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I'm in Tokyo.
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Yes this really is Tokyo.
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It's about 360 kilometers away from the city center and
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I'm on this tropical island in the middle the Pacific for an entire week.
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There's lots of things to see and do here, but the thlabe
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Welcome to Aogashima.
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Central Tokyo is one of the world's biggest and most well known cities, but it's a lot bigger than many people think
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Besides the mountains to its west, Tokyo includes many Pacific islands.
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The closest ones have airports. There's Aogashima at the end, but Tokyo doesn't stop there.
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You have to stretch out over 1,800 kilometers,
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1,100 miles away from the city center to islands that include Iwo Jima and Okinotori.
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Further south than Hong Kong. Ogasawara island is a 24 hour ferry ride, but they're all administered by Tokyo.
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Aogashima is our destination. Tokyo's Jurassic Park looking island with a volcano inside a volcano.
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Maruyama is the volcano inside this crater, a jungle, and the town sits 200 metres above the sea in the north.
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Getting there means a long ferry ride or a flight from Tokyo to nearby Hachijojima.
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Where you have to change to another ferry or, one of Tokyo's most unique forms of public transportation,
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the helicopter. That's right Tokyo has buses, subways, ferries, and helicopters.
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It's eleven thousand five hundred and thirty yen, or about a hundred dollars for the 20 minute ride.
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You have to reserve a month in advance because it only seats eight.
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The helicopter departs Hachijojima airport after the ANA flight returns to Haneda airport in Central Tokyo.
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9:20 a.m. daily.
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Tokyo's island helicopter system has ten daily flights transporting commuters and tourists over the Pacific.
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The other way is by ferry,
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but Aogashima's port is very tough to dock at and trips are sometimes canceled or turned back in route.
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Helicopter is the most reliable method.
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There's Aogashima now.
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On the approach you can see that the town is high off the sea.
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Many residents come to the heliport. The owner of the inn I was staying at was there to pick me up.
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I think helicopter is the best way to get to Aogashima.
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The community on the island is small and close. When one student left the island for summer break, she was given a wonderful send off.
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Aogashima is officially 358 kilometers from Central Tokyo.
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It's also the smallest town in Japan, with only 160 residents.
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The post office, it's where the only ATM is. The power plant.
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The main road. An official city sign for Tokyo's most peaceful avenue.
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The traffic light.
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There's only one here and it's used in front of the school to teach kids that yeah,
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there are traffic lights out there in the world.
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There are vending machines and izakaya too. This pub was closed because the owner was away for a wedding.
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But this one was open. From 6:00 p.m., Monji Izakaya may be the liveliest place on the island.
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The food is good and yes, they have karaoke too.
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Aogashima's famous for its shochu, potato distilled alcohol.
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And Akira-san gives an amazing tour that includes a lot of tasting.
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By the end of it I tasted over 12 different shochus including this one.
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But seriously, the island shochu is really good. Most people bought the premium label and they got to put it on themselves at the factory.
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I stayed at Tametomo, a cozy inn and just a couple of minutes walk from the heliport.
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It was an incredibly comfortable stay with free coffee and tea, and three meals a day.
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Besides the two izakaya there's no restaurant on the island. So it's a good idea to sign up for the meals.
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This is Kyoko-san, and for over a week she made my stay a lot of fun, and I felt like I was part of
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a family just after a couple of days here.
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The food is home-cooked island fare, and very good.
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Upon request you can get a bento to eat out. That allows you to explore the island and stay energized.
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Yoshino-san came to pick me up in the morning for a trip to the crater.
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It's a long hour walk from the town, or a 10 minute drive.
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The town is about 200 meters up, and the crater is at the bottom so, there's a tunnel, a long one lane tunnel.
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The openings are a little wider to allow traffic to pull to the side.
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Welcome to the crater. That's Maruyama in the center, all of it covered in jungle.
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Few people live down here. Those clearings are mostly vinyl covered farms.
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There are no taxis here so people rent a car, walk, or hitchhike.
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There's some good hiking around Maruyama, and a viewpoint to see the island.
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It's mostly pristine jungle.
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The side near the port has the most activity.
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Basically it's a lot of green down there.
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Summers are hot, but it's about to get even hotter.
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This is a unique volcanic steamer open to the public for cooking.
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One resident has prepared quite a feast for lunch. Fish, vegetables, eggs,
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and a steamed cake.
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Yoshino-san and I had our lunch prepared by Kyoko-san at the inn. Lots of vegetables in a bag with curry sauce.
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Egg.
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Yoshino-san: Mystery.
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John: Mystery, LOL.
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They'll be in there for 30 to 45 minutes. There's a lever under the steamer to turn it on and off.
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Yep it's on. All that steam coming naturally from the ground.
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After 40 minutes lunch was ready, and served in a nearby picnic area.
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The volcanic steamed lunch is a real Aogashima treat, and inside that mystery foil, delicious fish.
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But I was curious about Maruyama in the center.
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Maru meaning circle. Yama, Mountain. The island is scientifically considered a complex Quaternary volcanic island.
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The ridges on the side of Maruyama are man-made. They were used to plant flowers in the rows.
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But if you want to go inside this class C volcano, you'd better bring someone local,
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and Akira-san from the shochu factory volunteered to guide me.
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He's one of the only people who still wanders into the center of the crater, and he knows the island's long history.
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We wandered off the trail into the dense jungle. The humidity level in here was insanely high.
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This is really dangerous going into the center of the...
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Center of Maruyama.
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I'm glad Akira-san is with me because I wouldn't be able to do this alone.
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This area used to be inhabited.
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Akira-san went even deeper.
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There weren't any visible landmarks and he navigates from memory.
