Name: The Secrets of Snowboard Carving Part II - The Interface
Uploaded: 2024-11-16T04:03:46.000Z
Duration: 30 min 38 s
Description: Thousands of YouTube videos with English-Chinese subtitles! Now you can learn to understand native speakers, expand your vocabulary, and improve your pronunciation...

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Now you're probably wondering, what the heck is the interface?

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Was that just clickbait? Well, the answer is no.

The interface is everything that goes between your body and your snowboard.

I'm talking about boots, bindings, risers, and the specific way you set these things up.

But first, we're going to answer the age-old question that's been burning in everybody's mind.

First thing I want you to notice is that the buckle and the ladder on my back toe are reversed.

This makes sure that there's nothing there that's going to drag, minimizes my overhang on the toe side, and, as you just saw, helps me get out in one motion looking super smooth.

This is a standard Driver X with a handful of custom modifications I'm going to show you right now.

First thing is I've got two straps, cinching it all together, adding some stiffness.

The reason I use two is so that I can tighten this one, and then tighten this one, and then go back and get even more stiffness out of it.

On the best days, the perfect corduroy, there's almost no limit to how stiff I want my interface to be.

But, you know, if it gets bumpy rough, okay, I'm going to back it off a little bit for sure.

I need some mobility to absorb those imperfections.

Next thing I have in here is a custom boot stiffener.

These are not quite available yet on the market, but I'm working on it, hopefully soon.

This is a custom liner actually from a snowboard race boot.

What it's got is a hard plastic tongue in the front, adding more stiffness, meaning I can push further into the front of my boot, into the tongue.

Now there's a reason why the top-of-the-line snowboard boot is about $600.

Whereas a top-of-the-line ski boot is around $1200.

So when you get your snowboard boots, first thing you should do is throw those liners away.

Get yourself something in this style, is what I recommend.

Some people like the intuition wraps, it's not for me.

I like that hard plastic tongue in the front.

I actually go to my local boot fitter, because every time they sell a boot, they rip out the liners and throw them in a pile and sell them a custom foam-molded liner, right?

So $50, and I walk away with a high-quality liner with the plastic in the front.

But I recommend those for comfort. They can help a lot.

This one is actually Ryan Napton's idea, and I really like it.

I have in my front boot a shin guard for volleyball.

Just put right against the back here to just add a little bit of extra leverage on heel side.

Like my jacket? This is from Skyline Outerwear.

These guys are at the cutting edge of design, construction, and materials for snowboarding outerwear.

It's all made by snowboarders for snowboarders.

There's a 30% off discount code in the description.

Also, I got a little kickback for anybody who uses this code, and I promise you every dime that I make, I'm going to put towards prototyping boards.

Now, I've already done years of prototyping.

I have the boards that I want to be riding.

I'm working now on the boards you want to be riding.

Yeah, so buy a jacket, help support the cause, help support the industry, help support carving.

I have here a set of Flow NX2 Carbon Fusion.

I have a Now O-Drive, and I have a Drake Podium FF.

We're going to assess these bindings and a couple others that I don't have in the room on four factors.

The first one is the BO factor, the boot-out factor.

It basically refers to the length that the binding is adding to the boot.

We're going to talk about that momentarily.

The next most important factor is the performance of the binding, which is very closely correlated with things like stiffness, response, and the connection to the board.

The third factor is comfort, which I deem less important because, you know, sometimes you've got to sacrifice comfort for performance.

And the fourth factor is the quality or the longevity, how long this binding is going to last you.

It turns out every binding breaks in with time.

They might seem very stiff out of the box, but like your boots, you know, give it 20, 40 days, and it's not the same anymore.

You can see right here there's some small distance between the square and the toe of the boot.

And in the back here, there's actually a fair bit of distance I can fit a whole finger in.

So every millimeter of length that I'm adding onto the boot is a millimeter extra I have to put into my waist width.

And I'm already maxing out a bunch of my suppliers, so I don't really have that room in the waist.

Riding a lower BO factor binding means you can ride a less wide board.

Yeah, let's look at these bindings as measured.

So all I'm doing here is I'm putting the boot against the block.

I'm marking it, then I'm putting the boot in the binding, putting it against the block, marking it again, moving the block, doing it again.

I think we have five bindings. Results are in the end.

You can see through those measurements that this Flux XV is going to add 14 millimeters, 1.4 centimeters to the length of your boot, versus this Flow NX2, which you can see adds zero in the back.

And zero in the front. It hits the boot, not the binding, back and front.

So again, that's 14 millimeters I can take out of the waist of my board.

Let's look at some other things here before we start assessing these bindings.

I want to talk a little bit about canting and lifting.

So what I've done here is I've added some strips of rubber along the right side of my front boot, about a quarter inch.

And then I've added another layer across the toe of my front boot, again a quarter inch.

So what I'm doing is I'm lifting the toe and I'm canting inward.

The back binding will be similar. We're canting inward, but I lift the heel.

This kind of position just gets me much more comfortable, balances me better, I have no pain in the hip, and I find it a more aggressive, better stance for carving.

Now this one already has, I believe, four degrees of inward canting.

So I only had to add a little strip under the toe for the front foot, and then under the heel in the back foot.

So every time I do this to a set of bindings, it's a custom job.

Every binding is different, every base plate has different requirements.

I need to be able to access the screws and take them out, so it's always a little awkward.

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The Secrets of Snowboard Carving Part II - The Interface

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