Subtitles section Play video
-
(percussive music)
-
- Hi, I'm Dr. Dendy Engelman.
-
I'm a board-certified dermatologist in Manhattan
-
and I work for Manhattan Dermatology and Cosmetic Surgery.
-
I'm here to take a deep dive into
-
the Go to Bed With Me comments section
-
in order to get to the bottom of some of
-
your burning questions.
-
In this episode, we're gonna talk specifically about
-
process, tools, and injectibles.
-
First step, we're gonna talk about process.
-
(percussive music)
-
The first comment is from Mona Sabbar.
-
"Dear Doctor, I'm really concerned about dairy products
-
"and their relation to acne.
-
"Can you explain it briefly, thank you," heart.
-
Okay Mona, you are exactly right.
-
Dairy does play into acne and there are two things
-
in diet that can play into increased breakouts
-
and we used to think that it was chocolate
-
or greasy food and that's all kinda been debunked
-
and the two things that really have been shown
-
and proven in the dermatologic literature
-
for making increased breakouts are dairy
-
and high glycemic index foods, so those are foods
-
that spike our blood sugar really quickly.
-
So what I tell patients every day is pay attention
-
to your diet and how it affects your skin.
-
If you feel like you had an indulgent weekend of pizza
-
and ice cream and you're breaking out on Monday,
-
then maybe we have some interplay with dairy
-
being a culprit in our breakouts.
-
So let's try to eliminate that as much as possible.
-
The good news about skin is that if it's good
-
for your body, it's probably good for your skin as well,
-
so we have to think about healthy living,
-
clean eating, drinking a lot of water.
-
Probiotics to take are not only good for gut health
-
but they also are great for skin health
-
and so that can be an easy way to implement
-
some tiny changes that not only make you look better,
-
but make you feel better as well.
-
So Vee V said "celebrity skin is 70% procedures
-
"and 30% skincare."
-
I would put a pretty significant percentage
-
also on great genetics.
-
I mean we all are kind of dealing with the hand
-
we're dealt and certainly celebrities are born
-
with some pretty good hands in their appearance
-
and stature and figures.
-
That said, not all celebrities have great skin.
-
I treat a lot of celebrities and I help them
-
with a lot of skin issues, whether it's acne,
-
rosacea, sensitivities, and procedures are also
-
a big part of looking great.
-
I always have patients who come to me
-
and they just think that celebrities flawlessly
-
and effortlessly look amazing and that is not the case.
-
There's a huge commitment to both skincare
-
and procedures, almost weekly, in order
-
to maintain their looks.
-
One thing that I think patients can do at home
-
that is very much like celebrities is really just
-
stick to a good routine.
-
I mean there's not a ton of magic in the fact
-
that all these great products that we have at home
-
will not work if they just sit in the medicine cabinet,
-
and the people who I treat who are celebrities
-
are certainly dedicated to having good skin,
-
and they know that if they kinda slack off
-
on their products that really work for them,
-
then their skin doesn't look as great.
-
Maddie said "I watched a video where a dermatologist
-
"said that if you mix skincare products
-
"from different brands, you're mixing different chemistries,
-
"his words, and can cause irritation.
-
"Is there any truth to this?"
-
Maddie, I would say that there's probably
-
a little bit of truth in the testing.
-
I mean obviously if you're a formulator for skincare,
-
you want everybody to buy every product in your offering.
-
The reality is if you use an over the counter cleanser
-
and somebody else's vitamin C, and someone else's retinol,
-
it's probably gonna live compatibly together,
-
but we don't know because they haven't
-
been formulated together, and so there probably is
-
some truth to mixing chemistries, but I don't think
-
that it's gonna counteract the efficacy
-
of each individual product if you wanna mix and match.
-
That being said, you certainly want to make sure
-
that you're using the right products at the right time,
-
and there are certain chemicals just categorically
-
that you may not want to mix.
-
For example, you might not want to do a very strong
-
glycolic acid and then follow that with a retinol,
-
that's gonna be too irritating for the skin.
-
So it's not necessarily a formulator per se,
-
but just the active ingredient.
-
Lady S says "can we stop with the microtear BS and lies?
-
"There's literally no such thing."
-
Well Lady S, there is literally such thing,
-
and I see it all the time and the good news is
-
that we've gotten away from a lot of the harsh exfoliants
-
that are in a lot of formulas.
-
I mean when I think back to when I was an adolescent,
-
the St. Ives Apricot Scrub was one that had
-
like harsh particles in it, and that can cause
-
microirritation and tears over time.
-
Certainly under the eye, where that skin's very delicate,
-
around the nose if you ever look at people
-
and they have like these dilated vessels
-
that are there, those are areas where the skin
-
is very sensitive and prone to injury.
-
So we want to love our skin at home
-
and we don't want to do anything too harsh
-
in order to irritate it, but the reality is,
-
you can cause some injury in your skin
-
based on certain skincare products or even devices.
-
Munira Jamali says "you do know that clinical trials
-
"have proven there is no benefit
-
"to consuming collagen in your diet?
