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  • - This is the only anti aging

  • and moisturizing cream

  • that works according

  • to scientists

  • and has a scientific consensus behind it.

  • I've been doing a lot of research on the beauty industry,

  • including finishing this great science book about your skin,

  • the remarkable life of the skin.

  • And I've realized there's a lot

  • of misinformation out there about products.

  • So we're gonna sit down

  • with my partner Mitch because he didn't really know

  • or use skin creams

  • to see if he can actually pick

  • and choose which ones are more effective

  • and teach you how to actually read the ingredients lists

  • of these beauty products

  • to understand from a scientific perspective,

  • which ones work.

  • So starting in your early 20s,

  • you lose roughly 1% of your collagen per year.

  • - Okay, so like a lot of it is gone.

  • - Yeah when we are in our 30s collagen is the protein

  • that gives your skin strength

  • and plumpness

  • and things that in our society we deem as good as

  • this collagen disappears,

  • that's when you get wrinkles.

  • - I'm not that aware of wrinkles,

  • but I feel like after this video,

  • that's all I'm gonna think about.

  • I have one here and I have two here.

  • Like I sleep on my face like that,

  • like literally like.

  • - Every morning you wake up next to me,

  • its literally like you know when someone's so dehydrated,

  • like somehow

  • in the night you become the most dehydrated person

  • on the planet.

  • And you wake up with like lines everywhere like,

  • (Mitch whooshes)

  • and I'm just what now you have wrinkles.

  • (Mitch laughs)

  • - I'm literally trying

  • to make a beauty video about being snatched

  • and you're calling out my most vulnerable part of the day.

  • In order to understand skin cream,

  • you must first understand the largest organ

  • in your body your skin.

  • The hypodermis holds the sweat glands,

  • fat cells and the base of hair follicles.

  • Next we have the dermis which contains collagen fibers

  • of which we will be talking a lot about today,

  • and the sebaceous gland which secretes natural oils.

  • Next we have the epidermis which starts

  • with the stratum basale right

  • on top of the dermis consisting

  • of stem cells that continuously divide,

  • creating your skin cells known as keratinocytes.

  • Next is the stratum spinosum where the keratinocytes link up

  • then it is the stratum granulosum

  • where the keratinocytes flaten,

  • lose their fats

  • and nucleus then reach the outermost layer

  • of the skin the stratum corneum which is now,

  • the effectively dead cells

  • at the outermost layer of your skin.

  • The epidermis is so thin,

  • only one millimeter but it is your main barrier

  • to the outside world.

  • And a lot of the BS from skincare products is because

  • this layer is actually so effective

  • at keeping the active ingredients

  • in creams out of your body.

  • So I'm gonna bring out two creams

  • at a time you are gonna try

  • and decipher which one you think is better.

  • - I'm just trying to figure out which ones

  • are like more BS versus which one

  • has like maybe more legitimacy.

  • - claims slash ingredients that would actually help my skin.

  • - Yes, exactly.

  • - My skin okay, now my BS detector is on.

  • - So your first two creams are right here,

  • we have the London

  • and rant Collagen Moisturizer. Oh my god I've always wanted

  • to do the beauty thing what do they do?

  • (Narrator mumbles)

  • or the Bluelene Revolutionary Anti-aging Cream

  • with methylene blue.

  • - Okay.

  • - Okay.

  • - Uuuuh probably a sign

  • that it's worse for you,

  • and I've never heard

  • of methylene blue or,

  • oryza sativa it's like isn't

  • that a strain of marijuana. (Narrator laughs)

  • - Rice bran oil,

  • my honest like evaluation if I was

  • to see these both

  • and guess which is either more legit or,

  • better for you would be this one.

  • (bell rings)

  • - If you ever find a cream

  • that has collagen in it,

  • or a face mask with collagen in it,

  • that you're topically applying to your skin,

  • it's 100% BS.

  • (Mitch quips)

  • - Collagen...

  • - isnt that what everything says?.

  • - A lot of things it's crazy it's actually,

  • look at

  • this one gold collagen so there's literally flakes of gold

  • in this,

  • 24 Karat Eye Cream this is called

  • with collagen.

  • There's a lot of things

  • that claim collagen to help with wrinkles,

  • but the molecule itself is too large

  • to actually go through your epidermis,

  • what we were talking about earlier the keratinocytes,

  • it does not get through.

  • So anything with collagen,

  • do not ever buy.

  • When you read the ingredients

  • of this methylene blue one.

  • It has glycerin pretty high up.

  • Glycerin is a really important molecule

  • for moisturizing your face.