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We're going now down deep into the crater.
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There's a lot more mosquitoes. Just go slowly. I should have worn pants and a long shirt but,
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you know what, let's go with it.
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I'm glad I have socks on at least.
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So between the two ferns here.
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These two trees. There used to be a house.
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Centuries ago they really seemed to like to barbecue stuff on the island.
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So this is the center here. This is where it erupted about 200 years ago and people...
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So this is the place where the last eruption was
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about 200 years ago, and after the eruption people lived down in here.
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Now you can't see
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from the drone from above what's down inside there so, I thought that was pretty cool that Akira-san showed us
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some of the history of the island.
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Even though
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it's a jungle down there, LOL.
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This is the oldest tree on the island. A lot of the younger residents don't know about it, but it's believed
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to have survived the last eruptions between 1781 and 1785.
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And it was beautiful enough to make me a real tree hugger.
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Not far from Maruyama is Akira-san's farm, where one of his produce is the island's passion fruit.
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Almost all of the produce on these farms are eaten by the farmers because there's no marketplace to sell them.
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In the evening Akira-san came to the inn with a pot of the islands famous dish, Torinabe.
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Torinabe uses the bones and meat from older hens when they can no longer lay eggs.
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Like a fine wine, age gives extra flavor and the dish contains more bones than meat.
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Torinabe is really about the dashi or soup stock.
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The next day I decided to leave the inn and town for a night to live out in the jungle.
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Today I'm moving from Onyado the inn to the camp spot,
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and this is the only store on the island and I need to come here to get some supplies.
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The store has just about everything you need for an adventure.
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The family run supermarket also runs a rent-a-car business, and offers guide services.
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Fresh produce come from the local farms are from nearby
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Hachijojima on the ferry, when it's running. There's even ice cream, and a lot of food with a longer shelf life.
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In some ways this could be considered the center of town.
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The hour-long hike to the crater from the town splits at the tunnel, where the old road is now a hiking trail.
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The jungle has taken over much of it.
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If you want a camp, there's a campsite, but call ahead to let the staff know you're there.
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So the camp area in Aogashima is free.
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There aren't that many people that come here. There aren't that many facilities to speak of but there's a place to pitch your tent.
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It's quiet; its natural,
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and it's jungle. It really is, the only clearing is where volcanic gas is still leaked out of the sand and rock.
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Volcanic Sauna Steam Bath
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This is the island sauna powered entirely by the geothermal energy below. It's open from afternoon to 8:00 p.m. and costs 300 yen.
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There's a shower and bath but we're here for this, the sauna.
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Woah! So hot!
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Oh my gosh. It's like I've just entered the surface of the sun. It's all coming out of this heater here.
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Ah. I don't know how this can be healthy it's so hot.
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You can hardly breathe. It's like... like I'm breathing water.
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I gotta get out.
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It's just too hot.
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In only 90 seconds my skin got this red. You spend a couple of minutes in there
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You go back outside, it's not that hot anymore.
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That's a sauna. Outside, that's just summer.
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This is the Aogashima's port or Sanbō.
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A ferry is scheduled to come five to six days a week, but some of those are canceled due to rough seas or high winds.
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It's the cheapest way to get to Aogashima but,
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it's not dependable so if you have to catch a flight back home, you'd better take the helicopter.
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It's about a three hour trip from Aogashima to Hachijojima.
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There's no beach on Aogashima, and the only way to access the sea is here.
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It attracts a lot of people to come catch dinner.
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In the summer kampachi or giant almaco jacks are easy to catch.
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It's also a great place to relax.
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Favorite Spots on Aogashima
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That down there is Akira-san's ranch where I filmed the opening.
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It's a majestic view and I learned about it, from Moemi.
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She's the island's nurse stationed on Aogashima for six months.
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She showed me one of her favorite places on the island.
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We had to go up an overgrown path that led to this hill.
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From here there are long views to Hachijojima that include the green pastures of the island.
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Down below was the sea.
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I asked Moemi about her story.
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I'm really glad I ran into Moemi on the island.
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The people I met here became my friends, and that is what makes this island special to me.
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Aogashima is more than just an island.
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I've been on the island for a few days now and in order to get from one side of the town to the other,
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you can walk around which takes you a couple minutes longer or you can go the direct route.
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Which is a little bit challenging and I affectionately called this road,
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"The Steep Road Pit of Death"
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Over the week I stayed here. This route was always an obstacle.
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I've climbed steeper roads but it's the fact that I had to climb it so often that made it one of those memories
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I won't forget.
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It seems pretty harmless going down,
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but it's the road going back up that's a killer.
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You have to take little teeny baby steps to get up there.
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You combine the heat of the sun pounding down on you and this steep.
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Yeah, you know if this was the city of Tokyo, they would have built a bridge.
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But they didn't and that's what makes this place pretty cool, it moves with nature.
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Even after going up and down 25 times during my stay, I'd happily do it again which would mean,
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I'm back on Aogashima.
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Most visitors stay for just a day or two, but the longer I stayed the longer I felt a part of the island.
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It really is Tokyo but, it moves at its own pace. The forces of nature are always present but when the skies are clear,
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it's paradise in the Pacific.
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What an incredible island. This is a side of Tokyo that I never knew existed
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380 kilometres from the city center. This is still Tokyo and,
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it's a tropical paradise in the middle of the Pacific. If you put in the effort and you make the time,
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this island Aogashima has loads and loads of adventures to give you.
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Next time I head to the north of Honshu island to Aomori prefecture. Oma, home of the world's best Blue Fin tuna, maguro.
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From the sea to the restaurant, to my stomach. A Blue Fin tuna adventure is swimming your way.
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またね (Bye for now)