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Ramit Sethi's I Will Teach You to be Rich is a wildly popular personal finance book,
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and for good reason.
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These are the key points you need to know to be on your way to financial freedom and
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leading a rich life.
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Dr. Jubbal, MedSchoolInsiders.com.
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Since my last year of medical school, I began a deep dive in personal finance and investing.
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I only wish I did so sooner, and that's why we're covering I Will Teach You to Be
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Rich — so you can get a jump start on your own financial wellbeing.
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As with all of my book summaries, which you can find on my book summary playlist, I'll
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be covering the author's main points, but also adding some of my own commentary.
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There's a lot that I cannot cover in a brief video, so if you'd like to read the entire
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book, you can find a link in the description.
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For many domains in life, whether weight loss or finance, people focus on the smaller details
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and obsess over 1 percent here and 2 percent there, missing the bigger picture of setting
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a solid foundation.
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In weight loss, people focus on the minutiae of avoiding carbs or the benefits of apple
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cider vinegar rather than the bigger picture of caloric intake versus caloric expenditure.
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Similarly, with finances, people get caught up with what the experts are predicting or
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what's the hottest stock, rather than the basics like automatic saving and investing
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into index funds.
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By debating these minor points, people are absolved of responsibility in needing to actually
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do anything.
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As Ramit says, “Just as you don't have to be a certified nutritionist to lose weight
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or an automotive engineer to drive a car, you don't have to know everything about
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personal finance to be rich.
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I'll repeat myself: You don't have to be an expert to get rich.”
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As I've said before on this channel, facts are more important than your feelings, and
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Ramit shares a similar sentiment.
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If you feel bad or shameful about your piss poor money management, our job isn't to
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make you feel better, but rather to tell you the truth so you can actually get a handle
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on your situation.
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I love that he ruthlessly cuts at the rising victim culture.
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You know the type — they're all around.
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Rather than actually working on fixing their situation, they find it easier to be cynical
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and blame others for their problems.
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And if you point out how to help them or the logical fallacies in their self-victimizing
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argument, they won't have it.
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They don't want results, they want an excuse not to take action.
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At the end of the day, it's entirely up to you.
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You can be a victim and complain about politics or the economy or boomers, or take control
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of your life.
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Or as Ramit says,
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“Listen up, crybabies: This isn't your grandma's house and I'm not going to bake
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you cookies and coddle you.
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A lot of your financial problems are caused by one person: you.
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Instead of blaming circumstances and corporate America for your financial situation, you
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need to focus on what you can change yourself.”
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Some people think credit cards are inherently evil — but remember, black and white thinking
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is rarely correct.
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Sure, credit card companies can make a lot of money at your expense, but that's only
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if you let them.
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If you use credit cards properly, they actually offer massive benefits, from cash back or
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points for travel, to warranty extension, fraud protection, and even helping you automatically
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track and categorize your spending.
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The key is that you need to pay them off in full every month.
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If you don't, you're a sucker paying 14% or more in interest.
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If you have a balance on your cards right now, work aggressively in paying it off as
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soon as possible.
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You can even call the company to negotiate a lower APR.
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Ramit has a script of how to do so in the book.
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Credit cards are about more than just these perks, though.
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They're also a fundamental way to build good credit, meaning a high FICO score, which
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essentially tells lenders how risky it would be to lend money to you.
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Strong credit can save you boat loads of money in the future by helping you secure better
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loans on your future purchases — whether that be a car, a home, or even refinancing
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your student loans.
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Here are some guidelines to credit card usage: Pay your credit card regularly — not only
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to avoid interest, but also to build your credit score.
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Try to get fees on your card waived.
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For an annual fee on a premium credit card, you may want to downgrade with a product change
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to a no-fee credit card.
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Keep cards for as long as possible, as a longer history of credit improves your score.
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For this reason, set up automatic payments or subscriptions services on old credit cards
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you no longer regularly use.
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Otherwise, they may be shut down due to inactivity.
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Improve your credit utilization ratio.
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That means either spending less on your card, or getting more credit.
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But only get more credit if you're debt free.
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There are two additional methods of more advanced credit card usage: zero percent transfers
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and credit card churning.
