They're gonna be taking a look here at the H G.

Try burning London now.

Of course, we're doing a review and everything on this.

This is gonna be a work in progress video, because I'm going to be repainting this kit for a custom commission.

Now, what I wanted to start with with this kid with you guys is just starting up with how to disassemble the get.

Because something that I get asked about fairly often is, uh how do you disassemble again for painting?

Or do you bother building a kid before you painting it before you paint it or some of their variation about that?

So I just wanted to share this with you guys so you can see this just once again for anyone who's maybe never see me do this in the previous video before.

But yes, what I normally do is to build the kit in full first and then disassemble it for painting on.

So, for a number of reasons, basically, the main reason is just that helps you to get a feel for the kid to just kind of understand how the parts fit together and that will help you with the painting process.

I think so.

Basically what to do with this kid is just disassemble it now and there are a couple of sea mines on here that we are gonna have to give it up so we'll go over how to remove those.

But for the most part, it's a pretty light kit.

When it comes to the steam lines, when there's just a couple of little ones, clear parts will also be a little careful of.

Of course, I'm not going to be repainting those, I don't think, although for now we just can start by disassembling the things.

So also, people are sometimes concerned when disassembling the kids that they may be.

You will lose the parts of the forget like which parts which like for example, this part came off.

Or like if you take this to the part off the side of the skirt there, if you have both of these parts off the side of this curtain, you camera.

Which one is for the left and which ones for the right.

If you get a mixed up well, you can be pretty usually pretty easily figured out by when you're trying to put the part back on there, and if it doesn't fit, then it's probably not the right one, right?

So I think that's also something people get a little bit too worked up about.

Sometimes that doesn't really need to be too much of an issue.

So I can basically just start separating this out now.

Like, for example, if I was gonna paint this in the Customs color scheme where I was like changing, for example, all the white parts to gray and then all the red parts to blue, I would just separate them, like so my white parts here on blue parts here like that just separate them out like that.

But this one doing the color scheme is gonna be a little bit different.

So basically, I just can separate these all just out by their color, for the time being, like so.

I know, for example, like the hand and join parts, all those parts that are kind of representing like the frame of the gun and even notices and h he obviously doesn't have a full frame.

But all those type of parts that are gonna be grey are still going to be basically gray for the main kiss.

So just assembling the parts and just organizing them by how I'm going to paint them just by color.

Even that doesn't really necessarily matter all that much at this point.

Because when I go to wash the parts, they're always gonna get mixed up again anyway.

But does that was to get an idea of the different parts and everything, and I'm gonna have to go in and do some standing on the parts just because the kid is all built up, but like the number moving everything on that wasn't like, really perfect.

And I just want to send us some of the parts on there as well.

So it's just a matter of breaking the kit down for now.

And then we'll identify areas that need more work, like you see mine removal.

All right.

So for the most part, here's everything separated out to clear blue of white, dark blue, red and yellow parts, great parts.

With the addition of this little blue pill part here on the front two there for the crotch.

I'm not sure if I'll keep in that in the same color as the other ones or not.

Anyway, the color scheme is not totally this idea, but what I wanted to show you guys first.

Here are just the problem parts or the parts that will need a some special consideration these parts here and the first of which is just the feet.

Not because there's a seam line on here, but just because these parts, for a little bit trickier to take apart.

Now I think the reason why a lot of people ask about disassembling kids before painting is because they're worried about disassembling process about breaking something.

And this these parts are particularly difficult to take apart just because of the way they fit.

And it's very likely that I'll end up breaking a peg when trying Thio safely dislodge these parts without damaging them too much.

So like I could go in and, like, try to pride us more with my knife or something or with some different tool.

I do have a part separator, but in this case it's not really gonna be all that useful just because of the way these parts fit together.

So if it's between, like trying to pry this up and then ending of damaging this area here.

And then I have to go back and fix that.

It's much more preferable to actually just break the peg if you have to.

Because on these parts there's always more than just the one peg.

So even if you break one, they're still others.

That will be totally fine as long as you've got one.

Even you don't even necessarily needed one pick between the two parts.

You know, I just glue them.

It's not really that big of a problem.

If you break any pigs, it's just another thing that you just have to not really worry too much about, because it happens.

Sometimes it's just gonna happen.

And so here we go.

So I was able to get them apart without breaking anything missing and see if this front peg on there would have broke it.

Still, has these two back pegs hold the part in place?

That wouldn't have been necessary.

Really?

Had also, uh, well, in good on that foot now.

All right, So are tricky areas here on the leg.

We're gonna have a little bit of an exposed Penhall line here on the front.

We're going to get rid of and then on the back, down here and up here as well.

Now, fortunately, this kid is designed in a way that the joints can be removed easily, and you don't need to worry about that on a lot of H G kids, though one of things with steam lines.

The problem is that you have to deal with the joints being locked in place if you remove the seam line.

Fortunately for this kid, that's not a problem.

The same thing here on the forearm got a little bit of a steam.

We're gonna have to get out of here at the front of the forearm, at the back of the form again up there and down here.

So it's basically just like with the lower leg and this one also.

Fortunately, you can remove the joint there easily without having to worry about that, so just removing those sea mines should be easy.

The 3rd 1 we need to worry about here is gone.

