Name: ‘The Irishman’ Costume Designers Break Down Dressing 5 Decades of Crime | Vanity Fair
Uploaded: 2020-03-21T17:20:04.000Z
Duration: 22 min 9 s
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Hi, this is Sandy Powell and wear the costume designers for the Irish.

We want to spend some time taking you through the Irishman decade by decade.

This is notes on the scene during a film like this.

There were so many costumes to actually do.

There wasn't time doing drawings and you do a drawing if you're trying to work something out that's being made.

But in this particular case on this film, we worked out what they were wearing by trying things on.

You're actually working three d really to get it done.

It's crazy, but I never understood how they just keep digging their own graves, you know, Let me stop.

So this is Robert DeNiro as Frank Sheeran at his youngest in the film, The rial guy.

Frank Sheeran was with much bigger than Robert Niro.

But there was no way we were gonna make Robert De Niro actually six foot four.

And so to help Bob, you know, he had some lifts in his shoes sometimes and then also the sort of build up his shoulders a little bit to make it broader than he actually is especially in the in the youngest scenes yet.

Yeah, just writing that squared shoulders.

He looks slim and taller, but he's not necessarily going to look like your average 25 years.

He's been at war for several years, and he's been through all kinds of trauma.

He spent something like 412 days on the battlefield of Anzio, so he was not to be messed with, which sort of sets up what's to come in.

The film 19 fifties are really where the story takes off was a problem, kid.

I know it's funny that stops and starts loses power.

I think this is a really typical look for the fifties with Russell Bufalino wearing this gabardine jacket.

Usually he's very smartly dressed, his casual, but it's still really smart and very typical of the period on dhe.

It's the first appearance really over old tie that we used a lot on this character, and the boldest ties are sort of most typical of the forties into the 50 and later on you'll see that the Thai silhouette start narrowing anything.

No tithe, fifties that shoulders broadened out and you got a little bit box here a little bit longer than the forties.

Because all of the the forties suits and silhouettes on men they were much more abbreviated because of the war and fabric rationing and just the style of the time.

But when some everybody came home, there's a bit more money, and everyone went a bit more adventurous with how much they spend on clothing To the look for Frank here is his very sort of typical teams.

To look is a leather jacket that a young man of his age in this period would be wearing, especially somebody who does a job driving around all day on the cap.

Also, it was very typical of a sort of team.

You should instagram that people don't appreciate what you did.

This is the first time that Frank comes to the Village aroma the first time he's introduced to these other characters that are around on.

What's what's important here is the Harvey Keitel character, Angela Bruno, who really is of everybody in the room, the sharpest dresser really think he's kind of the oldest.

He's been around and he knows how to dress.

Then the skinny razor was always sort of very Nathalie dressed.

This is sort of the earlier end of the fifties, and as we go through the fifties, you see how the silhouette changes as it heads towards the sixties.

So although the 50 starts out with a wide lapel for the guys in a wider tire, and as it gets through the decade for that, for the younger characters, the lapels go more narrow and so do the ties to sort of fit with the proportions of the suit.

It's like the women, which echoes all of that.

The skirts are wider, there's just there's more volume in them, and it's scary.

Just wanna draw hearts because the bottom of the morning bone, huh?

Santana developed this capital collar, which is a long spear point called very typical of these men from the fifties.

And it's a memory from my Marty's childhood.

This caller was sort of an exaggerated thing that kind of made men war, and you saw this collar, and you understood that he was somebody not to be messed with because it was a slight exaggeration.

Except the cholera is even more exaggerated in other films that Marty is known for, such as Goodfellas and Casino.

But in this particular case, Marty wanted these guys to be less obvious and less dandified as the others.

This is Frank in a suit, not at his sort of finest just yet.

His jacket is a regular fifties jacket that would have been off the peg at this point.

That was his best suit, but he would have wanted to go to meet Russell Buff Alina.

His collar here is not as exaggerated as a cz Russell, because he hasn't actually graduated that level yet.

The show it's not just a plain white shirt is a kind of like a jacket.

I mean, we had a lot of typing to deal with.

This was our only way of really providing embellishment or decoration on these guys were sort of tie pins, clips and cufflinks.

Dover this'll one is right at the beginning of the sixties in 1961.

There are younger guys, but again, they're not fashionable now.

There would have been some very fashionable young men around during this time who had had longer hair, which these guys don't have it the moment.

And they're all wearing these pleated trousers, which really starts to disappear on men of this age in the 19 sixties.

Flat front, these guys are still wearing a fairly sort of full there pleated pants and then all of these.

These camp shirts, all of this shape is quite voluminous, which was echo from the fifties.

You know that shape that what's nice about this scene is that it's set in Miami in the summer.

So it was R really only opportunity to get a bit lighter in tone and color.

Was indicative of a period by the mustard yellows like here, I think, is you know, this guy here is pretty sixties.

There was an awful lot of research material available to us of actual events that really happened, including documentary footage of Coffer in particular.

Not so much fracture, and we just had a sort of family photographs.

But we have many folk across the groups of men like these.

In the thing that we can see, there's nothing necessarily summing up archetypal sixes.

But none of these guys are particularly fashionable.

So they're in pretty ordinary clothes that they may well have had for several years.

They all kind of like to do the same thing.

And this whole the whole reason they're holding this convention in Miami at the jovial hotel.

I mean, it was a reason to take their wives on vacation, living in the best of health.

He's not being protected bythe Bruno family, and he has become Hoffa's body guards that he's sort of a made man.

And then we've moved now into, you know, this this very skinny tie.

I think he exudes more of a sort of a confidence here that might not have been before.

You're wearing something fabulous and you feel good.

So you you kind of have a different aura.

Russell is still sort of wearing his fifties look a little bit with a large pattern, along with his brother Bold Christmas cardigan, and it's another good example of his character for ties.

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‘The Irishman’ Costume Designers Break Down Dressing 5 Decades of Crime | Vanity Fair

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