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The picture above is my home town,
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I’m from a small town on the east coast of Borneo (Malaysia).
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In my teens, my family emigrated to Canada,
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we went from a tropical paradise straight to this frozen land.
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My post graduate studies took me to New York City,
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to a 3-4 year adventure in this grey concrete jungle.
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After graduation, work lured me
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to the glitzy neon fantasies of Hong Kong.
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Every place I’ve lived were
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so drastically different from the last.
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While in Hong Kong,
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I worked on the Chin Suei highway rest stop in Taiwan.
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I saw this small folded paper model
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I made took form as an absolutely real building.
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To a twenty-something year old,
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this was an earth shattering experience.
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When the building opened,
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it got so immensely popular,
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people came to camp out on the grounds, barbecue, hold car meets.
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The renown movie director Tsai Ming-liang
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did an unforgettable musical sequence in the toilet.
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I saw some of our design elements,
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like this auditorium,
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got remodelled into a shark tank,
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and a huge tourist hit.
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There were even allegations of
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illegal extensions to increase retail area.
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Despite all this,
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Chin Suei is still the highest grossing
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rest stop in Taiwan,
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pulling in NT$600 million annually,
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the second highest
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lag way behind at only NT$2-300 million.
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Thus began my experience
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of Taiwan’s many “strange ways”.
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I settled in Taiwan,
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and set up my practice here in Taipei.
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I feel really strongly that we architects
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are much like frontline workers here.
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We see a lot of the growing pains
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of a developing city,
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witness a great many strange conditions,
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which we have to face up to and resolve.
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I’m constantly asked 3 questions,
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which I hate answering.
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Why is Taipei so ugly?
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Who is your favourite architect?
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Which is your favorite building?
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Foreign visitors or Taiwanese alike,
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hearing that I'm an architect,
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will invariably ask me these 3 questions.
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I really hate answering them,
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because in my mind,
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space and architectural experience
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can not be described with one building
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or one grand master.
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For example, this is my favorite building,
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on the edge of Ximenting,
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an entire building facade made of stairs.
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Not sure why it was built like that,
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I think it’s incredible that this exists.
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I doubt if any client would agree
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to building something like this now.
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so this is super great.
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Xiangyang Road, is also my favorite.
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This phenomenon is where
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the proxy wars of major Taiwanese corporations
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are fought out on this little street
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every year in May and June.
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Such energy, all happening here,
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totally incredible.
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No architect can design
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these wonders in their spaces.
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This, is what I consider
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the ultimate spiritual center.
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The idea of “spiritual uplift” is so potently expressed here.
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The temple is all about spiritual uplift,
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beetle nuts gives you a mental high,
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haircuts or makeovers are facelifts,
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What an ingenious program mix.
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Abroad, we could never ever get this mixture,
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not even if we begged the gods.
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To me, these phenomena emerged from the city,
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and in a way,
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represent the collective desires of its citizens.
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I call these phenomena “Urbanmatic”,
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as they are automatic or self-generated urban phenomena.
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I think Urbanmatic indirectly affects my designs sometimes,
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while at times it can be a direct inspiration.
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This building here seems fairly normal, nothing unusual.
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But on closer inspection, all the ground floor shops are beetle nut vendors.
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These typically scattered road side shacks actually organised as a “beetle nut main street”.
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Extraordinary.
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Take this audacious illegal addition,
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making a looping ring high up on the 7th or 8th floor,
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totally fierce, so gutsy.
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A hand made bridge,an umbilical cord linking the buildings together.
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A hand made bridge, an umbilical cord linking the buildings together.
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This is a 500m long expressway exit,
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where the entire street becomes an architectural space.
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When we had the opportunity to design the Taiwan Rail Museum,
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using movement to sculpt a space became a big motivation for me.
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We re-interpreted rail elements with the experience of light and shadow,
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We re-interpreted rail elements with the experience of light and shadow,
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as these elevated public walkways at the visitor center,
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for people to journey across.
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This project is located at the Railway Bureau at the North Gate,
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it’s a competition project we won, now in our 6th year on this project.
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Even after 6 years, we’re still unable to apply for a building permit.
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This is because this greater area is the “Taipei Gateway Project”.
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This grand urban project stretches westwards from here
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all the way to our museum site.
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The government has yet to quantify key factors
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such as floor area ratio and site coverage.
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Since this master plan has no planning specifics,
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therefore no permit application can be made.
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It is very common to observe this tremendous lag
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between urban planning and architecture in Taipei.
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Like this project apparently built after road widening.
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A brand new residential tower
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unfortunately has a half-demolished building as its front,
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a very difficult to occupy installation piece.
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This strongly reflects the lag between planning and architecture.
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Seeing this example makes me feel that
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our inability to apply for a permit even after 6 years is really nothing,
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it really is so totally common.
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But then again, government planning doesn't always result in great spaces.
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We’ve worked on this very peculiar planning project once.
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The client’s brief for the project,
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is a proposal for negotiating allowable floor area with the planning department.
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Existing on site is their most profitable gas station.
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They are also Christians, who hope to build a church to give back to their ministry.
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And of course they also want the usual residential, hotel, office and shopping mall too.
