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We tend to think of the hamburger as a quintessentially American invention, the fastest of fast food, and a relatively recent innovation.
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But the idea of grinding up leftover meat and forming it into a handy patty, goes back hundreds of years.
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The Romans were the first to write their version down, in the shape of Isicia Omentata, a mixture of minced pork, wine, pepper and garum - an umami-rich fish sauce, ubiquitous in Roman cuisine.
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Each was wrapped in caul fat - the delicate, tasteless inner lining
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of the thorax of cows, sheep and pigs.
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This was high-end cookery, and it survived the collapse of the Roman Empire, with these proto burgers finding their way into medieval recipe collections under various names.
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and it survived the collapse of the Roman Empire,
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with these proto burgers finding their way
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into medieval recipe collections under various names.
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There were rissoles, patties and pompeys, and they could be flat or round, more like modern meatballs.
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They could also contain anything from fish to meat, and occasionally fruit and vegetables.
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Variations on the theme were also found in the Middle East and beyond, some of which, such as kebobs, were brought back by travellers to join the European repertoire.
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in the Middle East and beyond, some of which, such as kebobs,
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were brought back by travellers to join the European repertoire.
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By around 1700, the fried, flavoured, minced meat concept
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had become established as part of the British culinary repertoire.
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As oval or round balls,
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they were very popular for garnishing large, spectacular dishes
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such as roast meats.
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The Georgians also came up with a thing called the Hamburg Sausage,
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which was based on minced beef,
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and isn't a million miles distant in flavour
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from its eventual successor.
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And they decided to use tomatoes to make catsup –
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later called ketchup –
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another fundamental element of the modern dish.
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By the end of the 19th Century all of the elements were in place,
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but it was in the US that they finally came together.
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By the 1870s American restaurants were serving 'Hamburg steaks',
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named, after the German port
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from where high-quality beef was shipped across the world.
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This version was a dish of fried flattened meatballs though,
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made from offcuts from the more prized, and expensive, actual steaks.
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By now the mincing machine had been invented,
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making it easier than ever before to turn bits of random meat
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into tasty and cheap meals.
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By the 1890s the flat meatballs were being served in bread rolls
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to hungry workers at factory gates across the US,
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with relish an optional addition and pickles on one side.
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The hamburger steak was shortened
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to the simple hamburger,
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and a classic was born.
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Of course, it could have simply stayed as an urban curiosity,
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and died out like other street foods
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such as dried apples and pickled oysters.
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But it was very practical, very easy, and very popular.
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In 1921 the White Castle
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fast food chain was founded,
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marketing their hamburgers
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as pure and hygienically produced –
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something somewhat lacking from the average street version.
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By the 1930s, hamburgers had become simply burgers,
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and White Castle had competition from the first Wimpy, and then McDonald's.
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In 1954 the first Wimpy reached the UK, tucked into a Lyons Corner House,
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injecting some American glamour
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into a Britain just released from rationing.
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They were initially served on a nice plate, with knife and fork.
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Things changed rapidly, however,
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and burgers gained a dual purpose as a cheap, forgettable takeout
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and barbecue fodder.
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In 2013, the UK's horsemeat scandal
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revealed just how much bad burgers relied on cheap offcuts and filler
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to keep the price down, and posh burgers boomed,
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along with the brioche bun, and homemade sauces.
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Worldwide, despite slowly decreasing beef consumption in the West,
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burger consumption is going up,
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and while Australia, the UK and the US lead the pack,
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France and Russia are catching up.
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Le Hamburger, anyone?
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