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  • [THUNDER]

  • [DRUMMING]

  • [WOMAN SPEAKING UNANGAM TUNUU LANGUAGE]

  • - THE STORY THAT I'M GOING TO SHARE RIGHT NOW IS A STORY

  • THAT BELONGS TO OUR PLACE AS OPPOSED TO BELONGING TO ANY

  • ONE PERSON.

  • [SPEAKING UNANGAM TUNUU]

  • TRADITIONALLY, WHEN WE HAVE A STORY OF THIS NATURE,

  • IT DOESN'T BEGIN WITH "ONCE UPON A TIME."

  • IT BEGINS WITH THE PHRASE "TANAM AWAA," AND "TANAM AWAA"

  • MEANS "OUR COUNTRY'S WORK."

  • [SPEAKING UNANGAM TUNUU]

  • THE FIRST TIME THAT OUR PEOPLE HAD ANY INTERACTION WITH THIS

  • ISLAND CAME IN THE FORM OF AN ALEUT HUNTER, AND HIS NAME

  • WAS IG,ADAGAX,.

  • IG,ADAGAX, WAS OUT IN HIS SINGLE HATCHED IQYAX, ON HIS OWN WHEN

  • HE WAS SWEPT AWAY IN A STORM AWAY FROM THE SHORELINES

  • OF THE ISLANDS OF HIS VILLAGE.

  • HE CAME FROM WHAT WE NOW CALL

  • THE ALEUTIAN CHAIN, ISLANDS

  • THAT STRETCH FROM ALASKA

  • TO RUSSIA ON THE EDGE

  • OF THE BERING SEA.

  • HE TRAVELED A LONG PERIOD OF TIME ON HIS OWN, AND HE ENDED

  • UP ON THIS ISLAND.

  • HE CAME AND HE STAYED LONG ENOUGH TO SEE HOW LIFE EXISTED

  • HERE, LONG ENOUGH TO SEE THAT THERE WERE FUR SEALS HERE,

  • THAT THERE WERE SEA OTTERS HERE, THAT THERE WERE MANY SEA

  • BIRDS HERE.

  • SO HE PROBABLY STAYED A WHOLE YEAR, ONE WHOLE CYCLE.

  • IG,ADAGAX, TOLD THE STORY TO HIS BROTHER, TO HIS SON, TO HIS

  • RELATIVES, AND HE SAID THAT HE ALWAYS WANTED TO COME BACK.

  • IG,ADAGAX, WANTED TO COME BACK, AND HE DID, THROUGH US,

  • BY US BEING HERE, AND BEING THAT WE ARE A PEOPLE THAT LIVE

  • GENERATIONALLY, YOU CARRY ON WHAT HAS BEEN PASSED DOWN FROM

  • PEOPLE BEFORE YOU.

  • WE HAD TO COME, IF NOT ONLY TO FULFILL IG,ADAGAX,'S NEEDS,

  • BUT ALSO TO PROTECT THE FUR SEAL.

  • WE HAVE HAD TO BE KEEPERS OF THE SEALS AND MAKE SURE THAT

  • THEY CONTINUE TO LIVE HERE BECAUSE IF THE FUR SEALS

  • AREN'T HERE, THEN WE WON'T BE, EITHER.

  • - [CHATTER]

  • [HORN BLOWS]

  • - WHOO!

  • - [CHEERING]

  • - SO WHO ARE WE, THE PEOPLE OF THE SEAL?

  • NOW WE'RE AMERICAN CITIZENS, ALASKAN NATIVES.

  • - GO, GO, GO, GO!

  • - MANY OF US STILL BEAR OUR RUSSIAN HERITAGE IN OUR NAMES,

  • LIKE MERCULIEF, ZACHAROF, MELOVIDOV, BOURDUKOFSKY, AND MY

  • LAST NAME, LESTENKOF.

  • AND WE'RE ALEUTS, OR AS WE CALL OURSELVES IN OUR OWN

  • LANGUAGE, UNANGAN, NATIVES OF THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS AND

  • OF A CULTURE THAT STRETCHES BACK AT LEAST 9,000 YEARS.

  • WHO WE ARE WEAVES TOGETHER AT LEAST 3 VERY

  • DIFFERENT TRADITIONS.

  • OURS IS A STORY OF SURVIVAL, OF ADAPTATION, AND A CONSTANT

  • THREAT OF EXTINCTION.

  • WHAT'S HAPPENING ON THESE REMOTE ISLANDS IS BEING

  • REPEATED ALL OVER THE WORLD.

  • NATIVE CULTURES AND NATIVE SPECIES ARE FIGHTING TO KEEP

  • FROM DISAPPEARING.

  • MY NAME IS AQUILINA DEBBIE LESTENKOF.

  • WHEN I WAS LITTLE, GROWING UP, I JUST REMEMBER THAT ALL THE

  • ELDERS CALLED ME BY AQUILINA, AND FOR THEM IT WAS RESPECTING

  • MY BAPTISM IN THE ORTHODOX CHURCH.

  • DEBBIE MEANS BUMBLEBEE, SO MY ALEUT NAME IS AANASNAADAX,,

  • AND AANASNAADAX, TRANSLATES INTO ENGLISH AS BUMBLEBEE.

  • THIS IS SAINT PAUL ISLAND.

  • THIS IS WHERE I LIVE.

  • PRESENTLY WE HAVE ABOUT 450 PEOPLE RESIDING ON

  • SAINT PAUL ISLAND.

  • PEOPLE COME AND THEY SAY, "OH, THAT'S IN THE MIDDLE

  • OF NOWHERE," BUT REALLY, IT'S IN THE MIDDLE OF IT ALL.

  • SAINT PAUL ISLAND AND ITS SISTER ISLAND SAINT GEORGE ARE

  • CALLED THE PRIBILOF ISLANDS.

  • THEY ARE 300 MILES WEST OF THE MAINLAND OF ALASKA, 250 MILES

  • NORTH OF THE ALEUTIAN CHAIN, AND WAY CLOSER TO RUSSIA THAN

  • TO ALASKA'S STATE CAPITAL IN JUNEAU.

  • WE'RE DRIVING ON MAIN STREET, WHAT WOULD BE CONSIDERED MAIN

  • STREET DOWNTOWN, AND IT'S NOT WHAT IT WAS WHEN I

  • WAS YOUNGER.

  • WE SEE BUILDINGS THAT ARE BOARDED UP.

  • WE HAVE A HISTORIC HOTEL THAT IS NOW BOARDED UP AND NO

  • LONGER USED, AND WE HAVE WHAT WAS AN OLD GOVERNMENT OFFICE

  • WHEN THE GOVERNMENT MANAGED THE COMMERCIAL FUR SEAL

  • INDUSTRY, AND IT'S ALL BOARDED UP.

  • FOR ALMOST 200 YEARS, WE UNANGAN PEOPLE HAVE HAD OUR

  • LIVES RULED BY ONE THING: THE COMMERCIAL HARVEST OF FUR

  • SEALS TO MAKE FUR COATS.

  • IT WAS AN INDUSTRY WORTH MILLIONS AND MILLIONS

  • OF DOLLARS, BUT IT ALL CAME TO A CRASHING HALT IN 1983.

  • THAT'S WHEN PRESSURE FROM ANIMAL RIGHTS GROUPS LED THE

  • UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT TO PUT AN END TO THE COMMERCIAL

  • HARVEST OF FUR SEALS.

  • WHAT WAS MEANT TO PROTECT THE FUR SEALS INSTEAD LED TO

  • THE FUR SEALS BEING IGNORED.

  • [FUR SEALS GRUNTING]

  • SOMEONE ONCE SAID THAT THE PRIBILOF ISLANDS ARE

  • A MICROCOSM.

  • THIS IS A PLACE WHERE WE CAN LOOK AT HUMAN INTERACTIONS

  • WITH THE PLANET IN GENERAL.

  • WHERE ARE WE GOING TO GO NEXT?

  • I CO-DIRECT THE ECOSYSTEM CONSERVATION OFFICE

  • FOR THE ALEUT COMMUNITY OF SAINT PAUL ISLAND'S

  • TRIBAL GOVERNMENT.

  • IT IS OUR RESPONSIBILITY TO ENSURE THAT NOT ONLY

  • THE ENVIRONMENT BUT ALL THE SPECIES THAT HAVE PROVIDED

  • FOR OUR PEOPLE CONTINUE TO EXIST IN ORDER THAT WE AND OUR

  • CULTURE CONTINUE TO EXIST.

  • [FUR SEALS GRUNTING]

  • MY FIRST MEMORIES OF THE FUR SEALS ARE KIND OF LIKE YOUR

  • VERY BEST FRIEND.

  • YOU DON'T REMEMBER WHEN YOUR FRIENDSHIP STARTED.

  • THE SOUNDS OF THE FUR SEALS HAVE HAD TO BE EMBEDDED

  • IN MY MEMORY.

  • EVEN WHEN THEY LEAVE HERE IN THE WINTER, THE SOUNDS ARE

  • STILL WITH ME.

