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Today, I'm going to show you how to make portable soup.
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Portable soup was very popular in the 18th Century for many good reasons.
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Thanks for joining us today on 18th Century Cooking with James Townsend and Son.
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So let's talk a little bit about what portable soup is.
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It's a very concentrated form of essence of meat, sort of like a solidified broth, and in the time period
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they used it like we would use soup bouillon today.
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It goes by many different names; in period texts you'll see it as portable soup, portable broth,
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pocket soup, veal glue - I like this one - portmanteau potage and the list goes on and on.
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Portable soup was extremely convenient. It doesn't take up very much space, it's very light,
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it's a very condensed food source, and it's very flavorful in that very condensed form.
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It was used by the military, by travellers...
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[It was] even used as an invalid food source at times, especially aboard ships, so it was used in many different situations
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but it was very difficult to make, especially in a home setting.
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It took a long period of time to make.
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You have to watch it all the time because if you turn your back on it
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and it got too hot it would ruin all your work, so it was very laborious.
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It was even industrialized in the 18th century.
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Even if you're not a historical reenactor yet, this portable soup makes an excellent homemade
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flavor booster that's all natural. You can use it in sauces, soups, gravies, so it's great for that.
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Now, if you watched our recent bone broth video, this recipe starts off exactly the same way.
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You can do this over a [slow] open fire, you can do it on your stovetop, or
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since you're probably doing this at home, and you want to make this easy; I really suggest using a slow cooker.
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I'm using a medium-size slow cooker. It'll hold about 5 pounds of meat.
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If you want to make a larger batch, I suggest using a kitchen roaster.
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The meat I'm using is beef shank, similar to what we used in our bone broth video.
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Beef shank is a hard-working muscle, so it's a tough cut of meat.
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It has a lot of collagen in it which makes it especially good for this recipe.
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Another good cut of beef would be the neck bone. Other cuts will work, but just not as well.
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Now this can be done with poultry; you can boil that in water and that will be the basis of this portable soup.
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So you can go ahead and place your meat in your slow cooker and cover it with water.
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Most of the recipes we found suggested adding nothing else:
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[because] seasoning can come later when it's actually used as the portable soup.
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Some of the recipes suggest using only the meat, other ones include the bones.
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and that's what we're doing in the recipe today.
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Turn your slow cooker on low and go about your business for the next eight to ten hours.
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Once the time has gone by, remove the meat. You can now pick it clean of the bones and any remaining gristle and fat.
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This is really good tasting beef... At this point turn off your slow cooker and let it cool completely.
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As it cools the fat on the top will solidify making it very easy to remove.
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Once you're done with that, strain your broth and filter it through a piece of cloth to get out all the settled particles of meat. So go ahead and rinse out your slow
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cooker and return to clarified broth to it and turn it back on low
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Let it go and leave the lid off; let it cook for anywhere from 18 to 24 hours.
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What we're doing at this stage in the process is reducing the broth down to a gelatin.
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Gelatin is an interesting thing: don't expect to be able to reduce this down into a hard block.
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What you end up with is a nice, medium brown gluey substance.
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If you overcook it, you will burn it, giving it a very, very, unpleasant taste.
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Once your soup reaches this stage turn off your slow cooker and let it cool completely.
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Then you can turn the gel out onto a cloth
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Now the soup is still very gelatinous, to get it to the point where you can store it, put it in your pocket, [et cetera] it needs to be dried.
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Now, you cannot do this with heat. Any temperature of heat, will just turn this into a liquid again;
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and then you'll just burn it. So it needs to be done without heat, you can do this in a dehydrator,
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but you need to make sure the dehydrator doesn't heat anything up.
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The period recipe actually suggests turning it out on to a
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woollen flannel cloth, just like we've done here and flipping it over two or three times a day for
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10 days or two weeks or so. If you want to speed this process up at home, put this on a cooling rack and
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put it in front of a fan, and it'll dry out in a couple of days.
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The end results will be a very stiff paste.
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It's almost like leather. You're going to cut this up into chunks and then
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wrap it up in paper or something similar to store it away. It'll continue to harden as it ages
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But it's completely usable in this leathery, hard form.
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In our last episode we made a spring soup, we use the portable soup as the base for that,
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so make sure to go back and check out that video.
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