The shoulder.

Now it's just a little bit of a seam here at the end of the shoulder, so this one will be pretty easy to just like, uh, do some ed describe on that.

Just to turn that into a panel line or something on the top of the shoulder.

Easy enough.

And because you can lock that Polly cap in there, that's not a problem.

But locking this clear piece in there, you might not want to do that.

That said, that is really only there for plugging on this other clear piece under there, so I think it doesn't really necessarily matter that much of that part stays clear or not.

So what I'll probably do is I'll just prove that steam liner.

Just keep this all together, and this part won't be clear anymore.

Not a big deal, because this clear part's gonna go over the top of that anyway, so it doesn't really matter.

So all we gotta do is, uh some people will take the parts completely apart and then lay the glue on them and then put them back to get there for something like this.

It just need to split the part a little bit just so that you can get some space in between.

Just drop your thin cement in there, press it together, and then wait.

That's all.

There is to it, so that'll take.

I'd like to give it plenty of times cell.

Probably give that good at least 12 hours before I send that.

You could probably send it a little bit earlier than that.

And you could definitely wait longer if you wanted to, But I'm hoping that this will be ready to work on some more tomorrow for me.

So that should be good.

Just a matter of just putting a little glue in there.

You're on the form.

It is a little bit more of a problem because pressing these parts together, you'll see that they're just automatically pop back apart a little bit there.

And that's because of that Polly Captain there.

No.

Fortunately, polygraph doesn't really need to stay in there, so I can actually just pop that out as well.

And then, once this is all, seemed up, one of the seam lines removed.

Whatever.

If the poly cap is a little bit tight, doesn't quite fit in there or something like that.

I can always trim the poly, kept a little bit that's much easier, and then just pop it in there later on, rather than like I guess I could do it now.

Just try to turn the public up a little bit now until it fits well and then just lock the problems up in there with the steam.

But it's just not really necessary to do at this moment.

So glue here, a little glue there and a little glue up there.

So while those six parts need a little bit of time, Thio let the glue cure on those the rest of the parts I could get to sanding and prepping those.

So let's take a look at some of these parts that are gonna need a little bit of work.

So for a lot of my standing once again, I like to use these way of sanding sticks, and this one's pretty worn down.

That's okay.

I can still use it for a little while, at least for as long as I'm not standing anything to major on.

These are originally 406 100.

Great.

Sorry.

Yeah, now it's It's kind of worn down, probably closer to 800 or something like that.

Not pretty warning so you can see, like for this part for the foot, it looks okay.

And just at a glance thinking Well, it doesn't really need too much on there, but it's when we really look up closely thing and see that little bit of number there where it's just it's removed and like, Yeah, it looks fine, but it's not quite perfect.

If you can see it now, you're gonna be able to see it when there's paint on it, too, So you need to get rid of that.

And I wanted to also talk about mold lines on here and now it's fortunately or unfortunately, I don't know, unfortunately for me, because I wanted to illustrate this to you guys about mold lines on the darker color pieces, which are easier to see.

They don't really have much in the way of mold lines, like you can see a little bit right right there.

You could just stand that just to get rid of that little bold line on there.

Now, I don't think that actually, I think this is like part of the torso that won't actually even show anyway, so it probably doesn't matter, But just for the sake of showing you guys just want to make sure you get rid of those lines now.

Also on a lot of parts, too.

You'll have, like the hard edge, like the mold line is actually like along the actual edge of the parts.

So this edge of the top of this part is actually like, really sharp on.

I think it's usually better if you get rid of that.

Cause White Star Sharp is because there was a very slight like lip to the plastic their Soviet run your finger over.

You can feel that there's like that kind of sharpness to this edge.

And again, I think it just looks better when you just remove that ahead of time, because then once that's painted just going to not look as nice.

But again, with this particular part, this is gonna be up inside the torso and it's not gonna show it all.

I'll still stand that anyway.

But bold lines through your middle of their part is where it's gonna be a problem.

So I know it's gonna be hard to see because the white part.

But it's the best example we have with this kid.

There's this line going around this whole side of this thigh armor piece, so if you guys can see that again, if you can see it now, while the kid is unpainted here, is gonna be able to see it when the kid is painted.

So although it's hard to see because the party's white, you're still going to have to do your best to get rid of that line.

So again, it's just a matter of sanding to get rid of that mold line going around this part there.

All right, so this one is all Send it Now I know.

Hey, it's still gonna be hard to see, but hopefully you guys can see difference between sanded and unsound it Here.

You can still see that line a little bit on there now.

Other question that I'll have people asking sometimes is about the sanding processes.

How much of the kid do you really need to send?

And the question is, really how is really kind of up to you.

Don't necessarily need to sand anything, but the more you could sand, the better.

Your result is going to be so.

Basically, any surface that's gonna get paint tried to sand it is usually my rule for how I'm sending the kids.

No, I'm not worried about getting into, like, every single little nook and cranny, just all the major service's and like the top of the part here, the top part here.

Make sure you get like these edges here and just stand as much as you can.

And again, you're just going to be getting a better result in the end.

So I know it's tedious and boring and takes a long time, especially for longer kids with a lot more parts and a lot larger parts.

But it's just something that you just kind of had to be in the habit of doing.