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  • We've been here for about a year now

  • people always ask me why we came from Hawaii

  • To live and surf in Portugal

  • and I have to laugh

  • because there's so many reasons

  • just to be able to live

  • this close to the beach

  • and really not just any beach, Baleal has great surf most of the time

  • it's just special

  • being able to walk across the street

  • get in the water, get some waves

  • from our house to the cliff

  • where you can see

  • I don't know, 1000 different breaks it's about a two minute walk

  • and at most of those breaks, there's absolutely nobody surfing

  • we definitely have some lineups in Baleal Lagido usually has a pretty good crowd

  • and a pretty high level, some guys rip over here

  • But if you look just up the beach

  • walk 5 minutes up the cliff

  • you can usually get pretty good waves with nobody out

  • coming from the Hawaii that's a pretty special thing for us 'cuz a lot of people in Hawaii surf

  • Surfing by yourself is just different

  • When you're in the lineup with a lot of other guys, it get's pretty competitive, you don't want to make mistakes

  • But when you're out by yourself or just with the boys

  • You can go for it, try things you've never tried before

  • it doesn't matter. You know nobody is watching so...

  • it sounds funny to say, but I think my surfing has probably improved more

  • in one year of surfing everyday in Portugal

  • than about 12 years

  • surfing maybe 3 or 4 days a week in Hawaii.

  • Man, I love those mornings when you walk down on the cliff

  • It's head high, off shore, super glassy

  • just see sets marching in

  • Normally a pretty good sized line-up at Lagide, Look straight out at the home break

  • and it's perfect

  • and NOBODY'S out

  • You just get the biggest smile and think, "Yep, I'm gonna go out there and..."

  • Surf perfect waves by myself

  • it's a pretty awesome feeling

  • and I would have to say that's my favorite thing about living in Baleal.

We've been here for about a year now

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