Subtitles section Play video
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Next time. Okay, now they really all want a piece.
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Hi, I'm Tom.
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I'm traveling through one of the most colorful and vibrant countries in the world,
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and with the help of local knowledge, I'll be trying to find out what makes this place so special.
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Join me on a journey through India.
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Our first stop is Mumbai.
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Located on the west coast of the country, it's home to 21 million people.
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Frantic but functional, this is India's economic powerhouse and the home of Bollywood.
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From luxury high rises to some of Asia's biggest slums, everyone here lives in the fast lane.
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This is one of the most densely-populated cities in the world.
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Getting around on the roads can be pretty slow, so we're going to take the train.
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This looks pretty busy.
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Right. On we go.
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Not too bad.
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Mumbai's suburban railway is fast but crowded,
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with 11 million people using the city's public transport every day.
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The elbow-to-elbow experience, however, may be coming to an end.
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A new Mumbai metro network more than 100 miles long is being built.
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Its aim is to boost the city's rail capacity and reduce traffic congestion.
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For your wife?
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Lovely roses.
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Can I smell?
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Perfect, smells fresh.
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Well, that wasn't too bad, no worse than the Central line in London,
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and now we're in downtown Mumbai ready to explore the rest of the city.
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To help me do that and understand where this city gets its energy from,
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I'm meeting up with a fellow journalist.
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Kevin?
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Hi, how are you?
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Hi, all good.
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Nice to meet you.
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Welcome to Mumbai.
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Thank you very much.
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Kevin Lee is a reporter for CNBC TV18 and has lived and worked in the city for several years.
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Have you gotten a chance to look around the city a little bit?
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Yeah, we came in on the train.
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Did you get pushed around a little bit?
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A little bit, a little bit.
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It's part of the charm of the city.
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Have you eaten anything? Do you want to get a bite?
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No, but I could eat.
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Let's get you some Bombay delicacies.
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Mumbai's reputation for street food is legendary, but its famous fare was actually born out of necessity.
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The city's early prosperity came from its textile mills, and workers needed quick and cheap food on the go.
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The mills may have faded into the past, but the cheap eats have not.
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And in this 24-hour megacity, the streets are still buzzing with thousands of hawkers dishing out their specialties late into the night.
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Khau Galli literally translates, the street of food.
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So you have these all over Bombay, but it's not very fancy food.
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It's just functional food that you can get in 10, 15 minutes, you can have a whole meal.
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We're going to try some chaat first. Chaat is a famous Bombay thing. I don't know exactly how to define it.
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It's just a mixture of a lot of flavors, savory, sweet, spicy, etc, just thrown together.
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How spicy are we talking?
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Oh, this isn't spicy. You don't have to worry that much.
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Okay, we'll start low.
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We'll start you off easy, yeah?
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And get a bit of everything in one bite.
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Okay, that's quite a big mouthful…
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Yeah, yeah. You can do it.
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There's just a lot going on. Right?
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A lot.
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You can't isolate one flavor.
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There's loads of different textures as well.
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He's got a tiny little kitchen back there, like this tiny stall and he manages to create
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something that even looks pretty as well as tastes good.
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So now we're going to try something called pav bhaji, which is another thing that's famous in Bombay.
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This one involves a fair bit of cooking, unlike the chaat.
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So it's this gravy that's smeared with potatoes, tomatoes and a little bit of capsicum, a little bit of onion.
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It's all just mashed together and he serves it with a lot of butter, and pav which is basically bread.
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Absolutely drenched in butter.
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Yeah, I wasn't exaggerating.
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It's just a lot of butter.
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He's used half a kilo!
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Good work.
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Really good.
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Kevin, thank you very much for showing me your Mumbai.
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I hope your stomach is fine tomorrow morning.
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Well if it's not, I blame you.
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Thanks, man. Cheers.
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Refueled, I'm heading to my next stop in the heart of Mumbai.
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But with its limited public transport, we're taking the roads and this is a city famous for its traffic.
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You may not realize it, but there is actually traffic lights at this intersection.
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The guys who installed it must have been laughing because there are no rules.
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Slightly less noisy but no less busy is Dharavi.
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Home to one million people, this is one of the world's largest slums
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and like the rest of the city, it's full of energy and industry.
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I've hired the help of Naynish Salvi, a tour guide attached to the NGO Reality Gives.
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The money from tours of the slums is used to support families and help run educational programs for people that didn't finish school,
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to increase their chances of finding employment.
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The word slum itself surrounds with negativity.