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whatever you can think of, they want.
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On top of all that, they also want a “transportation depot”.
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Why a depot? Because a depot will ensure the largest gains in allowablefloor area.
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So we were commissioned to create a design as such.
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Gas stations, churches and multiple dwelling, these programs don’t work together,
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they are antagonistic to each other.
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So we came up with the idea,
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that references the all-you-can-eat roast meat
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shish-kabobs ubiquitous in night markets.
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with each program land use tightly “skewered” together
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on a small site,
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forming this seemingly normal final massing.
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This was our way to sort out such a crazy program mix.
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Take a look at this building’s illegal extensions, which is so very systematic,
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strata council may have gotten one contractor
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to do a unified illegal build.
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We recently got a retrofit project in Ximenting.
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I almost fainted when I saw the project site.
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How could this possibly be “beautified”?
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We thought perhaps the spirit of systematic illegal extensions can be adapted,
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but in a way that would also expose the existing conditions, like this peeling red wall.
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We want to express the old traces through the new facade design,
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each trace one on top of the other, hence the project name “Layers”..
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Underneath the new layer of open lattice expanded aluminium,
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the weathered facade can also be seen.
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The old and new layers stack like book spines,
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these semi transparent layers are then illuminated at night,
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like layers upon layers of peeling paint one find in old buildings.
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This kind of layering phenomena can be seen
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throughout Ximenting,
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On this building, we see real space,
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screen space and ad space,
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completely obscuring an entire building;
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like this cram school, which becomes a sort of grey architecture.
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Here the architecture has lost its form, eaten up by its own statements.
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One of my favorites:
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This is by a certain famous spokesperson debating with another
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by making use of an entire building facade as a canvas for his arguments.
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Perhaps most of you think this is quite ugly,
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but I love Urbanmatic.
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It is such a unique energy.
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Ximenting is a very special place
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congested with cars, signage and people.
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When we started to design a hotel here,
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I really wanted to take this intense energy flow, urban flow,
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and transform that into an urban landscape of symbols.
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we looked at energy flow diagrams.
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We wanted a very natural flow, and didn't want to represent movement manually.
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so we used parametric computations on a simple triangle.
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By shifting the position of the apexes,
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we got 55 units of movement,
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applied as urban landscape on an entire building.
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During design, the room layout plans were constantly adjusted.
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Manually readjusting the arrows to fit these changes would be utterly unbearable,
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so we’d regenerate a new facade design after every adjustment.
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A software application of “flow” output as instant construction drawings
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was quite a fun way to work.
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The flow idea also extends to our lighting design, of swaying fiber optics fringes.
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Speaking of fringes, this is also one of my favorites.
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I’m sure you’ve all seen these parking cities.
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What’s cool is that they are cities of fringes.
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These fringes are really everywhere, at gas stations and parking lots.
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I think it’s so amazing
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that they can create unified spaces on such a large scale.
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When we designed a weekend house in Taitung,
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we referenced this approach.
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Taitung enjoys incredibly mild weather when there’s no typhoon,
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so we created an outdoor living that is sheltered from the sun by these fringes,
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with the rooms as individual, free standing “boxes”.
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These 4 boxes hold the kitchen,
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living room, bedroom and bathroom,
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and enclosed by 2 skin layers, like a beetle.
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A hard shell protects the house from the typhoon gusts,
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A soft shell protects against the sun and insects.
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This soft shell is made of insect netting and fringes.
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A simple concept organization:
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4 living boxes organically placed in the landscape,
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enclosed by a metal frame with 2 skins.
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In this house, all the living happens semi outdoors,
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inspired by our own Taitung experience of eating and napping outdoor throughout the day;
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a very special lifestyle.
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On top of the living boxes, maybe you can even get a tan.
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We’ve customised and tested these fringes,
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now flame retardant and and of unique dimensions.
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The house of hard-soft shell design also glows at night.
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Back to Taipei, to the historical railway platform right behind where we’re sitting here tonight.
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It used to be the busiest rail depot of Taipei,
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all freight trains converged onto this very platform.
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I love this site,
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as it offers a rare chance to see the real skyline of Taipei.
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By skyline, I don’t mean the luxury-towers-rising-above-central-park type of skyline,
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rather, it’s the bare naked urban skyline of a developing and changing city.
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you can see all the colorful roof extensions
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in green, red and yellow.
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We expressed this sense of locality into the paving design,
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and on the platform, conceived a “skyline structure”
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that is inspired by this urban fabric.
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Our structure spans a large 25m, a super skyline design.
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The structural module then repeats horizontally to create a multipurpose arts space,
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it straddles the historical platform on old train wheels,
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and glides on repurposed tracks,
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and can telescope from a 10m mass to a 75m path,
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The resultant form evokes a city on the move,
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calling to mind the silhouettes of organic asian urban systems.
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>From my own experience,
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a truly creative city
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is not about copying the success of others,
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It is much more important to recognise our own strangeness,
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then we can find opportunities for transformation.
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I encourage you to embrace your strangeness,
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for when you embrace your own strangeness, you will find beauty within.
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Subtitles by the Amara.org community