Subtitles section Play video
-
Once, we were all dressed by someone else.
-
Parents picked out a T-shirt; the school dictated what colour our trousers should be.
-
But at some point, we were granted the opportunity to discover who we might be in the world of clothes.
-
We had to decide for ourselves about collars and necklines, fit, colours, patterns, textures and what goes (or doesn't) with what.
-
We learnt to speak about ourselves in the language of garments.
-
Despite the potential silliness and exaggeration of sections of the fashion industry, assembling a wardrobe is a serious and meaningful exercise.
-
Based on our looks or background, others are always liable to come to quick and, not very rounded decisions about who we are.
-
Too often, their judgment doesn't quite get us right.
-
They might assume that because of where we come from, we must be quite snobbish or rather resentful; based on our work we might get typecast as dour or superficial; the fact that we're very sporty might lead people to see us as not terribly intelligent; or an attachment to a particular political outlook might be associated with being unnervingly earnest.
-
Clothes provide us with a major opportunity to correct some of these assumptions.
-
When we get dressed, we are, in effect, operating as a tour guide, offering to show people around ourselves.
-
We're highlighting interesting or attractive things about who we are and, in the process, we're clearing up misconceptions.
-
We're acting like artists painting a self-portrait: deliberately guiding the viewer's perception of who they might be.
-
In 1961, the English painter Peter Blake portrayed himself wearing a denim jacket, jeans and trainers.
-
He was deliberately nuancing the view most of his contemporaries would have had of him: based on knowing that he was a successful and rather intellectual painter.
-
He might have been thought of as slightly aloof and highly refined; detached from, and censorious of, ordinary life.
-
But his clothes speak about very different aspects of his personality: they go out of their way to tell us that he's quite modest; he's interested in talking about pop music; he sees his art largely as a kind of manual labour.
-
His clothes, like ours, give us a crucial introduction to the self.
-
This explains the curious phenomenon whereby if we're staying with good friends, we can spend a lot less time thinking about our clothes, compared with the anxiety about what to wear that can grip us with strangers.
-
With good friends, we might sit around in a dressing gown or just hastily slip on any old jumper.
-
They know who we are already; they're not relying on our clothes for clues.
-
It's a strange but profound fact that certain items of clothing can excite us.
-
When we put them on or see others wearing them, we're turned on: a particular style of jacket, the right kind of shoes or the perfect shirt might prove so erotic, we could almost do without a person wearing them.
-
It's tempting to see this kind of fetishism as simply deluded but it is alerting us in an exaggerated way to a much more general and very normal idea: that certain clothes make us very happy.
-
They capture values that we're drawn and want to get closer to.
-
The erotic component is just an extension of a more general and understandable sympathy.
-
The French novelist Stendhal wrote: "Beauty is the promise of happiness."
-
And every item of clothing we're drawn to contains an allusion to a different sort of happiness.
-
We might see a very desirable kind of competence and confidence in a particular pair of boots.
-
We might meet generosity in a woollen coat or a touching kind of innocence in a hemline.
-
A particular watchstrap may sum up dignity.
-
The way a specific collar encases the neck could strike us as commanding and authoritative.
-
The classic fetishist might be pushing their particular attachments to a maximum and be rather restricted in the choice of items they favour, but they are latching onto a general theme: clothes embody values that enchant and beguile us.
-
By choosing particular sorts of clothes, we are shoring-up our more fragile or tentative characteristics.
-
We're both communicating to others about who we are and strategically reminding ourselves.
-
Our wardrobes contain some of our most carefully-written lines of autobiography.