  • [FUR SEALS GRUNTING]

  • WE CAN ONLY FATHOM HOW LONG THESE ISLANDS HAVE BEEN HERE,

  • AND THE FUR SEALS, THEY'VE BEEN HERE MANY, MANY YEARS

  • BEFORE HUMANS HAVE COME TO THE PRIBILOF ISLANDS.

  • FUR SEALS ARE MIGRATORY.

  • THEY SPEND THE WINTERS OUT AT SEA.

  • THEY DON'T COME BACK ASHORE TILL LATE SPRING.

  • IN THE MIDDLE OF WINTER, THE ROOKERIES ARE EMPTY.

  • YOU CAN WALK OUT AND YOU CAN SMELL THEIR PRESENCE.

  • THEN BY MARCH, THE BULL SEALS START TO COME.

  • THEY HANG AROUND ON THE SHORES.

  • AND IN THE SUMMER, WE HAVE AN INCREASE OF SOUNDS, OF SMELLS,

  • KIND OF LIKE TURNING UP THE VOLUME.

  • [FUR SEALS BARKING LOUDLY]

  • NEVER A DULL MOMENT.

  • RIGHT NOW IT'S FALL.

  • THE CHILDREN ARE BACK AT SCHOOL, AND THE FUR SEAL PUPS

  • ARE IN SWIMMING SCHOOL.

  • THEY DO HAVE TO LEARN TO SWIM.

  • THEY WEREN'T BORN KNOWING HOW TO SWIM, OTHER THAN

  • HAVING FLIPPERS.

  • PEOPLE MAY THINK THAT IT IS THE SAME, BUT IT IS DIFFERENT

  • EVERY YEAR.

  • IT'S NOT SOMETHING YOU GROW TIRED OF.

  • IT IS SOMETHING THAT YOU LOOK FORWARD TO AND KNOW THAT

  • YOU ARE HOME.

  • WHEN THEY COME HOME, YOU'RE HOME, TOO.

  • BUT HOW DID THE HOME OF THE FUR SEALS BECOME OUR HOME?

  • THESE WIND-SWEPT, TREELESS ISLANDS, SEEMINGLY

  • UNINHABITABLE, SURROUNDED BY THE COLD, ROUGH WATERS

  • OF THE BERING SEA.

  • THE TATTOO ON MY FACE TELLS THE STORY ABOUT THE JOURNEY

  • OUR ANCESTORS TOOK TO GET HERE.

  • THE CURVES REPRESENT FUR SEALS, AND THE CIRCLES

  • REPRESENT THE 5 GENERATIONS OF MY FAMILY THAT LIVED ON THESE

  • UNANGAN ISLANDS.

  • ALASKA IS HOME TO OVER 200 FEDERALLY RECOGNIZED TRIBES

  • SPEAKING 22 UNIQUE DIALECTS.

  • THE UNANGAN PEOPLE COME FROM THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS, AND WE

  • HAVE AT LEAST 3 DIALECTS.

  • THE FIRST OF MY UNANGAN RELATIVES THAT SHOWS UP

  • IN THE WRITTEN RECORD

  • IS MY GREAT-GREAT- GRANDMOTHER NEDEZHDA.

  • I KNOW THAT SHE WAS BORN ON ATKA AND THAT SHE HAD LIVED

  • PART OF HER LIFE ON BERING AND ATTU ISLANDS.

  • - UNANGAN CULTURE WAS SHAPED BY A TREMENDOUS RANGE OF BOTH

  • CHALLENGES AS WELL AS OPPORTUNITIES, AND RESPONDING

  • TO AN EXTRAORDINARILY DYNAMIC ENVIRONMENT

  • OVER THE SPACE OF 9,000 YEARS LED UNANGAN PEOPLE

  • TO DEVELOP AN AMAZING ARRAY OF TECHNOLOGICAL ADAPTATIONS,

  • INCLUDING, OF COURSE, THE FAMOUS KAYAK, WHICH WAS

  • THE FASTEST VESSEL IN THE WORLD.

  • I MEAN, THOSE THINGS COULD DO 12 KNOTS.

  • BEAUTIFULLY ENGINEERED TO RESPOND TO

  • THE MARINE ENVIRONMENT.

  • WEAPONRY SUPERBLY ADAPTED FOR GETTING SEA MAMMALS.

  • A DIFFERENT STYLE OF POINT WAS DESIGNED FOR EVERY TYPE

  • OF SEA MAMMAL.

  • GUTSKIN CLOTHING SEWED TOGETHER WITH BONE NEEDLES

  • SO FINE THAT SOME OF THE HOLES WERE BARELY AS BIG AS

  • A HUMAN HAIR.

  • A WATERPROOF STITCH WAS DEVELOPED TO HOLD THESE

  • GUTSKIN GARMENTS TOGETHER.

  • SO AN AMAZING ARRAY OF GADGETRY IS REFLECTED

  • IN THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL RECORD.

  • [MAN SINGING IN UNANGAM TUNUU]

  • - THAT KNOWLEDGE, PASSED DOWN THROUGH THE GENERATIONS,

  • IS FAST DISAPPEARING.

  • TODAY ONLY A HANDFUL OF PEOPLE KNOW HOW TO GET A MEAL FROM

  • A TIDE POOL.

  • VINCE TUTIAKOFF IS ONE OF THEM.

  • - WHERE WE'RE WALKING, THOUSANDS OF YEARS AGO,

  • THE ALEUTS WERE OUT HERE PICKING THEIR BREAKFAST

  • AND THEIR LUNCH.

  • GREEN KELP--THEY'D COLLECT THAT TO COOK WITH THEIR FISH.

  • THEY'D FISH OFF THESE LITTLE EDDIES IN HERE AND GET POGIES,

  • BLACK BASS, SEA EGGS, BIDARKIES, BULLHEADS EVEN.

  • HUNTING IN THEIR LITTLE BOATS ALONG THE EDGES

  • FOR SEAL, SEA LION.

  • - MM-HMM. SO, WHAT YOU'RE SAYING IS WE'RE GOING TO

  • THE UNANGAN SUPERMARKET. HA HA HA!

  • - UNAGAN SUPERMARKET. YEAH, THAT'S IT.

  • WATCH WHERE YOU'RE WALKING.

  • DON'T STEP ON OUR BREAKFAST OR LUNCH HERE.

  • [BOTH CHUCKLE]

  • RIGHT NOW THE SEA URCHINS SHOULD START TO BE FILLING UP,

  • AND THEY'LL HAVE A LOT OF EGGS IN THEM.

  • A LOT OF PROTEIN AND IRON.

  • AND THERE IT IS.

  • THERE ARE SOME EGGS RIGHT THERE.

  • AND THEY'D SCOOP THEM OUT JUST LIKE THAT AND

  • OF COURSE EAT THEM.

  • CARVE THIS GUY.

  • THIS IS A TONGUE HERE.

  • - IS THAT EDIBLE, TOO?

  • - YES. THAT'S THE BEST PART.

  • THAT'S GOOD EATING THERE.

  • IF IT WASN'T FOR THE RED TIDE, WE'D HAVE A DINNER.

  • - YEAH.

  • - HERE'S THE GRASS THAT ALEUTS FED TO THE RUSSIANS WHEN THEY FIRST GOT HERE.

  • LOT OF THEM HAD SCURVY OR SOME SORT OF SICKNESS.

  • THERE WAS NO DOCTORS HERE, EITHER, YOU KNOW, FOR YEARS.

  • DIDN'T HAVE A CLINIC HERE.

  • - YEAH.

  • - GONNA CUT ONE OFF.

  • AND WHAT THEY DO IS CHOP IT UP AND BOIL IT,

  • AND WHAT COMES OUT OF THE LEAVES AND OUT OF THE VINES,

  • THEY DRINK IT.

  • IT'S LIKE A TEA.

  • TRY ONE OF THESE HERE. THEY'RE--ONCE YOU CHEW ON THEM--

  • YOU'LL FIND IT VERY BITTER.

  • - IT'S KIND OF LIKE IF YOU LEFT SOME SOAP

  • AND YOU TASTED IT, THAT'S THE BITTER.

  • - YEAH.

  • SAVED A LOT OF RUSSIANS' LIVES, AND MAYBE THEY SHOULDN'T HAVE.

  • OR THERE'D PROBABLY BE MORE OF US AROUND TODAY.

  • [LAUGHTER]

  • - [MAN SINGING IN UNANGAM TUNUU]

  • - ONE OF THOSE RUSSIANS SAVED WAS MY GREAT-GREAT-GRANDFATHER

  • MIKHAIL LESTENKOF.

  • HE BEGINS THE RUSSIAN CHAPTER OF MY FAMILY HISTORY.

  • MIKHAIL WAS BORN DURING THE REIGN OF CATHERINE THE GREAT,

  • AT A TIME WHEN THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE

  • WAS GROWING RICHER THROUGH THE FUR TRADE.

  • MIKHAIL WAS ONE OF HUNDREDS OF YOUNG RUSSIAN MEN

  • CALLED PROMYSHLENNIKI.

