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In the north-east of the Indian Ocean,
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spanning a latitude of 6 to 16 degrees north of the Equator,
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lies the Andaman Sea.
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For the people of Thailand and Burma, also known as Myanmar,
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the two nations bordering the eastern edge of the Andaman,
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the sea has always been an integral part of life and the economy.
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The Andaman's warm waters support an enormity of marine life
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and they are relied upon for food as well as transport.
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Limestone formations such as those which make up the Phi Phi Islands
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contrast with granite outcrops like the Similan Islands.
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The warm, clear water and diversity of marine life
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make the Andaman an attractive dive destination
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and many divers visit each year to explore and enjoy the underwater world.
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And seldom is the marine landscape as diverse as it is here.
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Millions of years of decay have cut the limestone pinnacles of Burma's Mergui Archipelago
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into a terrain of underwater canyons and caves.
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Further south, the huge granite boulders of Thailand's Similan Islands
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continue beneath the waterline,
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creating dramatic caves and swim-throughs.
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Much of the submerged rock has been colonized by soft corals
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like this mushroom leather coral at Christmas Point
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or stony corals like this field of staghorn coral at Koh Bon
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or this Montipora coral at East of Eden.
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Elsewhere magnificent anemones have taken over.
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At shallow sites such as Richelieu Rock the ebb and flow of the tide
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brings the oxygen necessary for turtle weed, a type of green algae, to flourish.
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Dendronephthya soft corals adorn the valleys and slopes at Hin Muang, or "purple rock" in Thai.
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Elsewhere pretty crinoids, or "feather stars",
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take up prime positions for filtering plankton from the water.
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A feeding strategy shared by giant sea fans,
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whose sieve-like skeleton makes them highly efficient filter feeders.
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Here between the rocks and coral lie leopard sharks.
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These gentle creatures are quite the opposite of many people's impression of the fearsome shark.
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Rather than sharp teeth, their mouths contain ridged plates.
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Leopard sharks can be easily and safely approached
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but if divers get too close they will finally make their departure.
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Although "leopard shark" is the most commonly used name in the Andaman Sea,
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globally, these sharks are more commonly known as "zebra sharks",
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because the rarely seen juveniles have stripes, not spots.
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Bearing many similarities to leopard sharks,
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nurse sharks are also normally placid.
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Like leopard sharks they don't have sharp teeth.
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Nurse sharks should be treated with respect however.
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They have been known to bite divers when provoked,
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and if they bite they tend not to let go.
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During the day, tawny nurse sharks are normally found sleeping under ledges,
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often piled up in groups like here at Koh Bon Pinnacle.
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Although nurse sharks generally feed at night,
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here at the Burma Banks they are often on the prowl looking for food during the day time too.
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They have 2 barbels above the mouth which help them probe for food.
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When the shark senses prey such as small fishes or crustaceans
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it uses a strong sucking action to draw the food into the mouth.
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Bonds between nurse sharks appear to be closer than with many other shark species
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and they are often seen swimming in couples.
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At Thailand's Richelieu Rock, a whale shark makes a rare appearance.
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This is no whale but rather the world's largest fish.
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Whale sharks can grow up to 12 meters long,
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although unconfirmed reports circulate of giants up to 18 meters long.
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This female is about the average size of 8 meters.
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There is little to match the awe inspired by an encounter with a whale shark,
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and for many divers this is the pinnacle of their underwater experience.
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Their 3000 tiny teeth are rarely used.
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When feeding they hold their mouths open
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and feed on plankton, fish eggs and small marine creatures.
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Ridges down the whale shark's back are reminiscent of those on zebra sharks' backs
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and like the zebra shark, the whale shark poses little danger to humans.
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She has lost the top part of her tail,
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perhaps due to an attack by a predatory shark when she was a youngster,
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or possibly a collision with a boat's propeller.
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The shark's fins act like rudders,
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helping steer it gracefully through the water.
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For a long time whale sharks were thought to be oviparous,
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in other words hatching from eggs laid by the mother.