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The zero percent transfer game is when you open up a credit card that has an introductory
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0% APR for balance transfers or cash advances.
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People take this money for 6 months, or however long the terms are, stick it in a high yield
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savings account, and then plan to return the money that they borrowed and pocket the interest.
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This is a silly game with a poor risk profile.
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Very minimal upside, but a potential for substantial downside.
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As Ramit says, “this is a distraction that gets you only short-term results.
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You're much better off building a personal finance infrastructure that focuses on long-term
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growth, not on getting a few bucks here or there.”
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I agree with Ramit on zero percent transfers, but I disagree with him on the topic of credit
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card churning.
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He writes it off as something that's too risky and too complex to be worthwhile.
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And I actually completely understand why he stated this in his book and I don't blame
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him — after all, he's writing to a broad audience.
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If not carefully executed, credit card churning can leave someone in a much worse off financial
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situation.
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But the upside is also much greater when executed properly.
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I've spoken about how credit card churning has saved me tens of thousands of dollars
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on my credit card churning playlist on my personal channel.
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For the average consumer who likely has credit card debt, Ramit's advice makes a lot of
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sense, and is a great place to start.
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But if you're more financially savvy and have the basics down, there's much more
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to credit card optimization than included in this book.
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Next, at which institutions should you put your hard earned money?
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Ramit has no issue calling out bad players like Wells Fargo, and highlights companies
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and banks he's enjoyed working with, including Schwab for his checking account and Vanguard
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for his investments.
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I actually use the exact same.
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You'll see users on Reddit arguing over which savings account is best because of a
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few basis points.
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If you have $5,000 saved in your bank as an emergency fund and you get a 1.5% versus a
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2% rate, that's the difference between $75 and $100 per year.
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A $25 difference over 12 months.
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As Ramit says, “turn your attention from the micro to the macro.
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Stop focusing on picking up pennies and instead focus on the Big Wins to craft your Rich Life.”
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Or maybe you're on the other end of the spectrum, and you only have $300 saved up.
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The interest it spits off each year is negligible.
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The interest amount is important here — it's about building the right habits, particularly
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when the amounts are small, so that as your income grows, you already have useful habits
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and systems in place.
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When people talk about investing, it elicits a wide range of emotions.
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Some people are afraid of the stock market because of fears of losing that money, when
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in reality holding onto it as cash is a surefire way to lose value through inflation.
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Ultimately, wealth and financial freedom doesn't come from a high income, but rather from how
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much you've saved and invested over time.
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There are doctors living paycheck to paycheck because they never learned to save, despite
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making well into the six figures.
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Here are the key points from the chapter: * Before investing into taxable accounts,
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first maximize your tax-advantaged accounts, meaning your retirement accounts.
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This primarily means your 401k and IRA.
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* Understand that Roth contributions to retirement accounts are post-tax, and Traditional contributions
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to retirement accounts are pre-tax.
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Post-tax means you've already paid tax on the money, and it will grow and can be withdrawn
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in retirement without any additional taxes.
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Pre-tax means you've contributing the money without paying any taxes on that part of your
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income.
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It will grow without being taxed, but when you withdraw the money in the future, your
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taxes are deferred to that point in time.
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If you're young and have a lower income, Roth contributions are preferred.
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If you have a high income and tax bracket, go with Traditional contributions.
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* After maxing out your 401k and IRA, max out your Health Savings Account, or HSA.
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During orientation week at medical school, we got a talk from a supposed financial expert.
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All I remember from the talk is that buying $3 lattes every day from Starbucks adds up
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quick so don't do it.
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While this may make sense when you're a broke student living on loans, too many self
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proclaimed financial experts focus on cost cutting in these minor ways.
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The problem is, there's a floor as to how much money you can save.
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After a certain point, your quality of life and happiness begins to suffer.
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On the other hand, you can always make more money and save more money.
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The blanket advice in financial circles to not spend any money is actually a limiting
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paradigm.
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“We were taught to generically apply the principle of 'Don't spend money on that!'