  • It actually keeps the fluids

  • in and on your face.

  • So if you are looking for a moisturizer

  • and you want a cheap one

  • for example look

  • at the ingredients list if glycerin is high up

  • that will be a pretty good moisturizer

  • this has glycerin at ingredient number three

  • this has glycerin at ingredient number like six Not only is

  • it like BS with the collagen it's not even

  • that moisturizing it's a much worse cream bye London

  • and Grant.

  • (Mitch giggles)

  • its like we broke our floor

  • - It's claiming anti aging

  • in its actual packaging,

  • from methylene blue.

  • There's no scientific claims behind methylene blue helping

  • with anti aging

  • at all that's purely a tactic

  • to get you to buy this also not only

  • that but moisturizer in

  • and of itself is not anti aging.

  • There's no scientific claims behind moisturizer helping

  • with any anti aging when it comes

  • to wrinkles or photo aging of your skin.

  • So next you have the Bluelene versus

  • this Pure Vitamin C La Roche Posay.

  • - Okay I thought it was a lacquer

  • and I was like they have a face cream?

  • - So this one retails

  • at 59 Canadian dollars is more expensive.

  • This is a fancy fancy thing.

  • - In big writing anti-wrinkle concentrate,

  • renovating anti- oxidant.

  • - Okay, so..

  • - Renovating?

  • - We're going in,

  • we're renovating the face, aaah!

  • - ewww!

  • - Looks like (indistinct).

  • Ahhh!

  • - Ewwh

  • - So it...

  • - Uuuh!

  • - It really smells like foundation to me,

  • like liquid foundation.

  • - Oh, I love the smell.

  • - There's something about

  • this first one that I just like really liked?

  • And do we know like vitamin C is

  • that the vitamin we want in our skin?

  • This is what these companies need to do.

  • It should be regulated,

  • they need to say what that is doing.

  • I honestly think I'm gonna stick

  • with the Bluelene just cause I liked it more.

  • And I feel like these claims

  • and these terms are not as clear

  • to me and it just seems like they're saying things

  • that would convince someone that doesn't know.

  • - Okay, you're right.

  • (Mitch celebrates)

  • - This is still the superior cream. Good job..

  • - Hashtag not sponsored, though.

  • - So antioxidants are something

  • that are claimed on a lot of products

  • that people are buying,

  • there is not a scientific consensus

  • that antioxidants will help with anti aging.

  • - Topically.

  • - Topically applying vitamin C is an anti-oxidant.

  • And what is important to know,

  • is that as you read in here,

  • the second ingredient bran oil also has two types

  • of vitamin E in it,

  • which are anti-oxidants.

  • So this is claiming mostly only

  • that it has vitamin C,

  • which is an anti-oxidant.

  • This cream has more moisturizing properties.

  • And actually,

  • a second ingredient is a vitamin E anti-oxidant.

  • - So it's already got one that's claiming without even..

  • - exactly without having to write it all over.

  • - It's being subtle.

  • - Yeah,

  • - Its like, "Dah I'm not gonna brag."

  • - It's kind of funny because they're advertising

  • this methylene blue thing,

  • which is actually the BS part of this.

  • So now I want to get into the idea

  • of claims and language

  • on this packaging,

  • you're allowed to say a lot more misleading things

  • on skin creams than you are on safe food.

  • It's just it's just a less regulated industry.

  • So here it says dermatologist tested for safety.

  • Okay, so first of all,

  • everything is tested for safety.

  • Like that's a weird thing

  • that they're claiming.

  • But if something says dermatologically tested,

  • that just means a dermatologist had

  • to test it,

  • it doesn't mean that the results were saying

  • that it was doing anything,

  • it doesn't actually mean

  • that like it's essentially a good cream.

  • That's a really interesting sentence you can put

  • on packaging,

  • and it's it's meaningless.

  • - I hate that.

  • - I know,

  • it's crazy and clinically proven.

  • There's no regulation

  • on what that clinical study could be.

  • Technically,

  • you could make a cream,

  • you could go to any clinic,

  • you could test it on one person,

  • your best friend,

  • and then you could write clinically proven.

  • - What?

  • - yes, there's no regulating body

  • to say if something is clinically proven or not.

  • They're not technically lying.

  • - Sneaky.

  • - And even here,

  • that's it says a renowned antioxidant,

  • which we now know

  • with something called Neurosensine.

  • And then when you look it up,

  • it's a chemical that this company has created.

  • And there's not really any clear information

  • on what exactly it is.

  • And there's definitely no clear scientific information

  • that it does anything.

