Bring you a video about the panel I ended up using in here, which was my second most common question that I got asked, which is J.

Why did you use the ultra wide and not be FTV like you said you were going to use?

So today we're gonna talk about that.

We talk about some of the specs on this, my personal opinion on it.

And then we will, um, do that.

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Okay, so about seven months ago was something like that.

I said I was going to be using the B f g D as a centerpiece in my new gaming room.

And clearly I didn't do that because since then, the advancement and the updates coming to the L.

G C nine have made it the best of both worlds as a gaming panel for a game room or even H T p.

C.

And also has all the color accuracy of Poland, plus weather less and all that sort of stuff.

So I'll probably do a separate piece about the C nine.

Although L G did do a campaign about that, I wasn't a part of it.

I bought my C nine.

So I think it'll be an interesting perspective to see as somebody who spent retail on that how I feel about it.

But L G did send me this panel behind me, which is the 38 inch, ultra wide plus w qhd.

Plus we'll talk about that means in a second g l 9 50 g dash be So it is a Geesink panel, but it's 38 inches, so I felt like it really fit the gap between having a giant panel that I can't sit in front of because I'm far sighted and have to sit so far back.

This room would never make sense if I did that.

Moving to something now that's bigger.

The 34 inch standard 21 by nine altar wine, which I've been using now for several years and gives me more screen, real estate and a few extra pixels.

So it's gonna start with some of the specs.

The reason why they call it a W Qhd plus is because is a 34 40 by 1600.

So there's an extra, what, 160 pixels tall?

Is that being 14 40 tall?

It's 1600 very similar to a 16 by 10 panel, but only an ultra white version.

So one of the things I didn't like about 21 by nine panels, although I got used to it, was how it was really wide and really narrow.

The height was really short on.

It felt like I was looking through the periscope of a one M one Abrams tank, Um, but I eventually got used to it.

So now, having it be whiter and more screen real estate, just wolves.

The screen will say it's the same.

It's just wider, right, but being a little bit taller, didn't give me a little extra real estate and made the panel feel less like I was looking through a periscope.

But it's bigger because I wanted a bigger panel.

I always used to use multi panel set ups.

In the past, I've used a single 21 by nine now.

For a long time.

I just wanted a little more space without taking up the room to put another panel on the desk.

So this the size of this panel was perfect for that.

Now, in terms of specs, they are calling it a 21 by nine, even though it's got that 1600 vertical height 38 40 by 1600 Nana I ps display.

So if you're not too sure about what I are, Nano cell is, and you can check out our original video.

We did several years ago about what Nano cell is, but basically it's an extra membrane layer between the pixel gate and the lighting source, which is giving you even more color accuracy.

But it is an I.

P s panels well, so you can expect the color accuracy from that which happens to be DC I dash p 3 98% within one millisecond response time.

I don't have all the proper scopes and stuff to truly measure the one millisecond response time.

I can tell you right now in terms of using it, though, it doesn't feel like it has any sort of ghosting high response time panels yourself.

That's no higher than let's say, 10 milliseconds definitely has a bit of a trailing right.

You move the mouse, you see kind of, ah, like a comet trail behind there.

That's not something that I've been experiencing with this panel.

When you don't deal with the over clocking, we'll talk about that in a sec because when it comes over, clocking it is a 144 Hertz panel over clock, a bore over driveable toe 175 hertz to base a display 101 100 HDR 400 was fear lighting to point out and video Geesink pretty straightforward.

When you're running it at the standard 144 or less, you actually get 444 color space when you over clock it to 175 hurts.

That drops down to 4 to 2.

So What you're having to sacrifice when you go from 144 hurts to a faster overdrive is you lose color accuracy, which, in my opinion, kind of takes away the whole point of having an I.

P.

S, especially in an SL i.

P s panel.

So at the price point that this panel is, we'll talk about that at the end.

Um, a kind of is not a good trade off.

In my opinion, I'm actually running this 120 hertz.

Um, I didn't We did that video about whether or not we could tell the difference between 1 2144 I find 1 20 to be about the sweet spot.

If you leave vertical sync or G synchrony that stuff on and then we have it sort of lock it at the refresh rate.

It takes a little bit of a workload off of the G pews.

Plus, I don't notice a difference anyway, so I personally leave it there.

I did play around 175 hurts, though it I could tell you what starts to happen with that pixel overdrive is you start to get really bad chromatic aberration as well as kind of a pink halo ing around the pixels, also to the faster that you run it because of the color space.

Like I said, text also starts to look pretty bad.

I don't see the reason to go to 175 hurts.

I know some people have gone as high as 200 hurts now on ultra wides.

Um, I don't think pro gamers that would want to 100 to 244 higher playing on ultra wide anyway.

So it's kind of a weird tradeoff that they made their.

It's, I guess, cool that you could do it.

But the what you sacrifice in terms of getting next to refresh rate totally not worth it.

Maybe it issue, but it's not to me.

So it is HDR 400 which means that you're going to get some of the extra stops, the dynamic range, which is gonna bring you more details in the lowlights and more details in the highlights.

