harshly?

  • Rubbing and tugging harshly is absolutely something

  • we do not want to do.

  • Our skin is a very delicate organ,

  • and in my opinion, one of our most important organs,

  • and so we really have to treat it delicately.

  • So when we're cleansing our skin,

  • even if you're wearing really heavy makeup,

  • make sure that you remove it gently

  • and make sure that you're using

  • the appropriate cleansers and makeup removers

  • so that the process is nice and smooth and seamless.

  • But tugging will not get your makeup off any faster.

  • It will not make your skin happier or healthier.

  • It will more likely cause little microtears,

  • causing your skin to become inflamed,

  • making your skin at risk for having infection,

  • and it really is not what we're looking for.

  • Next comment by Red Candy is,

  • she has on her jewelry while doing her skincare routine.

  • Rings and watches carry a large amount of bacteria.

  • No wonder her face gets easily inflamed.

  • Also, calls moisturizer crazy, but uses lemon on her face.

  • So, two things here.

  • Rings and watches, especially rings,

  • which are typically metal,

  • aren't really what we call fomite,

  • so they're not holding a lot of bacteria typically.

  • Of course, could they? Yes.

  • But typically one does not have to remove

  • a nice, smooth ring to tend to their skin.

  • Now if you're wearing a ring that's quite jagged,

  • I'm more concerned about it tearing the skin

  • than I am about it causing a bacterial infection.

  • The likelihood that she's getting bacteria from her ring

  • is teeny teeny tiny, so that's not a concern.

  • What I'm more concerned about is the lemon.

  • Using lemon on the face, lemon can be really drying.

  • It can actually be quite caustic to the skin.

  • Further, citrus fruits can cause something we call

  • phytophotodermatitis, and so they can sensitize the skin,

  • causing inflammation, and actually causing

  • a really, really dark hyperpigmentation.

  • So I really don't want her using that lemon

  • and then going out into the sun tomorrow.

  • That's more problematic to me than wearing her rings.

  • Exfoliators shouldn't be used as a second cleanse.

  • It should really be a cleansing oil to break up makeup,

  • followed by a gentle water-based cleanser

  • like a gel cleanser to remove remaining dirt and whatnot.

  • But whatever works for her, I guess.

  • She's gorgeous.

  • I don't agree with this.

  • It depends on the exfoliator.

  • So if you're wearing really heavy makeup,

  • an exfoliator is not going to be able to exfoliate the skin.

  • And why are we using exfoliators?

  • We want them to remove the dead skin.

  • Of course to remove dirt, oil, and debris,

  • but they're usually more effective at removing dead.

  • We want to first remove that barrier.

  • So if you're using a makeup that's heavy,

  • I'd prefer that you use an oil cleanser

  • or whatever cleanser you're using to remove your makeup,

  • and then use the appropriate exfoliant afterwards.

  • If you're starting out a new exfoliation regimen,

  • I always recommend no more than once or twice a week,

  • and gradually work your way up.

  • It also depends on if you're using physical

  • or chemical exfoliation.

  • So physical exfoliation or manual exfoliation,

  • which is using something like a spin brush

  • or using something that has beads in it

  • or even sugar granules,

  • something that's manually exfoliating,

  • is oftentimes a little bit harsher

  • than using a chemical exfoliant.

  • Whatever you do, it's based on your skin type,

  • start out one to two times a week,

  • and gradually work your way up based on your tolerance.

  • Foam cleanser can't remove makeup completely

  • and they all feel light on the skin.

  • It's foam.

  • I don't necessarily agree with this either.

  • So it depends on the type of makeup.

  • So if you're wearing your daily makeup,

  • a really robust foam cleanser,

  • especially foam cleanser that has ingredients like

  • glycolic acid or salicylic acid,

  • which are really great at exfoliating

  • and breaking down dirt, oil, and debris,

  • can remove makeup from the skin.

  • If it's for daily makeup, a foam cleanser,

  • the appropriate foam cleanser can work

  • and can give you an efficient cleanse.

  • (upbeat music)

  • A serum is typically in the treatment phase

  • of your skincare regimen.

  • It's a lightweight product that's pact

  • with active ingredients.

  • So you choose your serum based on your skin concern.

  • So whether that is brightening, fine lines,

  • or dark spots, a serum will help target

  • that specific concern.

  • A serum and essence, they may sound similar

  • but they are quite different.

  • A serum typically has a higher concentration

  • of active ingredients

  • and it's a little bit heavier,

  • whereas an essence has active ingredients

  • but it's a little bit lighter

  • and it's a little bit more hydrating.

  • So let's say you're someone who has more sensitive skin,

  • you might want to start with an essence first.