  • THEY WERE TRAPPERS AND TRADERS

  • WHO WERE THE BACKBONE OF THIS SOFT GOLD RUSH.

  • - THE FIRST RUSSIANS WHO CAME TO ALASKA AND THE ALEUTIAN CHAIN

  • WERE MARINE MAMMAL HUNTERS,

  • AND MOSTLY WHAT ATTRACTED THEM WAS THE SEA OTTER,

  • BECAUSE SEA OTTERS BROUGHT EXCEEDINGLY HIGH PRICES.

  • SO THAT WAS WORTH THE RISKS.

  • - MIKHAIL TRAVELED OVER LAND THOUSANDS OF MILES...

  • THEN HE SET SAIL FOR BERING ISLAND,

  • WHERE HE FIRST ENCOUNTERED THE UNANGAN.

  • - WHAT THE RUSSIANS FOUND WERE 30,000 HIGHLY ORGANIZED,

  • SUPERBLY ADAPTED MARINE HUNTERS,

  • AND THEY WERE ABLE TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THOSE

  • TECHNOLOGICAL SKILLS AND THAT KNOW-HOW

  • TO FORM THE FOUNDATION OF THEIR FUR TRADE EMPIRE.

  • - IN 1805, A RUSSIAN SHIP-- "CONSTANTINE"--

  • DROPPED MIKHAIL AND 11 OTHERS ON BERING ISLAND.

  • FOR 7 YEARS, THEY HAD NO CONTACT WITH THE OUTSIDE WORLD,

  • AND THEY SURVIVED ONLY BECAUSE OF UNANGAN GENEROSITY.

  • MIKHAIL BECAME A MANAGER IN THE RUSSIAN-AMERICAN COMPANY,

  • WHICH WAS THE MONOPOLY THAT RAN THE FUR EMPIRE

  • IN THE ALEUTIANS,

  • AND HE ENDED UP MARRYING NEDEZHDA.

  • - WHEN PEOPLE IN THE ALEUTIANS

  • CAME IN CONTACT WITH THE RUSSIANS FOR THE FIRST TIME,

  • THEY WERE IRREVOCABLY LINKED INTO THE WORLD ECONOMY.

  • MARKET FORCES IN OTHER CONTINENTS

  • WOULD DIRECTLY AFFECT THEIR LIVES

  • THROUGH THE RUSSIAN FUR TRADE IN TERMS OF

  • THE AVAILABILITY AND TYPES OF TRADE GOODS

  • THAT WERE ENTERING THEIR MATERIAL CULTURE.

  • - SOME RUSSIANS, LIKE MY GREAT-GREAT-GRANDFATHER MIKHAIL,

  • EMBRACED OUR PEOPLE'S WAYS,

  • BUT OTHERS, THEY JUST SOUGHT ONLY TO CONQUER.

  • THE RUSSIANS, THEY BROUGHT DISEASES THAT OUR PEOPLE

  • HAD NO IMMUNITY TO,

  • AND WHEN THE UNANGAN REVOLTED AGAINST RUSSIAN RULE,

  • THEY WERE KILLED BY RUSSIAN RIFLES AND SWORDS.

  • - AT THE POINT OF RUSSIAN CONTACT,

  • WITH THE INUIT PEOPLE IN THE MID-18th CENTURY,

  • THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS WERE FAR MORE DENSELY POPULATED

  • THAN THEY ARE TODAY.

  • WITHIN THE FIRST 80 YEARS OR SO

  • OF RUSSIAN OCCUPATION OF THE ALEUTIANS,

  • THERE'S AN 80% POPULATION DECLINE.

  • WE REMEMBER THE BLACK DEATH IN THE 1340s

  • AS THIS DRAMATIC EVENT

  • WHICH REALLY SHAPED THE COURSE OF WESTERN CIVILIZATION.

  • BUT WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT THERE?

  • I MEAN, YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT 30%, 1/3, 1/4.

  • THIS IS 80%.

  • IT'S AN ARMAGEDDON.

  • - THIS SLAUGHTER OF SO MANY OF MY PEOPLE

  • LEFT A VOID THAT STILL HANGS OVER THESE ISLANDS.

  • THE SURVIVORS, THEY KEPT ALIVE SOME TRADITIONAL WAYS,

  • BUT MORE AND MORE, THE RUSSIAN CULTURE TOOK HOLD.

  • MY GREAT-GRANDFATHER INNOKENTY

  • WAS A FORCE IN THAT TRANSFORMATION.

  • HE WAS BORN ON THE ISLAND OF ATTU IN 1832,

  • AND AT SOME POINT, MID-LIFE,

  • HE MOVED TO THE ISLAND OF UNALASKA

  • TO SERVE THE COMMUNITY THERE AS A RUSSIAN ORTHODOX PRIEST.

  • [BIRDS SQUAWKING]

  • - IT'S AMAZING TO ME HOW THROUGH THE RUSSIAN ORTHODOX CHURCHES,

  • WE STILL HAVE THE PRESENCE OF RUSSIA.

  • AFTER ALL OF THESE YEARS.

  • - ABSOLUTELY. - WE STILL HAVE IT.

  • SHARON SVARNY-LIVINGSTON IS LIKE ME--

  • TRYING TO BALANCE THE RUSSIAN ORTHODOX FAITH WE WERE RAISED IN

  • WITH THE TRADITIONAL UNANGAN VALUES

  • THAT WE BOTH WANT TO PRESERVE.

  • - WHEN THE RUSSIANS FIRST CAME,

  • MODERN ARCHAEOLOGISTS SAY THE POPULATION

  • WAS SOMEWHERE BETWEEN 20,000 AND 25,000.

  • THE FACT IS THAT WITHIN 40 YEARS OF THE RUSSIANS COMING,

  • THE POPULATION WAS CUT DOWN TO ABOUT 3,000,

  • PROBABLY EVEN LOWER.

  • UM, AND WHEN YOU THINK ABOUT THOSE NUMBERS,

  • UNALASKA ISLAND ITSELF HAD 3,000 PEOPLE ON IT

  • BEFORE RUSSIAN CONTACT.

  • WHO WENT FIRST? THE CHIEFS, THE SHAMAN.

  • SO YOU LOST YOUR BASIS FOR YOUR RELIGION.

  • MISSIONARIES WITH INTENT

  • COME TO A PLACE AND INCORPORATE TRADITIONS AND CULTURES

  • INTO WHAT THEY'RE TRYING TO BRING,

  • AND, YOU KNOW, RUSSIAN ORTHODOXY IS EXTREMELY RITUALISTIC.

  • SHAMANISM WAS VERY RITUALISTIC.

  • YOU KNOW, THEY BELIEVED IN A GREATER BEING,

  • BUT IT WAS MORE TIED TO THE ENVIRONMENT.

  • AND I THINK THEY BROUGHT THOSE THINGS INSIDE THE CHURCH

  • TO MAKE IT AN EASIER TRANSITION FOR THE PEOPLE.

  • INSTEAD OF DOING IT OUTSIDE, LET'S GO INSIDE AND DO IT.

  • OK. YOU'RE GONNA BUILD A INDOOR SPACE FOR US? SURE.

  • - [SINGING IN CHURCH SLAVONIC]

  • - WHEN I LISTEN TO THE YOUNG MEN SING HERE,

  • I ALWAYS THINK ABOUT THE RUSSIAN FUR HUNTER SHIPS' CREWS

  • SINGING THE EVENING PRAYERS.

  • EVERY SHIP CARRIED ICONS, AND ON EVERY SHIP,

  • THE CREW HELD SERVICES.

  • I BELIEVE IN THE POWER OF MUSIC.

  • ALEUTS ARE VERY MUSICAL PEOPLE, AND I FIRMLY BELIEVE IN MY HEART

  • THAT IT WAS THE MUSIC OF THE SERVICE THAT ATTRACTED THEM.

  • - [MAN RECITING CHURCH SERVICE]

  • - I ALWAYS HAVE TO WONDER IF PEOPLE WERE REBELLIOUS

  • WHEN RUSSIAN ORTHODOXY CAME.

  • I'M SURE THAT PROBABLY SOME OF OUR PEOPLE SAID,

  • "WHAT ARE THEY DOING WAVING THAT INCENSE AROUND?"

  • - I WAS MYSTIFIED WHEN I FIRST CAME TO ALASKA

  • OVER 35 YEARS AGO--

  • WHY DO THE PEOPLE IN THE ALEUTIAN CHAIN

  • SO FERVENTLY HOLD ON TO THIS ALIEN FAITH

  • THAT HAD BEEN INTRODUCED TO THEM FROM SIBERIA,

  • NAMELY, THE RUSSIAN ORTHODOX CHURCH?

  • IF THIS IS THE RELIGION OF THEIR ENEMIES AND THEIR OPPRESSORS,

  • WHY WASN'T IT ALL ABANDONED

  • AS SOON AS THE RUSSIANS WERE GONE?

