Name: I changed my mind on using the BFGD Display... Here's why...
Uploaded: 2020-04-04T06:19:47.000Z
Duration: 15 min 47 s
Description: Thousands of YouTube videos with English-Chinese subtitles! Now you can learn to understand native speakers, expand your vocabulary, and improve your pronunciation...

Bring you a video about the panel I ended up using in here, which was my second most common question that I got asked, which is J.

Why did you use the ultra wide and not be FTV like you said you were going to use?

We talk about some of the specs on this, my personal opinion on it.

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Okay, so about seven months ago was something like that.

I said I was going to be using the B f g D as a centerpiece in my new gaming room.

And clearly I didn't do that because since then, the advancement and the updates coming to the L.

G C nine have made it the best of both worlds as a gaming panel for a game room or even H T p.

And also has all the color accuracy of Poland, plus weather less and all that sort of stuff.

So I'll probably do a separate piece about the C nine.

Although L G did do a campaign about that, I wasn't a part of it.

So I think it'll be an interesting perspective to see as somebody who spent retail on that how I feel about it.

But L G did send me this panel behind me, which is the 38 inch, ultra wide plus w qhd.

Plus we'll talk about that means in a second g l 9 50 g dash be So it is a Geesink panel, but it's 38 inches, so I felt like it really fit the gap between having a giant panel that I can't sit in front of because I'm far sighted and have to sit so far back.

This room would never make sense if I did that.

The 34 inch standard 21 by nine altar wine, which I've been using now for several years and gives me more screen, real estate and a few extra pixels.

So it's gonna start with some of the specs.

The reason why they call it a W Qhd plus is because is a 34 40 by 1600.

So there's an extra, what, 160 pixels tall?

It's 1600 very similar to a 16 by 10 panel, but only an ultra white version.

So one of the things I didn't like about 21 by nine panels, although I got used to it, was how it was really wide and really narrow.

It felt like I was looking through the periscope of a one M one Abrams tank, Um, but I eventually got used to it.

So now, having it be whiter and more screen real estate, just wolves.

It's just wider, right, but being a little bit taller, didn't give me a little extra real estate and made the panel feel less like I was looking through a periscope.

But it's bigger because I wanted a bigger panel.

I always used to use multi panel set ups.

In the past, I've used a single 21 by nine now.

I just wanted a little more space without taking up the room to put another panel on the desk.

So this the size of this panel was perfect for that.

Now, in terms of specs, they are calling it a 21 by nine, even though it's got that 1600 vertical height 38 40 by 1600 Nana I ps display.

So if you're not too sure about what I are, Nano cell is, and you can check out our original video.

We did several years ago about what Nano cell is, but basically it's an extra membrane layer between the pixel gate and the lighting source, which is giving you even more color accuracy.

P s panels well, so you can expect the color accuracy from that which happens to be DC I dash p 3 98% within one millisecond response time.

I don't have all the proper scopes and stuff to truly measure the one millisecond response time.

I can tell you right now in terms of using it, though, it doesn't feel like it has any sort of ghosting high response time panels yourself.

That's no higher than let's say, 10 milliseconds definitely has a bit of a trailing right.

You move the mouse, you see kind of, ah, like a comet trail behind there.

That's not something that I've been experiencing with this panel.

When you don't deal with the over clocking, we'll talk about that in a sec because when it comes over, clocking it is a 144 Hertz panel over clock, a bore over driveable toe 175 hertz to base a display 101 100 HDR 400 was fear lighting to point out and video Geesink pretty straightforward.

When you're running it at the standard 144 or less, you actually get 444 color space when you over clock it to 175 hurts.

So What you're having to sacrifice when you go from 144 hurts to a faster overdrive is you lose color accuracy, which, in my opinion, kind of takes away the whole point of having an I.

So at the price point that this panel is, we'll talk about that at the end.

In my opinion, I'm actually running this 120 hertz.

Um, I didn't We did that video about whether or not we could tell the difference between 1 2144 I find 1 20 to be about the sweet spot.

If you leave vertical sync or G synchrony that stuff on and then we have it sort of lock it at the refresh rate.

It takes a little bit of a workload off of the G pews.

Plus, I don't notice a difference anyway, so I personally leave it there.

I did play around 175 hurts, though it I could tell you what starts to happen with that pixel overdrive is you start to get really bad chromatic aberration as well as kind of a pink halo ing around the pixels, also to the faster that you run it because of the color space.

Like I said, text also starts to look pretty bad.

I don't see the reason to go to 175 hurts.

I know some people have gone as high as 200 hurts now on ultra wides.

Um, I don't think pro gamers that would want to 100 to 244 higher playing on ultra wide anyway.

So it's kind of a weird tradeoff that they made their.

It's, I guess, cool that you could do it.

But the what you sacrifice in terms of getting next to refresh rate totally not worth it.

So it is HDR 400 which means that you're going to get some of the extra stops, the dynamic range, which is gonna bring you more details in the lowlights and more details in the highlights.

I don't tend to game with HDR on very often, but it's nice that it has it for if you're watching movies or Netflix is up on your screen.

But you know it's one those things where you have to have it on or off at all times, so I basically just leave it off personally.

But again, at the price point, having HDR is at least worth it, We'll talk a little bit more about the HDR in a second.

When I get to the pros and cons section, there's one other feature in this panel called their sphere Lighting two point.

Oh, so it does have a ring light on the back of the panel, which is what actually illuminating the wall behind me, not just the desk.

It does have the basic colors that has, like white red, I think, orange science types of colors, which I do have set to match my desk.

Right now, it does have a disco RGB mode, which is rather bright.

Fortunately, it's got a scroll wheel in the bottom so you can quickly turn it down or turn it up in terms of brightness.

But it also has sort of an ambient mode where we'll see what's happening on the screen, and it will project those colors on the back wall, making your panel a bit more immersive.

Um, it kind of brings your lighting to a real life, if you will.

It's been kind of the The thing people have done lately with the home entertainment centers is just using kind of ambient light.

You makes one so it does that automatically if you want it to you.

So if you're gaming on such a bring a little bit extra level of immersion to it now, when you turn the panel off by default, the light will statelet unless you go into the menu settings and have it turn off when the panel goes to sleep.

One thing I've noticed with this panel, though and again lots of settings.

Sometimes, even if you're using the panel, um, it will automatically want to shut itself off after so many hours.

Even if you're using, you know, playing the game or using the computer it's on, Then you'll have to go in there and kind of like push a button and say, Don't turn off, which is not that big of a deal, but I tend to have to turn it.

I leave that function on because I walk away from a computer all the time and I don't want a burning up power so will automatically turn itself off.

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