  • If you're someone who has a little bit more robust skin,

  • you're less sensitive,

  • then the serum might be the answer for you.

  • So the next comment is by Melissa MJ,

  • and she says, she's doing oils first, then serums, no.

  • Melissa, you're right.

  • So, an oil is typically occlusive.

  • And so that means that it doesn't allow things to penetrate,

  • it doesn't allow water to come out,

  • nor does it let water or other ingredients

  • to cross it to get in.

  • And so if you're using an oil first on your skin

  • and applying your serum next, you're wasting your serum,

  • it's not able to penetrate.

  • I'm genuinely interested to see how well

  • the next generation will age.

  • Given what we know about retinol

  • and other skincare ingredients,

  • will there be lots of 50-something-year-old people

  • walking around with baby soft, unlined skin?

  • I certainly hope so.

  • I have been using retinol for as long as I can remember.

  • I actually use it twice a day,

  • which is a little bit naughty,

  • but I absolutely love it.

  • And in seeing my patients and practicing for many years,

  • it is changing skincare.

  • We look at a lot of celebrities that we love

  • and we wonder why they look so fantastic,

  • and I think a big part of it is excellent skincare,

  • which using a retinol is absolutely the gold standard

  • and should be a part of that.

  • The next comment is by Maddy O'Toole.

  • You only need two to three drops of serum.

  • Well Maddy, this is not correct.

  • Everyone's different.

  • Some faces are more generous than other faces.

  • Some serums are a little bit thicker

  • or a little bit thinner,

  • and so you know, there is no strict rule

  • that you need two to three drops.

  • Frankly, I need more than two to three drops.

  • It just depends on the nature of the serum and your skin.

  • What we're looking for is that you're making

  • a thin, even layer.

  • When you're putting on serum, it's not drippy.

  • It's just a thin, even layer.

  • You should allow your skin to absorb it,

  • and that can be anywhere from two to six drops, who knows.

  • How do you know if you're using too much of a product?

  • Your skin will tell you.

  • If you're irritated,

  • if you feel that your other products aren't working

  • because you now have 14 products

  • and your moisturizer can't get in.

  • So listen to your skin.

  • If you're using too many active ingredients,

  • one of the top things I see in my office

  • is that when patients have a skin concern,

  • they turn into little mad scientists

  • and they're using everything

  • and they're trying to improve their skin,

  • and they often get irritation.

  • So I think irritation is one of the top key indicators

  • that you're using too many products.

  • So the next comment is, you can see

  • that the vitamin C serum has gone bad.

  • That's why she's got a yellow tint.

  • Well, this is incorrect.

  • Vitamin C serum typically has a yellow

  • kind of golden hue, so you really can't tell

  • that it's gone bad by looking at it.

  • If it smells bad, then maybe you could tell,

  • but by looking at it, it's really difficult to tell.

  • When you're buying a vitamin C serum,

  • what's key is that the bottle should really be opaque,

  • because vitamin C can be quite unstable.

  • And so we take lots of precautions

  • and lots of steps to stabilize,

  • and because it's sensitive to light,

  • we typically put it in an opaque bottle.

  • The average shelf life, you know, it's hard

  • because different products have different ingredients.

  • Some of them have more water.

  • Some of them have more oil.

  • Things to look for, if your products are separating,

  • that's a concern.

  • Typically you get about a year with your products.

  • Things that have more water in them

  • you get closer to nine months.

  • But typically at about a year

  • you're safe with most products.

  • Once products have gone beyond their shelf life,

  • A, they're not as effective,

  • and B, we start to worry a little bit about safety.

  • Once those preservatives aren't working

  • in the way they're intended to work,

  • then you can have bacterial overgrowth in your creams

  • or your moisturizers or your cleanser,

  • so it's really important that you abide

  • by those expiration dates.

  • (upbeat music)

  • So some of the most common active ingredients are

  • retinol is a big favorite,

  • vitamin C is a huge favorite,

  • niacinamide is a huge favorite,

  • hyaluronic acid is really popular.

  • Those are really some of our

  • gold standard active ingredients.

  • The next comment is by Jose Lopez.

  • You should never mix tretinoin with vitamin C.

  • Well Jose, I love your passion.

  • He's right.

  • Vitamin C is a really labile ingredient,

  • and so we do have some variations of vitamin C

  • that are a little bit more stable

  • and the chemists are busy in the lab

  • making more and more stable variants of vitamin C,

  • but the most common version of vitamin C

  • that we use in beauty products is a little bit unstable.

  • You will see on the market some products

  • that have a vitamin C and a Retin-A in them

  • and you wonder how could this be?

