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Look at this note; it's from the Blue Book Modeling Agency in 1945.
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It says Norma Jeane, who you might also know as Marilyn Monroe, was in fact, a size 12.
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She was.
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but back in the 50s, a size 12 was very thin.
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That was a model.
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You know, a size 12 then would be about a size 6 now.
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Well, to be exact, she would be a size 8 at Topshop, 6 at Zara, and 4 to 6 at American Apparel.
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To actually show you the inconsistencies, I went shopping.
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I bought 3 jeans at 3 different stores, all in the same size.
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We’re already off to a bad start.
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These all look different.
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This is not a 4.
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This one is the one in the middle.
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This one fits!
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Hold up.
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It won’t zip.
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I give up.
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Let’s wind back a little bit.
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It was the Napoleonic wars and later the Civil War in the US that demanded a sizing system for mass production of clothing for the first time.
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It was for men’s uniforms.
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After that, men’s suit sizes were based on the chest measurement and the rest was calculated accordingly, assuming that their bodies were in proportion.
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The demands for mass production of uniforms escalated and ready-made clothing became really popular.
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By the end of the nineteenth century, most people were wearing ready-made clothes.
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In 1939, the US government funded statisticians to collect the weight and 58 measurements of 15,000 women.
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They only used white women, even though they took measurements of women of color, they did not include them in the study or in the calculations.
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The women who are most likely to turn out for these studies were the poor women because they would be paid.
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So I think the data set even back then was possibly malnourished women, certainly poor women, and not very diverse group of women… and that’s what we started with.
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They were looking for key measurements that could predict the sizes of other parts of the body, the way chest sizes had for men.
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But women’s bodies, with variable breast and hip sizes, were much harder to summarize with a single number.
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So, the data was used to create a system in 1958 with sizes from 8 to 42, which was just an arbitrary number based out of bust size, combined with a letter for height and a plus minus for hips.
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The sizing chart was really unpopular, so they made some updates, but finally in 1983 it was completely withdrawn.
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In the 1970s and 80s, companies started labeling sizes down, and adding lower numbers like 2, zero and now even a double zero.
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So the waist measurement that used to be a size 12 became an 8.
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Vanity sizing specifically, is when the size on the label is lowered artificially, in order to attempt to get somebody to buy the garment.
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So you’re appealing to the person’s vanity.
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Sizing became a marketing tool.
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I think it’s done because the women are getting bigger and we’re just addressing that.
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When the first standardizing chart came out in 1958, it was mostly built out of malnourished, white women.
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Now, that there’s such a wide group of people to cover, the retailers are picking a certain group of people to sell to, honing in on what works with that group and what doesn’t.
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I think we’re more aiming for our own target markets.
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When Abercrombie & Fitch does their sizing, they’re sizing it to their target market not to me.
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And we kept tweaking that information until we sold more garments and could lower the return rate.
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That means that even brands owned by the same company will have inconsistent sizes.
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A size 8 at Banana Republic will have the same hip size as a size 2 at the Gap.
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So if you get frustrated while shopping…
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It’s not you, it’s the industry, it’s not women’s bodies, we’re fine the way we are.
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They are just random numbers, they don’t mean anything.
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And if you don’t like the size, just cut it out of your clothes.