  • IT SEEMS THAT THERE WAS A WAY IN WHICH

  • EASTERN CHRISTIANITY RESONATED WITH

  • THE ANCIENT TRIBAL BELIEFS OF THE UNANGAN AND THE ALUTIIQ PEOPLES.

  • THE MISSIONARIES TOOK THE TIME TO LISTEN TO THE STORIES,

  • ANALYZE THOSE STORIES, AND BUILD ON THAT FOUNDATION.

  • THEY CAME TO UNDERSTAND IT IN THEIR OWN LANGUAGE

  • AND ADAPT IT TO THEIR OWN LIVES

  • AS IT BECAME THE VERY CENTER OF ALEUT CULTURAL IDENTITY

  • AND ALEUT LIFE.

  • - YOU ARE GIVEN BETTER TREATMENT UNDER THE RUSSIAN RULES

  • BY JOINING THE ORTHODOX CHURCH.

  • IF YOU DID THAT, YOU WOULD BE TREATED MUCH MORE CIVILLY,

  • SO A LOT OF PEOPLE DID.

  • AND WHEN THEY DID, THEY HAD TO TAKE ON RUSSIAN NAMES

  • WHEN YOU'RE BAPTIZED IN RUSSIAN ORTHODOX CHURCH.

  • THIS IS WHY MOST ALEUTS HAVE RUSSIAN NAMES TODAY.

  • [CHURCH BELLS RINGING]

  • - ONCE WE GRAB ON TO SOMETHING, WE DON'T WANT TO LET IT GO.

  • WE MAKE IT OURS.

  • - [MAN RECITING CHURCH SERVICE, CHORAL RESPONSE]

  • - BUT I ALSO THINK THE CHURCH PROTECTED THE PEOPLE.

  • NOT ONLY FROM THE RUSSIANS, WHEN THEY WERE SO BRUTAL,

  • BUT THEY PROTECTED PEOPLE DURING THE AMERICANIZATION.

  • LIKE DAD SAID, YOU HAVE TO TAKE CARE

  • OF SOMETHING THAT TOOK CARE OF YOU.

  • - THAT'S RIGHT. - AND IT DID TAKE CARE OF OUR PEOPLE

  • THROUGH TRIALS AND TRIBULATIONS, THROUGH DIFFERENT POLITICAL ERAS

  • AND SOCIAL PRESSURES, LANGUAGE CHANGES.

  • - [PEOPLE SINGING HYMNS]

  • - [MAN RECITING CHURCH SERVICE]

  • - BUT HE ALSO SAID, "SOMETIMES I LONG FOR THE DAYS

  • WHEN MY PEOPLE RESPECTED THE EARTH, SEA, AND SKY."

  • AND I COULD SEE THAT HE WAS TRYING

  • TO HAVE THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS.

  • - AMEN.

  • - RUSSIAN ORTHODOX PRIESTS CAN MARRY.

  • MY GREAT-GRANDFATHER INNOKENTY WAS MARRIED AND HAD CHILDREN,

  • AND HIS OLDEST SON DMITRI WAS MY GRANDFATHER.

  • MY GRANDFATHER DMITRI LESTENKOF WORKED HERE ON UNALASKA

  • IN THE EARLY 1880s FOR THE ALASKA COMMERCIAL COMPANY.

  • AND THE ONLY THING THAT I CAN FIND LEFT OF THAT COMPANY

  • IS THE A.C. VALUE CENTER, AS IN ALASKA COMMERCIAL VALUE CENTER.

  • BOTH MY GREAT-GRANDFATHER INNOKENTY

  • AND MY GRANDFATHER DMITRI HAD UNANGAN BLOOD AND RUSSIAN BLOOD,

  • WHICH MADE THEM CREOLES.

  • - [SINGING IN RUSSIAN]

  • - THE CONCEPT OF CREOLE, OR PEOPLE WHO ARE

  • OF MIXED SLAVIC AND INDIGENOUS BACKGROUNDS,

  • GOES BACK HUNDREDS OF YEARS BEFORE ALASKA WAS EVEN

  • DISCOVERED BY THE RUSSIANS.

  • THE RUSSIANS WHO CAME WERE REALLY NOT

  • BLUE-EYED, BLOND-HAIRED SLAVS FROM MOSCOW.

  • THEY WERE PRIMARILY MEN THEMSELVES OF MIXED

  • RACIAL AND CULTURAL BACKGROUNDS.

  • AND EVENTUALLY, THESE MEN SETTLED

  • WITH THE ALEUT PEOPLE, THE UNANGAN PEOPLE

  • IN THE ALEUTIAN CHAIN.

  • THE CREOLES HAD AN ELEVATED STATUS IN ALASKA.

  • THEY WERE THE MAINSTAY OF THE COLONY.

  • THE COLONY COULD NOT HAVE FUNCTIONED WITHOUT THEM.

  • THERE WASN'T AN ASSAULT ON NATIVE LANGUAGE AND CULTURE, PER SE,

  • BUT THERE WAS THE FOCUS ON TRAINING,

  • ESPECIALLY THOSE OF MIXED BACKGROUND,

  • TO READ AND WRITE AS WELL AS SPEAK

  • IN AT LEAST 2 LANGUAGES,

  • AND THEN THERE WERE CREOLES WHO SPOKE 3 AND 4.

  • THEY DIDN'T ABANDON THEIR LANGUAGE AND THEIR CULTURE,

  • BUT THEY ADDED TO IT.

  • - THIS CREOLE CULTURE WAS THROWN INTO TURMOIL

  • WHEN THE UNITED STATES PURCHASED ALASKA IN 1867

  • FOR $7.2 MILLION.

  • THE AMERICANS WERE SO KEEN ON REAPING

  • THE FINANCIAL REWARDS OF THE FUR TRADE,

  • AND THEY WERE JUST AS ADAMANT ON IMPOSING

  • AMERICAN LANGUAGE AND CUSTOMS.

  • - AT THE TIME THE AMERICANS ARRIVED IN ALASKA IN 1867,

  • ALEUTS WERE CONSIDERED THE ELITE NATIVE PEOPLE IN THE TERRITORY.

  • TO BE AN ALEUT WAS TO BE SOMETHING SPECIAL.

  • PARTLY THAT WAS BECAUSE ALEUTS HAD BECOME

  • A VERY EDUCATED PEOPLE.

  • THEY WERE LITERATE IN RUSSIAN, LITERATE IN ALEUT.

  • THEY HAD BEEN MANAGERS, STOREKEEPERS.

  • THEY HAD BEEN TEACHERS, PRIESTS, DEACONS.

  • BUT WITH THE ARRIVAL OF THE AMERICANS,

  • THEY WERE NO LONGER ELIGIBLE FOR ANY OF THOSE POSITIONS.

  • THERE WAS A SENSE THAT ALEUTS WERE INDIANS

  • AND THAT THEY WERE SAVAGE INDIANS,

  • BECAUSE THE INDIAN WARS WERE STILL GOING ON

  • IN THE LOWER 48.

  • IN ORDER FOR AN ALEUT TO BECOME

  • A FULL PARTICIPANT IN THE AMERICAN SYSTEM,

  • HE OR SHE HAD TO ESSENTIALLY ABANDON

  • THEIR TIES WITH THE ALEUT PEOPLE.

  • - AFTER THE AMERICANS CAME, THEY DISCOURAGED EVERYTHING THAT WAS NATIVE.

  • THEY DISCOURAGED EVERYTHING THAT WAS ALEUT

  • AND WANTED TO DO AWAY WITH IT.

  • ABSOLUTELY YOU WERE NOT ALLOWED TO SPEAK ALEUT IN SCHOOL.

  • YOU WERE PUNISHED FOR THAT.

  • - THE FEDERAL MARSHALS GOT INVOLVED.

  • THEY ARRESTED PARENTS. THEY CLOSED SCHOOLS FORCIBLY.

  • THE UNANGAN WERE BASICALLY A PERSECUTED MINORITY

  • IN THEIR OWN HOMELAND, WHERE THEY WERE

  • THE VAST MAJORITY OF THE POPULATION.

  • - MY PARENTS, WHEN THEY WERE GROWING UP,

  • GOING TO GRADE SCHOOL,

  • THEY WERE PUNISHED FOR SPEAKING OUR LANGUAGE...

  • SO THEY DIDN'T WANT US TO BE PUNISHED.

  • MY PARENTS COULD SPEAK TO EACH OTHER IN OUR LANGUAGE

  • AND NONE OF US WOULD UNDERSTAND.

  • IT WASN'T SPOKEN TO US.

  • SO THERE WERE 9 OF US IN MY FAMILY, 9 SIBLINGS,

  • AND NONE OF US PICKED UP THE LANGUAGE.

  • UNANGAM TUNUU, THE LANGUAGE, WASN'T THE ONLY THING

  • SLOWLY DISAPPEARING FROM THE ALEUTIANS ISLANDS.

  • BY THE LATE 1760s, SEA OTTERS

  • HAD BEEN BROUGHT TO THE EDGE OF EXTINCTION

  • BY THE DEMANDS OF THIS FUR TRADE.