  • And that's because there are some variants

  • of vitamin C that are a little bit more stable,

  • but the average vitamin C

  • that we see in most beauty products

  • we cannot mix with acidic ingredients

  • like tretinoin, retinoic acid.

  • I know that a lot of people and a lot of my patients

  • will mix two products together to save time.

  • But what we wanna make sure we're doing

  • is getting the full potency

  • and full efficacy from our products.

  • And sometimes if we're mixing them,

  • we're inactivating them.

  • So we have to be really smart

  • about what products we mix.

  • If we're mixing moisturizers

  • which have more just hydrating ingredients

  • like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, aloe vera,

  • oftentimes those are very safe to mix and layer.

  • But if you're mixing ingredients

  • that have very strong active,

  • you can either inactivate them

  • or cause really massive irritation.

  • Another tip is if you wanna use multiple active ingredients

  • is to either alternate them,

  • so alternate day to day, or morning and night.

  • For instance, I use a vitamin C serum in the morning

  • and I use my retinol at night

  • because mixing them together makes them

  • a little bit less efficacious.

  • But if you want to get the benefit from both,

  • alternating or doing an a.m., p.m. regimen is perfect.

  • So the next comment is,

  • I have sensitive skin.

  • Should I use anti-aging products like retinol?

  • I don't think so.

  • Then what should I use for?

  • If you have sensitive skin, can you use a retinol?

  • Absolutely, it's just about finding

  • the right retinol for you.

  • So retinol products come in varying concentrations,

  • so they can oftentimes it can be as low as 0.02%

  • all the way up to 1%.

  • And so you really have to choose the percentage

  • that works best for you.

  • And a nice cheat that I use in the office

  • is the sandwich method.

  • So if you're using a retinol, if you think

  • that you're very sensitive,

  • start out with the lowest concentration and sandwich it.

  • So you put your moisturizer on first,

  • you put your retinol on next,

  • and then you put your moisturizer on top of it,

  • and that really helps to hydrate the skin,

  • give you a nice intact skin barrier

  • so you're less prone to irritation, inflammation,

  • but still allows you to get all of those good,

  • active ingredients, that stimulation of collagen,

  • that reduction of pigment

  • that we absolutely love in retinols.

  • (upbeat music)

  • What a moisturizer does is that it waterproofs our skin

  • and it keeps it healthy, it keeps the good stuff in

  • and the bad stuff out.

  • And so it's critical that no matter your skin type,

  • whether you're dry, oily, or combination,

  • that you're using the appropriate moisturizer

  • to keep your skin functioning optimally and healthy.

  • So the next comment is, I have normal skin

  • and use coconut oil as my moisturizer.

  • So as much as we love coconut oil, it's very popular,

  • I really don't recommend using it on the face.

  • Coconut oil is quite comedogenic,

  • and that means it can clog your pores.

  • If you're using coconut oil,

  • it's okay to use it on the body,

  • it's okay to use is on the body

  • for those with eczema because it's a slight antiseptic.

  • However, on the face, absolutely not.

  • When patients come into the office

  • and they have a new onset of blackheads and whiteheads,

  • my first question is are you using coconut oil.

  • And the answer is often yes.

  • The next question is by Tosheatower.

  • Waaahh, exfoliates everyday with dry skin

  • and then only a facial oil?

  • No moisturizer?

  • I understand your distress (laughs).

  • So you have to be quite careful.

  • If you have dry, sensitive skin,

  • exfoliating can be quite tough.

  • But again what's critical is knowing your skin,

  • listening to your skin.

  • Your skin will tell you if what you're doing is too harsh.

  • This person with dry skin exfoliating everyday

  • seems like it could be a bit much.

  • I imagine that they might

  • have a little bit of redness and inflammation.

  • But it depends again on how you're exfoliating.

  • Now if you're using a really gentle exfoliant,

  • maybe something with strawberry enzyme

  • or papaya enzyme, which is not very caustic,

  • even some of the more sensitive skin with time

  • can tolerate that everyday.

  • And now onto the next part.

  • A face oil and a moisturizer.

  • Again, this depends on your skin type.

  • So an oil is different from a moisturizer.

  • An oil is an occlusive,

  • so an oil is going to lock in moisture,

  • but it's not going to give you moisture,

  • whereas a moisturizer is going to give you moisture

  • and it's going to draw in water to the skin.

  • So it depends on your skin type.

  • If you're using an oil on damp skin,

  • it's locking in moisture, that's exactly what we want.

  • However, if you're very dry and you're using this oil

  • and you realize that you're dry throughout the day,

  • then an oil is likely not sufficient.

  • So for someone who's dry throughout the day,

  • I would say use your moisturizer first

  • to give you that moisture,

  • and then use your oil on top to lock it in.