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to everything, meaning we try half-heartedly to cut back, fail, then guiltily berate ourselves—and
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continue overspending on things we don't even care about…
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Everybody talks about how to save money, but nobody teaches you how to spend.”
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Most people spend too much and don't save enough.
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On the other end of the spectrum are the personal finance aficionados who cannot stop saving,
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creating their own prison of frugality.
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From the financial independence subreddit, one person writes, “Looking back at the
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past few years of my life and at my bank account, I would gladly give away a hefty chunk of
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it and work longer if it meant I could have experienced more of the world and found more
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passions.
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I built my savings, but I never built my life.”
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To address both overspending and underspending, Ramit suggests Conscious Spending, whereby
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you aggressively save and cut costs in the domains in your life that that aren't a
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priority, but you let loose and spend heavily in the areas that make you happy.
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Just be careful with this principle as it relates to your hobby.
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As a car enthusiast, cars are something that can become incredibly expensive.
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However, if you're a candle enthusiast, the upper limit on how much you could spend
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on candles is much lower.
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To be more conscious with your spending, Ramit suggests canceling subscriptions and approaching
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these expenses a la carte.
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For example, rather than cable, just buy the channels you enjoy.
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This makes you more aware of your spending, but it requires more manual input — it works
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against automation.
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It's a trade off.
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Mindful spending also requires you're aware of where you money goes.
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Mint.com is a great tool that automatically syncs with your credit cards and banks to
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categorize your spending and trends.
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That and Personal Capital are the two tools I've used to be mindful of how I spend,
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but You Need a Budget is also a popular choice, although it requires manual entry.
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Ramit emphasizes the importance of automation and doing the up front work so that your system
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takes care of things moving forward, with minimal intervention from you.
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Sound familiar?
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Your checking account should be like your email inbox.
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All money first comes to your checking account, and from there it'll be automatically allocated.
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Credit card auto-payments, for example, should pay your cards in full and draw from your
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checking account, but you need to be sure you never overdraft.
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With every paycheck, a certain amount of money should go towards your savings and investing.
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By automating this, you never have to remember to save, it just happens in the background.
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By keeping this up over the long term, you can work towards financial independence, whereby
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your investments kick off enough money that you don't even need to work anymore.
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We call that FIRE — financial independence, retirement early.
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When it comes to investing, where should you put your money?
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Ramit follows the same philosophy put forth by Warren Buffet and Jack Bogle — low cost
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index funds.
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Actively managed mutual funds, after accounting for fees and expenses, rarely ever outperform
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the market.
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For this reason, passive index fund investing is widely accepted as the best means of investing
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for us regular folk.
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These funds simply mirror various indexes of the stock market, like the S&P 500, and
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don't try to beat it.
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And the expense ratios on these funds are tiny.
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For example, VTSAX has an expense ratio of 0.04%, whereas actively managed funds are
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closer to 1 or even 2%.
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While this sounds small, realize your annual returns are generally only 6-10%, so the 1%
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adds up quick, and can reduce your returns by 30% in the long term.
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That's the impact of the compounding effect working against you.
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“Automatic investing may not seem as sexy as trading in hedge funds and biotech stocks,
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but it works a lot better.
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Again, would you rather be sexy or rich?”
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You may be tempted to pick individual stocks.
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After all, what if you had picked Amazon years ago?
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Hindsight is 20/20.
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This is a losing proposition, as chances are you aren't a professional investor, and
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even they get this wrong all the time.
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And if you're tempted to buy some hot stock pushed by the financial pundits, understand
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that they also cannot predict the future and they are wrong all the time.
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In terms of what to invest in, that brings up the question of asset allocation.
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There are two things you need to know:
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First, as Nobel Prize laureate Harry Markowitz famously said, “diversification is the only
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free lunch” in investing.
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Diversification allows you to maintain similar returns while capping your downside risk.
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This is yet another reason broad index funds are better than picking individual stocks.
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Second, when you're younger and have a longer time horizon until you retire, you can afford
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to take on greater risk with your investments.
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Stocks are associated with higher risk but higher returns.
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Bonds, on the other hand, are lower risk but also lower return.
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When you're in your twenties and thirties, going all-stock is fine, but as you get older,