-
"Collagen is produced endogenously by your body."
-
Munira, you're half right.
-
Collagen is produced by the body but you can
-
increase your body's stores by oral ingestion of collagen.
-
And this is where it gets really tricky
-
'cause not all ingestible collagens are created equally.
-
There are studies that have been documented
-
in our dermatologic literature that show
-
that they've not only traced it from ingestion
-
but it's been incorporated into the dermis
-
in meaningful amounts enough to decrease
-
the depth of crows' feet by 20% in just eight weeks.
-
Now it's not the only thing that we can do
-
to create collagen, you can also use retinoids
-
and you can use vitamin C, these are all
-
different ways topically to also do that,
-
because the problem with ingestible collagen
-
is there's no vegan form, and so it needs come
-
from an animal source and a lot of people
-
want to shy away from that and I understand
-
that's certainly a personal choice.
-
If that's something that you follow in the lifestyle,
-
then you can go at it in a topical application
-
in order to increase more collagen production.
-
The one that I recommend to patients
-
is called Verisol Collagen, V-E-R-I-S-O-L,
-
and that's the one that's really been proven
-
in the literature to support the skin,
-
increase total body stores of collagen,
-
it's not just helpful for your skin
-
but also for your joints because collagen
-
is one of the main building blocks and substances
-
of connective tissue.
-
Now let's get into the fun stuff, tools.
-
(percussive music)
-
"Are cleansing brushes, washcloths really necessary,
-
"and can you wash your face in the shower?"
-
Yeah, you can totally wash your face in the shower
-
and you don't have to have a cleansing brush or tool.
-
A lot of people, especially dermatologists
-
and those who are treating a lot of rosacea
-
or people with sensitive skin actually
-
are a little bit hesitant to recommend cleansing tools
-
because it can irritate the underlying skin condition.
-
So if you're happy about washing your face in the shower
-
and that's working for you and you don't have acne
-
or breakouts or any skin problems,
-
then by all means, continue to do that.
-
So if I were gonna rank things from most gentle
-
to strongest I would certainly say that hands
-
are probably the most gentle, we can obviously
-
regulate and feel how our pressure that we're using.
-
Then I would do like muslin cloth or something
-
very soft that is helping to remove
-
but not with any texture.
-
Then I would go to textured washcloth.
-
Then I would go to cleansing brushes.
-
The problem that I find with cleansing brushes
-
is that people sometimes get into trouble
-
by giving a lot of pressure.
-
You just want the brush to do the work,
-
so just hold it where it's barely contacting the skin
-
and it's gonna exfoliate for you, but people
-
who have acne kind of want to beat it up
-
and they're really angry with it
-
and they press into the skin, and then over time
-
that can exacerbate the acne that's underlying.
-
So we want to be really gentle in our cleansing,
-
we want it to be effective but you don't have
-
to spend a lot of money in order to get a clean face.
-
So So Zen asks "question, what is your opinion
-
"on at-home dermarollers?
-
"Who should use them, how and how often
-
"should they be used?
-
"Also, jade rollers.
-
"Do they have a scientific basis
-
"or are they just a gimmick?"
-
I like home dermarollers for certain indications
-
like those who have acne scarring,
-
but not on active acne.
-
I think that that can worsen existing acne,
-
so if it's old acne scarring where people
-
have textural irregularities, I do find
-
that you can get some improvement
-
with persistent at-home rolling.
-
We do in office procedures where we do
-
much more aggressive microneedling,
-
but some people can't afford that or they don't
-
have access to those who offer it,
-
so it's certainly better than nothing
-
and it can help with textural changes.
-
That said, we wanna be really careful with the products
-
that we're using when we're undergoing
-
these at-home dermarollers, because some things
-
can make it more irritating 'cause you've opened
-
up channels into the skin and so it's kind of
-
being absorbed deeper into the skin
-
and can be really irritating.
-
For jade rollers, I really like them.
-
I don't know if they're a gimmick or not
-
but I think that there's a lot to be said
-
about facial massage.
-
It's not as hot in the U.S. as it is in Asia,
-
but those who do this frequently really,
-
I find benefit for them.
-
Their skin looks better, it's less congested,
-
especially under the eyes and areas that tend to be
-
a little bit more puffy.
-
It helps to improve the lymphatic drainage
-
and so I'm a big fan of facial massage.
-
I think that it's great and if this is a way
-
that helps you to remember to do it,
-
even for five minutes a day,
-
it's not gonna hurt and it may help.
-
One of my favorite tools is one called Conture,
-
which is C-O-N-T-U-R-E, and it's basically like
-
a gym for your face, it uses pneumatic compression
-
to pull the skin up into the device
-
and then puts it right back down
-
and that increases blood supply, oxygenation,
-
and over time helps stimulate collagen.
-
So it's kind of a fix-all for whatever issue you're having,
-
whether it's pore size, fine lines, wrinkles,
-
you can use it on the face, the neck, the chest,
-
and so it's one that's kinda from here to here,
-
one size fits all and you just need one device,