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  • It's time to tear down the iPhone X.

  • This video will show the basic screen replacement, along with how I swap out the uniquely shaped

  • battery inside of Apple's newest flagship.

  • Accidents happen, and things wear out and break.

  • So it's good to know to how get things back up and running.

  • Let's get started.

  • [Intro]

  • Getting into this phone is pretty similar to the iPhone 7 and iPhone 8, but it does

  • get a bit easier once you are inside.

  • The same familiar two pentalobe screws are at the bottom of the phone.

  • I'll have a little tool kit linked in the video description for you, along with all

  • the parts needed to complete these replacements.

  • After getting these two screws out, I like to warm up the screen a little by softening

  • the ip67 water-resistant adhesive under the iPhone 10 display.

  • I'll use a suction cup and a pry tool to lift up on the glass a little and get my metal

  • pry tool between the plastic edge of the screen and the metal edge of the frame.

  • Then I can slice along the edge of the phone, just underneath the glass, to detach the rest

  • of the adhesive.

  • When the screen is mostly free, it doesn't pull down this time to unlock, but instead

  • just folds right open like a book.

  • The ribbons you see on the right side of the phone are extremely fragile, so don't put

  • any pressure on them.

  • Apple did simplify the process with only one metal bracket this time, which is nice of

  • them.

  • Still using the same y triple zero screws as previous iPhones.

  • I'll remove the 5 screws holding that metal plate down and then keep them organized off

  • to the side because they definitely need to go back in the same hole they came out of.

  • It was also nice of Apple to put all the connectors in one solitary row for us here in the center.

  • The connectors we care about during this video are first, the battery connector.

  • Making sure to use a plastic pry tool when lifting this off as to not short out the battery.

  • Then we can detach the two screen ribbons, one at the bottom right, and the other at

  • the bottom left side of the connector row.

  • And the last guy is for the earpiece and microphone.

  • This also detaches like a little Lego from the motherboard.

  • And here is the screen.

  • Quite a bit simpler design now that we don't have the fingerprint scanner at the bottom.

  • These OLED displays are definitely going to be more expensive than the LCD iPhone screens

  • of the past just because the part itself costs a lot more.

  • I'll have the current pricing in the description like always.

  • It does fluctuate with time and will get cheaper as the phone gets older.

  • The new screens will probably not come with the earpiece attached, so there are 3 more

  • screws when you transfer over.

  • I'll pull these out, being careful to keep track of the little gold niblet on the top

  • screw.

  • Then I can fold the speaker down and away, allowing me to pull up the microphone and

  • the other small sensors.

  • These ribbons are extremely fragile, so go slow and be careful.

  • Now that I have the speaker out, it really does depend on how the new screens ship, but

  • you might also need to transfer over some of the clear plastics, but that's not too

  • big of a deal.

  • Historically, Apple has not made things easy for people trying to fix their own phones.

  • With the old error 51 and fingerprint scanner hardware issues, they've made things pretty

  • complicated.

  • But with this screen we shouldn't have any issues.

  • All of the phone's face unlocking hardware is still tied to the phone and not a part

  • of the display, so thumbs up for that.

  • With only the display and digitizer connectors left on the screen, we should be safe.

  • I'll put the screen back together before jumping onto the battery replacement portion of this

  • video.

  • It's pretty straightforward with all of the sensors going in the same slots they came

  • out of and then the earpiece speaker folding over back on top of them.

  • There's the three y triple zero screws holding everything in place.

  • Make sure to get that gold niblet back on that center screw.

  • I'm not sure exactly what it does, but it's probably important.

  • Remember, the display is one of the most expensive parts of this phone, so be nice to it.

  • Now let's take a shot at removing the oddly shaped battery.

  • Since the screen is already off and the battery disconnected, I'll grab the first magical

  • pull tab at the top of the battery and slowly pull it out from underneath.

  • These are very fragile, so go slow, plus that sound is delicious.

  • At the bottom of the battery there are 3 more stubby pull tabs.

  • These are hard to get at, but if you have a pair of wide tip tweezers, that would be

  • ideal.

  • With my needle tips I'll just grab the edge and then pull it out as best I can with my

  • fingers.

  • If you do fail at pulling out the magical pull tabs, you'll have to commence the Pry

  • of Shame.

  • Another trick that might help out is to grab the tweezers and twist the pull tab around

  • the tip of the tweezers to get a better grip.

  • And now the battery is out and this is the most unique battery I've ever seen inside

  • of a cellphone.

  • Kind of interesting design choice.

  • Hopefully the replacements aren't too expensive.

  • Like always, I'll have them linked in the video description.

  • Below the battery we can see the wireless charging and the metal frame of the phone.

  • If you're replacing your own battery, you'll want to use some double sided tape to keep

  • things from jiggling around.

  • Personally, I'm going to be opening this phone up more in the future, so I'm skipping my

  • adhesive for now.

  • With the battery in place and the 3 ribbons coming from the screen I'll reattach to that

  • center connector bridge, I can finally plug in the battery.

  • It goes in last just to be safe.

  • I'll test the phone out before adding that metal plate just to make sure everything is

  • working.

  • If there are lines going through your display, or it's gray, or nothing shows up, it might

  • just be a bad connection.

  • Re-seat those little Lego connectors and try again.

  • My phone is turned back off and the metal plate slides into place with it's five screws.

  • All of these are different sizes so they need to go back in the same hole they came from.

  • Finally the phone can fold shut just like a little book and clip down into place.

  • And everything is still working.

  • I'll toss the bottom two pentalobe screws back in and it's ready to go.

  • If you enjoyed this video, or if it helped you out, hit that subscribe button and come

  • hang out with me on Twitter and Instagram.

  • Let me know in the comments if you have any questions.

  • And thanks a ton for watching.

  • I'll see you around.

It's time to tear down the iPhone X.

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