  • THE HUNTERS NEEDED A NEW SOURCE OF FUR,

  • AND THEY FOUND IT IN THE NORTHERN FUR SEAL.

  • THE EASIEST WAY TO CAPTURE THE FUR SEALS

  • WAS AT THEIR BREEDING GROUNDS.

  • IN 1786, A RUSSIAN NAVIGATOR, GAVRIL PRIBYLOF,

  • FOLLOWED THE NORTHERN FUR SEALS

  • TO THEIR ROOKERIES ON SAINT GEORGE ISLAND.

  • THE RUSSIANS BEGAN BRINGING UNANGAN MEN

  • FROM THE ALEUTIAN CHAIN TO HARVEST THE FIRST SEALS,

  • AND BY 1867, WHEN THE AMERICANS TOOK OVER,

  • THERE WERE SIZABLE SETTLEMENTS ON BOTH ISLANDS.

  • IN 1882, MY GREAT-GRANDFATHER INNOKENTY

  • MOVED TO SAINT GEORGE ISLAND TO SERVE AS THE PARISH PRIEST.

  • HE HAD TO PETITION THE ALASKA COMMERCIAL COMPANY

  • FOR YEARS TO GET THEM TO ALLOW HIS SON DMITRI

  • TO RELOCATE, AS WELL.

  • [GULLS SQUAWKING]

  • THIS IS THE VILLAGE OF SAINT GEORGE.

  • THIS IS WHERE I WAS BORN...

  • AND RIGHT OVER HERE BEHIND ME

  • IS THE HOME OF MY GRANDMOTHER AND GRANDFATHER,

  • MY MOM'S PARENTS, AND SO FROM THE TIME I WAS BORN

  • TILL I WAS ABOUT 4 YEARS OLD, I SPENT A LOT OF TIME

  • COMING OVER HERE TO MY GRANDMOTHER'S HOUSE...

  • AND WHEN I COME HERE, I ALWAYS STILL FEEL QUITE AT HOME,

  • EVEN IF IT'S BEEN A FEW DECADES SINCE I'VE ACTUALLY SPENT

  • MORE THAN A FEW DAYS HERE.

  • WHEN YOU COME HERE TO SAINT GEORGE,

  • EVERYTHING IS NESTLED ALL TOGETHER,

  • THE VILLAGE WITH THE BIRD CLIFFS AND THE FUR SEALS.

  • IT'S ALL JUST RIGHT HERE AT THE DOORSTEP OF THE VILLAGE.

  • MY GREAT-GRANDFATHER, REVEREND INNOKENTY LESTENKOF,

  • WAS THE FIRST LESTENKOF ON THE PRIBILOF ISLANDS,

  • AND HE SERVED THE PARISH HERE IN THE LATE 1800s,

  • AND HERE IS WHERE HE IS BURIED--

  • REVEREND INNOKENTY MIKHAILOVICH LESTENKOV.

  • IN THE BELIEF OF UNANGAN PEOPLE, OUR LIFE IS A VISIT.

  • WE DON'T HAVE A WORD FOR DEATH.

  • WE USE A WORD THAT ACTUALLY TRANSLATES INTO ENGLISH

  • AS "DONE VISITING THIS LAND."

  • WHEN THE AMERICANS TOOK OVER THE FUR INDUSTRY

  • ON SAINT PAUL AND SAINT GEORGE ISLANDS,

  • THEY BEGAN KEEPING METICULOUS RECORDS.

  • PART OF MY JOB AT THE TRIBAL GOVERNMENT OF SAINT PAUL

  • IS TO LOOK AT THESE OLD ARCHIVES,

  • SO MY COWORKER SAMANTHA ZACHAROF AND I

  • HAVE SPENT MANY HOURS PORING OVER THESE RECORDS.

  • OH, I DIDN'T KNOW THIS WENT BACK THAT FAR.

  • BOTH SAINT PAUL AND SAINT GEORGE ISLANDS

  • WERE RUN LIKE COMPANY TOWNS.

  • THE UNANGAN WORKERS WERE WARDS OF THE STATE.

  • - WE BECAME IN A STATE OF SERVITUDE TO THE U.S. GOVERNMENT

  • AS THE ONLY CAPTIVE LABOR FORCE OF THE AMERICAN GOVERNMENT

  • IN THE ENTIRE HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES.

  • - EVERY ASPECT OF THE FUR INDUSTRY OPERATED

  • UNDER GOVERNMENT SUPERVISION,

  • AND WORKERS WERE GIVEN ALLOTMENTS

  • THAT THEY USED TO MAKE PURCHASES.

  • EVERY TRANSACTION WAS RECORDED DOWN TO THE LAST PENNY.

  • SO FOR SOMEONE IN 1898 ON MARCH 26

  • TO PURCHASE TEA, SUGAR, MILK, BUTTER, FLOUR, SOUP,

  • TOBACCO, MATCHES, FRUIT,

  • AND--I DON'T KNOW WHAT THAT IS-- HANDKERCHIEFS,

  • ONE PAIR OF BABY SHOES-- 75 CENTS.

  • MOST PEOPLE DON'T EVEN KNOW THAT THE UNITED STATES

  • HAD A FUR SEAL INDUSTRY,

  • MUCH LESS THE CONDITIONS WITH WHICH THE WORKFORCE,

  • THE UNANGAN PEOPLE, HAD TO LIVE WITH.

  • - ALASKA WAS PURCHASED FOR $7.2 MILLION.

  • THE PRIBILOF ISLANDS ALONE HAVE PROBABLY PAID

  • FOR THE STATE OF ALASKA

  • AT LEAST 10 TIMES OVER.

  • I KNOW IT'S MORE THAN THAT.

  • DID WE GET OUR FAIR SHARE? NO.

  • IF YOU GET PAID 25 CENTS A SKIN WHEN THAT SKIN

  • IS WORTH HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS, I DON'T THINK SO.

  • - WHAT'S IN HERE?

  • - THIS IS JUST THEIR ORDER FORMS FOR SEARS.

  • - OK.

  • READING SOME OF THIS STUFF, I HAVE TO STAND UP

  • AND JUST TAKE A DEEP BREATH BECAUSE I WANT TO GET ANGRY.

  • THAT'S THE HARD PART.

  • HOW DO YOU HAVE A PIECE OF HISTORY BE KNOWN AND BE TOLD

  • WITHOUT MAKING THE NEXT GENERATION ANGRY?

  • - THIS IS PART OF HISTORY, NO MATTER HOW IT MAKES YOU FEEL.

  • - YEAH.

  • HOW DO YOU HAVE IT GO FORWARD INTO THE FUTURE

  • AND BE USED SO AS NOT TO REPEAT ITSELF?

  • I THINK IT AFFIRMS THE NEED FOR THIS HISTORY TO BE KNOWN.

  • IT'S NOT JUST OUR HISTORY. IT'S THE HISTORY OF THIS NATION.

  • BOTH MY FATHER AND MY MOTHER

  • WERE BORN ON SAINT GEORGE ISLAND.

  • MY FATHER, MICHAEL LESTENKOF, WAS BORN IN 1913.

  • MY MOTHER STEFANIDA LEKANOF WAS BORN IN 1919.

  • IN 1938, THEY GOT MARRIED.

  • LIKE ALL THE MEN ON SAINT GEORGE ISLAND,

  • MY FATHER WORKED IN THE FUR SEAL INDUSTRY.

  • THAT'S HIM TAKING A CIGARETTE BREAK

  • IN FRONT OF THE SEAL PLANT.

  • - THAT'S IT. THAT'S IT. A LITTLE MORE. A LITTLE MORE.

  • THAT'S IT. COME ON.

  • - ALL IN A DAY'S WORK, THE FIRST SEAL HARVEST WOULD BEGIN

  • WITH AN EARLY-MORNING ROUNDUP FROM THE BEACH.

  • PLACING THEMSELVES BETWEEN THE SEALS AND THE SEA,

  • SHOUTING AND WHISTLING, THEY DRIVE THE SEALS INLAND.

  • USING LONG HICKORY STICKS, THEY DIVIDE OUT A POD

  • OF ABOUT 6 TO 12 SEALS.

  • - YEAH. A LITTLE MORE. THAT'S IT.

  • - EACH SEAL IS DELIVERED A SINGLE BLOW TO THE HEAD,

  • WHICH STUNS THEM...

  • AND WITH A KNIFE PIERCING TO THE HEART, THEY ARE KILLED.

  • THE WASHHOUSE BUILDING ON SAINT GEORGE ISLAND

  • IS THE ONLY REMAINING EVIDENCE OF WHAT WAS ONCE

  • A VERY BUSY FUR SEAL INDUSTRY.

  • - ONCE THE FUR SEAL PROCESS...

  • - ANTHONY MERCULIEF IS ONE OF THE LAST PEOPLE

  • ON SAINT GEORGE ISLAND TO HAVE WORKED AT THE SEAL PLANT.

  • - THE DUMP TRUCKS WOULD BRING THE PELTS TO THIS PLATFORM HERE.