I don't tend to game with HDR on very often, but it's nice that it has it for if you're watching movies or Netflix is up on your screen.

But you know it's one those things where you have to have it on or off at all times, so I basically just leave it off personally.

But again, at the price point, having HDR is at least worth it, We'll talk a little bit more about the HDR in a second.

When I get to the pros and cons section, there's one other feature in this panel called their sphere Lighting two point.

Oh, so it does have a ring light on the back of the panel, which is what actually illuminating the wall behind me, not just the desk.

It does have the basic colors that has, like white red, I think, orange science types of colors, which I do have set to match my desk.

Right now, it does have a disco RGB mode, which is rather bright.

In fact, the led is extremely bright.

Fortunately, it's got a scroll wheel in the bottom so you can quickly turn it down or turn it up in terms of brightness.

But it also has sort of an ambient mode where we'll see what's happening on the screen, and it will project those colors on the back wall, making your panel a bit more immersive.

Um, it kind of brings your lighting to a real life, if you will.

It's been kind of the The thing people have done lately with the home entertainment centers is just using kind of ambient light.

I know it.

Phillips.

You makes one so it does that automatically if you want it to you.

So if you're gaming on such a bring a little bit extra level of immersion to it now, when you turn the panel off by default, the light will statelet unless you go into the menu settings and have it turn off when the panel goes to sleep.

One thing I've noticed with this panel, though and again lots of settings.

You go into the menu and play with it.

Sometimes, even if you're using the panel, um, it will automatically want to shut itself off after so many hours.

Even if you're using, you know, playing the game or using the computer it's on, Then you'll have to go in there and kind of like push a button and say, Don't turn off, which is not that big of a deal, but I tend to have to turn it.

I leave that function on because I walk away from a computer all the time and I don't want a burning up power so will automatically turn itself off.

And you could just turn it back on.

Let's talk about some of the build here for a second.

It's a thick boy just like me.

It is about an inch thick when you measure it at the edge.

Now courage panels a little bit different, although the curve is very subtle on this panel.

Fortunately, the first curve panels that came out, man, they were trying to make those wraparound screen so that, you know, like like you go to those three D theaters or whatever, and it's got the screen all around.

Fortunately, we've got away from that.

We're all we've done now with the curve on something this big is just make it subtle so that it doesn't have any sort of color shift when looks the panel.

Although this panel wouldn't suffer from color ship from an off Ewing access anyways, because it's got 100 and 78 degrees of viewable range, that's because its I P s at the top.

There's event.

We're lighting dust like shine through, but it's also read in there.

Unfortunately, you can't see it.

I think LG's feels just obligated to put red in anything that they call their gaming stuff.

Even the base has read in it, but it's on the back, so you can't really see it.

I think that's their way of saying Reds are color for gaming.

We're gonna put it in there whether you like it or not, even if you can't see it.

But whatever I digress, I obviously have it mounted to an arm.

This is a cheap Amazon arm from a company called Mount It.

So Original right?

But it holds the way to the panel just fine.

As you can see, it articulates, it rotates.

I'm happy with it, and I think it cost me like 50 bucks or something like that.

With being invasive 101 100.

You have lots of options when it comes to mounting on the back of the panel, you have your input.

Now put from LG Display Port.

It's got HTM I.

It's got two USB three point O's with a hub connection on there, so you've got to use a standard USB large USB connection to a PC, which I'm using a 10 foot cable on.

So I plugged my Webcam stuff into the back of the monitor.

When I'm using it, I unplug it and stow it when I'm not, um so that's pretty convenient without having extra cables there.

I've got the power breaking, everything running through the arm.

So as you can see, it's floating without any cables hanging down, which is pretty awesome on the back with inside that ring light is event as well.

There is a fan inside of this panel helping keep it cool.

I've seen some complaints of people saying the fan made of squealing noise noise over time.

So far, I've never even heard the fan.

I didn't even know I had a fan until I started looking into that.

That comment.

It definitely seems like a very well thought out panel.

Let's go and talk about some of the things I'm not a huge fan off when it comes to the H D R H D R 400 is pretty much the weakest HBR that you can get.

I mean, HDR 1000 is kind of like the standard when it comes to TVs and such.

The actual brightness of this panel is 450 CD, typical 360 CD minimum.

So it's not a super bright panel, which is fine for me.

Like I said, I leave HDR off in most instances because there's two problems here, and this is more personal and subjective.

But with HR 400 being the weakest of the HD are standard, Um, that means the details in the lows and details in the highs, which would normally clip or be well, at a range and turn toe white or turn to black.

There, there, they're weak as it is.

The details just aren't there.

It puts while they are there, but there's still hard to see.

It puts a little bit of an extra strain on the jeep.

You two have HDR enabled, so I tend to not leave it.

On the flip side, the panels at R.

H.

D R 1000 which have taken a look at we have G d B.

One of them.

Um, it's too bright.

Just completely blast your face with light.

Ah, that's why I tend to just leave it off and leave everything in standard color are standard.

S d str There we go standard the dynamic range.