  • (narrator chuckles)

  • Active ingredient,

  • is another important one active ingredient,

  • again, it sounds really great to your ears.

  • But that could only be in vitro

  • that could be in a petri dish that could be on rats.

  • It doesn't have to ever be on humans,

  • active ingredient dermatologically tested,

  • clinically proven.

  • All of these things are essentially debunked.

  • Don't allow those words to trick you.

  • And again,

  • we're gonna be learning how

  • to read the ingredients list

  • to get the best moisturizer

  • and anti aging cream for you.

  • (upbeat music)

  • So number three,

  • you have,

  • (Mitch laughs)

  • - the Protect and Perfect Intent.

  • - Number three is number seven.

  • - No.7. Yes,

  • that is the brand I guess.

  • - Oh yeah, actually,

  • I kind of like this branding.

  • I like the kind

  • of similar they're sort of simple,

  • single tone now that it's out.

  • It's like this feels like pretty cheap.

  • So water is not even the first one..

  • - What's the first?

  • - Dimethicone.

  • - Okay,

  • so dimethicone is essentially silicone it's an additive

  • to make the cream cream.

  • Yeah. - it just makes it like thick?

  • - Yeah it doesn't do anything good or bad.

  • - Aqua, I kinda like that they said aqua instead

  • of water.

  • - Yeah,

  • (narrator chuckles)

  • I know.

  • - Glycerin, okay.

  • - Phenoxyethanol is in tons of creams. It is a preservative.

  • A lot of these things are preservatives

  • and additives. - So it doesn't like rot.

  • - Exactly preservatives,

  • it doesn't rot

  • and doesn't get bacteria on it.

  • There's some pretty important ingredients in there.

  • - That's what moisturizer does

  • to my hands.

  • (narrator mumbles)

  • - Really morus alba leaf extract.

  • - So a lot of plant additives like aloe,

  • honey for example.

  • Those are natural humectant so those are the types

  • of ingredients that will moisturize your skin.

  • - I see like ethylparaben

  • and I know that some creams

  • and things that are like paraben free.

  • So I don't know if that's like a negative against this.

  • one ingredient is retinyl palmitate.

  • - ooh!

  • - And I only know this because I've kind

  • of heard you alluding to retinol.

  • I don't know if it's the same as retinol as an ingredient

  • that is good.

  • I'm gonna try.

  • Just alittle squeeze.

  • - Its something like $30.

  • - Ooh! its really coming out.

  • Not much of a smell.

  • - They all look like semen.

  • - Again, this one's kind of like gluey.

  • I actually still prefer this one because

  • Like this kind

  • of substance more like it feels more like a real cream

  • and it doesn't have too much of a scent.

  • But I'm gonna go with number seven.

  • - So you chose No.7 over Bluelene.

  • - Yes.

  • - Correct.

  • (Mitch jubilates). - You are doing so good.

  • Interesting thing about this is

  • that the last two ingredients,

  • are total palmitoyl polypeptide.

  • So these are fatty chain acids attached to proteins.

  • And studies are now showing

  • that they can actually go past your epidermis

  • to your dermis and stimulate collagen creation.

  • So those are like an interesting new sort

  • of like cutting edge science,

  • - Cool.

  • - not enough to really claim that much,

  • but interesting that it's in this,

  • there is also has moisturizing properties.

  • And it has retinyl palmitate,

  • which has been proven

  • to increase collagen

  • but it does thin your skin should only be applied at night.

  • And it's not actually saying here how much

  • of that ingredient is

  • in there which is kind

  • of interesting

  • and will lead to our final cream.

  • So against our No.7 Intense Protect

  • and Perfect,

  • intense advanced.

  • We have this SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3% pure retinol,

  • which is interesting,

  • as you were saying you don't know how much retinol is

  • in here. But you do in this one?

  • - Because I know you have this now.

  • - Yes, I do after my research. Yeah.

  • - It seems more simplified.

  • It's not trying to claim so many different things so far as,

  • I can see refining night cream,

  • retinol.

  • And it's just like a very specific number.

  • Maybe it's not claiming like oh,

  • to have this vitamin,

  • this vitamin,

  • but it's like,

  • here's a product that does a single thing.

  • And I think that's really interesting.

  • - Retinol and retinoic acid is what we're going

  • to talk about right now,

  • because it is the only face cream

  • for anti aging that there is a scientific consensus about.

  • This is retinol 0.3% this is something

  • that you can buy over the counter,

  • you don't need a prescription for.

  • Retinoic acid is something you need a prescription for.

  • So these are all derivatives of vitamin A.