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People always try to relate it with favelas and basically those kinds of things.
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But when they come over here, when they see the kind of things, it's something different to what they expect.
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Because there are thriving businesses in Dharavi slum, that's right?
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Roughly all in total, Dharavi has nearly 10,000 different businesses.
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Wow.
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And if we tell you, the annual amount of revenue generated from this slum,
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only from businesses, is roughly $665 million a year.
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$665 million? That's amazing.
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That money comes from industries like pottery production, which began in Dharavi in the 1840s.
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The slum is also home to a thriving recycling industry, which the city has become increasingly
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dependent upon to manage waste, particularly plastic.
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Everyday people roughly recycle between 13 and 14 tons of plastic a day.
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Hard work?
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Yeah, very hard work sir. 15 hours work here.
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Leather production, however, is what Dharavi's most recognized for,
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and it all started here at the city's first ever leather factory.
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As well as developing its own brand, the factory also supplies leather to fashion houses around the world,
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ensuring that Mumbai maintains its status as the fashion epicenter of India.
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The owner, he was the person who introduced leather production to the city.
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Basically, he started working when he was 12 years old.
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Because sometimes the skins are thinner, some of them are thicker, they need to be surfaced.
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Okay, so it's to a level?
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And all the surfacing makes the skins softer.
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There's a lot of guys here. I mean you've got six guys sorting...
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They need to also be separated by the size as well, the size and the thickness as well.
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They need to check what skins need to be shaved off or not.
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Even just walking down one of the side streets, you wouldn't imagine that
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there's 20 guys in here working hour after hour producing some of these leathers.
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It's kind of amazing that it's all tucked away in these tiny little nooks and crannies of the slums.
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When they say, "I've been inside Dharavi," it means they've actually passed within, from the street.
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They haven't seen what you are able to see today. They just think, "Oh I've seen Dharavi, it's a slum, that's it."
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But to break that barrier, to make them realize what actually they're missing
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is the reason why we are here for.
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This city doesn't seem to stop, so neither am I. I've got one final visit across town before the day ends.
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A bit of retail therapy, but unlike I've ever experienced before.
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So I've come down to Crawford Market, possibly one of the craziest places I've ever been
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but hopefully, we'll find a little bargain, something to take home so that we have a little memento from our trip.
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Crawford Market is the largest and most famous in Mumbai.
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It began as a fruit and vegetable wholesale market way back in 1869,
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and many of the city's big restaurants still come here to source their food.
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But if you're looking for clothes and souvenirs, then the surrounding streets is where you'll find them.
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Love it.
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Could I give you ₹100 for this?
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No ₹100, ₹250 best price, only price.
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Okay.
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Not sure about that, a little bit creepy.
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I'm buying a present for my daughter. It's quite big. I don't think I can fit it in my suitcase.
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Oh, I quite like that. How much is that?
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₹100 only.
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100?
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Do you think it will fit me?
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Yeah, perfect size.
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Cheers guys, thank you.
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Supposed to buy something for other people, but ended up buying something for myself.
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About one-year-old girl.
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Girl, girl, what do you want? Shoes?
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Something traditional Indian, maybe a small sari or something?
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Sweet.
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I don't think my wife will let my daughter wear that, but I think it's quite fun.
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What do you think? How much for?
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₹175.
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How many pieces do you want?
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I only buy one, I only have one child.
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Okay, take it.
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I haven't actually said yes that I'm going to buy it, but he's sort of given it to me.
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₹175?
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₹175.
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What about ₹150?
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Okay then.
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Yeah, or what about ₹100?
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Just terrible at haggling.
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Cheers boss, thank you.
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Thank you, welcome.
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I want to buy a scarf.
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Come, come, please sir.
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Forcing me to sit.
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What about this one here?
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Show me how long two meters is.
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Yeah, yeah.
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Maybe I should have just bought a t-shirt.
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Thank you very much.
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Welcome, another time.
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Cheers, thank you.
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Lovely. It's lovely. No, it's okay.
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If I had to describe my overall impressions of Mumbai, I'd say it's fast-paced and busy.
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That can be overwhelming at first, but getting to meet people who live and work here
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has helped me understand that they all thrive off that energy - and it's infectious.
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All the shopping's now done, and I think I've experienced a fair bit of Mumbai, onto the next stop.
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Hi everyone, thanks for joining us on our journey through India.
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To catch our next stop, make sure you click here.
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And do let us know your favorite travel destinations in the comments below and don't forget to subscribe.