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Welcome to ZOE science and nutrition,
where world-leading scientists, explain how their research can improve your health.
Kanchan Koya grew up in a house filled with wonderful fragrances
from the spices simmering on her grandmother's stove.
In India, it was a common belief that spices were more than just pleasant tastes.
Ancient wisdom said they had medicinal properties and it was common for household medicine cabinets
to store dried spices and not pills. Kanchan grew up to become a molecular biologist
studying in the US at Harvard medical school. When her lab began to investigate turmeric's
healing properties, the ancient wisdom from her childhood met the scientific
inquiry of her adult life beginning a lifelong obsession with the health benefits of spice.
In today's show, she helps us understand whether there is any scientific evidence to support the
health benefits of spices. The easiest way to add spice to our diet and which ones to choose. We're
also joined by regular guest, Tim Spector, one of the world's top 100 most cited scientists, and my
scientific co-founder at ZOE to help understand why spices might be improving our health.
Kanchan and Tim, thank you for joining me today.
Why don't we start with our usual quickfire round of questions from our listeners and start
with can Kanchan? Kanchan, are there spices that I can eat to improve my health?
Yes. Should I be giving spices to my children?
Yes. Is there any
evidence that spices can help with menopause?
I am not sure. Brilliant. We'll come
back to all of those a bit later. And Tim can spice reduce inflammation.
Yes. Do spices affect my gut microbiome?
Yes, definitely. Can spices count towards my
target of 30 plants a week? Yes, they absolutely can.
All right. That's a lot more yeses than normal, but I think everyone's like, wow,
this stuff actually does something. And, let's go and sort of dig into that all in a bit more
detail. And maybe we could just start right at the beginning Kanchan, what is a spice?
Right. Fantastic question. So I'm actually going to summarize from a research paper because I
knew that question was gonna come up, in the international journal of molecular sciences,
which basically says that the leaf, root, bark, berry, bud, seed, and stigma of a
plant or flower used for purposes of cooking are commonly referred to as herbs and spices.
So that's the formal, scientific definition of an herb or a spice.
Got it. And it sounds quite broad. So, I think spinach is a leaf, isn't it? But
I don't think my wife would accept that I was adding spices if I added spinach to my meal.
So I guess in day-to-day usage, is there anything, that would identify, you know,
when you are cooking, what defines that as... Maybe separating a herb and a spice?
Yeah, definitely. So when I think of spices versus herbs, I really do think of the root,
the bark, the bud, the seed. And then when you start talking about the leaves,
I think more of herbs, either fresh or dried. And so when you think of spices, the difference
between them and other sort of plant foods that we eat on a regular basis is really that they're
often quite concentrated and traditionally have been used to enhance the flavor of food.
And of course, some ancient medical systems also enhance the health properties of food.
So that's kind of how I would think about spices versus, you know, other foods that we eat.
And somehow they always seem quite concentrated when I think about spices, right? They're in a
small little jar, as opposed to the quantities of food I tend to eat for anything else to give
me flavor. Is that universal across spices? Yes, they do tend to be concentrated and used in
smaller amounts. And I think it's a really good point because for a lot of people,
that brings up the question, well, if they're used in such small culinary amounts, how can
they possibly really have benefits of meaning, versus, eating a giant plate of sort of leafy
greens or a huge plate of steam broccoli, you do have to wonder would a sprinkling of this or
that spice really make a difference? And I guess that's what we're gonna talk about today.
I think that is exactly the question. And maybe I'd love to do it a little bit
through your own story because we talked before this call about your own passion
for spices and how it began. How have you ended up with your whole focus on spice?
Yeah. So I grew up in India for the first 18 years of my life. As several listeners might know, India
is obsessed with spice, the spice box, or the Dabba, it's called in India, is really an integral
part of every Indian household's kitchen. But it's also an integral part of every Indian family sort
of pharmacy and by pharmacy, I mean the F-A-R-M, farmacy, natural medicinal foods that we eat,
the ancient Indian medical system of Ayurveda has really revered spices and really put a lot of
weight on their potential health benefits. So I grew up with a lot of that ancient
wisdom just sort of passed down by my family, my grandma, that sort of thing.
And then, to be honest, didn't think much of it. In fact, I thought it was a bunch of
maybe woo-woo. Not really valid. I was sort of a scientist, I wanted to do serious science.
So I came to the US to study. I found myself at Harvard medical
school doing my Ph.D. in molecular cancer biology, and my lab at the Dana-Farber Cancer
Institute actually started to study various polyphenols and plant-based compounds in a screen
against breast cancer in vitro in cells. And one of the compounds on the screen was curcumin.
And I was collaborating on this project with a postdoc and he said: "oh, look! You know,
turmeric is one of the compounds in the screen or curcumin, the bioactive from turmeric." And
it was definitely a real aha moment for me because I think I had sort of
discounted or not really paid attention to a lot of this wisdom that I grew up with.
And here I was at a research institution that was starting to look at some of these
polyphenols found in spices and it just planted a seed for me that maybe there is something to these
ancient components in food that is now being validated by modern science and then fast forward
to sort of when I became a mother. And started to give my son spices in his baby food. And I had a
lot of questions from my other mommy friends here in New York City as to whether that was even legal
or allowed. And it just got the wheels turning in my mind about how maybe I could educate people
about spices and really as a gateway into this world of food for health and food for
micronutrient enhancement. And that led to the platform that is now a Spice Spice Baby.