  • And this has all been proven

  • to go through your epidermis,

  • which we talked about earlier

  • to your dermis

  • and stimulate collagen growth.

  • It also creates new blood vessels,

  • it's it creates angiogenesis in your face.

  • - Wow.

  • - So it's actually quite intense.

  • And it's interesting because it's like obviously the one

  • that affects your face intensely

  • from a biological perspective is the one

  • that's actually doing something.

  • If you want to,

  • retinol you can buy right now you could buy this product,

  • it's quite expensive.

  • And I think they're starting

  • to realize I can charge a lot

  • for this because it does technically work.

  • So if you're in your 20s

  • and you're already starting

  • to lose your collagen,

  • you could just buy this retinol 0.3% start there.

  • But if you wanna work your way up

  • to a stronger,

  • more intense concentration,

  • you do need a dermatologist.

  • And that's because it does irritate your skin,

  • it can create redness,

  • and retinoic acid

  • in and of itself is toxic when you consume

  • it by mouth to rats.

  • And therefore they have actually like fallen

  • under like regulating bodies as dangerous.

  • That's another reason why you need

  • to go to a dermatologist.

  • - Thinking that it's gonna irritate my skin

  • and make it read make me sensitive

  • to the sun and all these things.

  • - Yeah, why does you have to apply this

  • at night don't apply during the day because,

  • you will more likely to get sunburn.

  • - It makes me a little afraid. - Well, You kind of should be,

  • so one thing that's important

  • and they make it clear

  • on the packaging.

  • And based on the scientific evidence of this.

  • You just start low.

  • You want to start it

  • at 0.1% start once a week,

  • work your way up to two times a week work.

  • - Why do you have that one? - I don't know.

  • I thought I could handle it. (laughter)

  • - I'd apply it at night with a moisturizer. That's something

  • that they say is worth doing because,

  • it does dry out your skin.

  • And also light, literal light,

  • can deactivate the retinol,

  • like it's a very sensitive molecule.

  • It's and it does make your skin feel weird.

  • It does make my red ass skin turn more red.

  • - I'm freaked out by that. - Yeah,

  • - I have to be totally honest.

  • - no that's totally fair to be freaked out by it.

  • It means you don't care all

  • that much about this anti aging..

  • - Or I'm just anxiety ridden

  • and scared to like do - yeah,

  • - and that could potentially not be like just 100% safe.

  • - Yeah, okay, but I mean,

  • it's the only one that works. - Okay, wow.

  • - Yeah cast them all out. Well, I will say,

  • and this is no shade to anyone.

  • I just want to put it out there

  • that also there's nothing wrong with wrinkles.

  • It's nothing wrong

  • with not wanting them there's nothing wrong

  • with having them.

  • I don't believe that there's any medical reason

  • that wrinkles are bad.

  • - No, they're not.

  • They're actually quite beautiful

  • in like indications of a wise life,

  • yeah, wrinkles are maybe more

  • of like a sign of the inevitability of death.

  • (narrator laughs)

  • - And in this industry,

  • I just like support it's necessary.

  • - I don't know start my drive right now. In summary,

  • don't fall for products that claim that collagen is going

  • to do anything to Increase Collagen in your skin.

  • It won't even get absorbed. Don't fall for sentences

  • that just dermatologically tested clinically proven or,

  • active ingredients make sure

  • that there's humectants high on the ingredient list such as,

  • glycerin is a very obvious one, or natural ones like aloe

  • and honey,

  • if the ingredients have anti-oxidants,

  • palmitoyl polypeptides

  • and retinol in them.

  • you're checking all the boxes for any scientific sort

  • of understanding,

  • for anti aging but retinol,

  • is the only ingredient

  • that is scientifically proven,

  • to be absorbed and to stimulate collagen

  • within your skin when applied topically. That is our video

  • but I just want

  • to say one more real quick Important cream

  • and that is sunscreen.

  • Because UVA radiation is actually,

  • what breaks down the collagen.

  • So staying out of the Sun is like the best..

  • - Preventative.

  • - It's preventative,

  • also really good for your skin not drinking,

  • not smoking,

  • sleeping a lot and drinking lots

  • of water and eating healthy.

  • I am now sounding like your mom.

  • - Thank you guys for watching.

  • We hope that the beauty industry is quacking ready for,

  • - James Charles Lookout Sister.

  • - Snack skin.

  • - Hey sisters welcome back

  • to my YouTube channel.

  • (laugher)

  • If in future videos,

  • you notice that we're looking really flawless,

  • let us know.

  • Otherwise, we'll see you guys next time.

  • Peace.

- This is the only anti aging

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