  • THE WINDOWS WERE OPEN, AND THE SEAL SKINS

  • WERE THROWN INSIDE THE TANKS THAT ARE IN THERE

  • THAT ARE FILLED WITH SALTWATER.

  • - SO THIS WOULD BE THE SKIN HOUSE OR THE WASHHOUSE?

  • - WASHHOUSE. YEAH.

  • THIS IS WHERE THE SKINS WERE BROUGHT IN

  • THROUGH THE WINDOWS OVER THERE.

  • THIS WAS FILLED UP WITH SALTWATER,

  • AND THE SKINS WERE PUT IN HERE AND SOAKED OVERNIGHT.

  • - DO YOU KNOW HOW MANY SKINS THEY WOULD BE ABLE TO FIT IN?

  • - IN EACH TANK, PROBABLY 100 OR MORE.

  • THEY HAD AN OVERHEAD TROLLEY

  • THAT HUNG FROM THIS TRACK RIGHT HERE.

  • THEY WOULD FILL THE THING WITH SEAL SKINS

  • AND HAUL THEM DOWN THROUGH THIS TRACK

  • TO THAT FAR END OF THE BUILDING,

  • WHERE THEY WERE PUT ON THE TABLES

  • AND GIVEN TO THE BLUBBER PEOPLE TO BLUBBER THEM.

  • - THEN FROM IN HERE AND ON THESE TRACKS,

  • IS THIS HOW SKINS WERE BROUGHT INTO THIS ROOM?

  • - RIGHT.

  • - AND THIS WAS THE BLUBBERY SHOP, HUH?

  • - YEAH.

  • - AND WHAT ARE THESE TABLES FOR?

  • - THIS IS WHERE SKINS WERE STACKED.

  • - SO HOPEFULLY, YOU DIDN'T HAVE A BIG PILE.

  • - RIGHT, AND SMALL SKINS.

  • - YEAH. OH, OK, SIZE.

  • - THE EASY ONES.

  • THE BIG ONES WERE STRINGY AND HARD TO BLUBBER.

  • - OH, OK. SO YOU BLUBBERED HERE, TOO.

  • - YEAH. - YEAH?

  • - YOU WOULD REACH OVER AND GRAB A SKIN,

  • PUT IT ON THE BEAM FUR SIDE UP,

  • AND YOU'D GRAB A KNIFE FROM HERE,

  • CUT THE EARS OFF, CUT A LITTLE BIT

  • OF THE SKIN AROUND THE ARM HOLES.

  • THEN YOU TAKE THE SKIN AND TURN IT AROUND

  • WITH THE BLUBBER SIDE UP AND SCRAPE THE BLUBBER OFF.

  • THEN WHEN YOU GOT DONE WITH THAT,

  • YOU FLIP IT OVER AND DO THE OTHER SIDE.

  • - IN 2000, I CAME OVER WITH MY DAD INTO THE SEAL PLANT HERE,

  • AND WHEN HE COUNTED DOWN, HE SAID,

  • "THIS IS BLUBBER BEAM NUMBER 13,"

  • AND HE SAID, "NO ONE WANTED TO BLUBBER HERE

  • "BECAUSE 13 WAS AN UNLUCKY NUMBER,

  • "BUT SINCE I WAS BORN ON OCTOBER 13, 1913,

  • IT'S MY LUCKY NUMBER, SO THIS IS WHERE I BLUBBERED PELTS."

  • HE'D SAY, "I WAS BORN ON THE 13th HOUR, TOO,"

  • BUT I DON'T THINK HE WAS.

  • HE JUST THREW THAT IN FOR THE STORY.

  • [BOTH LAUGH]

  • IN 1941, THERE WERE ABOUT 500 UNANGAN

  • LIVING ON SAINT GEORGE AND SAINT PAUL ISLANDS,

  • BUT ONE YEAR LATER, THERE WOULD BE NONE.

  • WORLD WAR II SHATTERED LIFE ON THE PRIBILOF ISLANDS.

  • - WE USED TO HEAR THE PLANES GOING OVER THE ISLAND.

  • THE BLACKOUTS STARTED RIGHT AFTER PEARL HARBOR WAS BOMBED.

  • - MY MOTHER-IN-LAW MARY BOURDUKOFSKY

  • WAS A YOUNG WOMAN WITH YOUNG CHILDREN

  • WHEN WORLD WAR II BROKE OUT.

  • SAME RIGHT HERE. - MM-HMM.

  • ALL THE WINDOWS AT NIGHT, YOU HAMMER A BLANKET

  • TO MAKE IT DARK, NO LIGHTS,

  • NO KIND OF A LIGHT, AND YOU'RE NOT SUPPOSED

  • TO EVEN SMOKE CIGARETTE OUTSIDE OR NOTHING.

  • - IN JUNE 1942, THE JAPANESE BOMBED THE HARBOR AT UNALASKA.

  • THEY INVADED THE ISLANDS OF ATTU AND KISKA...

  • AND THEY TOOK AMERICAN CITIZENS CAPTIVE.

  • - JUNE 1942.

  • THE NEWS ABOUT DUTCH HARBOR BEING BOMBED

  • AT 6 A.M. REACHED US YESTERDAY.

  • NEXT CAME NEWS OF ATTU.

  • THE WAR BECAME TOO HORRIBLY REAL.

  • IT SEEMED SENSIBLE TO PREPARE,

  • SO THE FIRST AND ONLY AIR RAID SHELTER

  • IS BEING ERECTED ON SAINT PAUL.

  • WE APPEALED TO THE GOVERNMENT AGENT

  • TO TAKE SOME ACTION FOR THE COMMUNITY'S SAFETY.

  • WE BEGGED HIM TO EVACUATE THE WOMEN AND CHILDREN AT LEAST.

  • - THE UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT ORDERED A COMPLETE EVACUATION

  • OF ALL UNANGAN FROM THE ALEUTIAN AND PRIBILOF ISLANDS.

  • YOU DIDN'T KNOW BEFOREHAND...

  • - NO. WE DIDN'T KNOW.

  • - THAT YOU WERE BEING EVACUATED?

  • - NO. WE DIDN'T KNOW. - WHEN DID YOU FIND OUT?

  • - IT WAS SUNDAY AFTERNOON,

  • AND THEY USED TO HAVE A BIG BALL GAME GOING ON ON SUNDAYS.

  • THAT SUNDAY HAPPENED TO BE A BEAUTIFUL DAY,

  • AND MY HUSBAND WAS A BALLPLAYER, AND HE WENT OUT, BUT I WAS HOME.

  • I HAD A LITTLE, 3-MONTHS-OLD BABY

  • AND A TWO-YEAR-OLD LITTLE BOY.

  • SO I WAS WASHING DIAPERS BY WASHBOARD, YOU KNOW?

  • I DIDN'T HAVE NO WASHING MACHINE,

  • AND THE BIG TRANSPORT LANDED OVER THERE IN EAST LANDING.

  • PEOPLE WERE JUST PUZZLED, WHAT WAS GOING ON,

  • AND THEN MY HUSBAND CAME RUNNING HOME TO TELL ME

  • THAT THEY'RE TAKING EVERYBODY.

  • SAID, "THEY TELL US TO TAKE JUST WHAT YOU HAVE ON YOUR BACK

  • AND CHANGE OF CLOTHES. THAT'S ALL,"

  • AND WE DIDN'T HAD NO SUITCASES BECAUSE WE NEVER TRAVEL,

  • SO I START FILLING UP CLEAN 50-POUND FLOUR SACKS

  • I HAVE WITH MY CHILDREN CLOTHES,

  • AND A CARDBOARD BOX I HAVE, I FILLED THAT ONE, TOO.

  • THEY WALKED ALL THE WAY TO EAST LANDING HERE.

  • IT WAS SO SAD. WOMEN WERE CRYING.

  • ELDERS WERE CRYING,

  • AND PEOPLE CARRY A SACK OF THEIR CLOTHES.

  • - EVERYONE WAS EVACUATED--

  • MARY'S FAMILY, MY FATHER AND MY MOTHER,

  • MY OLDER SISTER AND BROTHER.

  • THEY WERE ALL TAKEN TO A CAMP IN SOUTHEASTERN ALASKA,

  • TO A PLACE CALLED FUNTER BAY.

  • - THE HUNGER AND THE COLD,

  • THAT REALLY GETS US IN FUNTER BAY.

  • I HAD TO DRESS MY LITTLE KIDS WITH WHATEVER THEY HAD.

  • ALL THEIR THINGS GOT WORN OUT. THEY GOT SMALL.

  • MY LITTLE BOY HAD NO SHOES, AND IT'S BARE FLOOR,

  • AND THE MEMORIES COME BACK TO ME.

  • - MM-HMM. - YEAH.

  • WHAT THEY ISSUE US IS POWDERED--

  • POWDERED EGGS, POWDERED MILK.

  • WE HAD NO STOVE TO COOK, ANYWAY.

  • THERE WAS NO RUNNING WATER, NO BATHS, NO TOILETS,

  • EXCEPT FOR ONE OVER THE BAY.