That's amazing. And so what do we know about how spices affect our health?
Right. That's the million-dollar question. So, you know, for a long time, we had a lot of evidence,
mostly in vitro, sometimes dubious, not in the best journals,
looking at the properties of these polyphenols or phytochemicals found in spices.
So these are individual compounds that have been studied in different spices,
and they're often looked at, for their properties in a test tube on cells, and their antioxidant
capacities, there was a growing body of evidence that spices contained these compounds. These
compounds seemed to have benefits in vitro, and then there were small studies here and there.
Not the best sort of done, not the largest sample sizes, that were starting to show some benefits,
like the ability to regulate blood sugar in the case of cinnamon or, you know,
some other anti-inflammatory spices, like turmeric, their ability to block inflammation
or at least reduce or regulate inflammation. And for a long time, I just told people. We
have so much growing evidence in vitro that these things can be helpful. There's really
no downside to using them. We're waiting for more human kind of control, randomized control
data. So in the meanwhile, let's just enjoy them because they make our food really delicious.
And there's really no downside. And there might be a health benefit, but I will say
in the last few years, we have started to see some better studies in humans that have given me
a lot more sort of optimism about the true benefit of these components in culinary
amounts. So very often the studies in the past looked at very concentrated doses of spices
and things that would be hard to achieve in culinary amounts. And now we have studies saying,
you know, what, a teaspoon of a spice blend in sort of a junky high fat high refined carbohydrate
meal may actually be able to regulate inflammation after that meal. And we can get into some of these
studies, but I think now we're really starting to see more evidence that in addition to the in vitro
characteristics of these polyphenols, there might actually be real benefits in culinary amounts.
And Tim, you are normally the first to be skeptical about a
pervading view of food. So on spices? When you look at the studies in general,
you do see lots of papers. You're getting multiple papers from countries like Iran or
Pakistan or places that aren't really high up in the Western view of science that is
looking after their own spices and perhaps paid by the government to write these papers that are
down 20 or 30 people that wouldn't normally meet the quality you'd find in the top journals. So it
is hard to assess these, they're often paid by the manufacturers just like happens in other areas of
food, like, you know, giant nut conglomerates, et cetera, doing the same thing.
So I think we do have to be skeptical about the actual literature. But as Kanshan says, you know,
we've got good theoretical reasons to believe it. And what we do lack is really rigorous studies in
large numbers of people. So we do need though, a leap of faith to go from the fact that these
spices and herbs are, are actually packed with the things that we know are good for our bodies.
From other experiments and take the few good studies that we have got and, and extrapolate
them. So we should maybe look at some of these claims, some of the more extreme claims that
you know, for example, you know, I took this turmeric powder and was completely cured of cancer
with a very large pinch of spices. But at the same time, realize that you know,
these things might have a place in helping all these things along. And that that's the middle
ground between the extreme claims and they don't work at all is, is where I think most
food experts are seeing this. And luckily the last few years, we have seen more rigorous studies
in a few of these areas. And I think the fact that we can now
start to measure things like the gut microbiome effects gives us a way of looking, in short term
at practical ways of doing these studies, rather than waiting for people to do impossible studies,
to do, you know, waiting to get cancer or heart disease or whatever, and taking spices or not,
which would take an impossible length of time. So we are moving in that direction. And
there are a few examples that I'm sure Kanchan and I can come to discuss that we'll highlight.
And I'll just add one thing, along the lines of what Tim was saying, you know, I think
many people look to spices or other sort of superfoods, as these magic
bullet solutions for health problems. And I think if you step back and look at the data
from a sort of a larger lens, it really is about certain dietary patterns. And I think this emerges
for any healthy food. So it's not about, you know, overloading on turmeric for inflammation control.
It's about following a dietary pattern that we know in an evidence-based way is gonna support
healthy inflammation and then incorporating a polyphenol-rich spice like turmeric.
I really see that as the approach versus the sort of like, what should I take
every day in copious amounts to solve my problem. And I think there's when the
dubious claims really start to come in. So Kanchan, will you tell us a bit about the
latest science, because it sounds like there have been some really interesting papers
just in the last few years that have really lifted above what's been there in the past
and I think it would be, without scaring us away, with too much of the science,
what has that actually been telling us? Yeah. So for a long time, we had a lot
of evidence, as I was saying that spices contain these anti-inflammatory compounds
that seem to affect different players and inflammation. So inflammation is a really
complex kind of molecular symphony cascade and the body with lots of different players.
And the cool thing is. The different components in different spices, at least in vitro seem to be
hitting different components in inflammation. So potentially having a synergistic effect, working
together and a team at Penn state university just last year actually said, Hey, since most people
don't eat a single spice in isolation. Especially in cultures that have traditionally used spices,
they're often used as spice blends. And given we know that different spices have different
compounds that might work in concert. Why don't we make a blend and test it in humans to see what
it does to markers of inflammation? So this was a blend and this is, you know, to Tim's point about
this kind of reductionist view versus a more holistic view, the blend contained, I'm gonna
list the spices really quickly, just to give you a sense of how many spices were in the blend.
They were obviously trying to create a research study that was likely gonna give them some
results. And so the blend had turmeric, ginger, cinnamon, coriander, cumin, red pepper,