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  • I'm Dr Annie Gray, I'm a food historian but I also worked here at Audley End for many

  • years alongside the various Avis Crocombes. I wore clothing just like that of Mrs Crocombe

  • in the Victorian Way videos but that clothing was in itself modelled on the very clothing

  • that people at the time would have worn and that's what we're going to look at today.

  • Let's start with the basics: underwear. The first thing that Mrs Crocombe would have put

  • on in the morning were her drawers and then her stockings which were held up with garters.

  • Elastic of course hadn't yet been invented. Then Mrs Crocombe would have put her boots

  • on because it's very very hard to put your boots on after you've put your corset on,

  • trust me! So here were have boots, and then this which is called a chemise. It essentially

  • is a sort of night shirt affair, made out of linen which was very very absorbent so

  • that all the sweats and all of the various bodily fluids that were inevitably being pumped

  • out in the heat of the kitchen would be absorbed by the linen. It was washable, it would take

  • a lot of hard punishment as well. Then on top of the chemise, as you can see, Mrs Crocombe's

  • corset, the fundamental foundation garment of the Victorian woman. The corset's construction

  • for Mrs Crocombe is fairly simple. If Mrs Crocombe had been Lady Crocombe, or Lady Braybrooke

  • for example, her corset would have changed much much more throughout the decades of the

  • Victorian era, following fashion. Those people like Mrs Crocombe who were below stairs though

  • tended not to shift their figure in line with prevailing fashion quite so much. Down here

  • at the front you have a thing called a busk which tends to be of metal and is very very

  • tough. This gives you this nice smooth figure at the front, and then you've got whale bone

  • all the way around the sides. You can buy plastic substitutes for whale bone, and that's

  • what this one is constructed with. If we turn it round briefly you can see the way it works.

  • There is a set of laces up the back, these stay laced all the time. And then at the front

  • you've got these ties, these fasteners. The big advantage of an arrangement like this

  • is that a woman like Mrs Crocombe could have done up her own corset. Naturally Mrs Crocombe

  • didn't have anyone to help her dress but she could have got into this very quickly and

  • easily by herself. Next up we need to add some bulk. The Victorian figure in the 1880s

  • was one which had quite a wide hemline, again with working class women the basic figure

  • didn't change that much throughout a lot of the Victorian period. Crinolines for example

  • which came in for the upper classes in the 1850s which were big wire cages, were often

  • forbidden for use in the kitchens. Mistresses of grand houses didn't want their cooks looking

  • like they did. Some women wore many petticoats perhaps starched or with lots of pleats. This

  • is a very practical alternative. Our Mrs Crocombe does have to operate in the modern world and

  • get changed very quickly and do it all by herself often under stressful circumstances,

  • so this is the kind of permissible cheat which women at the time possibly would have used

  • and certainly is very very useful when you're interpreting history and food for the public.

  • You'll note that nearly everything ties up. It's a very practical solution. Buttons burst,

  • hooks come undone, but a tie like that is very very secure, will stay done up and is

  • very easy to do up as well. And more importantly perhaps, at the end of a 14 hour work day

  • it's very easy to just let it all drop to the floor, spring open your corset and breathe

  • a sigh of relief as you crawl into bed. Once this very simple petticoat is on it's time

  • to put the outer layer on: the gown. In houses like this there were not in the 1880s necessarily

  • uniforms for staff apart from those that appeared in front of guests: housemaids, butlers and

  • livery for the footmen. Below stairs in areas like this though where servants were not seen

  • it was much more common to have something like a print that perhaps the lady of the

  • house would give to her servants at Christmas as their Christmas gift to make into their

  • gowns. We know that sometimes zones were colour-coded as well. The reason for this was not just

  • because it looked pretty, but also so that the senior servants, the butler, the housekeeper

  • or Mrs Crocombe the cook, could look out of their window and immediately identify any

  • member of staff who was where they shouldn't be. This gown does up with a mixture of the

  • Victorian favourite, the hook and eye, and buttons. Because Mrs Crocombe was the cook,

  • and therefore of rather higher status than her maids, it also has a level of detail that

  • you might not find if you were to look at the maids' gowns. For example, she has this

  • rather sweet lace collar which could be removed and washed separately. Very very important

  • to always think about the practicality of washing. One of the biggest bugbears in women's

  • fashion today is that things don't have pockets. Well, Mrs Crocombe being a woman of some means

  • has put a pocket in her dress. She might use it for example to keep her spectacles in.

  • Finally of course Mrs Crocombe always wears a cap, as indeed did many other women. Certainly

  • lower status women would always tie their hair up. Her hair which would have been relatively

  • long would have been centre-parted, taken back behind her ears and then tied in a bun

  • at the back of her head. That bun was very important as it meant that the cap would stay

  • on with judicious use of a hairpin. Once more, the number of pleats on the cap reflects Mrs

  • Crocombe's status as the cook. If you were to look at one of the lower maids, they probably

  • wouldn't have quite as many pleats, certainly not as carefully sewn and not as well starched.

  • The final thing Mrs Crocombe needs is something all cooks keep in their belts at all times

  • in the kitchen: a handy cloth, again made of absorbent linen and again very washable.

  • It's absolutely vital in a 19th century kitchen like this because these cloths not only act

  • as general wiper-uppers and hand towels, but also as oven gloves. It's doubly vital when

  • working as our Mrs Crocombe does in an environment which is conserved like this. Spills of red

  • wine on the floor or things that are inappropriate on surfaces need to be wiped up as quickly

  • as possible, so from a practical point of view a cloth like this is vital because it

  • means that smears of choc-ices on furniture and cherries up the wall can be removed as

  • soon as possible so that we can continue to preserve this Victorian kitchen for future

  • generations. Excellent. Mrs Crocombe is dressed and ready to go!

I'm Dr Annie Gray, I'm a food historian but I also worked here at Audley End for many

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