  • YOU HAVE TO WALK ON A PLANK.

  • - THERE WAS JUST THE HOLE.

  • - YEAH. THE WASTE JUST GOES IN THE BAY...

  • AND THERE WERE FISH SWIMMING AROUND, AND WE COULDN'T EAT IT.

  • HOW COULD WE?

  • AND THE BABIES WERE SICKLY-- COLD, SORES, IMPETIGOS...

  • AND WE WERE INFESTED WITH LICE.

  • ALL THAT 2 1/2 YEARS, WE WERE THERE

  • CLEANING OUR HEADS EVERY NIGHT SOMETIMES.

  • I ALWAYS SAY, "I HOPE IT NEVER HAPPENS AGAIN."

  • - YEAH.

  • - TOGETHER, WE TRY TO REMEMBER WHAT OUR PARENTS

  • AND GRANDPARENTS WENT THROUGH DURING THE WAR.

  • SUFFERING THAT DIDN'T END WHEN PEOPLE CAME BACK FROM

  • FUNTER BAY.

  • OUR PARENTS AND OUR GRANDPARENTS CAME HOME TO FIND

  • THEIR HOUSES RANSACKED.

  • [PRIEST RECITING SCRIPTURE]

  • AMERICAN SOLDIERS HAD TAKEN EVERYTHING OF VALUE,

  • EVEN ICONS FROM OUR CHURCHES.

  • BUT THE DEEPEST LOSS WAS OF THOSE WHO NEVER RETURNED.

  • BECAUSE THEY DIED AT FUNTER BAY.

  • IN 1960, I WAS BORN ON SAINT GEORGE ISLAND,

  • THE 8TH OF 9 CHILDREN.

  • AND WHEN I WAS 3 YEARS OLD, MY DAD FOLLOWED IN MY GREAT

  • GRANDFATHER INNOKENTY'S FOOTSTEPS, AND HE BECAME

  • AN ORTHODOX PRIEST.

  • IN 1964, MY FATHER WAS TRANSFERRED TO SERVE THE

  • PARISH OF SAINT PAUL ISLAND, SO WE MOVED THERE.

  • [YELLING, METALLIC CLANGING]

  • THE 1970's WOULD LEAD TO DIFFICULT TIMES

  • FOR THE COMMERCIAL FUR SEAL INDUSTRY.

  • - WITH MAN'S DOMINION OVER ANIMALS--AS GOD KNOWS,

  • THAT BIBLE IS QUOTED TO US ENOUGH--

  • WITH THAT GOES RESPONSIBILITY.

  • - ON JANUARY, 1970, PRESIDENT NIXON PROMISED PEACE WITH

  • NATURE, AND I QUOTE THAT "PEACE WITH NATURE."

  • AND WHAT BETTER PLACE TO START THAN TO END THE MASSACRE

  • OF SEALS BY GOVERNMENT EMPLOYEES?

  • - IT'S FOR NOTHING EXCEPT A LUXURY PRODUCT.

  • IT'S STRICTLY TO PLEASE THE VANITY OF SOME WOMEN THAT

  • THESE SEALS ARE BEING CLUBBED AND BLED AND STUCK AND SKINNED.

  • - WE ARE OPPOSED TO THE UNNECESSARY KILLING OF ANY

  • ANIMAL, AND I THINK IT'S OUR RESPONSIBILITY TO TAKE A COLD,

  • HARD LOOK AT WHAT WE'RE DOING.

  • - IT WAS AN INDISCRIMINATE OUTRAGE, I THINK, THAT WAS

  • FOCUSED PRIMARILY ON OUR PEOPLE.

  • WE WERE GETTING HATE MAIL FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD FROM PEOPLE

  • WHO WERE BEING MISLED BY CERTAIN KINDS OF ANIMAL RIGHTS

  • GROUPS FIGHTING AGAINST THE TAKING OF FUR SEALS FOR THEIR

  • PELTS BY THE U.S. GOVERNMENT.

  • - TIME AND TIME AGAIN, WE'VE BEEN THE ONES TO HAVE TO STAND

  • UP TO IGNORANCE ABOUT THE FUR SEALS.

  • THE RUSSIANS AND THE AMERICANS WANTED TO TAKE ALL THE FUR

  • SEALS FOR A QUICK PROFIT.

  • WE HAD BEEN THE ONES TO SAY THE HARVEST HAD TO BE SUSTAINABLE.

  • NOW, OUTSIDERS HAD A NEW DEMAND--

  • STOP THE HARVEST ALTOGETHER.

  • - WE HAD NO PLANS FOR AN ALTERNATIVE ECONOMIC BASE,

  • SO UNCERTAINTY WAS THERE, DEPRESSION SET

  • IN ON A COMMUNITY-WIDE BASIS, AND WE BEGAN TO HAVE ONE

  • SERIES OF TRAGIC EVENTS AFTER ANOTHER.

  • BETWEEN 1982 AND 1983, WE HAD 100 DOCUMENTED SUICIDE

  • ATTEMPTS, 4 SUICIDES, 3 MURDERS.

  • DEFINITELY, WE SAW THE EFFECTS OF A GOVERNMENT-RUN COMPANY

  • TOWN WHEN THE GOVERNMENT DECIDES TO PULL OUT.

  • WE WERE LITERALLY PLANNING ONE-WAY TICKETS

  • FOR PEOPLE OFF THE ISLAND.

  • [MOTOR RUNS]

  • - IN 1983, WE SAW THE END OF THE COMMERCIAL

  • FUR SEAL INDUSTRY.

  • SO YOU WOULD SUSPECT YOU WOULD SEE THE NUMBER OF

  • FUR SEALS INCREASE.

  • EVERYBODY ASSUMES THE POPULATION IS GOING UP.

  • SOMETHING IS HAPPENING.

  • THIS HISTORICALLY WAS A FUR SEAL ROOKERY.

  • WHEN THE RUSSIAN FUR TRADERS FIRST CAME HERE, THE ROCKY

  • AREAS ON TOLSTOY ROOKERY WERE COMPLETELY COVERED

  • WITH FUR SEALS.

  • IT'S REALLY HARD TO GIVE PEOPLE AN IDEA WHAT A FEW

  • MILLION FUR SEALS WOULD LOOK LIKE.

  • PEOPLE COME HERE NOW AND THEY IMAGINE THAT THERE ARE A LOT

  • OF FUR SEALS.

  • YES, BUT NOT WHAT THEY USED TO BE.

  • MY HUSBAND, PHIL ZAVADIL, MOVED TO SAINT PAUL ISLAND

  • IN 1998 TO WORK WITH THE TRIBAL GOVERNMENT OF SAINT PAUL

  • ON STARTING UP A NEW ECO SYSTEM CONSERVATION OFFICE.

  • - WHEN I FIRST GOT HERE, THERE WAS PROBABLY 1.2 MILLION

  • FUR SEALS ON THE PRIBS.

  • HERE WE ARE, 10 YEARS LATER, AND YOU KNOW, I THINK THEY'RE

  • UNDER 600,000 FUR SEALS NOW.

  • UNLESS WE DO SOMETHING DIFFERENT, I DON'T SEE

  • ANYTHING GETTING ANY BETTER.

  • - THE UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT REMAINS RESPONSIBLE

  • FOR THE WELFARE OF THE FUR SEALS UNDER THE MARINE MAMMAL

  • PROTECTION ACT.

  • THE TRIBAL GOVERNMENTS ARE WORKING WITH THE NATIONAL

  • MARINE FISHERY SERVICE TO CO-MANAGE THE FUR SEAL HERD

  • ON THE PRIBILOF ISLANDS.

  • - THE NORTHERN FUR SEALS ARE FACING A LOT OF THE SAME

  • THREATS THAT MARINE MAMMALS THROUGHOUT THE BERING SEA FACE.

  • THERE'S THE POTENTIAL OF COMPETITION FOR PREY

  • WITH COMMERCIAL FISHERIES.

  • THE PRIMARY PREY FOR FUR SEALS ON THE PRIBILOFS

  • IS WALLEYE POLLOCK.

  • IT'S ALSO THE LARGEST FISHERY IN ALASKA.

  • THERE'S PREDATION.

  • KILLER WHALES TAKE NORTHERN FUR SEALS ALL

  • AROUND THE PRIBILOF ISLANDS.

  • THERE'S DISEASE.

  • DISEASE HAS ALWAYS BEEN PRESENT IN ANIMAL POPULATIONS,

  • BUT COULD INCREASE.

  • IT COULD BE BROUGHT IN BY AN OUTSIDE SOURCE, OR SOMETHING

  • ELSE COULD TRIGGER AN EPIDEMIC OF SORTS.

  • THERE'S ALSO ENTANGLEMENTS.

  • PACKING BANDS, TRAWL NET, MONOFILAMENT.

  • ALL THESE THINGS THAT CAN COME OFF OF FISHING BOATS OR OTHER

  • BOATS THAT FUR SEALS CAN BECOME ENTANGLED IN.

