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  • Ah, the great British banger.

  • Or the lovely salami.

  • Or the battered saveloy.

  • Hang on, just what is a sausage? And why do they taste so good?

  • The concept of sausages goes back to antiquity -

  • stuffing animal guts with a meat, fish or sweet batter mixture

  • was an obvious and practical way

  • to make easily cooked, transportable food.

  • Originally, they were seen as small puddings

  • a large pudding was a haggis,

  • done in a stomach, rather than a length of gut -

  • and, like puddings, they were often boiled rather than fried.

  • The French word for sausage, boudin,

  • even gave us British the word 'pudding',

  • since early puddings were sausages,

  • and sausages really were a type of pudding.

  • Sometimes they were smoked or air dried to keep through winter.

  • Everywhere, though, for those who could afford it,

  • a spiced fresh meat sausage was a pretty staple item.

  • Even for those who couldn't afford good meat and fine spice,

  • sausages were about from very early on.

  • There was a play called The Sausage Seller written in the 5th Century BC,

  • and already then the lower-grade sausage

  • had a whiff of uncertain meat

  • disguised with judicious sauce about it.

  • In the medieval era, northern, wetter climes such as the UK

  • developed a speciality in fresh meat sausages,

  • to be cooked before eating.

  • Elsewhere, in dry climates such as the Mediterranean

  • which had good, stiff breezes and mountains,

  • dried or smoked sausages were more popular.

  • There they would cure properly,

  • and not simply go green as they would in Britain.

  • There were still mixtures with fish, fruit and blood

  • black pudding for example

  • but as the centuries rolled on,

  • most European sausages became based on a mixture

  • of pork, pork fat and flavourings.

  • They were not posh, and by the 18th Century

  • they rarely appeared at the dinner tables of the wealthy -

  • though they happily ate them as suppers and snacks.

  • But they were very popular,

  • and available for almost every possible budget.

  • Mass production became possible by the mid-Victorian times,

  • and even cheaper sausages came out, with a hefty filler of bread or rusk.

  • Saveloys in particular gained a reputation

  • for being based on off-cuts and filler,

  • or indeed, horsemeat and sawdust in some people's view.

  • Then, as now, the dirt-cheap versions

  • rubbed shoulders with the more expensive ones

  • until the First World War,

  • when meat shortages meant that no-one got much meat in their casings.

  • One theory as to why they became known as bangers,

  • shortly after the war,

  • is that the level of filler meant they banged and popped when fried.

  • However, it's just as likely to come from their shape,

  • which resembled shell casings,

  • not least as they were still often boiled to cook them.

  • Normally, they are cylindrical,

  • but they can, on occasion,

  • be square like a Lorne.

  • Today, eighty-five percent of Brits regularly consume sausages,

  • plain, as bangers and mash or as in toad-in-the-hole

  • though globally it's the cocktail sausage which is the king,

  • for a bite-sized piece of porky glory.

  • Small or large, contents as you wish,

  • we've had sausages for thousands of years,

  • and they are clearly here to stay.

Ah, the great British banger.

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