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However since 1995,
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females have been discovered containing hundreds of hatched pups,
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proving that the young complete their development inside the mother's body before birth.
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As is typical of large pelagic fishes, the back is darker than the belly.
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This countershading helps it blend in with its environment,
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and the abstract pattern of spots and stripes on the back enhances the camouflage from above.
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Some whale sharks attract shoals of fish around the head,
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such as these juvenile scad,
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protecting themselves from predators which may be intimidated by the shark.
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The shark itself does not prey on them,
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and they are careful enough to cruise in front of its cavernous mouth,
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without getting sucked in.
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This much younger whale shark approached boats near Western Rocky Island
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and stayed around for a long time.
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Although it might be tempting to touch or even hitch a ride on a whale shark,
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this practise is highly discouraged.
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It may modify the shark's natural behavior, or even cause infection.
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It can also be dangerous for the diver or snorkeler.
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Despite their usual graceful and stately motion,
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whale sharks can draw on great strength if they become agitated,
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and should be respected like any wild animal.
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Shark fin soup is seen as a delicacy and status symbol in many Asian markets.
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A single whale shark fin can fetch tens of thousands of dollars in some Chinese restaurants,
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and often a whale shark fin is not eaten
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but just used to advertise the availability of shark fin or shark fin soup.
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Whale sharks do not reach sexual maturity until they are 25 years old,
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and pregnancies are few and far between,
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so their survival is particularly at risk.
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Unless this culture changes,
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or legislation is introduced and enforced,
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whale sharks, like many other sharks,
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may soon disappear forever.
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From the shadows, and shoals of cardinalfish
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at Burma's Shark Cave,
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a grey reef shark emerges.
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This strong stocky shark feeds mainly at night,
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but may sometimes be seen cruising during the day.
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The canyon at Shark Cave provides an excellent viewing gallery.
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Although grey reef sharks can sometimes show aggression in their behaviour,
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this is extremely rare amongst those found in the Andaman.
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A visit to the Burma Banks will sometimes yield an interesting encounter with silvertip sharks.
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These juveniles are particularly curious of divers.
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As adults they will grow larger than grey reef sharks,
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up to 3 meters in fact,
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but they will also withdraw slightly
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and become more wary of close human contact.
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Already these young silvertips display the streamlined body and attractive coloration
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that make them a favorite amongst shark lovers.
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One of the most common sharks to be found across the Andaman Sea
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is the whitetip reef shark.
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Because of similar coloration of the dorsal and tail fins,
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the whitetip reef shark and silvertip shark are sometimes confused,
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but the whitetip has a wedge-shaped head,
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and it's cigar-shaped body is slimmer than the silvertip's.
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Black Rock, on the western edge of the Mergui Archipelago,
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is one of the area's best dive sites,
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and whitetip reef sharks are commonly encountered during the descent.
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The other main order of cartilaginous fishes to be found
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around the Andaman's reefs is the rays,
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and most common of these is the bluespotted stingray.
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This stingray's coloration and common name
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make it often confused with the more circular blue-spotted stingray
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found in the Gulf of Thailand,
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which belongs to a different genus.
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The bluespotted stingray is found on sandy bottoms
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at sites such as East of Eden in the Similans.
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The neutral color of the larger Jenkins whipray
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camouflages it well against the seabed.
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This ray has a pair of sharp and venomous spines near the base of its tail,
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and the name "whipray" comes from the ray's ability to whip it's long tail over fast
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and administer a nasty sting to a predator at any part of its circumference.
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The ray takes water in through its spiracle, a hole just behind the eye.
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This water can be blown out through the mouth
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to excavate food from the substrate.
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Another large stingray common to the area is the blotched fantail ray.
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This impressive species can grow nearly 2 meters in diameter
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and is often one of the highlights of dives in the Andaman.
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Blotched fantail rays are most impressive when they aggregate in shoals.
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Occasionally they can be witnessed in large numbers.
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I encountered this shoal of some 30 individuals at Black Rock.
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They had possibly gathered to mate.
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Another visitor to Black Rock and other deep-water sites is the spotted eagle ray.