  • AND THEN THERE'S CLIMATE CHANGE.

  • AS WE SEE A WARMING OF TEMPERATURES AND RECEDING

  • OF THE ICE PACK IN THE BERING SEA, IT COULD CERTAINLY AFFECT

  • FUR SEAL BEHAVIOR, AS WELL AS THE AVAILABILITY OF PREY.

  • SO COLLECTIVELY, ALL OF THOSE THREATS TOGETHER MOST LIKELY

  • HAVE SOME SORT OF INFLUENCE.

  • AND WE'RE JUST TRYING TO TEASE OUT WHICH ONE, OR MAYBE SOME

  • OTHER MIGHT BE AFFECTING THE DECLINE.

  • - WE NEED TO DO SOMETHING.

  • THERE'S NOT GOING TO BE ONE SIMPLE ANSWER, AND IT'S NOT

  • GOING TO HAPPEN OVERNIGHT.

  • I MEAN, IT'S TAKEN US A COUPLE HUNDRED

  • YEARS TO GET HERE, AND THAT'S PROBABLY HOW LONG IT'S GOING

  • TO TAKE TO GET THINGS BACK ON TRACK.

  • I FEEL HOPEFUL, AND EQUALLY, I FEEL UNCERTAIN.

  • [WOMAN SPEAKING UNANGAM TUNUU LANGUAGE]

  • - KLUUCHIN. - KLUUCHIN.

  • - HOPEFULNESS AND UNCERTAINTY ARE THE FEELINGS THAT WE HAVE

  • ABOUT OTHER ASPECTS OF OUR CULTURE.

  • THERE ARE 6,000 DIFFERENT LANGUAGES SPOKEN TODAY

  • AROUND THE WORLD.

  • CLOSE TO HALF OF THEM ARE ON THE VERGE OF DISAPPEARING.

  • - SAAGLAX.

  • [SINGING]

  • - WHEN YOU LOSE A LANGUAGE, YOU LOSE A WAY OF THINKING,

  • A WAY OF SOLVING PROBLEMS.

  • IT'S A LOSS.

  • IT'S A LOSS THAT HURTS ALL OF US.

  • THERE ARE FEWER THAN 200 PEOPLE LEFT WHO GREW UP

  • SPEAKING UNANGAM TUNUU.

  • MARY IS ONE OF THEM.

  • HOPEFULLY, MY NEPHEW WILL BECOME ANOTHER.

  • - I WANT TO GET TRADITIONAL TATTOOS LIKE MY MOM'S.

  • THE LITTLE BLUE MOONS AND THE DOT ON THE OTHER SIDE

  • OF THE CRESCENT IS TO REPRESENT THAT THE MOON

  • IS ALWAYS WHOLE, EVEN WHEN IT DOESN'T APPEAR TO BE.

  • - ALONG WITH MY DAUGHTER, KATIA, MY SISTER, STEPHANIE,

  • AND OTHERS IN THE COMMUNITY, WE'VE INITIATED A TRADITIONAL

  • DANCE GROUP.

  • - FOR OUR DANCE, WHENEVER WE PERFORM--I WANT

  • THIS ONE RIGHT HERE.

  • -THE SEAL HEAD? - MM-HMM.

  • - IT WILL FACE THE--

  • - FACE IN?

  • - MM-HMM. - THIS ONE?

  • - YOURS DO THAT, TOO?

  • - DO THEY? - YEAH, THEY DO.

  • - YOU THOUGHT THEY WERE FRECKLES, HUH?

  • [LAUGHTER]

  • - YOU SAID IT WOULD GO THE OPPOSITE WAY, THE OTHER

  • WAY, RIGHT? ON THE OTHER CHEEK.

  • - NO, THE SEALS-- OH, YEAH. THE OPPOSITE.

  • IT'S LIKE A MIRROR IMAGE.

  • I LIKE IT WHEN MY MOM COMES TO ANCHORAGE.

  • I LIKE TO WALK BEHIND HER IN PUBLIC PLACES AND WATCH

  • PEOPLE'S REACTIONS AS WE'RE WALKING BY.

  • - OH.

  • - SHE GETS A LOT OF DOUBLE TAKES?

  • - MM-HMM.

  • WHEN I FIRST DREW THEM, I WANTED TO GET THEM PERMANENTLY DONE.

  • I WANTED TO JUST DO IT. JUST DELVE RIGHT INTO IT.

  • - AND WHEN I DID MY FACE, I WANTED TO DO IT 12 YEARS

  • EARLIER THAN I ACTUALLY DID IT, BUT MAYBE THE TIMING

  • WOULDN'T HAVE BEEN RIGHT THEN, ANYWAY, BECAUSE I STILL HAD

  • SOME THINGS THAT I NEEDED TO EXPERIENCE.

  • AND SO, IT'S ALL ABOUT TIMING.

  • THAT'S WHY I SAID YOU WILL KNOW--WHEN THE TIMING IS

  • RIGHT, YOU'LL KNOW.

  • - OF COURSE, EVERYONE'S GOING TO BE CURIOUS.

  • YOU KNOW, LIKE, I'VE SEEN PEOPLE ASK YOU,

  • "ARE THOSE PERMANENT?" OR "ARE THOSE REAL?"

  • AND THOSE ARE GOOD QUESTIONS, BUT THE BETTER QUESTIONS ARE,

  • "WHAT DOES IT REPRESENT?" "WHAT MADE YOU DO IT?"

  • "WHY DID YOU DO IT?"

  • TIMES HAVE CHANGED. TIMES ARE CHANGING.

  • TIMES WILL ALWAYS BE CHANGING.

  • AND THIS IS MY CHOICE THEN TO REPRESENT WHO I AM AND WHERE I

  • COME FROM, WHETHER OR WHETHER NOT PEOPLE LIKE IT.

  • - IF AND WHEN YOU DO, IF SOMEONE SAYS TO YOU,

  • "ARE THOSE PERMANENT?," WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO SAY?

  • - I DON'T KNOW.

  • I LIKE YOUR RESPONSE-- "ONLY AS PERMANENT AS I AM."

  • - YEAH.

  • YOU DIDN'T LOOK AT THEM YET.

  • - I WANT TO SEE.

  • [DRUM BEATING/SINGING]

  • - IF MY CULTURAL BASIS IS BASED ON A RELATIONSHIP TO

  • SEALS AND SEA LIONS AND BIRDS, WHEN THOSE ANIMALS ARE GONE,

  • WE'RE GONE.

  • THE ALEUT CULTURE WILL NOT EXIST.

  • THE HOPEFUL THING IS THAT WE ARE RAISING YOUNG GENERATION

  • PEOPLE WHO ARE REALLY WANTING TO HAVE THAT BACK.

  • - HOW CAN WE REALLY SUSTAIN THE ISLAND?

  • BUT IT'S REALLY UP TO THE PEOPLE OF THE ISLAND TO MAKE

  • THAT DECISION FOR THEMSELVES.

  • - WHAT I WANT TO TELL THE YOUNGER PEOPLE...

  • BE PROUD THAT YOU'RE AN ALEUT.

  • SOME PEOPLE CALL THOSE ISLANDS OUT THERE ROCKS.

  • THEY'RE MORE THAN ROCKS.

  • THEY'RE OUR HOME.

  • [APPLAUSE]

  • [DRUM QUIETLY BEATS STEADY PULSE]

  • - AS I WEAVE THIS ALEUT BASKET,

  • I'M USING MODERN MATERIAL.

  • IT'S ACTUALLY TELEPHONE WIRE.

  • BUT I'M USING A TECHNIQUE THAT IS MOST LIKELY THOUSANDS

  • OF YEARS OLD.

  • AND AS I LOOK BACK AT OUR HISTORY,

  • THAT'S WHAT IT'S ALL ABOUT.

  • WEAVING TIMES AND PLACES TOGETHER.

  • I THINK ABOUT THE LAYER UPON LAYER OF PEOPLE'S PASSAGES

  • HERE ON THE ISLAND...

  • THROUGH DIFFERENT ERAS FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS.

  • AND THE NEXT BASKET WE WEAVE...

  • WELL, IT'S GOING TO HAVE A BIT

  • OF EACH ONE OF THOSE INTERACTIONS.

  • I DON'T EVER COMPLETE A BASKET WITHOUT HAVING FIRST STARTED

  • ANOTHER ONE.

  • ALL OF MY BASKETS ARE REALLY ONE BASKET INTERLACED

  • AND WOVEN TOGETHER.

  • YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT THE RESULT IS GOING TO BE, BUT YOU JUST

  • KEEP WEAVING.

  • YOU JUST KEEP THINGS GOING THROUGH TIME FOR COMING

  • GENERATIONS THAT WE DON'T SEE YET.

  • [DRUM BEATS 3 TIMES]

  • [SINGING IN UNANGAM TUNUU]

  • - OVER HERE, YOU THINK IT'S FLAT?

  • - YEAH, YOU AND I MIGHT TUMBLE DOWN.

  • [LAUGHTER]

[THUNDER]

Subtitles and vocabulary

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