  • So again it depends on your skin type,

  • your environment, and kind of what activities

  • you're doing throughout the day.

  • Dermatologists say you don't need special eye creams.

  • Use what you use on the rest of your face.

  • It's just skin.

  • It's never just skin.

  • Skin is very important.

  • So you know, I'm a fan of eye creams.

  • I know there are a lot of people who believe

  • that eye creams are just moisturizers in a small bottle.

  • I don't subscribe to that.

  • I think that there's a lot in that field

  • that we're creating some really great products

  • that are really safe for the eyes.

  • So why I like eye creams

  • is because they're tested to be used around the eyes.

  • I see a lot of irritation around the eyes.

  • I see a lot of patients coming in with redness,

  • dark circles from irritation

  • or from using the wrong products,

  • so I really do like eye creams

  • because it gives us that additional level of safety.

  • So it's not just skin.

  • Use the appropriate creams in the appropriate area

  • to make sure that you're keeping your skin

  • safe and happy and healthy.

  • (upbeat music)

  • So moving on to what I believe

  • the last step in your routine should be, oils.

  • Not everyone needs an oil,

  • but if you like to, you can incorporate it,

  • and it really doesn't matter your skin type.

  • So I have a lot of patients that come in and say

  • I have oily skin, I can't use an oil.

  • Or if I have dry skin I absolutely must use an oil.

  • There's a lot of variation.

  • It depends on the type of oil that you're using.

  • So some oils are a little bit lighter

  • and they function more like the natural oils in our skin.

  • Oils like jojoba oil.

  • Jojoba oil is a really great oil.

  • You can use independent of your skin type.

  • There are a lot of oils that are heavier,

  • so some will use olive oil on your skin.

  • I do like oils like argon oil,

  • which is a little bit heavier than jojoba oil.

  • So it depends on your skin type.

  • Everyone can use oils.

  • Everyone just can't use the same oils,

  • so you have to find the right oil for you.

  • If you're someone who doesn't want to use a moisturizer,

  • or let's say you're someone

  • who's a little bit oilier,

  • so then you're going to use your oil

  • immediately after cleansing your skin.

  • So you're gonna cleanse your skin, you're gonna pat dry

  • so you still have a little bit of moisture there,

  • and then you're gonna lock that moisture in with your oil.

  • So I am a fan of oils.

  • You just have to use them appropriately.

  • Why does oil always peel off?

  • What am I doing wrong?

  • Likely, you mean, why does oil often build up.

  • And if it's building up on you,

  • it might mean that the oil is not for you.

  • That's an indicator that likely it's too heavy,

  • it's not penetrating,

  • it's not allowing other products to penetrate,

  • you're not washing it off appropriately.

  • So the appropriate oil for your skin

  • should really absorb easily.

  • It shouldn't leave a greasy buildup or a greasy residue.

  • So if you're noticing greasy residue or greasy buildup,

  • that is not the oil for you.

  • It's entirely too heavy.

  • Next comment.

  • Essential oils can be irritating to your skin,

  • and they are not recommended

  • because it has an aromatic scent,

  • which is often used to make yourself smell good.

  • Essential oils can actually, they can be quite powerful

  • and they can be quite irritating.

  • I have a lot of patients that come in using

  • pure tea tree oil on their face

  • and they're usually seeing me because now they're inflamed

  • and they have hyper pigmentation.

  • So you have to be really careful.

  • Oftentimes if you're using an essential oil,

  • I often like to dilute it in what we call a carrier oil.

  • Something to protect your skin,

  • to dilute the product so you're not as inflamed.

  • But you know there's a huge trend

  • in using things that are natural.

  • Natural things can also be a little bit

  • dangerous for the skin,

  • so you have to be really careful.

  • So using a pure, undiluted essential oil

  • can be dangerous, so you have to be careful

  • when you're using them.

  • So that was the last comment.

  • Overall, my skincare philosophy really is less is more.

  • You don't need 35 steps

  • to have beautiful, healthy skin.

  • You don't have to spend a ton of money

  • to have beautiful, healthy skin.

  • Really invest in a few quality products and stick to it.

  • Consistency is absolutely key.

  • So this has been Derm Reacts,

  • a new series by Harper's Bazaar,

  • straight from our Go To Bed With Me comments section.

  • So subscribe below, give it a big thumb's up,

  • leave all of your burning questions below

  • and maybe I'll be back to answer even more questions.

  • If you have immediate questions for me,

  • you can find me at Dr. Michelle Henry on Instagram.

  • If you wanna see me in the office,

  • you can see me here in Manhattan

  • at the Laser and Skin Surgery of New York.

  • (upbeat music)

- Dermatologists say you don't need special eye creams.

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