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In some parts of the world eagle rays stay together in schools.
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In the Andaman Sea they are normally found alone.
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Just behind the short dorsal fin they have up to 6 venomous tail spines
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which can inflict serious damage on attackers.
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Between its wing-like fins it has a solid, heavy body and a deep head.
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The smoothtail mobula is a similar size to the eagle ray
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but can only usually be seen by divers in the northern Andaman
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at sites like Burma's Tower Rock,
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although they are occasionally seen in Thailand
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at sites such as Racha Noi.
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The mobula is a member of a group termed "devil rays",
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so named because of 2 protruding cephalic fins either side of it's mouth.
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These fins help to direct plankton and small marine creatures
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into the mouth for feeding.
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The mobula is a highly social fish
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and is often observed in large schools.
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The mobula is an impressive sight
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but shares our seas with a much larger devil ray:
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the king of all rays, the giant manta ray.
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Mantas are frequent visitors to sites such as Koh Bon.
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Giant mantas can grow to a width of over 6 meters
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and a weight of over 2 tonnes.
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These pelagic fish are always on the move
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and like mobulas, they feed by swimming open-mouthed
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and using the 2 cephalic fins to direct water into the mouth.
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The gills on its white underside contain rakers
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which filter out plankton and small organisms.
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The markings on the back and underside of mantas are highly variable
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and are useful in distinguishing individuals.
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Occasionally the cephalic fins are furled up into cylinders to improve streamlining.
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Mantas are one of the most intelligent fish,
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with the largest brain-to-body mass ratio of all elasmobranchs.
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They often seem to enjoy interaction with humans.
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A gentle approach by divers is often permitted,
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and mantas will sometimes approach divers,
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apparently out of curiosity.
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Mantas only give birth to an average of two pups every two years,
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and populations have long been in decline.
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The gill rakers of mantas and mobulas are used in a Chinese medicine
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that is thought to detoxify the blood.
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There is no scientific evidence that it works.
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Nevertheless the lucrative trade is on the increase.
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In November 2011
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the International Union for Conservation of Nature
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declared giant manta rays as "vulnerable with an elevated risk of extinction".
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Down on the reef, a fish trap has caught a handful of bony fishes
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including a giant moray eel.
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This is the largest of all morays.
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Despite their fearsome appearance,
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morays are not as dangerous to humans as they look,
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although larger morays can attack if provoked
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and have been known to bite divers when being fed.
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The mouth contains sharp teeth for capturing and restraining prey.
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Once captured, a second set of jaws in the throat
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is launched forward to grab the prey
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and pull it down the moray's gullet.
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Anemone Reef is home to several specimens of yellow-edged moray.
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Like many morays they feed on small reef fishes.
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Khao Lak's Boonsung tin miner wreck
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has a particular concentration of honeycomb morays.
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This spotted moray at the Burma Banks is a close relative.
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Whitemouth morays are not at all common in the Andaman.
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This rare specimen was seen at Burma's Western Rocky Island.
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Another Myanmar speciality is the barredfin moray.
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When feeling threatened it adopts a very snake-like posture.
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Facial injuries are quite common amongst morays,
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and this palechin moray at High Rock bears the scars of past conflicts.
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The cartoon-like features of the greyface moray
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are much more common throughout the area
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and these eels are often found in pairs or small groups.
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This is a small and very energetic species
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and when it attacks it moves quickly.
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Greyface morays don't just live with each other;
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they often share their home with other species.
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In this case a fimbriated moray.
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And here we find a fimbriated moray with a snowflake moray.
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Whereas the previous species feed mainly on fishes,
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the snowflake moray feeds on shelled molluscs and crustaceans,
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so it's teeth are much more blunt.
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It's not difficult to see how the zebra moray got its name.
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This moray also feeds on crustaceans.
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Of all the marine creatures found in the Andaman Sea,
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possibly the tiger tail seahorse carries the most mystique.
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The seahorse finds a suitable holdfast,
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such as this black sun coral,
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and anchors itself to it using its striped tail.